RBAs - my idea for no leaks fill hole.

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So I read loads here about 'screw in' vs. 'screw out' and leaks vs. airlocks/bad wicking - my solution so far on the one 'CHID' I have has been to cover the screw hole with small piece of silicone rubber cut from the end of a carto packaging seal - clean and rough up the metal around the hole, rough up one side of the silicon, then glue the silcone piece over the hole with CA glue. I then drill another tiny hole (1mm or less dia.) as far away from the fill hole as I can for the 'breather'.

Stick a pin or sewing needle through the silicone to pierce it, and using the 'needle top' bottles I have I fill through the silicone with the breather hole as the high point of the tank.

The fill hole all but closes up completely when the needle bottle is removed (works just like a baby's safety cup seal really), and the tiny breather hole tends not to leak, whilst allowing plenty for the ingress of air to replace the used juice - so far it works for me anyway.

Next step (when I get more RBAs to play with, heheheh... ) is to put a silicone rubber 'flap' on the inside of the tank, over the breather, attached at only one side - that way when pressure in the tank is lower than atmospheric, the flap opens, but when greater than or equal to, it remains closed (like a read valve), meaning my thinner juices when really warm, won't have a tendancy to 'persist' their way out even the tiny hole and into my darned pockets, leaving me 'embarrassingly stained'.

As I said - works for me anyways ',;~}~

Be well all!

DV (There's never enough Vapir!)
 
Doesn't surprise me in the least - seems I independently come up with loads of good (or even great) ideas that others have already had (or are just about o have, heheheh... ) - in fact some days I only have to have an idea and say it out loud to then hear about it within hours from another source thousands of miles away LOL!

Just a consequence of global consciousness and the common unconscious at play far as I can figure it, but (at least in this case) since I'm not trying to make any money out of it, or change the world for brownie points, well then that's just cool-and-dandy. However, *if it helps someone to do this themselves at home for free*, then hells yeah send me the freakin' brownie points for my small collection and I'll smile a little more for a while eh, heheheheh...

Cheers, and Be Well!

',;~}~

DV (I shoot that someone read my post then time travelled back to cash in, but I will find them, and then I will mess them up. Oh yes, I will mess them up... )
 
LOL! Indeed many of us should be rich, eh ',;~}~

Having said that - I been ''thinking' again (careful folks - may be est to stay in and check your doors are locked) if someone did have such advanced tech as time travel and/or mind reading, surely they could make enough from the tech itself, that they wouldn't need to cash in on other's ideas, heheheh.

While I'm back here though - can anyone tell me which RB tank atty it is that's already got the leak-proof breather/filler seal in place? Curious minds demand to know.

',;~}~

Cheers!

DV

"I've all to often been accused of 'always being right' but that's not true - it's just that when I'm wrong, I keep my mouth shut."
 
Hi bz,
Do you mean use the whole cap? - If so that could get a bit awkward to fit - The idea I suggested (that's already been had, heheheh... ) is the same thing/works essentially the same way - but all you need is the rubbery material itself over an existing fill hole. As long as the 'rubber' in question is tough and flexible enough, thick enough to offer a good barrier when the hole closes up etc. is taste free and fairly chemically impervious, it shouldn't matter what the source of it is. Oh, and should be easily glue-able to metal too.

I suggested the silicone carto or atty-type end caps the things come packaged with as I figured most vapers would have them to spare and that's what I used myself, but yeah why not - cut or pull out a piece from one of those dispensing phials/vials and give that a go.

I really wish I had even a normal amt. of diasposable £$£$ - I'd buy me a whole bunch of RBAs to mess with - I love to experiment with things but can't handle having my units off-line whilst I do, so for now I'm stuck trying to build 'test-bed' versions from whatever scrap I have to hand to indulge my tinkering with, and after melting the wall of my Smok carto tank based one playing with carbon fibre (as wick and element), I'm trying to learn now how to work with glass instead LOL!

But next thing for the fill seals will likely be to just drill a big fill hole and fill it with a tough-type silicone sealant, then cut a small 'X' slot with a scalpel, see how that fares - gotta be better than having a piece on the surface fastened with glue I suppose.

Cheers and be well!

',;~}~

DV
 

bzmotoninja83

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One idea instead of having to glue anything would be if you're using a rba tank setup, mind you this would have to be made not bought because no one has done so.

Using a thin layer of silicone sandwiched between two top layers.

I can't provide a pic of my idea right now because I'm on my phone but think of the Vivi Tank or, any rba tank for that matter.

Looking at where the coil and wick stuff is, add another floor. With the silicone "sheet" in-between.

To have everything still line up as the original, one could shorten the middle carto-tubing to make up for the additional thickness.

It would almost look like the recent rba tank that is black with red o-rings. Where the cap is pressed on, not threaded.



(MY NAME IS BILL Z AND I APPROVE THIS MESSAGE)
 
@bzm' - Yup - got the picture from your first line (I hope!) and should be easy enough to do - even a thin sheet of metal (like beer or better food can lid or similar) should work - the screws for the terminals should hold it down and provide the -ve electrical connection to the main layer too.

Personally I have a fondness for CA and use a ton of it in my various projects (but most of the stuff I use by far is as a finish for the wooden aspects of my jewellery making - it's utterly the bees' knees as finishes go) - as a glue though I find it easy to use and also easy to remove with a scalpel or craft blade.

However, the large 'test-bed' RBA I'm in the process of making from a small, blue glass essential oil bottle will have a double layer mid-plate, so I could implement your idea quite easily there I would think.

Nice thinking ',;~}~

Cheers and Be Well!

DV
 
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bzmotoninja83

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Make two. Send me one to review?

The idea here, for those who need visuals.......

Drip tip <>[~~]|[~~~]= battery side. The thin part between the tank and wick area would be a thin permeable layer of silicone of some sort. For filling and not having to remove a screw or cap to refill.


One other thought, so you don't get a dry-burn issue, if we have a screw that's small enough, don't know if its even made. One that's like a banjo bolt on a braking system? Nvm. That's sounding super expensive. We could have a hole "pre-punched" in the silicone layer much like a ce3 bottom coil clearomizer would have for filling. That way air would still be able to make its way into the tank.......

Well, gotta go fix the wife's truck. Later.
 
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