Home Made Pyrex/Ceramic Combo heating coil

[perlion]

Very nice work and ideas Dan. You are truly talented. I was looking at the Pyrex website and thought it may be cool to encapsulate your atty mod into a 9mm tube with all of the 901 periphery. I could use the thermeez to support the atty and use the silica fibers around the atty.
Might make it nice to see the process as it happens.

btw, how did you cut the pyrex? And is the thermeez a putty? Also, which silica rope is that? It looks different from my braided.

 

[Scubabatdan]

Very nice work and ideas Dan. You are truly talented. I was looking at the Pyrex website and thought it may be cool to encapsulate your atty mod into a 9mm tube with all of the 901 periphery. I could use the thermeez to support the atty and use the silica fibers around the atty.
Might make it nice to see the process as it happens.

btw, how did you cut the pyrex? And is the thermeez a putty? Also, which silica rope is that? It looks different from my braided.

I used this cutter to cut the ppyrex tubing:
Glass Tubing Cutter w Replaceable Blade for Pyrex Tubes

Yes the Thermeez is a putty/paste that hardens in 12 hours.
It is the center of the silica braded rope. Did not use much at all, just a "pinch"

Hope this helps
Dan

 

[kai kane]

can't wait to hear (see?) what the atty looks like after vaping!

 

[Scubabatdan]

can't wait to hear (see?) what the atty looks like after vaping!

Actually the pics where after 5-6 hours of vaping, and I had it turned on when the photos were taken. The mesh turns a blackish color over time, but the pyrex tubing shows no discoloration.
Hope this helps
Dan

 

[Scubabatdan]

Yeah... added the MadVapes switch I got in it today, she is now complete.
Dan

 

[Vaporer]

Now thats what I was talkin abt.

 

[kai kane]

s w eeeeet

 

[Ape]

Hi,
I'm following this thread since the begining, and i am really geatefull that you share that discovery.
...and I have a lot of questions for you

Does it still works like the first day?
Are you using a 3,7v battery or more (your resistance looks very hot) ?
Where did you find that ceramic paste?
Do you think a sylicon one would be not enough?
Does it taste better ?

...sorry for that, but it's very interesting

 

[Scubabatdan]

Hi,
I'm following this thread since the begining, and i am really geatefull that you share that discovery.
...and I have a lot of questions for you

Does it still works like the first day?
Are you using a 3,7v battery or more (your resistance looks very hot) ?
Where did you find that ceramic paste?
Do you think a sylicon one would be not enough?
Does it taste better ?

...sorry for that, but it's very interesting

Working just like the first day I made it! Only using a 3,7v battery. The ceramic paste I got from ebay, it is called thermeez, there is a link I posted a couple post back. Problem with silicon and an atty (which I have tested) is the atty burns the silicon.
Tastes better than a carto IMHO!
Dan

 

[nubee]

Heck, that pillbox setup would be nice just to use as a standard fast change atty coil device.

And it rocks as a testing harness - nice!!

 

[HexKrak]

This inspires me. Very cool!

 

[justbrewit]

ok so after reading this thread, losing it while researching a bit more on the forums, thinking my fool head off, here's my thoughts

i like how you sealed the coil up in the pyrex tube, very nice, keeps the coils out of harms way. here's a question though, what would happen if instead of using pyrex glass tubes, you used high temp ceramic tubes like these

Thermal Processing Industries : Ceramic Insulators : Injection Tubes : Lspceramics.com

wouldn't that make your surface area bigger because of the rough nature of the ceramic?
what i've been thinking, since the wicking material is as stated from the website

"Round Braided— Made of 99% silica. Temperature range is -100° to +2300° F"

couldn't you just wrap the whole ceramic sealed tube in this for wicking material and then fill the atty with a bit more of this wicking material and kinda make like a cardo? thats high temp rope, shouldn't burn and the ceramic should be fairly easy on the wear and tear of the wicking material right?

am i off base here? i'm running on no sleep, still trying to fight jet lag big time so i stayed awake last night, vaping my head off with my new BSB and me new DIY flavors and just read posts all night. and thats what i've come up with, let me know your thoughts

this post got my wheels turning big time, thanks so much for posting it, now i get to bore my wife with details she doesn't want to hear about but knows i'm going to talk about it cause talking myself through it seems to help me figure stuff out better lol my poor wife hehehe

 

[Scubabatdan]

ok so after reading this thread, losing it while researching a bit more on the forums, thinking my fool head off, here's my thoughts

i like how you sealed the coil up in the pyrex tube, very nice, keeps the coils out of harms way. here's a question though, what would happen if instead of using pyrex glass tubes, you used high temp ceramic tubes like these

Thermal Processing Industries : Ceramic Insulators : Injection Tubes : Lspceramics.com

wouldn't that make your surface area bigger because of the rough nature of the ceramic?
what i've been thinking, since the wicking material is as stated from the website

"Round Braided— Made of 99% silica. Temperature range is -100° to +2300° F"

couldn't you just wrap the whole ceramic sealed tube in this for wicking material and then fill the atty with a bit more of this wicking material and kinda make like a cardo? thats high temp rope, shouldn't burn and the ceramic should be fairly easy on the wear and tear of the wicking material right?

am i off base here? i'm running on no sleep, still trying to fight jet lag big time so i stayed awake last night, vaping my head off with my new BSB and me new DIY flavors and just read posts all night. and thats what i've come up with, let me know your thoughts

this post got my wheels turning big time, thanks so much for posting it, now i get to bore my wife with details she doesn't want to hear about but knows i'm going to talk about it cause talking myself through it seems to help me figure stuff out better lol my poor wife hehehe

Yes my initial thought was to use ceramic tubing, but hey I had pyrex on hand (why spend more $$) But you did get me thinking of somthing... Why not wrap the nichrome wire around the pyrex/ceramic and then coat it in ceramic paste. Then thread the silica through the tubing?
And yes I have thought about wrapping the atty with silica, but I tried that and it did not produce alot of vapor for some reason. Seems to need a balance between air and wicking material for maximum vapor production.

Let me try somthing
Dan

 

[justbrewit]

nice idea, i like that. let us know how that works out, sounds like it would work great. how much of the pyrex tubing do you have? i hope lots to practice on, i'm thinking about getting some to play with. i have 4 guages of the nichrome wire on the way already and 2ft of the wicking on the way. i have a few blown 510 attys that i'm going to play with.

i also though about maybe using a ceramic rod to wrap the coil around, still knocking a bunch of ideas around in my head. but hey, if more peole chime in with more ideas, who knows where all this will lead!!!! keep up the good work

 

[Scubabatdan]

Well......
I took .5mm ID pyrex and wrapped 34ga nichome around it , and then coated it with ceramic paste. I then threaded silica wick material through the tube and connected it. Dismal at best, the heating element did heat but the vaporization was minimal. Not good at all. On to the next idea.
Oh an I have plenty of pyrex tubing. About 50 6" tubes of each 1mm OD and 2mm OD left.
Dan

 

[justbrewit]

not sure how involved ya want to get with it, could try duel element

did the resistance of the nichome go up after adding the ceramic paste?

 

[Scubabatdan]

not sure how involved ya want to get with it, could try duel element

did the resistance of the nichome go up after adding the ceramic paste?

Nope stayed right at 2.4ohms

As compared to an open exposed coil, the open coil produces WAY more vapor than the ceramic covered one does. Back to the drawing board.
Dan

 

[justbrewit]

my nichome wire is in the mail, i'll be playing right along with ya once mine gets here. still lots of ideas rolling around in my head right now so i'll report back if i figure any thing out lol

 

[Vaporer]

Dan,
Covering the coil with ceramic is what I have described in other threads before as "dead thermal mass". It will vaporize liquid, but more energy & time is required to get the ceramic material up to temperature. If it were to run continuous, once up to temp, it could have the coil pulsed to keep it there.
We face pretty much the opposite. We need to get the contact surface up to temp fast, storing as little as possible, so its not cooking when we let the draw off.

Your pyrex tube atty will be using more current to get the surface up to temp, but its a thin wall(close to the inner wall) and it's being used on a larger non penstyle battery. If the longevity of the coil increases it can be a good trade off. Any carbon buildup on the glass surface may be easily scraped away leaving the coil undamaged.

The one idea that was posted abt putting the coil in a light bulb leaves to much dead air space to the glass, or dead thermal mass, to heat in getting the outside glass surface to vaporizing temperature. Not impossible, but not very efficient.

 

[HexKrak]

I think part of the issue with the ceramic covered coil is that the nichrome wire is going to produce initially and primarily infrared heat, once you cover it in ceramic you've changed the way the heat is radiated to the liquid.

Some reading on Heat transfer might save some trial and error. I'll be looking at it for ideas too!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_transfer