One more point to remember. When you buy wire already wrapped into a coil ready to mount, realize the resistance on the package isn't always precise. Most are machine made and variation is the norm. It should be around the resistance, so for a 1 ohm coil you bought, 0.9-1.1 ohm is pretty much the rule.
The resistance measured on the Kroma is accurate enough for vaping. In fact boards/mods that do things like temp control well are accurate, or at least reproducible into the hundredths of an ohm. I would trust something like a Kroma to a 0.05 ohm reproducible reading.
Of you're getting jumping resistance you need to check your connections, both the screws tightened down on the coil, and a clean 510 connector both on the tank and the mod. Some metals change resistance as they heat to a noticeable degree. If you're using say SS that's the way it's supposed to behave. Not so much Kanthal or Ni80.
Don't worry about "subohm". That gets thrown around when building and vaping with higher wattage, lots of airflow, and a lot of cloudy vapor to exhale. There is nothing magic between 0.9-1.1 ohm. If you're running it at a lower wattage and reduced airflow that's a mtl type vape regardless.
Don't get caught up in watching the voltage, or even worse the amps displayed on a regulated mod like the Kroma. Set the wattage to give you the vape you want and that's the only number that applies. As to Ohms law, it's good to know, and a must if one day you ever use a mech mod (unregulated power from the battery, it's up to the battery voltage and the resistance of your coil that determines the power, no circuit to adjust it), but it doesn't apply to vaping under regulated conditions, so no sense getting crazy trying to match up the voltage displayed on the mod and the resistance of the build. It'll come out wrong and be more confusing than helpful.
Bottom line, if it's giving you a nice vape and you're not smoking, all is working perfectly.
