Provari Radius acting wonky after 1 year

[peterk1]

So, just for the sake of completeness, new batteries made no difference at all.

I have gotten a few trouble-free tanks and even batteries worth of Radius use in the days since I first posted this, but the wonkiness continues. It's hard to describe, but the thing just seems to be constantly rebooting itself at random. Even when I'm not even touching it, after a good cleaning, and with a fully charged brand new battery installed and a coil/voltage combo that is nowhere near it's rated capacity. It's taken one tumble too many last year, I guess.

The only thing I haven't tried yet is reflashing the firmware and I don't really see what that could possibly do.

I'm pretty sad that it's become so unreliable. I don't even take it with me when I leave the house anymore since I have no idea if/when it will decide to fire. I don't think I will bother repairing it because I'm not too confident that this won't become a yearly occurrence. It's become just another mod that couldn't make it past one year without dying. I have really bad luck with these gadgets. I kill them all really quickly.

 

[Frenchfry1942]

I would try it. Nothing to lose.

 

[Topwater Elvis]

What batteries did you get?
From where?
Have you checked the reddish O ring under the positive pin in the P3 connection?
It must be in place & undamaged or it will cause issues, could cause a short that may trigger reboot.
Are you using the 510 adapter or P3 connection?
Which firmware version are you using?
I prefer V26.
I agree, wouldn't hurt anything to try to update / reflash.

Have you taken the top cap off of the body to see if there is a loose wire or anything obvious?

I doubt anyone is harder on vape equipment than I am, it is rare another brand power device lasts more than 3 weeks of my daily use, unless it is left in the box unused.
My Radius's have survived unbelievable punishment, dropped off roof, broke around 30 tanks off, ran over, submerged, sat in cup holder of big truck, dozer, excavator, farm tractors & vibrated so severely you could hardly see them hour upon hour day after day, covered in grease, diesel, oil, mud, blood & cow poo.

If all attempts fail, yes I'd send it in to be repaired (ProvariRepair@gmail.com) or sell it to someone understanding the functionality problems.

 

[peterk1]

So, what it is looking like is a slightly damaged positive pin. I've been poking around and found someone who had pretty much what I'm having. Turns out that you can damage that thing by using a button top battery and then flat top batteries will have problems connecting later on.

Battery, button or flat top

I almost always have flat top batteries, but I may have been using a button top in my rotation way back when I first got the Radius.

There is a tiny scar on one side of that connection.

One thing I don't like about this design is that it's really hard to get in there to clean that terminal. Yeah, you can reach it with a Q-Tip, but you can't really get much leverage or pressure on your brush strokes...and of course, you can't see what you're doing - unless you take the whole thing apart.

============

Rumor has it that the one repair guy was planning on stopping this February (right now), after all of the outstanding warranties expired, but he's keeping on doing it for the time being.

 

[redeuce]

So, what it is looking like is a slightly damaged positive pin. I've been poking around and found someone who had pretty much what I'm having. Turns out that you can damage that thing by using a button top battery and then flat top batteries will have problems connecting later on.

Battery, button or flat top

I almost always have flat top batteries, but I may have been using a button top in my rotation way back when I first got the Radius.

There is a tiny scar on one side of that connection.

One thing I don't like about this design is that it's really hard to get in there to clean that terminal. Yeah, you can reach it with a Q-Tip, but you can't really get much leverage or pressure on your brush strokes...and of course, you can't see what you're doing - unless you take the whole thing apart.

============

Rumor has it that the one repair guy was planning on stopping this February (right now), after all of the outstanding warranties expired, but he's keeping on doing it for the time being.

He hasn’t done a warranty repair since July.

 

[Frenchfry1942]

Yeah, someone mentioned that he just runs the "spa" for owners that want to pay for it. I suppose he would do repairs if asked.

 

[redeuce]

Yeah, someone mentioned that he just runs the "spa" for owners that want to pay for it. I suppose he would do repairs if asked.

I don’t know what a spa for owners is, but repairs is what he does.

 

[Frenchfry1942]

Send your Provari to be cleaned and refurbished...professionally.

Provape never had a need for a repair "squad". If they are maintained, repairs just really aren't any significant number.

Reosmods did it also. I also got a custom DNA30 mod back in the day. A guy in Vegas, he said he did check-ups. I still have it and it runs fine. Just a part of the deal some have, I think.

 

[peterk1]

What batteries did you get?
From where?
Have you checked the reddish O ring under the positive pin in the P3 connection?
It must be in place & undamaged or it will cause issues, could cause a short that may trigger reboot.
Are you using the 510 adapter or P3 connection?

I'm going to get a star screwdriver in a little while to take the top off and hopefully get a closer look at that scar on the positive terminal.

In the meantime, I'm wondering if you'd be able to tell me if my battery is on the list of recommended cells. I can't find that any more.

I got
Samsung INR18650-30Q s. Pink wrap.

They're basically the batteries I have always used in the Radius.

The red O ring up at the top looks like it's still in great shape.

 

[Topwater Elvis]

The Samsung 30Q is a fine cell for a Radius, as are the LG HG2 & Sony vtc6.
Flat top of course...

Hope you find something easy to remedy your Radius wonkiness.

 

[Baditude]

In the meantime, I'm wondering if you'd be able to tell me if my battery is on the list of recommended cells. I can't find that any more.

I got Samsung INR18650-30Q s. Pink wrap.

The Samsung 30Q is a great battery. It's amp rating is 15 amps CDR, good for up to 45 watts. Unless you are vaping 50 - 60 watts on your Radius, that battery is fine.

Provape recommended the Samsung 25R 20 amp battery for the Radius. It was good for up to 60 watts. Actually, any 20 amp battery from Lg, Samsung, or Sony would do fine for the Radius.

WATTAGE PER SINGLE BATTERY:

20W-45W:

Samsung 18650 30Q, 3000 mah 15/20* amp CDR
Sony 18650VTC6 3000mAh 15/20* amp CDR

* Manufacturer's CDR is 15A. The Samsung 30Q datasheet (Section 7.9) mentions operation at 20A. Operation at that level can be done as long as we don’t let the battery get above 75°C, its maximum rated operating temperature. This holds true for the Sony VTC6 battery as well. These are not a high performance “power” cell, designed for high current. They are a high capacity “energy” cell designed for low to moderate power levels and long running time. At higher current levels the voltage sag and power loss in the cell are huge. Do not exceed 20A. -- Mooch
​

20W-60W:

LG 18650HG2 2000mah 20 amp CDR
LG 18650HE2 2500 mah 20 amp CDR
Samsung 18650-25R, 2500 mah 20 amp CDR
Sony 18650VTC5, 2600 mah 20 amp CDR
Sony 18650VTC4, 2100 mah 23 amp CDR
AW 18650 3000 mah 20 amp CDR​

30W - 75W:

LG 18650 HD4 2100 mah 25 amp CDR
LG 18650 HD2 2000 mah 25 amp CDR
Sony 18650VTC5A, 2500 mah 25 amp CDR​

60W - 90W:

LG18650HB6 1500mah 30 amp CDR
LG18650HB2 1500mAh 30 amp CDR
LG18650HB4 1500mAh 30 amp CDR​

 

[peterk1]

Appreciate that. I've never been above 36W even with 0.4 ohm coils and now that I'm building closer to 1 Ohm I'm down to the mid 20W's. So the battery is out as a factor.

The Samsung 30Q is a great battery. It's amp rating is 15 amps CDR, good for up to 45 watts. Unless you are vaping 50 - 60 watts on your Radius, that battery is fine.

Turns out that taking the top piece off still doesn't give you easy access to the battery compartment. There's some other stuff that has to be detached and without knowing the ins and outs of the device internals the risk of wrecking it is too high....not that it really matters all that much at this point.

It's acting really nice now. Works perfectly while I'm firing, I'm not detecting that it's going to a lower power or anything while the button is pressed down. But about 4-5 seconds after I finish my puff I get a reboot - after every puff. Whatever this thing is doing for monitoring is just too damn aggressive. I wish it would tell me what it is reacting to.

Why don't I just send it in for repairs????

Well, I'm across the border in Canada. So expensive shipping both ways. It's probably going to get dinged by customs on the way back for a 50-60$ tax. They always mess up on repair returns even if it's indicated on the label. Takes a few months to get your money back. Factor in the cost of the repair and you're into 3 digits to fix a device that you won't be able to get replacement parts for in a little while. Doesn't really make sense.

It's still a nice platform for coil building/testing in it's current state.

 

[peterk1]

Good news!

I'm totally surprised by this, but switching to the 2500 mah version of the Samsung battery appears to have eliminated the wonkiness completely! No more reboots!

 

[r77r7r]

Good news!

I'm totally surprised by this, but switching to the 2500 mah version of the Samsung battery appears to have eliminated the wonkiness completely! No more reboots!

Good stuff! Probably over the top happy, right? Have fun.