Questions regarding first mech mod

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r055co

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I have 5 mech mods and not one of them can deliver 4.2 volts to the atty. if I'm correct there will be some voltage drop from the mod, switch and to the atty so there is no way full 4.2 volts will go the coils.


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Yep, I have over 50 Mech's and a lot of them are high end Mod's like the INJT Pilak which is 92% pure Silver. There is always a drop. 4.2v is not even realistic to use in calculations. For batteries I use Sony VTC4 and Sony VTC5A

I always - 0.4, so with parallel and tubes I figure 3.8v and with series 8.0v
 
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yvaiwhy

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There will of course be voltage drop, but why take this into consideration? What you want to know is if the battery you own can handle the build you have. So use 4.2v as that is the absolute maximum the battery can deliver. Then, you know you are safe. Guesstimating with either a 3.8 or 3.9 as it has previous been suggested may be more accurate, but I don't see the logic at all when using 4.2 gives you the ceiling total.

I'm sorry but isn't 3.7 volts a safer 'guessing game' than a 4.2? Also I wonder why the manufacturers don't label 4.2 volts.


2+2=5 [emoji102]
 

yvaiwhy

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There will of course be voltage drop, but why take this into consideration? What you want to know is if the battery you own can handle the build you have. So use 4.2v as that is the absolute maximum the battery can deliver. Then, you know you are safe. Guesstimating with either a 3.8 or 3.9 as it has previous been suggested may be more accurate, but I don't see the logic at all when using 4.2 gives you the ceiling total.

I'm sorry but isn't 3.7 volts a safer 'guessing game' than a 4.2? Also I wonder why the manufacturers don't label 4.2 volts.


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yvaiwhy

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Yep, I have over 50 Mech's and a lot of them are high end Mod's like the INJT Pilak which is 92% pure Silver. There is always a drop. 4.2v is not even realistic to use in calculations. For batteries I use Sony VTC4 and Sony VTC5A

I always - 0.4, so with parallel and tubes I figure 3.8v and with series 8.0v

Exactly!


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r055co

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There will of course be voltage drop, but why take this into consideration? What you want to know is if the battery you own can handle the build you have. So use 4.2v as that is the absolute maximum the battery can deliver. Then, you know you are safe. Guesstimating with either a 3.8 or 3.9 as it has previous been suggested may be more accurate, but I don't see the logic at all when using 4.2 gives you the ceiling total.
Put an inline meter on it ;)

As long as you're within the CDR of the batteries you're perfectly fine.

But use what you're comfortable with, I'm perfectly comfortable with using and recommending 3.8v - 3.9v.
 
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Ben85

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I'm sorry but isn't 3.7 volts a safer 'guessing game' than a 4.2? Also I wonder why the manufacturers don't label 4.2 volts.


2+2=5 [emoji102]

If you think using 3.7v is "safer" than 4.2v, then you have a massive hole in your knowledge.
 

yvaiwhy

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Put an inline meter on it ;)

As long as you're within the CDR of the batteries you're perfectly fine.

But use what you're comfortable with, I'm perfectly comfortable with using and recommending 3.8v - 3.9v.

I suggested 3.7 as the OP is looking for his first mech and voltage drop differs from mod to mod and atty to atty. we don't want him becoming another statistic (highly unlikely seeing that he has properly educated himself). 3.8 - 3.9 is not a problem at all but would be better if OP measures with an inline meter like you suggested so that he can know for sure how much the drop is and adjust the builds as needed [emoji4]


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yvaiwhy

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Is this necessary? We don't do name calling here.


My apologies if I offended you. With all due respect, you Sir don't have a clue of what you are talking about and your posts regarding this voltage topic is quite misleading. Unless you can prove it. I can prove that there is no way a full 4.2 volts can reach the coil or the atty. Again, have a nice day and sorry if I hurt your feelings at all. I'm a nice guy [emoji4]


2+2=5 [emoji102]
 

Ben85

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I am not offended. This is the internet after all.

You are not understanding what I am saying. I am not sitting here saying that 4.2v is the more accurate figure, I am saying that figure gives you the ceiling current draw - which is then safer. You are arguing with me like I am suggesting to push boundaries, I am doing the exact opposite by saying not to. Using 3.7 in the calculation gives you a lower current total than 4.2 does. So it is always going to be safer.
 

r055co

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I am not offended. This is the internet after all.

You are not understanding what I am saying. I am not sitting here saying that 4.2v is the more accurate figure, I am saying that figure gives you the ceiling current draw - which is then safer. You are arguing with me like I am suggesting to push boundaries, I am doing the exact opposite by saying not to. Using 3.7 in the calculation gives you a lower current total than 4.2 does. So it is always going to be safer.
And as I stated earlier, it's overkill. Actually it's way overkill
 

yvaiwhy

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I am not offended. This is the internet after all.

You are not understanding what I am saying. I am not sitting here saying that 4.2v is the more accurate figure, I am saying that figure gives you the ceiling current draw - which is then safer. You are arguing with me like I am suggesting to push boundaries, I am doing the exact opposite by saying not to. Using 3.7 in the calculation gives you a lower current total than 4.2 does. So it is always going to be safer.

Ben, let me try and make it as easy as I can. I don't know how people do things on the internet but when I'm building I take the voltage which reaches my atty into account which in nowhere on any mod can be full 4.2 volts.

And no, 3.7 or 3.8 volts isn't pushing the limits, it just gives a bit more headroom And draw lower amps from the battery IF you have any idea what I'm trying to say.

That's it, that's as easy as I can put it. I


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r055co

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An example for you using a 0.2 build and a 20a battery.

Using 3.7v, you would calculate a draw of 18.5a. So you would say that is safe.

Using 4.2, I would calculate 21a. Therefore I would not say it is safe.

So please explain how using 3.7 is the "safer" figure in this example?
Being accurate is being safe ;)
 
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yvaiwhy

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An example for you using a 0.2 build and a 20a battery.

Using 3.7v, you would calculate a draw of 18.5a. So you would say that is safe.

Using 4.2, I would calculate 21a. Therefore I would not say it is safe.

So please explain how using 3.7 is the "safer" figure in this example?


Are you for real? Drawing 21A from a 20A battery is safer than drawing 18.5A? [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]


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r055co

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Are you for real? Drawing 21A from a 20A battery is safer than drawing 18.5A? [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]


2+2=5 [emoji102]
think you're missing his point. he's inflating the numbers so people will build a higher ohm
 

yvaiwhy

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think you're missing his point. he's inflating the numbers so people will build a higher ohm

I have no idea what his intentions are but I am not going to endorse over drawing batteries to anyone else. Specially someone who is just picking up the first tube. [emoji121]️


2+2=5 [emoji102]
 
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