Question over Mech Mods for non-dripping

[l057c05]

Hi guys this may be a dumb question, but I am getting a new mod and was considering going mech. I had an iTaste mvp 2.0 and the battery malfunctioned. Lucky me, I kept all the packaging except the receipt. So am in the market for a hardy mod, and I was wondering if mech would be the way to go even if I do not sub-ohm. I guess my thought is that since it doesn't have a lot of parts a mech would be hardier and I won't have to worry about those issues. Also, I usually vape on pre-built 1.5 ohm coils, so based on my research as long as I get a decent battery it should not be much of an issue. I know the mechs typically go for about 3.7V, so I do not want to go much higher than 1.5 ohms. Also, I would like to get slowly into sub-ohm as a hobby in the future, so it is a good investment.

Okay that is my reasoning, but like I said "based on my research". I have a decent background with electrical in general so I understand a lot of what to look out for; however, I am new to applying this to vaping. So, I guess what I am looking for is someone more experienced to either confirm or deny my thoughts on this. I have no ego and gladly admit there is a probability I am way off base. Any constructive help for or against me is very welcome and thank you for your time if you read this.

 

[Susan~S]

Just something to consider.

With a mech mod the only way to "fine tune" your vape is to build a new coil (or change your stock coil). With a high vv/vw regulated mod (and its buck/boost circuitry) you can "fine tune" with a push of a button. On a mechanical mod (starting at 4.2v fully charged) your voltage drops as you vape, with a regulated mod this does not happen. Your first hit is just as good as your last hit.

 

[*deleon517*]

While the batteries typically used in mech mods are 3.7v batteries, a fully charged battery will supply 4.2 volts and slowly lower in voltage as the battery drains. This is important to keep in mind when using pre-built coils. Some tank styles will do fine at the level while others will quickly taste burnt.

You may want to look into genesis style tank like the kayfun's. You can start out building coils between 1.2-1.5 ohm, which is where many prefer those to be. Sub-ohm is way more popular with drippers due to their ability to easily adjust airflow on most. More heat requires more air as well to effectively provide a nice hit.

As for batteries you will want to make sure they come from a reputable vendor like rtdvapor or illuminationsupply. While getting 30amp batteries now might be a bit overkill they will be readily available to you when you decide to take the plunge into sub-ohm territory.

 

[Firestorm]

An IMR 3.7v battery has a full charge at 4.2v. You can use whatever 510 threaded atomizer you want on a mechanical mod - disposable or rebuildable. I used to use 1.5ohm cartomizers on my mechs until I got in to RBAs. I like to build my RBAs at 1.3ohms and I mostly use tank atomizers like a Kayfun Lite. I like dual coil RDAs at 1.0ohms and I don't go below that. I do prefer mechanical mods because they are hardier and have no electronics to fail. I don't know if I touched on all of your thoughts and I didn't see a question that you alluded to.

 

[Firestorm]

You may want to look into genesis style tank like the kayfun's

Kayfuns are tank atomizers, and I recommend them too, but they're not Genesis-style atomizers.

 

[Norrin]

Well it depends on how much you vape and what you want to carry. With a mech you are going to get a declining vape from 4.2V till you swap your battery at anything from 3.7V down, so your 1.5 ohm coils will give 12W going down to about 8W for most of your vape time. If you think that will suit you then a mech is a possibility although vaping at lowish power I would suggest that you will probably get more battery life from a mod. An istick, vamo or whatever will give you a more constant vaping experience. If you really want something that won't break get a mech, if your trying to just get something that works cheaply get a vamo, they're cheaper than decent mechs and work at least long enough to make them economically viable.

 

[ronnbert]

If you are looking to go mechanical with stock coils, look into getting a kick. It would be a way to regulate your mech for stock coils instead of relying just on the voltage diminishing over use. I have not personally used a kick, but I do know people who use them with great success! Anyways, Susan is spot on with her comments so take note! Another thing you may want to consider is a regulated tube or box mod. If you get one that is 50W (or more) like the IPVs or sigelei you could run the lower watts for a tank with stock coils and still have room to grow into a dripper. These mods are ones that you add batteries to the unit, so if you were to have one go bad, you could just replace them. Also, most come with built in failsafes that prevent you from building too low or overdraining your battery. Which is one thing you will not get with a mechanical.

 

[deelynnquint]

Using an ohm's law calculator, a new battery at 4.2 and a 1.5 ohm coil will give you 12 watts. As mentioned as the battery power goes down so will the wattage and not all pre-made coils can handle that wattage. It may also give you a very warm vape depending on the airflow of your tank.

You can use a mech mod in that way but it's far better to use with rebuildables. A kayfun rebuildable tank is a great start. (I'm partial to kayfuns )

 

[Sgt.Rock]

I run my RSBT rebuildable tank on a mech here. I typically build my coils to 1 ohm and run them all day until evening and then swap the battery for a fresh one. Towards the end of that cycle there is a noticeable drop in performance but I just hit it a little harder and a little longer to make up for it and it's all good.

It all depends on your vape frequency and style as to whether they will suit you. Personally I'm fine with my Stingray as my all day vape setup.

 

[l057c05]

Wow fast replies, and thank you for all the information. Luckily even though I am in a smaller town we have 3 reputable vape shops that carry name brand batteries. Oh and firestorm, sorry it was not an exact question. I guess it was just a question of am I totally off-base in my thoughts. Thanks for the recommendation for good cartomizers.

Also, the first reply hit the nail on the head with "fine tuning". Definitely, I'm thinking my best option is to go mech with my normal tanks and if look into kickers if that does not work too well. I contacted the owner of my local vape shop for my MVP and they are going to call me back if they are willing to replace the battery unit, so fingers crossed on a back-up unit.

 

[Papa_Lazarou]

Mechs can be great - no electronics to go bad. They excel, however, when you use RBA's (drippers or tanks) and use the build to fine tune the vape. There is a world of difference between a 1.5 ohm single coil and dual coils netting out at .5ohms. Things like atty air flow and chamber design also come into play. Think of it like this: the mod is static (essentially) and the topper is where the vape variables are adjusted.

With a regulated device, power to the coil is adjustable. Used with a prebuilt coil, the topper is static and the device is where the vape variables are adjusted.

Now, if you use prebuilt coils on a mech, everything is static - you get the vape it produces, like it or hate it. It's the simplest setup, and might be perfect, but leaves you little to play with except for trying different resistance prebuilt coils.

OTOH, if you got a good regulated device that could handle RBA's (and a wide range of support resistance builds), such as a DNA, you could have the best of both worlds - adjustability in the device for use with prebuilt coils, and adjustability in both the device and the topper if you ventured into RBA's. A Vapor Shark DNA40, for example, would get you a power range more than adequate for dialling in prebuilt coils (including the newer subohm ones you can get with something like the Aspire Atlantis) and fires RBA's of any sort (and all but the most extreme build resistances). It also has the new temperature control feature, which adds extra safety if you got into rebuilding with Ni200 (nickel) coils.

A lot of DNA devices from reputable manufacturers/vendors come with warranties, so there's extra support there, too.


tl;dr: maybe consider a good DNA device - better control of prebuilt coils and future proofs any RBA dabbling you might get into.

 

[BlueridgeDog]

I tried a mech when I started vaping, thinking it would be simple and reliable. The change in vape quality over the life of the battery put me off and I stopped using it, especially compared to some of the simple mods out there (ileaf for example).

 

[93gc40]

This is easy.. You want a mech.. You currently are using a MVP with what sounds like a pretty fixed, at this point, topper set-up.
So what I'd do is get the mech I wanted, with a VV or VW kick. This way I start out with the mech, but vaping the same as with the MVP. When ready, I can yank the kick, pop in a fresh more powerfull bat and play with sub ohm coils. At worse its a $50 experiment. ($50=mech clone, kick, bats, charger)