Provari v2 versus provari v1

[tumbafox]

My prior post regarding the Provari V2 and V1 contained misinformation. This post aims to correct that.

I just got my V1 before the V2 came out. Mechanically the two units are similar but the V2 has been optimized to cover the full range of atomizer and cartomizer resistances.

The V2 is a great advancement in boost circuit design and I highly recommend it to anyone considering a Variable Voltage mod.

This is not a review and I am only expressing my personal opinion based upon the research I have done and the great support provided by the Provape team in explaining the technology to me.

At 2.5 amps the V1 still provides up to 15 watts of power. And power is the bottom line. I rarely go over 8 watts. I have had nothing but trouble with LR.

However, the 3.5 amp circuit protection in the V2 is designed for those who prefer the LR experience yet still it maintains overload protection at close to 15 watts maximum output.

Most people still vape between 3.7 and 4.2 volts anyway because most people do not have VV. That limits the majority of e-cig users to 11.76 watts at 1.5 ohm resistance on a fully charged 4.2 volt conventional mod. And since most mods have no cutoff protection other than maybe a protected battery, they are at greater risk of Cart/Atty burnout and battery overload with Low Resistance.

The Provari should in theory provide an extra cushion of safety for all.

I did not buy the Provari to start at 6 volts and work backwards. I bought it to start at 3.3 volts and work upwards at .1 increments using the least voltage possible until I find the right sweet spot for the particular juice I'm using.

Safety is too often underestimated as the population of e-cig users continues to explode (no pun intended). The Provari is made with safety in mind.

People should also understand that they are vaping LR on a conventional mod at their own peril!

Now with the 3.5 amp cutoff, the Provari 2 can provide more than enough power and protection to satisfy just about everyone.

I am keeping my V1 but also plan to buy the V2 and the upcoming mini when available.

For those who recently bought a V1, I think there is an upgrade option.

 

[evosil98]

I agree, safety should be top priority for users and manufacturers alike. That's why I bought a provari. It has the most comprehensive safety features of any mod so far.

Do you have information about provape making a mini provari?

 

[Striker911]

I never vape above 5 volts with mine and thats just to test how it would vape with a new juice. My normal voltage is 3.7 - 4.5. No worry about buying the old one two weeks ago. Thanks for the info.

 

[washvap]

It's true that there is a need for safety features but, for me and many others. Provape has delivered what we all wanted. Which was a higher amp limit if we wanted something like a 1.5 DCC at 5V. That has silenced much of the critics that say that was one of the limitations of the Provari.

 

[quynhwil]

I just receive my v2 and this thing rocks. Now I can vape with a good piece of mind,knowing that I'm protected and that makes a much bettet vape.

 

[Vidi]

You mentioned an upgrade option. Is this true?

I JUST bought 2 V1's since Xmas ( one for me, one for the wife ) I was disappointed to find all the LR attys I had ( $9 each ) would error out the provari.

 

[AZCraig]

I spend plenty of time at 5.0 to 5.5 volts with my Provari v1 and Boge 3.0 cartos (in tank and out of tank).
One of the things to consider is that with a higher resistance cartomizer / atomizer, you are able to drive things at a higher wattage without the same current draw that a lower resistance would need.

I.e. 5.5 volts into a 3 ohm load yields 10.08 watts with a 1.83 current draw

In order to generate the same heat with a 2ohm atomizer you'd have to drive it at ~4.5 volts to get the 10.08 watts but your current draw would be significantly higher: ~2.25 A

Battery failure / wear / voltage drop over time is tied to the current draw. So driving a 3 ohm load with a 1.83 A current draw will be potentially safer and "nicer" to your battery than the 2 ohm load with a 2.25 A current draw.

 

[DTO]

You mentioned an upgrade option. Is this true?

I JUST bought 2 V1's since Xmas ( one for me, one for the wife ) I was disappointed to find all the LR attys I had ( $9 each ) would error out the provari.

Yes, you can upgrade your V1 Provari's. I sent mine in and have it back already. It's working great. No more error codes with LR attys and dual coil cartomizers!

Read the Q & A link below and use the contact us form to contact Provape-
Contact Us

It's $20 to upgrade a V1 Provari to V2.

 

[vikeme28]

I believe the 20 includes return shipping also

 

[Striker911]

I spend plenty of time at 5.0 to 5.5 volts with my Provari v1 and Boge 3.0 cartos (in tank and out of tank).
One of the things to consider is that with a higher resistance cartomizer / atomizer, you are able to drive things at a higher wattage without the same current draw that a lower resistance would need.

I.e. 5.5 volts into a 3 ohm load yields 10.08 watts with a 1.83 current draw

In order to generate the same heat with a 2ohm atomizer you'd have to drive it at ~4.5 volts to get the 10.08 watts but your current draw would be significantly higher: ~2.25 A

Battery failure / wear / voltage drop over time is tied to the current draw. So driving a 3 ohm load with a 1.83 A current draw will be potentially safer and "nicer" to your battery than the 2 ohm load with a 2.25 A current draw.

Thats what im talkin about. No need to "upgrade" my brand new unit. Thanks for your post.

 

[tumbafox]

yes. you have to email provape and ask David. Depends when you bought the V1. However, unless you are a LR lover, the provari V1 still rocks my world. Also, you CAN vape LR on the Provari V1 up to 4 volts with no error message. Thats still 9 Watts, plenty of power for most.

Ask David for the tech spec pdf file comparing the V2 and V1.

 

[Vidi]

Yes, you can upgrade your V1 Provari's. I sent mine in and have it back already. It's working great. No more error codes with LR attys and dual coil cartomizers!

Read the Q & A link below and use the contact us form to contact Provape-
Contact Us

It's $20 to upgrade a V1 Provari to V2.

Thanks. I contacted them. I had to send my wifes V1 back ( it just stopped working for some reason. ) for repair/replacement and decided to upgrade hers while it was there. I hate to be without my V1 while waiting for it to be upgraded but at $20 bucks the upgrade is too good a deal to pass up.

 

[PaulieD]

Yup for 20.00 including return shipping it's a no brainer.

 

[Krprice84]

I spend plenty of time at 5.0 to 5.5 volts with my Provari v1 and Boge 3.0 cartos (in tank and out of tank).
One of the things to consider is that with a higher resistance cartomizer / atomizer, you are able to drive things at a higher wattage without the same current draw that a lower resistance would need.

I.e. 5.5 volts into a 3 ohm load yields 10.08 watts with a 1.83 current draw

In order to generate the same heat with a 2ohm atomizer you'd have to drive it at ~4.5 volts to get the 10.08 watts but your current draw would be significantly higher: ~2.25 A

Battery failure / wear / voltage drop over time is tied to the current draw. So driving a 3 ohm load with a 1.83 A current draw will be potentially safer and "nicer" to your battery than the 2 ohm load with a 2.25 A current draw.

I don't mean for this to sound rude, but you are completely wrong here. The output current is not in any way tied DIRECTLY to the current that is drawn from the battery. Because of the way the boost circuit works, and the fact that the INPUT voltage (from the battery) is limited to whatever the battery is at the time of vaping. What I am saying is that, regardless of the load or voltage or current, the ONLY thing that will affect the current drawn from the battery (and thus the total wear on the battery and the voltage drop over time, as well as the run time on the battery) is the TOTAL OUTPUT POWER. If you are using a 5.5 volt setting on a 3 ohm load you are getting 10.08 watts using 1.83 amps, but this is the amperage going into the load, NOT the amps drawn from the battery

if you are using a 2 ohm load, you will need to have the voltage set to 4.5 volts and will then end up with 10.125 watts and end up pushing 2.25 amps through the load, but then you have to remember the boost circuit.

since you are stuck at (we will assume) a 3.7 volt battery voltage, to get 10.1 watts out of a 3.7 volt battery you will need 2.73 amps coming out of the battery. this does NOT change if you put a different load on the OUTPUT of the boost circuit and change the voltage, it ONLY changes if the load power changes. It is sort of complicated to someone not well-versed in electronics, but if you look into it, you will see that it is power that must be conserved here and not the current.

Hope that clears things up ... and hope that shows that, in fact, there is a pretty decent reason to get a V2 over a V1

 

[Envithyx]

Post Deleted

 

[AZCraig]

I don't mean for this to sound rude, but you are completely wrong here. The output current is not in any way tied DIRECTLY to the current that is drawn from the battery. Because of the way the boost circuit works, and the fact that the INPUT voltage (from the battery) is limited to whatever the battery is at the time of vaping. What I am saying is that, regardless of the load or voltage or current, the ONLY thing that will affect the current drawn from the battery (and thus the total wear on the battery and the voltage drop over time, as well as the run time on the battery) is the TOTAL OUTPUT POWER. If you are using a 5.5 volt setting on a 3 ohm load you are getting 10.08 watts using 1.83 amps, but this is the amperage going into the load, NOT the amps drawn from the battery

I don't have an Electronic Engineering (E.E.) degree, but I did have 9 months of professional E.E. education about 2 decades ago. IIRC, when we want to run more total power through a load (an atomizer) and our supply voltage is fixed, then the only option we have is to have a booster circuit which draws more current from the battery in order to increase the voltage value in the equation governing power.

Isn't that correct ?

 

[brian5470]

Well I just put a 2 ohm boge on my new mini tested at 1.9 ohms fired at 4.5 volts for about 3 seconds and E1 errors. Whats up with that?