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The Twist uses a buck/boost circuit to lower or raise the voltage and provide full range vaping. A buck circuit provides voltages lower than what you could get from the battery alone. A boost circuit provides for voltages higher than battery voltage. A good rule of thumb for long battery life in terms of chargeability is to charge it when the battery voltage reaches about 3.5v. It's 4.1v or so off the charger. When the taste wanes a bit, swap it to the charger. You always need two batteries so that you can swap back and forth.
There will be loss of ability to maintain higher voltages at some point in the charge level, but it will be minimal as long as you don't force it to perform until cutoff.
The Twist gives you 3.2v to 4.8v. It still uses a smaller battery inside the case with a limiter circuit that can supply 2.5 amps. If you use a 1.5 ohm dual with the Twist, it will back down voltages to prevent going over the 2.5 amp current rating. Over 4 volts, you may not be able to get advertised voltage.
That said, all you need for a 1.5 ohm DC is somewhere in the 3.5v range to vape satisfactorily. That's 8.16 watts. The common point for most vapers is 6 to 8 watts. If you need more power than that, I'd look for a 3.5 amp PV like the Provari.
Use the Twist with at 2.5 to 3 ohm coil and you will be able to use the entire range of voltage the Twist can provide. At 4.8v and 3 ohms, you will pull 1.6 amps of current and produce a 7.7 watt vape. That's a good place to be for battery life and a satisfying vape. If you need a little more, drop to a 2.5 ohm coil. You can actually use a 2 ohm carto at 4.8v and stay slightly under the max amp limit, but battery life will suffer. 2 ohms is good at 3.7v (6.845 watts).
There will be loss of ability to maintain higher voltages at some point in the charge level, but it will be minimal as long as you don't force it to perform until cutoff.
The Twist gives you 3.2v to 4.8v. It still uses a smaller battery inside the case with a limiter circuit that can supply 2.5 amps. If you use a 1.5 ohm dual with the Twist, it will back down voltages to prevent going over the 2.5 amp current rating. Over 4 volts, you may not be able to get advertised voltage.
That said, all you need for a 1.5 ohm DC is somewhere in the 3.5v range to vape satisfactorily. That's 8.16 watts. The common point for most vapers is 6 to 8 watts. If you need more power than that, I'd look for a 3.5 amp PV like the Provari.
Use the Twist with at 2.5 to 3 ohm coil and you will be able to use the entire range of voltage the Twist can provide. At 4.8v and 3 ohms, you will pull 1.6 amps of current and produce a 7.7 watt vape. That's a good place to be for battery life and a satisfying vape. If you need a little more, drop to a 2.5 ohm coil. You can actually use a 2 ohm carto at 4.8v and stay slightly under the max amp limit, but battery life will suffer. 2 ohms is good at 3.7v (6.845 watts).
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Thanks Dave. I guess I am looking at it a slightly different way. I know the sweet spot for most vapers is 6 - 8 watts. So if I use a max of 8 watts and then also stipulate that I don't want to exceed 2 amps to protect my equipment, then my voltage requirement would be 4 volts using a 2.0 ohm resistor. That kind of puts the voltage in the middle of the Twist's range (actually 3.2 - 4.8). But my question really is, if I set the Twist at 4.0 volts throughout the life of the charge, will it deliver a constant 4.0 volts or will it fall off toward the end of the charge cycle? BTW, I'm not an EE. I just know how Ohm's law works...the formula anyway.
Short answer: It stay consistent.
Longer answer:
General rule with vv (variable voltage regulated) .....It stays consistent until the very end where it could drop off as the battery can't supply enough current (or it cuts out before that anyway). It's regulated.
There are different forms of regulation and the YMMV thing applies... so see specific reviews once you narrow it down to see if a particular device had any issues (like a bad power regulation scheme that gave it poor results).
Longer answer:
General rule with vv (variable voltage regulated) .....It stays consistent until the very end where it could drop off as the battery can't supply enough current (or it cuts out before that anyway). It's regulated.
There are different forms of regulation and the YMMV thing applies... so see specific reviews once you narrow it down to see if a particular device had any issues (like a bad power regulation scheme that gave it poor results).
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Even my standard eGo batteries maintain a good vape with a 2 ohm carto until just before cutoff.
Sorry, I tend to tell folks how to build a watch when asked for the time. It's the tech guy in me.
Sorry, I tend to tell folks how to build a watch when asked for the time. It's the tech guy in me.
Thanks for the info fellas. AndDaveP...you might think you go overboard on your answers, but I do a very poor job of asking questions. The question I'm really asking is if I find a voltage setting I like on my VV battery for a given set-up, will I have to adjust the setting toward the end of the charge cycle to compensate for the battery losing voltage?
And that differs from a standard battery doesn't it? Just for grins...what is it in a VV battery that allows them to deliver a constant voltage that a standard battery cannot do? Capacitors or something?
A battery is just a battery. a VV PV has a buck, boost, or buck/boost circuit in line with the battery.
It gets technical, but the heart of the circuit is an IC chip that's able to provide variable output for a constant input voltage. In the diagram below, a potentiometer (volume control) between the output (Vout) and the FB (feedback) pins will produce a variable output voltage.
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There comes a point in the batteries charge cycle where nothing will prevent voltage drop off. Most VV PV's just turn off when they reach that point. (over discharge protection) The quality of the components in the PV will determine how well it all works, and it's pretty safe to say that you will not find a $30 ckt board in a $20 PV.
It gets technical, but the heart of the circuit is an IC chip that's able to provide variable output for a constant input voltage. In the diagram below, a potentiometer (volume control) between the output (Vout) and the FB (feedback) pins will produce a variable output voltage.
Well, that diagram kind of looks like the spaghetti dinner I made last night. But your explanation made sense to me. Basically, there is compensation going on that holds the voltage steady. Thanks DaveP. Someone explained Ohm's Law to me and how it relates to e-cigs. It was the best lesson I ever got to shape future purchasing decisions and troubleshoot problems. Again, I'm no EE, but it all made sense to me and was an extremely valuable lesson going forward. I see a lot of people stumbling around trying to figure out why their stuff doesn't work. A lesson in using the Ohm's calculator would be helpful. For example, what people really need to know is that their "sweet spot" is at that 6 - 8 watt range. They also need to know that they should keep amps at 2.0 or below for equipment protection. From there, they should use batteries and attys accordingly and match them up correctly. Presto! Your vape experience improves.
buy the parts necessary to build an eGo Twist. Not free samples, not discontinued boost boardS from eBay.
The board in the Twist probably has a fair market value of about $8 TO $10.
Can you build the equivalent for $20, using free labor
The trick is to etch the board with small enough traces to accommodate all the parts and still have enough copper left to handle the load. You have to be able to create a cherry red glow on a dry atty without burning up the traces on the MOSFET. Even with laser printer heat transfer paper it requires some software and a good printer. Only in quantity does it make sense unless you are just trying to prove you can do it.
After that, there the price of a metal machining mill for making the tube mod case. And, you have to buy a switch, a socket for the atty, and a battery.
I'll just pay for pre-built foreign labor and USA import markup with a warranty.
After that, there the price of a metal machining mill for making the tube mod case. And, you have to buy a switch, a socket for the atty, and a battery.
I'll just pay for pre-built foreign labor and USA import markup with a warranty.
Here's a good graphic representation of voltage, resistance, and wattage.
http://www.vaporrater.com/images/Safe Vaping Chart.jpg
Here's an OHM's Law calculator with some info on manual calculation.
Ohm's Law Calculator with Power
Say Dave, before I forget, how can I relate the milliamps in my set up versus the battery I'm using? In other words, say my set up is using 1.5 amps (1500 mA) and I'm using a 650 mAH battery. How do I calculate how long that battery will last? It doesn't seem to be the same thinking for killiwatt hours. For example, if I am using a space heater that operates at 1,000 watts per hour that is one killiwatt hour on my electric bill. What am I not seeing here? Remember, I'm not an EE.
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Your 650mah battery is really a 2.4 watt hour battery.
They use mah just to confuse us
They use mah just to confuse us
Another quick question Dave, before I forget. Is it necessary to charge these eGO batteries for 8 hours out of the package?
Thanks for thepower chart. I actually looked it up just minutes before you sent it. I actually made my own chart (for a 6 - 8 watt range) using the Ohm's claculator. BTW, I just got a small Kanger M3 clearo. There's a little insert in the package that says "1.8 - 2.3 ohm". How can a clearo be rated as a range of ohms?
production tolerances.
A concrete block has an average weight of 35 to 50 pounds. I have one that weighs 42.5 pounds.
Your clearo will have a specific ohms value, and it will hopefully be somewhere between 1.8 and 2.3 ohms, maybe.
A concrete block has an average weight of 35 to 50 pounds. I have one that weighs 42.5 pounds.
Your clearo will have a specific ohms value, and it will hopefully be somewhere between 1.8 and 2.3 ohms, maybe.
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