The costs of running this huge site are paid for by ads. Please consider registering and becoming a Supporting Member for an ad-free experience. Thanks, ECF team.

Rat shack switches

Discussion in 'Battery Mods' started by djamwolfe, Oct 12, 2011.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
Image has been removed.
URL has been removed.
Email address has been removed.
Media has been removed.
  1. djamwolfe

    djamwolfe Full Member

    Aug 17, 2011
    Grand Blanc
    I built my first box mod a few weeks ago, and used one of these switches. I was told here that the .5A limit was too low, but so far they seem to be working fine.
    Now the question -- The switch is labeled for .5A at 125v, that means it can handle about 60 watts of power. If I convert that to 3.7V i come up with about 16A of current at 3.7V. Is my math or concept wrong?
    Hope to find some answers

  2. mv2envy

    mv2envy Super Member ECF Veteran

    Aug 15, 2011
    Los Angeles
    Your math is correct. It will be fine.
  3. Rocketman

    Rocketman Ultra Member ECF Veteran

    Think of it this way.

    When the switch is closed and conducting, how much voltage does the switch see across the contacts? Hopefully milli volts.When the switch is open the insulation needs to protect you from a 125volt short to not shock you (not a problem for an e-cig).
    With 125 volts, switch arcing is more of a problem than at 3.7 volts.

    16 amps with a 1/2 amp switch?

    Ratings can not be "multiplied" like that. A 0.5 amp 125 volt switch is much better than a tact switch.
    For personal use pick a cheap switch you like. If you plan on giving or selling a boxmod to someone else, pick something better.
  4. djamwolfe

    djamwolfe Full Member

    Aug 17, 2011
    Grand Blanc
    Well even if i use a 1.5ohm atty, I'd still be under 2.5A -- so I feel OK with this switch.

  5. KAC_fenris

    KAC_fenris Full Member

    Aug 21, 2011
    How come I've used this type of switch which has the same specs, but it keeps failing? I usually get mis-fires or delays in firing and almost every other day, they fail (some don't even fire, one actually got stuck and I couldn't press it).


    Maybe it's a cheaper version than what Radioshack sells because it's from a local dealer here in the Philippines (we don't have Radioshack anymore over here; they closed shop years ago).
  6. Rocketman

    Rocketman Ultra Member ECF Veteran

    Take one of your failed switches and open it up.
    Look at the little disk that contacts the two pins. The harder you press, the more you damage the switch.
    If you don't press hard enough the switch contacts erode.

    A positive stop for button force and a spring loaded contact force is more reliable.
    Contact size and material will determine longevity with higher currents.
    Devon: The Rat Shack switch is much better than the 59 cent switch.
    It will probably last you a long time.
    I have used both. A reasonable spec for the RS switch would be an amp or two at low voltage DC.
    Just not something I would pass on to someone else, unless it included an offer to repair if it failed.

    It's a shame that some of our vendors sell stuff with overloaded components.
    This didn't used to be much of a problem, but with atty resistances getting lower and mod voltages getting higher reliability switches become more important.
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice