I have older batteries which come off the charger as full but only read 3.9v on a 2.5...
I think ProVari are smarter than my battery chargers, because they also show 3.9 on a Fluke...
I told you the information needed. But you're right.
I missed the wattage that is 10 watts (4V) and the resistance that is 1.7 ohms.
I bought this batteries together two weeks ago. I don't believe it's possible be batteries fault. Sorry, man.
But i respect your opinion.
No he really didn't... But thats fine.
If I fill my car with gas, get on the highway and drive a 100 mph and then say... Man my gas is going quickly. I think I should contact the carmaker and say... Hey your mpg ratings are wack or my car is broken.
All parameters have to be looked at.
Your assumption is correct.Do you know what your c ratings are for all three batteries. How about state of charge? SOC?
Discharge curves are dependent on the above. Contact battery manufacturer To find out.
My assumption is that Provape is using an algorhytHm to predict remaining battery life puff by puff.
Not rocket science, but a bit beyond arithmatic..
Seriously guys? This is an issue that all mods made of SS suffer and is nothing new. SS oxidizes and it is pretty much invisible. This oxidation isn't very good at conducting electricity. Clean your threads and apply naolox to threads and your issues will vanish. It takes 5 minutes once a month to keep it from being an issue which IMO is a small price to pay for such a durable mod.
Still having same issues... sometimes, I'll put a freshly charged VTC5 in, vape about a quarter tank from my Aerotank, then it would show battery empty. Popped it back on the charger and the charger is reading 4.0v... I bought 2 Efest purple 18500 batteries and it does the same thing... I find myself constantly have to unscrew the bottom cap and rescrew it to get it to work. Getting really frustrated... paid about $250 for this unit because i read so many glowing reviews about it... Thought it would be the only mod i would need but it's proving to be a very frustrating mod to use. My cousin bought some kind of ZNA clone for $60 and it works perfect. Not very happy with my purchase so far....
Straight from the manual... It tells us when to worry about it.
My advice, keep an eye, but don't sweat it.
Jim
The IQTM (Input Quality) monitor provides feedback on the condition of your battery and connections. IQ monitors the battery installed in the device and alerts the user if there is a problem with the battery or the connections along the way. If you have a bad spring, this will cause the IQ value to drop. If you use a poor quality battery, your input quality value will drop. A safe range is anything above 61. If you find your battery is not showing higher than 61, replace the battery with a new high drain battery. These are available on the ProVape website if you do not have a local source for them. The IQ value will vary a little but generally if it’s 61 or above you are ok to use that battery. In addition to a value, the P3 will also tell you if the battery is great, good, ok, poor or bad. These readings are often caused by a weak connection, oxidation build-up where the spring is or a dirty contact pin. If you get a bad reading, try turning the spring a few times. This will remove oxidation build-up and you should get a better reading. This is a very sensitive and accurate reading so little changes can affect the value. Getting a low reading with a new battery does not mean you have a bad device. It just means you might have some adjustments to make on the spring or cleaning your contact pin. This numeric number is from 100 (best) to 0 (worst). If you get a IQ warning the best fix is to remove the bottom cap, wiggle the spring a little, and try reinstalling the bottom cap to see if that improves the IQ value. It's very normal for the IQ to bounce around. This is due to the IQ reading being a real-time monitor of the internal resistance. The IQ value mainly comes into play when you are vaping at above 15 watts. This is when we are most concerned about the quality of the connections to ensure the device is safe to use at the higher power levels.
1) Great (81 to 100 inclusive)
2) Good (72 to 80 inclusive)
3) OK (61 to 71 inclusive)
4) Poor (36 to 60 inclusive) - Power limited to 15 watts when your input quality is poor or bad
5) Bad (0 to 35 inclusive) - Power limited to 15 watts when your input quality is poor or bad