Provari question for those that own it.

[Sicarius]

Just a thought really and something I have wondered about. The ProVari (and other VV devices) work on the principal of PWM and therefore works at a certain frequency. Take that frequency and apply it to various coil diameters, turn spacing, etc and you must surely alter the way the coil ultimately performs. Inductors(coils) pose a high resistance to high frequencies and low resistance to DC components of the voltage. Do we have any Radio Techs that can explain more ?

Like I said - not sure on this, but I have wondered.

 

[smkd13]

Just a thought really and something I have wondered about. The ProVari (and other VV devices) work on the principal of PWM and therefore works at a certain frequency. Take that frequency and apply it to various coil diameters, turn spacing, etc and you must surely alter the way the coil ultimately performs. Inductors(coils) pose a high resistance to high frequencies and low resistance to DC components of the voltage. Do we have any Radio Techs that can explain more ?

Like I said - not sure on this, but I have wondered.

I actually have degree in an electrical related field so this should make sense i hope. Ok so you have to understand the difference between AC and DC interaction with coils. Now you are partly right when talking about frequency and coils but there is a difference that you have to understand. put it this way:

Lets say you have a length of wire. Say 3 ft. now if you tank and measure the resistance of the wire which we will refer to as R1. Whether you run AC or DC through it it will still have the same amount of power produced and it will impede the same amount of current. Impedance will ultimately create heat because of electron flow and the resistance against flow. Thus it gets hot.

Now if we take that same wire and wind it around a rod that is lets say 2mm in diameter. R1 will not change because it is still the same length. here is the difference. Lets say we run DC through this wire. The DC current will run the same path. Think of DC as a point A to point B. It has a straight path and does not have a wave. it appears on an oscilloscope as a straight line. because it is constant the heating effect will me more consolidated as we made the wire into a relatively small "package". The batteries that we use for PV's output DC at a set voltage.

This is more in line with what you were describing. if we take that same coil and pass an AC voltage through it, it will produce a magnetic field because of the constant change in direction of current. when i say change in direction i mean the change in polarity. this is the basis of how radios, electric motors, generators, transformers, etc work. Inductors are only inductors when AC is applied. DC applied to an inductor acts the same as a resistor but is more susceptible to failure because of heating effect which will melt insulation around wires and create shorts.

so now that you know the difference between how AC and DC interact with coils. I can explain the latter part of how they raise the voltage up and down hence adjusting the amount of Power Output that a device will have. This is done by a number of components used to step up the voltage. Mainly it is diode and capacitors. this is complicated but it is using a bridge rectifier circuit and adjustable capacitors. this will effectively raise the voltage and can be user controlled. there are a lot of ways to do this. other ways are by op-amps and voltage regulators (uses transistors). very complicated stuff and it is really hard to explain without pictures and what not but that is the basics.

PV's use DC voltage because it will heat the wire (coils) and produce vapor. and as always remember Ohm's Law

V=R*I
P=V*V/R

 

[rotohammer]

PV's use DC voltage because it will heat the wire (coils) and produce vapor. and as always remember Ohm's Law

Keep in mind we aren't using typical wire here, its high resistance wire, which is meant to heat up under AC or DC, like an incandescent lamp. Also, we are dealing with PWM DC, which may be low frequency, 96Hz on on my Ego-T to over 1kHz on my Vmax. I don't have my LCR meter handy, but my guess is that the inductance on a small air coil isn't playing much of a role in the heating aspects. Looking at my scope readings my Vmax is more or less an ineffecient UVLF FM transmitter

 

[smkd13]

Keep in mind we aren't using typical wire here, its high resistance wire, which is meant to heat up under AC or DC, like an incandescent lamp. Also, we are dealing with PWM DC, which may be low frequency, 96Hz on on my Ego-T to over 1kHz on my Vmax. I don't have my LCR meter handy, but my guess is that the inductance on a small air coil isn't playing much of a role in the heating aspects. Looking at my scope readings my Vmax is more or less an ineffecient UVLF FM transmitter

this is true. anything that has resistance and has a current ran through it will cause heat. higher resistance+more current = more heat. as with the PWM it is kinda like an off on off on. basically the same way a digital circuit. when you put an ego on an scope it shows long on/short off/long on/short off. the higher the frequency the more drops in a period of time. hence more voltage. it is just how it kinda work but with pulse width modulation the way that they use it basically raises the flat line you see on a scope. this is a pain to write out and hard to explain.

inductance of the coilshould not be a determining factor nor will it really play much of a part in operation.

from wikipedia on voltage regulation. this is done by using transistors btw.

PWM is also used in efficient voltage regulators. By switching voltage to the load with the appropriate duty cycle, the output will approximate a voltage at the desired level. The switching noise is usually filtered with an inductor and a capacitor.
One method measures the output voltage. When it is lower than the desired voltage, it turns on the switch. When the output voltage is above the desired voltage, it turns off the switch.

 

[Zurrix]

I guess what makes me wonder is why are the phiniac tanks so great? They average about $50 a tank, they just look thicker and tbh a tank is as good as your cartomizer, right?

I have not had the greatest luck with wicked and/or SK tanks. Its about 50/50 on each. Now I am using cartos with my provari specifically because the flavor is better than with one of the two tanks mentioned in the 1st sentence of this paragraph.

Heck the surge tanks run about 100 bucks...thats more than most PVV's....

The Phiniac tanks are great because you can use any juice in them without the worry of them cracking.

 

[Fiamma]

I'm a Provari user, among a few other devices. I like Smoktech DCT's and unlike some people I do vape dual coils in the tanks and love them. I like a nice warm vape. I also have a number of Phiniac tanks that I treasure. Battery life, as so many other things about vaping, are a trade off I'm willing to make.

None of my tanks have any problems gripping the cartos in them. If you care for your inner o rings properly and use a tank tool when manipulating a carto to insert a new one or drop one down into the tank to refill the tank you just don't have problems. My tanks all require definite pressure to drop the carto in them to refill the tanks. No loosey goosey o rings. Some o rings are reactive to juices. I check my o rings on a regular basis, both inner and outer, and replace them if they show signs of wear or degradation. I generally use silicon o rings as replacements, they are impervious to juice.

For me juices taste different at different voltages up to a stopping point. I have some that are best at 3.7, some that are great at 5.0 and some that blossom in the 4.2 to 4.4 range. All juices are not created equal when you buy them from different vendors. If you make your own juices you can usually predict how they act with your gear. You know what's in the stuff cause you put it there.

You also have to deal with the tank cracking juices, the ones with properties that interact with either the plastic caps or the polycarbonate tanks used in Smoktech DCT's. There is a list of them here in the ECF. If you want to vape those you should go to glass tanks and delrin caps if you can afford them or some of the other variations now on the market that are more resistant to those damages.

If you make juice you can somewhat compensate for the filler in cartos, to get more oomph. IMHO nothing tastes like dripping for flavor. I'm too lazy to drip much so I got myself a Reo Grand last week so I can enjoy the dripping flavor and taste and not have to mess about with the dripping from a bottle etc. If it goes well I may get a VV version when they come back available.

YMMV