Question about batteries and the Reo Grand.

[danibanani]

Hello, all.

I am receiving a Reo Grand, (not the LP version) and I ordered the following batteries that was suggested on this forum as I was looking for older posts:


These are the following batteries at home that I use for my Silver Bullet when I switch from the clearomizer and dripping with my rda:



Which of the batteries that I have now would be the safest to use on the Grand that I am receiving. I have been reading baditude's blog, but I am still unsure. I am really, really new to this and it's a little over my head.

Thank you for any help you can give me.

Take care,
Dani

ETA: I saw the picture of the black battery was a little blurred. It says 18650 3100 mAh 3.7V Li-Ion.

 

[Raynman]

Who sold you on those? It should have been the 2200mah or the 1600 mah. As far as the AW's go.

 

[supertrunker]

The 2000mAh AW's will be fine. It's unlikely you will be wrapping cloud chasing coils on a Cyclone just yet.

You want 'unprotected high drain IMR' batteries. I realise this sounds counter-intuitive and 'protected' would be better right? Nope.
IMR is a specific chemistry of battery which makes it a lot safer, such that you do not need a dedicated protection circuit built into the battery. Protected batteries are no longer recommended for mechanical mods.

AW 1600mAh are the recommended batteries, because they have the highest output rating.

T

 

[Myah_June2014]

I've used flat top batteries so when I got the AW I seemed to thumb mash lol. I dunno, the blue Samsung seem to last longer then the AW 2200 mah & are cheaper. Some ppl will use nothing but AW. What ohm coils do you use?

 

[JetMac]

With what you had described in the other post about the loaner Reo, you will be running a 1.2ohm single coil. The red battery (LG HE2) will handle the coil just fine. I'm not exactly sure what the other battery is, I can't see what brand it is so I'm unable to look up the specs. Either way, both batteries will work but just don't discharge them down past 3.6V. If you have multimeter, just pull the battery after a few hours and check the voltage on it and once it's down to 3.6v its time to charge. You will be able to tell the battery is weak when you notice a drop in performance (colder vape, less vapor, takes longer to heat up, etc.)


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[danibanani]

The 2000mAh AW's will be fine. It's unlikely you will be wrapping cloud chasing coils on a Cyclone just yet.

You want 'unprotected high drain IMR' batteries. I realise this sounds counter-intuitive and 'protected' would be better right? Nope.
IMR is a specific chemistry of battery which makes it a lot safer, such that you do not need a dedicated protection circuit built into the battery. Protected batteries are no longer recommended for mechanical mods.

AW 1600mAh are the recommended batteries, because they have the highest output rating.

T

Thanks, T. I know I saw them somewhere around here, but I can't recall where. No, I'm not going to be doing any cloud chasing or sub-ohming. I'm good at a 1.2ohm. I know that probably sounds prissy and boring, but it's just where I feel the safest at right now. As I go on, I will probably want to go more advanced, but since this Reo is a gift (loaner=gift), I want to be extra gentle with it.

Thank you for your input.

Take care,
Dani

 

[Roscoe01]

The red battery in the bottom pic appears to be a LG HE2. That battery will suit the grand well. Has a 20 amp limit and I get really good run times out of mine.

 

[danibanani]

With what you had described in the other post about the loaner Reo, you will be running a 1.2ohm single coil. The red battery (LG HE2) will handle the coil just fine. I'm not exactly sure what the other battery is, I can't see what brand it is so I'm unable to look up the specs. Either way, both batteries will work but just don't discharge them down past 3.6V. If you have multimeter, just pull the battery after a few hours and check the voltage on it and once it's down to 3.6v its time to charge. You will be able to tell the battery is weak when you notice a drop in performance (colder vape, less vapor, takes longer to heat up, etc.)

You have a super-great memory! Thank you for telling me which is battery is best to use until my new ones come. The other brand is an Efest. I don't have a multimeter, is this something I must have with a Reo?

Thanks,
Dani

 

[supertrunker]

By the way - it's unlikely your silver bullet batteries will play nice - the ones i first used in a Reo did have a protection circuit in them (i wasn't a cloud-chaser then) and it added to the height of the battery.

I mangled them in there anyhow and wrecked the firing pin (one of many ) and had to send it back for repair. It also meant that my safety spring was crushed to death and would not have worked the way it was designed.

Nobody was born knowing this stuff, so perhaps you can learn from mistakes, some of them costly, that a few of us made!

T

 

[Soignee]

Hello, all.

I am receiving a Reo Grand, (not the LP version) and I ordered the following batteries that was suggested on this forum as I was looking for older posts:
View attachment 392881

These are the following batteries at home that I use for my Silver Bullet when I switch from the clearomizer and dripping with my RDA:

View attachment 392880

Which of the batteries that I have now would be the safest to use on the Grand that I am receiving. I have been reading baditude's blog, but I am still unsure. I am really, really new to this and it's a little over my head.

Thank you for any help you can give me.

Take care,
Dani

ETA: I saw the picture of the black battery was a little blurred. It says 18650 3100 mAh 3.7V Li-Ion.

Hi Dani, I'm not sure what the name of the black battery is (it would help if you could give a name), but the other one is an 18650 LG HE2 18650 2500mAh High Drain Hybrid IMR Battery - Flat top. They have a 20 amp rating.


Ideally you should use the recommended AW button top batteries in your Grand to avoid pitting from possible arcing that can occur with flat tops. RTD vapor is an authorized vendor for AW's and there are several others as well (sorry I don't have their names). I recently purchased the 'new' 2200 mah 18650's for my Grand.

Having said that, you can use your LG's in your Grand. Please be sure to build within the batteries continuous amp limit. If you are not using the Steam engine website Battery drain | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators yet, please so. It's a great resource to use for both coil wrapping and to find out your batteries headroom limit among other things.

For example: If you build a .5 ohm coil and use your AW battery above, it is not very safe. You only have about 16% headroom limit. But if you build a 1.4 ohm coil and use the same battery you have about a 70% headroom limit, pretty darn safe.

I would continue to encourage you to read Baditude's blogs, understand Ohm's Law and research battery safety until you are confident enough to begin using a mechanical device.

And check out SuperX's thread! http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/627171-ohms-law-battery-safety-made-simple.html

 

[JetMac]

To start out Id say yes just so you don't accidentally over discharge the battery. Set it to volts to check the battery and when you rebuild the coil set it to ohms and check the coil on the atomizer before you fire it. It comes in handy, I still use mine when I build with different gauge wires and increase or decrease the amount of wraps just so I'll know where I'm at and if I've met my target ohms resistance.

Some people (I do this) sorta develop this routine where they change out batteries when refilling or swapping a bottle. For me, I can easily vape a six ml bottle down in about 7 to 10 hrs. If I'm constantly hit it repeatedly I'll change the battery in about 4 to 5 hrs. If not I'll change the battery when I switch bottles at the end of the day. I've gotten use to how my coils burn on a fresh battery and it's easy for me to tell when the battery goes weak and it's time to change.


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[JetMac]

For now use the LG battery, try not to use the Efest. And when are the AWs due to arrive?


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[danibanani]

To start out Id say yes just so you don't accidentally over discharge the battery. Set it to volts to check the battery and when you rebuild the coil set it to ohms and check the coil on the atomizer before you fire it. It comes in handy, I still use mine when I build with different gauge wires and increase or decrease the amount of wraps just so I'll know where I'm at and if I've met my target ohms resistance.

Some people (I do this) sorta develop this routine where they change out batteries when refilling or swapping a bottle. For me, I can easily vape a six ml bottle down in about 7 to 10 hrs. If I'm constantly hit it repeatedly I'll change the battery in about 4 to 5 hrs. If not I'll change the battery when I switch bottles at the end of the day. I've gotten use to how my coils burn on a fresh battery and it's easy for me to tell when the battery goes weak and it's time to change.

Great. I will put those on my list of must-haves. Thanks so much for your input.

 

[danibanani]

For now use the LG battery, try not to use the Efest. And when are the AWs due to arrive?

I just used looked it up using the tracking number and its in PA right now, going first-class. I live in Ohio. I should have them by Monday (hopefully) or Tuesday.

 

[caup]

I have some AW 2000 batteries here, which I used with the 306 atomizers for 3 years now.
They are still running strong, so they are some quality batteries imho.

Stay above .7 ohm (or better: not below 1 ohm), and they'll be just fine.
For this kind of resistance, they perform quite well (and last longer than AW 1600).

 

[JetMac]

Some people use one of these voltage meters that attach on the 510 and it will display the battery voltage.

People also use an ohm meter to check the ohms after the coil build.

I don't use either of these, I just use a simple multimeter. It does what both of those other devices do and it's cheaper in cost. You can find cheap digital multimeters at Walmart, harbor frieght, lowes, Home Depot, any other place like that. Cheaper multimeters aren't as accurate as the more expensive ones. I got mine from harbor freight, paid like $12 for it and the only thing I have to do when checking ohms on a coil is hold the leads together to see what the resistance of the leads are (mine are .5 when touched together) then when checking my coil it usually reads out at .7 ohms, so I'll just subtract .5 for my leads resistance and my coil is .2 ohms. The more expensive meters basically have better wires with less resistance and the meters have more features.

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[X-Puppy]

I recognize the the black battery on the right as an Efest. It were me I would avoid using it in a mechanical mod (even if it's rated for 20 amp). Efest's have been advertised with exaggerated AMP ratings so I don't trust their quality (I'm pretty sure I'm not alone that one).

Trunker is right on as usual in that the AW 2,000Mah will do just fine as long as your not running sub-ohm coil's.

AW is a trusted brand and you can't go wrong with. Their new 20AMP batteries are awesome and getting good reviews(by us here on the forum). Personally, for the REO with coils above .5ohm I like the Samsung 2500mah button top (light blue). They are a high quality 20AMP that last and pack a good punch all the way through the vapeable voltage range.

 

[Rule62]

I don't know where you ordered your AW batteries; or if that is an actual picture, from the site you ordered from. But if so, those batteries are at least a year old. Since December 2013, the black AW label, with the silver 'AW' letters, has been replaced with a silver holographic label, with 'AW' in black.

 

[supertrunker]

I gave all my Efests to HRH, not because i'd like them to detonate but because she runs coils that are 1.2 - 1.5Ω and never subOhms. When those eventually got worn out, she stole some of my other batteries.

I only run flat-top batteries in my Reos and only 30A ones at that, but that has to do with 2 things: the bigger the Amps the higher your margin of safety; i do things to my Reos that are not recommended by the maker of them and so i will not recommend others do the same.

There is a lot to learn with any device without me muddying the waters - so i limit my advice to the following:

Use the best batteries and chargers you can afford. A battery has a lifespan of between 300 and 500 charge and discharge cycles, so the cost of the recommended stuff divided by 300 and the cost of cheap divided by 300 is miniscule!

Always test your coils on a meter of your choosing before you use them, with the cap of the atty on and a driptip installed - never fire them without doing this on your mod.

If your mod gets hot - quickly give it to someone you dislike!

T

 

[danibanani]

I don't know where you ordered your AW batteries; or if that is an actual picture, from the site you ordered from. But if so, those batteries are at least a year old. Since December 2013, the black AW label, with the silver 'AW' letters, has been replaced with a silver holographic label, with 'AW' in black.

That was an image I googled. This is exactly what I ordered from RTD vapor: "G.1.C-1rtd-aw-18650-2 AW IMR 18650 3.7v 2000mAh " I tried to look them back on their website, and I cannot find them.

Thanks,
Dani