Question on building coils.

[CShaver]

So I ordered some 28g Kanthal, and will be picking up some cotton to rebuild the coils in my Protank Mini 2s and Hypertank.

The question I have is how do I figure out how many wraps will give me what ohms?

I know a 12-wrap microcoil of 28g will give a 1.8 ohm coil, but I only know that from the videos I watched about making a microcoil for the Protank mini 2s. I'm just not sure how to figure it out myself. The coils I usually use are 2.5 ohm stock kanger coils. I've been getting some dry hits and I'm pretty sure the cotton builds will eliminate those. I just don't know how a 1.8 ohm coil will work for me. In one of the videos I watched (Rip Trippers), he vaped the 1.8 ohm microcoil at 15 watts with no burnt taste and no dry hits. I'm assuming it will work well for me since I vape 4v in voltage and 9w in wattage mode.

Is this microcoil good to start out on or am I being too ambitious for my first build?

 

[Btsmokincat]

IMO 28 gauge is a little big to use in a Kanger coil. I made one 10 wraps around a 1.4mm micro screwdriver and it came out to 1.4 ohms. I use 32 gauge, 7 wraps around 1.4mm and it comes out to 2.3 ohms...


You definitely need a way to check ohms before you fire it if you don't have one! I use my MVP2.

Also if you have an android device go to Google Play and download "Vaper's Toolbox"! It's an app made by a member here (ScottP) and it will take the guess work out of how many wraps you need to get your desired Ohms! (oh and it's free!)

 

[Ohms Lawbreaker]

Testing a fully built coil with a meter is more accurate and safer than having to depend on any formula with length and wraps because there are always a few variables that simply demand the precision of a meter. Having rebuilt Kanger heads for six months now, I still always give them a check before plugging them into a tank to vape. Meters for this are cheap, like ten bucks, or for a little more you can even get something like the iTaste V3 which has a good built-in ohm meter and is also a cool VV/VW battery.

 

[STiZzle2010]

I use 32GA and with 5 wraps around a 1/16th drill bit, I get 2.0 ohms.

 

[StarsAndBars]

What device are you using dude? Really it will depend on the diameter of the coils. It's really impossible to say 'x' amount of wraps will give you 'x' ohms. As said, it will take quite a few wraps of 28 gauge to get you to 1.8 ohms. Also, 28 gauge doesn't like to be above 1.3 ohms. It will take forever to heat up.

My advice is to order plenty of 30 gauge if 1.8 ohms is your goal. Sad to say but trial and error, then checking the ohm of each build is the best method. After you've done it a few times, you will be able to estimate the resistance of your builds as long as you wrap your coils to the same diameter every time. Hope this helps.

Since I don't know which device you're using, be sure the battery can take the amp limit of your build. Voltage divided by ohms=amps

 

[CShaver]

IMO 28 gauge is a little big to use in a Kanger coil. I made one 10 wraps around a 1.4mm micro screwdriver and it came out to 1.4 ohms. I use 32 gauge, 7 wraps around 1.4mm and it comes out to 2.3 ohms...
View attachment 298987

You definitely need a way to check ohms before you fire it if you don't have one! I use my MVP2.

Also if you have an android device go to Google Play and download "Vaper's Toolbox"! It's an app made by a member here (ScottP) and it will take the guess work out of how many wraps you need to get your desired Ohms! (oh and it's free!)

I'm using my Vamo V5 to read the ohms. It's pretty accurate, with reading the same no matter how many times I measure it or take it off and put it back on.

I have a Galaxy S4 so I will gladly grab that app and check it out. Thank you!

Testing a fully built coil with a meter is more accurate and safer than having to depend on any formula with length and wraps because there are always a few variables that simply demand the precision of a meter. Having rebuilt Kanger heads for six months now, I still always give them a check before plugging them into a tank to vape. Meters for this are cheap, like ten bucks, or for a little more you can even get something like the iTaste V3 which has a good built-in ohm meter and is also a cool VV/VW battery.

I plan on getting a meter eventually, but for now I'm using my Vamo V5 to measure the ohms.

I use 32GA and with 5 wraps around a 1/16th drill bit, I get 2.0 ohms.

With 12 wraps of 28g on a 5/64 bit, the microcoil registers 1.8 ohms. I would prefer a higher ohm, but 1.8 will still work on my Vamo.

What device are you using dude? Really it will depend on the diameter of the coils. It's really impossible to say 'x' amount of wraps will give you 'x' ohms. As said, it will take quite a few wraps of 28 gauge to get you to 1.8 ohms. Also, 28 gauge doesn't like to be above 1.3 ohms. It will take forever to heat up.

My advice is to order plenty of 30 gauge if 1.8 ohms is your goal. Sad to say but trial and error, then checking the ohm of each build is the best method. After you've done it a few times, you will be able to estimate the resistance of your builds as long as you wrap your coils to the same diameter every time. Hope this helps.

Since I don't know which device you're using, be sure the battery can take the amp limit of your build.

I'm using a Vamo V5. From what I've seen (Which I have no idea if it's even right since I know nothing about building coils), 12 wraps will be 1.8ohms and in the video, it worked fine.

The batteries I'm using are all Panasonic. I have one 3100mAh NCR18650A and 2 2900mAh NCR18650PF. I know everyone says IMR is the way to go, but these are what I ended up ordering. They last me all day and I love that I don't need to carry a spare battery. The biggest IMR I could find (since everyone swears by AW) is 2000mAh. I don't want to have to carry an extra battery in my pocket.

 

[StarsAndBars]

Never had a Vamo. Does it have an amp cut off limit? I would imagine so, but always a good practice to stay within the amp limit off the battery regardless. The auto cutoff can fail. 1.8 ohms would be pretty safe for just about any battery. I guess I only brought it up in case you get into lower ohm coils.

Enough about that. I guess give it a go, but in my experience, 28 gauge takes a while to heat up if the build is above 1.3 ohms. I tried to love 28 gauge for a long time because everyone raves about it. Even at five volts, my 1.5 ohm builds would take a full extra second or two to really heat up. I got frustrated and asked about it in a thread. Someone schooled me up that it's just the nature of the beast with 28 gauge. I started making lower ohm 28 gauge builds on one of my mechs and I can't explain it, but they were right. Anyway, hope it works out for you man.

 

[CShaver]

Never had a Vamo. Does it have an amp cut off limit? I would imagine so, but always a good practice to stay within the amp limit off the battery regardless. The auto cutoff can fail. 1.8 ohms would be pretty safe for just about any battery. I guess I only brought it up in case you get into lower ohm coils.

Enough about that. I guess give it a go, but in my experience, 28 gauge takes a while to heat up if the build is above 1.3 ohms. I tried to love 28 gauge for a long time because everyone raves about it. Even at five volts, my 1.5 ohm builds would take a full extra second or two to really heat up. I got frustrated and asked about it in a thread. Someone schooled me up that it's just the nature of the beast with 28 gauge. I started making lower ohm 28 gauge builds on one of my mechs and I can't explain it, but they were right. Anyway, hope it works out for you man.

I'm 99% sure the cutoff is 5 amps. I'm not 100% though. I do know it won't fire anything under 1.2ohms, which is fine by me since I don't plan on getting into sub-ohm.

As for the guage, you know a million times more than me lmao. I don't mind waiting a second or two before being able to pull, so it might still work for me lol. In all honesty, I really wanted to avoid building coils completely since I just like the ease of grabbing a new coil and popping it in. It's just getting annoyingly expensive to keep buying replacement coils from Kanger. I figure the more I save, the more I can spend on juice. So here I am becoming a coil builder lmao.

Side bar - I ordered the Kanthal from Amazon about an hour and a half ago. It's already shipped o.0 so I'll be able to try it out soon enough lol

 

[Mark Anthony]

IMO 28 gauge is a little big to use in a Kanger coil. I made one 10 wraps around a 1.4mm micro screwdriver and it came out to 1.4 ohms. I use 32 gauge, 7 wraps around 1.4mm and it comes out to 2.3 ohms...
View attachment 298987

You definitely need a way to check ohms before you fire it if you don't have one! I use my MVP2.

Also if you have an android device go to Google Play and download "Vaper's Toolbox"! It's an app made by a member here (ScottP) and it will take the guess work out of how many wraps you need to get your desired Ohms! (oh and it's free!)

This exactly.... You will want a higher gauge kanthal to make around 2.5 ohms so you won't need so many wraps.

 

[Stosh]

I have one 3100mAh NCR18650A and 2 2900mAh NCR18650PF

The NCR18650PF are Hybrid, rather than IMR and are high drain 10 amp limit, you're good to go with them...

Now regarding your coils...I would recommend you try some simple regular coils, tightly wound around drill bit, toothpick, screwdriver shank, different diameters, see what resistances you get. It's good practice, and your coils should look just a bit prettier with each try.... Once you find the diameter that you like the best, and the coils are tight and even....then it's an easy next step to making it into a micro-coil.

My first trys at micro-coils were disasters, the coil just wasn't even enough, tight enough, pretty enough to squeeze together properly. A little practice and it was a snap, and the resistance came out what I expected......

 

[CShaver]

The NCR18650PF are Hybrid, rather than IMR and are high drain 10 amp limit, you're good to go with them...

Now regarding your coils...I would recommend you try some simple regular coils, tightly wound around drill bit, toothpick, screwdriver shank, different diameters, see what resistances you get. It's good practice, and your coils should look just a bit prettier with each try.... Once you find the diameter that you like the best, and the coils are tight and even....then it's an easy next step to making it into a micro-coil.

My first trys at micro-coils were disasters, the coil just wasn't even enough, tight enough, pretty enough to squeeze together properly. A little practice and it was a snap, and the resistance came out what I expected......

That's definitely good to know about the batteries. I had done some research on them, but not anything in-depth.

I have a feeling I'm going to destroy this entire 100 feet of Kanthal before I get a working coil. It just happens to be my luck lol.

I do have one question though. Is it necessary to torch the coils or is that step optional? I ask because I don't have a torch and don't want to spend 30-40$ on one lol

 

[Stosh]

100 foot coil should be good for at least 5-6 working coils.... j/k They'll each get progressively better with each try.

Torching, heating with gas stove (my favorite) or some sort of flame is recommended to take some of the spring out of the wire, makes it easier to wrap.

 

[Ryedan]

I do have one question though. Is it necessary to torch the coils or is that step optional? I ask because I don't have a torch and don't want to spend 30-40$ on one lol

You can use a Bic (or any other) lighter on wire. It will become red hot quite quickly.

Have fun!

 

[Huckleberried]

I've used 32g kanthal on a 5/64 drill bit at about 7 wraps and got a 2.2 Right now I'm using 30g on a 4-40 machine screw and 7 wraps is giving me about 1.9. I'd prefer a 2.2, so might try 8. I'm using an ohm meter, then it shows the same on my MVP.

I use a bic. My boyfriend torched one and the coil popped the next day. No more torch for me with 30g.

 

[StarsAndBars]

Torching shouldn't be needed with 28 gauge. Its pretty dang easy to work with.

 

[CShaver]

Ok now I'm even more confused lol. You guys are saying torching makes it easier to wrap, but on the video I watched, He torched it after it was already wrapped.

Does torching it make it more plyable or less plyable?

 

[Keeferes]

Light torch before wrapping, and then light torching after for microcoils to oxidize and "hold" tension.

 

[CShaver]

Light torch before wrapping, and then light torching after for microcoils to oxidize and "hold" tension.

Awesome. Good to know. Thank you!

 

[Keeferes]

Don't try to light the wire on fire. You won't, and you'll just weaken the metal. You'll find a method that works for you. I have been trying and seems just a quick soft glow and move on works best for me. Not to bright of a glow, but not to weak to just "heat" the wire with no color change. I found too, wearing nitrile gloves helps me when wicking the new coil. The oils from my fingers don't get on the wicking material that way. Not that I am sweating like I'm in a sauna, or that I don;t wash my hands before, but your skin produces natural oils no matter what.

 

[Bunnykiller]

the lower the gauge the lower the resistance... resistance differs in the thickness of the wire, the thicker the wire, resistance does not go higher so we got the memnomics out of the way
a coil built with 28ga at 7 wraps with a 1/10" dia will have less resistance than a coil of the same wraps and dia of one built with 32 ga.
so in effect, if you build a coil with 32ga you will need less wraps at the same dia drill bit than you will need if you use 28 ga.

confoosed yet?? I am it basically boils down to wire length ohms per inch stuff...