i just don't understand what they are? i'm new to nhaler products. i use the CE2 clearomizers.. is that what these are? clearomizers that hold more juice? if so, why are they so expensive? and do they come in a pack? or do i only get one for $28? thanks for any help.
Questions about the VPX Tanks
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I asked Drew what exactly they were...
Basically it's a CE2 with a huge tank around it. I just got the 5mL and stuck it on my XHaler, and don't have to refill all day. It looks kind of ridiculous, to be honest
The thing is now bigger than a cigar. But, I'm not trying to be stealthy with it. This thing is all about convenience. Ever drip and drive? Might as well be on your phone Carrying a spare 801 and bottle of juice in my bag, just in case, is easier than keeping it all in my pocket for constant dripping.
And with no filler, I've not yet experienced a burnt flavor that usually shows up a couple days in.
Why do they cost that much? Well, my former economics professor could answer more gracefully. If you can find the same gear at a lower price and better quality, then go for it.
Nhaler are, in my opinion, leading the way in ingenuity (yes, the grammar is correct
) The cost reflects the benefit to the consumer. When you buy a mod set, you can spend over $100 easily. Why do they cost so much? Because the replaceable parts are cheaper. You are paying for the [unique] tank *and* the CE2. After than, you never have to buy a tank again, just the CE2.
And, given Nhaler's customer service record, it's well worth it.
Basically it's a CE2 with a huge tank around it. I just got the 5mL and stuck it on my XHaler, and don't have to refill all day. It looks kind of ridiculous, to be honest
The thing is now bigger than a cigar. But, I'm not trying to be stealthy with it. This thing is all about convenience. Ever drip and drive? Might as well be on your phone Carrying a spare 801 and bottle of juice in my bag, just in case, is easier than keeping it all in my pocket for constant dripping.And with no filler, I've not yet experienced a burnt flavor that usually shows up a couple days in.
Why do they cost that much? Well, my former economics professor could answer more gracefully. If you can find the same gear at a lower price and better quality, then go for it.
Nhaler are, in my opinion, leading the way in ingenuity (yes, the grammar is correct
) The cost reflects the benefit to the consumer. When you buy a mod set, you can spend over $100 easily. Why do they cost so much? Because the replaceable parts are cheaper. You are paying for the [unique] tank *and* the CE2. After than, you never have to buy a tank again, just the CE2.And, given Nhaler's customer service record, it's well worth it.
thanks for your response. so how long do these last? and how much are the replacement parts. can i get them from nhaler? and does anyone have a picture of these tanks on a tornado/ego battery?
How long they last really is subjective, depending on a too many factors. The replacement cartomizers are here...
510 CE2 XL Pre-Cut Replacement Cartomizers
I do not have any pictures at the moment on an Ego or Riva, but I would suggest staying with the Lower Ohms for lower voltages . Thanks
Drew
510 CE2 XL Pre-Cut Replacement Cartomizers
I do not have any pictures at the moment on an Ego or Riva, but I would suggest staying with the Lower Ohms for lower voltages . Thanks
Drew
so do the replacement cartos last longer than reg CE2 cartos? with my reg carto's, i only get about 2 days out of them. based on that, do you have an idea of how long i would get with the replacement carto's + the VPX Tanks? thanks
I cant vouche for what others think but I have been using a 3.2 CE2 in a tank for over at a week at 5+ volts...
Drew
Drew
uBerNoob, when you say you only get 2 days out of a CE2 clearomizer, do you mean you develop off flavors after 2 days, the plastic breaks after 2 days, or that the burner element ceases to work after 2 days?
I just wanted to clarify that. Maybe some of the experienced vapers have a solution for that, or maybe they have some other insight about why that may be happening. I had heard that the plastic casing on the clearos was a bit fragile, so I was wondering if that might be the failure you were experiencing.
Update:
I "burned" through several of them quite quickly, which may have been a mistake. The current one (CE2, that is) I am using has had no problems at the conclusion of day two. Two possible corrective measures:
1 - The connections may have been loose, since, as I recall, these are press-fitted. I slapped the tank against my hand once, and this one fired right back up every time.
2 - I resumed using the high-voltage juice from NHaler. I had found another vendor by recommendation that had amazing flavor the first time around, and with the same and different flavors the second, I was disappointed, so I went back to Drew. These seem to wick more efficiently, producing the same or more vapor, do not leak nearly as much, and, as such, the tank lasts me a lot longer. This still has residue from the other liquids, so it affects the flavor. I will follow up when this CE2 dies and I replace it.
I believe the issue many are finding is that the CE2 can't be cleaned as a standalone atty can. Most people I know tend to clean (at least blow out) an atty every day or so. CE2's are meant to be disposable...HV mods generally require more frequent attention to attys. You *could* take it apart and clean the coil by whatever means you see fit.
Another note, the juice in the tank changes color with use. Some of the cooked liquid is recycled, as with any atty (ever notice your clear liquids come out brown when cleaning?) At the end of a tank, a light rinse with PG would probably be helpful, or remove the CE2 and rinse with water, then dry thoroughly before replacing. Water on the wick material will not be helpful.
When this tank runs out, I will try some cleaning techniques and see if it helps.
I "burned" through several of them quite quickly, which may have been a mistake. The current one (CE2, that is) I am using has had no problems at the conclusion of day two. Two possible corrective measures:
1 - The connections may have been loose, since, as I recall, these are press-fitted. I slapped the tank against my hand once, and this one fired right back up every time.
2 - I resumed using the high-voltage juice from NHaler. I had found another vendor by recommendation that had amazing flavor the first time around, and with the same and different flavors the second, I was disappointed, so I went back to Drew. These seem to wick more efficiently, producing the same or more vapor, do not leak nearly as much, and, as such, the tank lasts me a lot longer. This still has residue from the other liquids, so it affects the flavor. I will follow up when this CE2 dies and I replace it.
I believe the issue many are finding is that the CE2 can't be cleaned as a standalone atty can. Most people I know tend to clean (at least blow out) an atty every day or so. CE2's are meant to be disposable...HV mods generally require more frequent attention to attys. You *could* take it apart and clean the coil by whatever means you see fit.
Another note, the juice in the tank changes color with use. Some of the cooked liquid is recycled, as with any atty (ever notice your clear liquids come out brown when cleaning?) At the end of a tank, a light rinse with PG would probably be helpful, or remove the CE2 and rinse with water, then dry thoroughly before replacing. Water on the wick material will not be helpful.
When this tank runs out, I will try some cleaning techniques and see if it helps.
I have been using my smaller VPX tank for about a week now. Just this morning it began having a burnt twinge. Is this the CE2 getting old, getting caked, or something else? Is there a fix to the CE2 or just put in a new one. Seems a little fast for the CE2 to be failing.
I'm sure someone out there has a few suggestions. Thanks
I'm sure someone out there has a few suggestions. Thanks
I have both the large tank and the mini. The tanks are great. To clean the CE-2 remove it from the tank. Take off the gasket thing with the fill holes off the CE-2 and put the CE-2 in either water, PGA, or 91% iso-prop alcohol. Let soak for a bit and then remove and blow out through the battery end and then carefully dry the wicks with a paper towel. I typically let mine dry over night and use 91% iso-propl alcohol. You can place the CE-2 in front of a fan for an hour or less and it will dry faster. This final step will get the CE-2 working like new again. Now for the dry burn. Take the CE-2 and scew it on your device. IF you using the Darwin set it to about 6W to 6.5W (3.2 Ohm CE-2). The 1st dry burn I did I didn't realize I had my Darwin at 8.5W and I killed the atty. Press the switch until coil grows red. Blow on the atty and allow it to cool a bit. Repeat this until the wick is white and coil wire is clean. If your tank came with the CE-2 with flat wick material they are an older revision CE-2. The replacements Drew sells are the braided wick version and they are much better.
Matt said it very well from start to finish. One other thing to look for is to make sure that the white gasket that sits between the coil cup and the top cap is on correctly and the molded notches in the gasket are lined up over the wicks. Otherwise the gasket will pinch the wicks and starve them of juice and you will get that burning taste you speak of.
any tips to make it easier to get the ce2's in and out. i'm a weakling.i just got my replacement ce2 and tank (thanks vaperfexion! great warranty and cs!
) and am afraid i will break it.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...crazy-introductory-prices-23.html#post3650570
the dripomizer works extremely well for removing ce2. But looks like they only have customizable version now, not the $4 one I got. With my vpx tank, it worked great fora few days after 1 ce2 mishap. Then it started gurgling and burning and leaking. Realized the gasket may have been misplaced (by me) so I cleaned everything and tried again. This time no gurgle and less leak at first and it seemed to have airflow but when attached to my device i had to puff really hard and still got burnt taste. Then I realized I didn't dry burn, and didn't know how to properly until reading the post above, so now I'm trying that. In doing so the wick is way cleaner now and and I can see the entire wrapped coil burning. I did get like some ash type stuff around which i tried to blow out. Hope its not a problem cuz I dont wanna wash and wait for that thing to dry again. So here goes, hopefully towards the final stretch of the learning curve for me.
Anyone know how to remove the old ce-2? I cant get it out for the life of me, and I'm pretty heartbroken about it.
The best way is to connect the dead CE2/cap/tank to a 510 connection of some kind. I prefer old Ego batteries. Then use the connected battery (or whatever) as leverage to wiggle and pull and wiggle and pull. It will come out. Soaking the cap with the old Ce2 in it, in hot water for 15 minutes helps this process also, since Delrin expands quite a bit in heat.
We do it by mounting a 510 extender through a sheet of plywood (or through a work bench )with an Ego battery on the backside to prevent it from pulling through and then put the closed end of a small box wrench on the connector and then screw the cap/CE2 on top of that. Then you lift the wrench upward and it pulls the cap right off, leaving the CE2 still attached to the 510 extender. But that's a little elaborate for the casual carto remover!
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after doing this I got everything in there pretty snug. I can puff thru either end of the tank when not on my device and the airflow is great. When i put it on my device, it fires and sounds like its working, but puff and puff and nothing comes out. Does this sound familiar to anyone? Could someone advise on what may be wrong..
Somehow, you have cut off the airflow through the tank. Tanks in general can muffle the airflow holes by sitting too tight again the mod/battery. To test it, loosen it up a quarter turn, or as far as it will go and still make a connection and see if it works then. If so, you probably need a 510 stealth adapter to add some clearance. If not, I still think you have an airflow issue around the connectors.
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