Question about 28g Kanthal wire and the Natural Mech mod

[Platelock]

Hey guys..

So I am waiting on vapemail and I am getting the RSST rba, Natural Mech mod, 28 gauge Kanthal wire and 400 SS Mesh.. This is my first venture into rebuildables.. Did I order what I should have? I have been reading that people use 28 gauge and 30 gauge. I know I am going to get a lower ohm with the 28 gauge but will I be okay? I will be using a AMR 18350 battery because I love the smaller form factor.

How many wraps should I use? What ohm should I expect? Do I have any chances of ruining the battery?

I have been doing a lot of research but am looking for some real time feedback before I jump in..


thanks!

 

[pdib]

all good. 5 wraps=.8-.9Ω IMR 18350 will be safe, but short lived (have to charge frequently). Practically speaking anywhere from 4 to 6 wraps for performance window. See what suits you.

edit: technically, you would be pushing the 18350 battery with less than 4 wraps (less than .7Ω), but its not a big safety issue even then. Maybe only if it fires continuously by accident.

 

[Satava]

I would consider picking up some #500SS as well. I'm not sure if a lot of people would agree with me but I've found the 500 to wick better.

 

[pdib]

▲yep. 500▲ unless you're heavy on VG. I like 50/50, and that's good with 500. (but 400 will do just fine)





edit: well, actually, all I use for wicking anymore is the Nextel ceramic rope (xc-116); but that's another topic.

 

[Satava]

I wish I had a forge or kiln to treat the stuff, I'd probably give it a go lol. I'm gonna end up on some 7x7 rope soon just to make my mesh last longer. I'm such a cheap ........

 

[Platelock]

Thanks for the responses! I am actually starting to prefer more of a VG heavy juice.

I can't put down Bobas Bounty and Gorilla and its 100 VG.

On that note though is the 400 mesh okay for a 70/30 mix?

 

[pdib]

I'm no VG expert; but, from what I've gathered, people start to move toward coarser mesh when they get heavy on the VG. (some do, some don't). So, if anything, 400 might be better than 500. Some folks go to 325.

 

[pdib]

I wish I had a forge or kiln to treat the stuff, I'd probably give it a go lol. I'm gonna end up on some 7x7 rope soon just to make my mesh last longer. I'm such a cheap ........

I just buy the pre-treated, Satava. Apparently, some serious ventilation is required for proper and safe heat-treating. The ss rope is cool, I'm just favoring this other direction for me.

 

[fud4ever]

hey platelock, im basically in the same situation as you. Ive just ordered an rsst, 28 kanthal and 500 mesh. Already have a smoktech telescope somewhere. And i use high vg as well, usually 80/20 or bobas. =D

 

[pdib]

I'm sure y'all have heard of slightly diluting your VG w/ distilled water, if wicking becomes an issue.

 

[Hello World]

Hey guys..

So I am waiting on vapemail and I am getting the RSST RBA, Natural Mech Mod, 28 gauge Kanthal wire and 400 SS Mesh.. This is my first venture into rebuildables.. Did I order what I should have? I have been reading that people use 28 gauge and 30 gauge. I know I am going to get a lower ohm with the 28 gauge but will I be okay? I will be using a AMR 18350 battery because I love the smaller form factor.

How many wraps should I use? What ohm should I expect? Do I have any chances of ruining the battery?

Bullseye ... you're all good. A most excellent arrangement.

If you will be making a solid wick to fit the 3.4mm RSST hole, count on approx. .2 ohms per winding with 28ga Kanthal. So a 5/6 wrap should come out to about 1.1 to 1.3 ohms. IMR 18350 is good, but won't last more than an hour or two, so expect to go through at least 5 - 6 of them a day.

 

[Rule62]

A couple words about the mod. The Natural is a nice mech mod, for the money, because it has no springs in the current path, which will increase resistance, thereby reducing efficiency. Even some of the high end mechanicals use springs as conductors. The natural doesn't. However, you can still improve it a bit by taking it apart, and sanding the chrome plating off all of the contact points; ie: positive and negative screws, bottom post, switch post. These parts are all chrome plated brass. The chrome sands off very easily in a couple minutes. If you do this, you will just have to remember to clean off your brass contacts every once in a while.

 

[DJ RyckRak]

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...moktech-natural-new-mechanical-device-20.html

The Natural is a fantastic mod.
Fully mechanical...
Inexpensive...
Stainless...
Nice fit and finish...
Obtainable by mere mortals...

With a ST octopus RDA on top, you have a VaporCloud making machine !!!
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...systems/393635-magic-rda-only-10-dollars.html

 

[Platelock]

You guys have been awesome! Thanks for the responses.

A couple more questions and I'll leave y'all alone.

On my 18350 batteries I noticed that after they are fully charged they read 4.1-4.3 Volts of life. When I first build my wick and coil I am going to do the pulse method to check for hot spots etc. I read that I need to have a battery down about half to 3.6 or 3.7 volts.

Is this true? Also once I have the wick and coil set up can I then use a freshly charged battery in it at the 4.1 to 4.3 charge?

Thanks again!

 

[troye32993]

Can anyone give me an idea of how to remove the negative contact on the natural? Ive tried pushing it out and unscrewing but neither have worked.

 

[pdib]

You guys have been awesome! Thanks for the responses.

A couple more questions and I'll leave y'all alone.

On my 18350 batteries I noticed that after they are fully charged they read 4.1-4.3 Volts of life. When I first build my wick and coil I am going to do the pulse method to check for hot spots etc. I read that I need to have a battery down about half to 3.6 or 3.7 volts.

Is this true? Also once I have the wick and coil set up can I then use a freshly charged battery in it at the 4.1 to 4.3 charge?

Thanks again!

Last part, yes. First part; not critical, with 28g your not going to pop your wire (burn through it while pusling out a short) like you would with 32. Keep the pulses real short at first. Whatever lights up in the first second is what needs adjusting. (after about a second, more of the coil begins to glow and its harder to tell where the issue is, so watch close and pulse short)

 

[pdib]

Can anyone give me an idea of how to remove the negative contact on the natural? Ive tried pushing it out and unscrewing but neither have worked.

That whole white plastic disc is screwed in from above. remove all additional tubes, poke a skinny object in one of the holes (perforating the white plastic disc) and spin it up. It may take a bit of pressure to get it turning, but then it should spin up easily, be nice to those plastic threads.

Oh, and then its just the skinny post is screwed into the fatter (top) section. There's a washer and spring between them. Pay attention to which goes where as you disassemble.

 

[Jeremy Evans]

I just buy the pre-treated, Satava. Apparently, some serious ventilation is required for proper and safe heat-treating. The ss rope is cool, I'm just favoring this other direction for me.

where from?

 

[pdib]

where from?

. . . . . . . . . . . . XC-116 Ceramic Wick Kiln Treated – Big Tex Vapor

. . . . . . . . . . XC-116 Ceramic Wick - 12" Heat Cleaned

 

[xEtherized]

hey platelock, im basically in the same situation as you. Ive just ordered an rsst, 28 kanthal and 500 mesh. Already have a smoktech telescope somewhere. And i use high vg as well, usually 80/20 or bobas. =D

Hey guys..

So I am waiting on vapemail and I am getting the RSST RBA, Natural Mech Mod, 28 gauge Kanthal wire and 400 SS Mesh.. This is my first venture into rebuildables.. Did I order what I should have? I have been reading that people use 28 gauge and 30 gauge. I know I am going to get a lower ohm with the 28 gauge but will I be okay? I will be using a AMR 18350 battery because I love the smaller form factor.

How many wraps should I use? What ohm should I expect? Do I have any chances of ruining the battery?

I have been doing a lot of research but am looking for some real time feedback before I jump in..


thanks!

Where did you guys get your 28g Kanthal Wire from?

A couple words about the mod. The Natural is a nice mech mod, for the money, because it has no springs in the current path, which will increase resistance, thereby reducing efficiency. Even some of the high end mechanicals use springs as conductors. The natural doesn't. However, you can still improve it a bit by taking it apart, and sanding the chrome plating off all of the contact points; ie: positive and negative screws, bottom post, switch post. These parts are all chrome plated brass. The chrome sands off very easily in a couple minutes. If you do this, you will just have to remember to clean off your brass contacts every once in a while.

What you said is interesting. I have a K100 with a IGO-L build, is there anyway to improve this build?