RBA's with Kick Question

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chrisjamez

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I have the following setup.
Atmizoo Roller
Z Atty U
Kick

I seem to have noticed that when I first set this up, I accidentally used 28 gauge Kanthal (.9 ohms) and with 400 SS Mesh wick and the it seemed to hit harder with just the battery and a short stop at 3.7 volts than when I put the kick in all the way turned up.

I changed the wire to 30 gauge Kanthal (1.6 ohms) which I meant to use in the first place and the kick seems to be firing properly now and hitting like a champ.

Does anyone know if the kick just does not seem to work with very low resistance wick coil setups?
 
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Cjax

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That's because a .9 ohm coil on a fresh battery is more than 10 watts, so it was in fact hitting harder. The Kick is a great little device, but not without it's limitations. Plus I don't think the kick is supposed to fire anything below 1.2 ohms. Never tried that low with mine, I usually stay in the 1.7~2ohm range.
 

junkman

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I have the following setup.
Atmizoo Roller
Z Atty U
Kick

I seem to have noticed that when I first set this up, I accidentally used 28 gauge Kanthal (.9 ohms) and with 400 SS Mesh wick and the it seemed to hit harder with just the battery and a short stop at 3.7 volts than when I put the kick in all the way turned up.

I changed the wire to 30 gauge Kanthal (1.6 ohms) which I meant to use in the first place and the kick seems to be firing properly now and hitting like a champ.

Does anyone know if the kick just does not seem to work with very low resistance wick coil setups?

Kick is recommended between 1.3ohm to 3ohms. 5-10 watts.

0.9 ohm at 3.7 volt is 15+ watts.

The Kick – Instructions « Evolv
 

chrisjamez

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Well it all makes perfect sense now. I appreciate the help. I knew it had to be something like that. I like my RBA's to be around 1.5 ohms same as my cartos. The best thing though is I can use my carto tanks on the roller at 9-10 watts and it hits great.

Thats why I figured it had something to do with that 28 gauge kanthol.

One other questions, does the kick make the battery fire the same watts until it dies unlike the gradual reduced hit from a non kicked battery?

Again, thanks for the help guys.
 

chrisjamez

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That's correct. You don't get any voltage drop with the kick. If you think you are experiencing one, it's really just the "stutter-vape" telling you to change batteries. Some folks say the kick reduces batt life, but I felt like I was changing my batts sooner WITHOUT the kick due to the voltage drop.

Cjax, much appreciated. I like many others started with Ego-C about 7 months ago, graduated to a ZMAX and various cartos tanks and then made the step into the RBA world with a SMOK Telescop and Gensis Style Cheapy. I decided I like it so now I have a nice setup and want to understand exactly what I am doing as to not mess anything up and of course get closer to that "Perfect Vape"

I really appreciate it.

Take care!
 

Cjax

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We are all on the quest for our own personal "vaping nirvana". Everytime I get close something new comes out that seems to entice me a little more that what I currently have. I'm pretty close now with my current set-ups, but tomorrow I'm sure China will release it's new show-stopper and I'll get drawn in again and start the learning process all over for the new gadget! Sure is fun trying out all the new stuff, but it relegates me to using the clones until I find what really works for me b4 I shell out 200+ on an atty I've only seen pics of!
 

chrisjamez

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Yeah, what they dont tell you at the gas station when buying that first generic e-cig as that you will soon become a hobbyist and develop an almost insatiable urge to try out cool new things etc. lol, I enjoy it though and doing the math, I have spent about 700$ on vaping since I started which is still less than I would have spent on cigarettes.

Hopefully there will come a time when I stop buying things other than juice haha. Fat chance....
 
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