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kaac1725

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What is the difference between a mod and a regular battery? I keep seeing tanks that say they're "dual coil" what does that mean? And what's with all these coils that are different ohms and how do you know which one to use? Also, how long does a coil typically last if you're a moderate vaper? I'm not ready to rebuild coils yet so I plan to stick to buying replacements for now, but I had an EVOD (I think) tank that blew through 2 coils in 2 weeks. Is that normal or was I doing something wrong?
 

edyle

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What is the difference between a mod and a regular battery? I keep seeing tanks that say they're "dual coil" what does that mean? And what's with all these coils that are different ohms and how do you know which one to use? Also, how long does a coil typically last if you're a moderate vaper? I'm not ready to rebuild coils yet so I plan to stick to buying replacements for now, but I had an EVOD (I think) tank that blew through 2 coils in 2 weeks. Is that normal or was I doing something wrong?

A mod is usually a container for a battery.

Dual coil means there are two coils in parallel; basically its going to take twice the power and make twice the fog.

A coil head might last a day to a week depending,
Moderate vaper? About a week I guess. Again depending also on the liquid; darker liquids gunk up coils faster.

After that they need cleaning; best way to clean is dryburning.
 

tj99959

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    First off welcome to ecf.

    These fit in a "mod"

    479awimrbatteries5iw.jpg

    Dual coil means that there are two heating elements instead of just one. (waste of time IMO)
     
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    CreepyLady

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    What is the difference between a mod and a regular battery?

    There are Mechanical devices with removable batteries, Regulated Devices with built in batteries, Regulated Devices with removable batteries, eGo batteries, VV eGo batteries - there are a LOT of different things.

    The easiest explanation is Mechanical is a battery holder with no electronics or safety features, Regulated devices can have removable batteries, but may not and they have electronics to allow you to set watts, volts, test ohms etc and they have safety features to prevent battery/device failure.

    eGo styles are the small pen like batteries that are internal only and are either fixed to output around 3.7V or have a twist like feature to allow a range of voltage to be selected. The battery in an eGo is built in and not removable.

    I keep seeing tanks that say they're "dual coil" what does that mean?

    Some tanks have 1 coil and some have 2 coils wired in parallel. Dual means its a two-fer.

    And what's with all these coils that are different ohms and how do you know which one to use?

    If you have a VV/VW device it doesnt much matter, you will be able to increase/decrease your settings to get your desired results. If you are using a non VV eGo most folks stay around 1.8

    Also, how long does a coil typically last if you're a moderate vaper? I'm not ready to rebuild coils yet so I plan to stick to buying replacements for now, but I had an EVOD (I think) tank that blew through 2 coils in 2 weeks. Is that normal or was I doing something wrong?

    This depends on a ton of factors in your liquid. Darker sweeter juices ruin coils faster than clear less sweet ones.

    Rinsing with hot water between fills and dryburning when you notice a drop in vapor production (youtube "dryburn evod" if you need info on this) will prolong the life you get out of each coil. You can also soak them overnight in PGA to remove goopy buildup.
     
    Sweet juice clog up coils quick too. And thicker juice. IMO mods are the way to go. After having tons of ego or pen style batteries I would choose a mod. Dual coils just give more flavor and more vapor. Coils can last anywhere from a day to a few weeks, depends on a lot of things. I've had coils pop in half a day and then had some last 2 weeks.
     

    AttyPops

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    Topic of the day: Coils! ;) :)

    So much variation in results, and it takes time to understand it all. More complicated than burning a stick of tobacco.
    Don't give up though. After a bit, you'll either "get into it" and study up, or just "find something that works" and go with it. Either approach is fine.

    But from our end, explaining it gets to be tough. So I'll try both ways: Summary and detail. I don't know what device you are using though, so I'll just guess an eGo. If you have VV or some other adjustable mod, it gets even longer to explain.

    A) The summary:
    If you have an eGo and an EVOD setup, and you're vaping at about 3.3/3.4 volts (that's a standard eGo)...you want about 1.5 to 1.8 ohms. Can go as high as two ohms. This is single coil. For dual coils, you don't want to use a standard eGo. You need a mod or at least a device that can put out twice the watts because you're powering two coils (more on that later).

    B) The details:
    Ohms = resistance. Electrical Friction. There's a ton of posts here on ECF...do a search. Basically, the more ohms, the more friction so LESS power gets drained per second from the battery. AKA ...it's cooler as the number gets higher.

    However, since dual coils have two coils side-by-side, they have 1/2 the friction (assuming they are identical ohms each). Think sucking a thick milkshake through two straws rather than one....more per second. So a dual coil has 1/2 the ohms of a single coil for two of the same coils. E.g. Two 2.0 ohm coils side-by-side are a 1.0 ohm dual coil. You use the voltage for 2.0 ohm coils, but only have 1.0 ohm of resistance (because there's two coils) and thus need twice the watts to power the thing.

    So watts are about voltage (the "push") and ohms (the resistance). There's always amps too (the flow measurement).

    Shoot for about 7-8 watts for a standard single coil. Watts = voltage x voltage / ohms.
    For your theoretical eGo device, 3.4 volts at 1.8 ohms = 3.4 x 3.4 /1.8 = 6.42 watts. At 1.5 ohms it is 7.7 watts.

    Once you get into other types of coils, it varies again. People using rebuildable systems use other gauge wires and it makes a difference in how you calc stuff.

    How long do they last??? Depends!
    If you have a wicking issue and over vape them, they get too hot and pop.
    If you over volt them, they get too hot and pop.
    If you dry-burn them and over stress them, they get too hot and pop.
    If the wick is gunked up, that's a wicking issue. Some juices gunk faster than others. Dark juices in particular.

    I get about 3 weeks from one EVOD coil. YMMV.
     
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    Shootist

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    Basically all battery holders, the unit that holds a battery whether they are removable/changeable or built in (Non-Removable) are called Mod's. It is a name, designation, specific to Vaping. Derived in the early days of vaping when users modified something that held a battery, like a flash light tube, to attach a device to vaporize the E-liquid

    Every cartomizer, Clearomizer (a tank system) or a Rebuildable Dripping atomizer has a heating coil that vaporizes the E-liquid. Those heating coils are of different ohms. How do you know which one to use? I suggest you stick to the same ohm rating as the head that came with your clearomizer. Once you get use to some more of the terms and the science of vaping then you can start experimenting with different ohm heads and or building (Wrapping) your own coils.

    The life span of a atomizer head depends on what voltage you are pumping through it, the E-liquid you are using and the amount of times a day you vape on it.
    I've had coils last a few weeks. But actually I don't know how long any one will last. I usually change mine on a Wim. The 2 I have changed out still worked. I just figured I'd change them. I have 2 Kanger Protank 3 Mini's that I've had for about 2.5 weeks. One of them I changed the head about a week ago. The other I haven't changed the head and they both still work fine as far as I can tell. I used them both everyday.
    I have a Aspire Nautilus that I've had for about 3 weeks, +/-, and changed the head once so I could take the old head apart to see how it was built. The second head has been in it for well over a week if not 2 weeks. Still vapes fine AFAICT. Juice taste the same.

    You aren't doing anything wrong, maybe. Are the batteries you have adjustable, Voltage adjustable? If they are you might want to try turning the voltage down some.

    If you are using dark thick juice that will also clog up heads.
     

    AttyPops

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    Wow! Thank you all for your responses! That really helped. So I have one more question: I just ordered a kamry x6 1300mah vv battery and a protank2 to go on it. The protank is dual coil and comes with both 1.8 ohm or 2.0 ohm. If I choose the 2.0 is the battery I bought going to be enough to power it?

    I hate to go "all math" on ya...so I won't. ;)
    I'll let you do it to yourself!
    1) Find an ohm's law calculator. Just google for it. Or here's one: Ohm's Law Calculator
    2) Plug in any two known values...it will give you the other two.
    3) You can check these results against your mod specs. Things like amp limits.

    BUT.......it's important to know how to deal with multi-coil setups. Basically, you figure out what ohms a single coil is...and use the proper voltage for that single coil.

    So in the example you gave....2.0 ohm dual coil is really two 4 ohm coils. And you want fairly high voltage for that. Then there's the wire used. Sigh. It gets so hard to explain all the variables. Maybe someone with that setup will tell you exactly what works.

    You have to realize that whatever watts your rig outputs gets split across the two coils (or 4 coils or whatever). So let's say you can output 15 watts....that's 7.5 watts per coil. Might work.

    15 watts at 2.0 ohms is....5.5 volts and 2.7 amps. If you have a device with a 2.0 amp limit or 2.5 ...the result will be lower.

    Make sense?
    Also, you can go at it the other way. Select the max voltage and plug in 2.0 ohms and see what you come up with.

    Note that some regulated mods will "trip" and refuse to work over X watts or less than Y ohms. You have to look up the specs.
    Sorry if I'm making it confusing...it's just that it is confusing for newbies that don't mess with electronics all the time.

    P.S. I couldn't find the full specs on that x6 quickly...I'll let you do it or maybe someone will chime in.
     
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    Susan~S

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    Wow! Thank you all for your responses! That really helped. So I have one more question: I just ordered a kamry x6 1300mah vv battery and a protank2 to go on it. The protank is dual coil and comes with both 1.8 ohm or 2.0 ohm. If I choose the 2.0 is the battery I bought going to be enough to power it?

    Either coil will work fine. The is such a small difference in the resistance of those two coils that you won't notice the difference when vaping. Just put either coil in your tank, set your voltage to the lowest setting, and slowly dial it up until you find your "sweet spot" for the flavor you are vaping. If you start getting a burnt taste, dial down the voltage. It's that simple.

    Below are some blog posts by ECF member Baditude that I highly recommend for someone new to vaping.

    1. A Good Starter's Setup for a Beginning Vapor
    2. Advancing Up the Vaping Ladder with Egos and Mods
    3. Proper terminology - Is it a carto, a tank, or what? A Guide to Juice Attachments.
    4. Something Safe for Cinnamon and Citrus Flavors

    Good luck!
     

    edyle

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    Wow! Thank you all for your responses! That really helped. So I have one more question: I just ordered a kamry x6 1300mah vv battery and a protank2 to go on it. The protank is dual coil and comes with both 1.8 ohm or 2.0 ohm. If I choose the 2.0 is the battery I bought going to be enough to power it?

    Well I don't think protank2's have space for dual coils so I suspect you misread your order and probably ordered the protank3.

    Once you have a vv device you can adjust for the different ohm coils.

    Is the battery going to be enough to power it? Yes. Same as with 1.8 ohm as with 2.0 ohm.

    This question is: is your 1200 mah battery going to be enough to power DUAL COIL.

    I will probably need frequent recharge.
     

    edyle

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    Thank you! I had no idea the size of the threads made a difference

    On a 510 threaded tank, there's barely a fraction of a milimeter separating the positive pin and the negative body of the tank.
    2014_03_05_3_a9a7a7e77744df4d73ac.jpg


    Plus on most tanks like the protanks, the iclears, and many others, the airflow has to come up through that very confined 510 threaded space.

    Fortunately, Joyetech designed airflow into their ego-cc tank last year, then Kanger and Aspire added airflow control on their new tanks, the aerotank and the nautilus, putting the airflow on the sides instead of relying on the 510 connector for it.

    Mechanically, having a big 20 mm wide tank relying on a little 6mm wide 510 screw on connector leaves you with some rocking; people end up buying 'beauty rings' to compensate for it.
     
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