RDA Round-Table Discussion and Lookout

[Uncletattoowhat]

Yeah that fuchai looks nice, much better then the 150w I can't stand that one lol I only use it for building on and firing since it goes the lowest out of all the mods I have, other then that it wasn't great day 1. I'd definitely rather have the fuchai any day!

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What I find hilarious is the evolution has never been more power for me, but lower minimum resistance. I remember when i got my first sig100 and thinking "I'll never build down to 0.2". Then my sig150 "i'll never even want to go below 0.1". Now I'm all like "this DNA200 doesnt have minimum resistance?! NEED IT NOWZ".

 

[Hanha]

Oh, also, anyone know of any regulated devices that will fire below 0.1ohm in power/wattage mode other than the SnowWolf or DNA200? I tend to use Nichrome80 as the base for all my coils, so TC is not much of a concern.

I think iJoy A160 fired 0.09 when a friend was checking ohms with it.
Not sure do they sell that model anymore but iJoy T160 is almost the same. Very nice mod, light and fits in the hand well.

 

[HeiSINberg]

What I find hilarious is the evolution has never been more power for me, but lower minimum resistance. I remember when i got my first sig100 and thinking "I'll never build down to 0.2". Then my sig150 "i'll never even want to go below 0.1". Now I'm all like "this DNA200 doesnt have minimum resistance?! NEED IT NOWZ".

Yeah I feel the same, watts aren't my real goal but I do like at least up to 100, I'd never use it but I like the comfort room of knowing it's there just in case. I do want a dna200 now that you mention it but the one I want is super expensive. As the hipster kids would put it, "Dat no resistance level tho!" Which is a nice feature I might add lol. Now you have me wanting a fuchai, I want it to replace my sig150, not sure I love the dimensions on it though. Decisions...

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[Mr.Mann]

Sure took to that Hobo quick, huh???

Just kinda makes sense to me. Some atties, for whatever reason, work well for some and other for others. This is one for me. @HeiSINberg was right again!

Yeah that fuchai looks nice, much better then the 150w I can't stand that one lol I only use it for building on and firing since it goes the lowest out of all the mods I have, other then that it wasn't great day 1. I'd definitely rather have the fuchai any day!

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I got two coming but I played with one at a shop today. The battery door is plain dumb! It is even more loose than the previous and can come off by just giving one shake to the mod. Guess the mod needs a vape band! LOL

 

[HeiSINberg]

Just kinda makes sense to me. Some atties, for whatever reason, work well for some and other for others. This is one for me. @HeiSINberg was right again!



I got two coming but I played with one at a shop today. The battery door is plain dumb! It is even more loose than the previous and can come off by just giving one shake to the mod. Guess the mod needs a vape band! LOL

Hahaha! Wow I thought it was just my sig150 that did the door thing, I HATED that door with a passion. I could cough and it would fall off.

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[jhhollier]

I have a Reuleaux RX200 coming. I couldn't say no to a triple 18650 mod, TC, firmware upgradeable for $54 shipped. If the DNA 200 version has the screen ribbon issue corrected, I may pick one up as well. Actually, I'd love the Hobo X DNA Ultem version.

 

[HeiSINberg]

I have a Reuleaux RX200 coming. I couldn't say no to a triple 18650 mod, TC, firmware upgradeable for $54 shipped. If the DNA 200 version has the screen ribbon issue corrected, I may pick one up as well. Actually, I'd love the Hobo X DNA Ultem version.

I was literally just looking into buying the reuleaux rx200. I'll be waiting patiently to read your thoughts on the device. And yes I have a secret crush on that ultem hobo x.....shhhh don't tell my wife.

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[Mr.Mann]

Hahaha! Wow I thought it was just my sig150 that did the door thing, I HATED that door with a passion. I could cough and it would fall off.

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No it was not just yours. I was happy to get rid of that thing! It just makes no sense to me how something so rudimentary can be so difficult to get right. I mean, they can make all these boards with temperature regulation and such, but they can't find appropriate magnets?

 

[jhhollier]

I was literally just looking into buying the reuleaux rx200. I'll be waiting patiently to read your thoughts on the device. And yes I have a secret crush on that ultem hobo x.....shhhh don't tell my wife.

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It should be in Monday. I'll give it a few days of use and let you know what I think. I actually went with the White and Aqua version cause I wanted a different look. For that price if I like it I may buy the black version as well.

 

[Uncletattoowhat]

It should be in Monday. I'll give it a few days of use and let you know what I think. I actually went with the White and Aqua version cause I wanted a different look. For that price if I like it I may buy the black version as well.

I was also leaning toward the rx200 but 0.1 minimum in power mode wasn't quite there. Although I COULD just run all stainless fused Claptons and use it in TC mode

 

[Mr.Mann]

...a better vape than the NarDA

Vaping on the NarDA right now and I just wanted to point out, as I marvel at the flavor on this thing, that I don't think the Hobo 3.1 is better for flavor, just that the vape itself is more to my liking. For "vape", that is encompassing vapor, airflow and flavor. If just talking about flavor though, well, c'mon now! The flavor on this thing is silly.

Having said that, I do have a problem with this atty and I could use the help of friends here. I hate having to admit this, but, when I get this think coiled and wick'd up, the initial vape is superb and some of the best flavor ever, but for whatever reason, I end up getting dry hits. And I don't mean "dry hits" as in, the wicks are dry type dry hits, I mean the wicks are wet but they are not supplying the coil fast enough. I can't for the life of me understand it either. I've tried dual-tail wicks and split-tail wicks for single coils. In both situations this happens when I try and crank up the watts on a certain builds that are lower ohms (like below .4Ω and mostly with 24 and 22 gauge). If I keep the watts minimal and the resistance higher, it is fine, but then the overall vape gets less amazing (though still better than most).

I think my issue is literally working around those screws. If I could say there was one con to this atty, it wouldn't be the airflow because that's more preference than anything, but these screws, coupled with having to drop the coil, makes the wicking kind of a pain. Any advice? Even if you don't have the atty, maybe you can say something that can make my issue get resolved.

 

[HeiSINberg]

Vaping on the NarDA right now and I just wanted to point out, as I marvel at the flavor on this thing, that I don't think the Hobo 3.1 is better for flavor, just that the vape itself is more to my liking. For "vape", that is encompassing vapor, airflow and flavor. If just talking about flavor though, well, c'mon now! [emoji23] The flavor on this thing is silly.

Having said that, I do have a problem with this atty and I could use the help of friends here. I hate having to admit this, but, when I get this think coiled and wick'd up, the initial vape is superb and some of the best flavor ever, but for whatever reason, I end up getting dry hits. And I don't mean "dry hits" as in, the wicks are dry type dry hits, I mean the wicks are wet but they are not supplying the coil fast enough. I can't for the life of me understand it either. I've tried dual-tail wicks and split-tail wicks for single coils. In both situations this happens when I try and crank up the watts on a certain builds that are lower ohms (like below .4Ω and mostly with 24 and 22 gauge). If I keep the watts minimal the resistance higher, it is fine, but then overall vape gets less amazing (though still better than most).

I think my issue is literally working around those screws. If I could say there was one con to this atty, it wouldn't be the airflow because that's more preference than anything, but these screws, coupled with having to drop the coil, makes the wicking kind of a pain. Any advice?

Hmm, this is strange, I will admit I wish those screws weren't where they are or as big as they were cause sometimes they choke the wick. But, the coil doesn't need to be as low as some would think, mine is half and half, if you look through the air holes you only see the bottom half of it instead of the whole coil itself then when I wick I normally do the split wick tail thing into the 4 sections. I looked at Naregs build advice on Facebook. I'm sure you seen them as well and are probably building the same as me which is why I'm so perplexed by this lol I'm not sure what to think.

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[Mr.Mann]

Hmm, this is strange, I will admit I wish those screws weren't where they are or as big as they were cause sometimes they choke the wick. But, the coil doesn't need to be as low as some would think, mine is half and half, if you look through the air holes you only see the bottom half of it instead of the whole coil itself then when I wick I normally do the split wick tail thing into the 4 sections. I looked at Naregs build advice on Facebook. I'm sure you seen them as well and are probably building the same as me which is why I'm so perplexed by this lol I'm not sure what to think.

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Hmm...You know...yeah, I think I may be pushing my coil too low. Mine is such that the top of the airflow columns are directly in line with the top of the coil, so I can't look through the slots and see the bottom of the coil. I wonder if my borderline OCD has bit me in the .... here? I never thought to keep the coil up a tad bit higher. I should go check on his build again.

 

[jhhollier]

I agree with H, my coil isn't as low as I've seen in the pics people have been posting in the FB group. I know some are concerned about possibly melting the DT but I have not had that happen. My first build I only saw the bottom of the coil through the airflow slots.

As for wicking, I don't do like Nareg and you guys do and use two smaller wicks. I just wick like normal and cut the tails in two, push each half to the side of the screw. Wicks perfectly.

ETA: it's the same principle as two smaller wicks but I find it's more convenient my way.

 

[Mr.Mann]

I agree with H, my coil isn't as low as I've seen in the pics people have been posting in the FB group. I know some are concerned about possibly melting the DT but I have not had that happen. My first build I only saw the bottom of the coil through the airflow slots.

As for wicking, I don't do like Nareg and you guys do and use two smaller wicks. I just wick like normal and cut the tails in two, push each half to the side of the screw. Wicks perfectly.

I had the issue with dual-tail (normal) wicking too and split-tail wicks.

What is the largest ID you all are using for single coils? Mine was a 3.2 mm 4 wrap of 22 gauge coming out at .25Ω. Gonna rebuild it and try something new...well, not "new", but gonna try to approach it differently than I have been for single-coils (duals work out fine for me, but I don't particularly like doing them on this now).

Also, what resistance and watts?

 

[HeiSINberg]

I had the issue with dual-tail (normal) wicking too and split-tail wicks.

What is the largest ID you all are using for single coils? Mine was a 3.2 mm 4 wrap of 22 gauge coming out at .25Ω. Gonna rebuild it and try something new...well, not "new", but gonna try to approach it differently than I have been for single-coils (duals work out fine for me, but I don't particularly like doing them on this now).

Also, what resistance and watts?

The build I have now, which I just built yesterday was around a 7/64 drill bit 7 wraps 24g kanthal around .65 ohms I believe (sorry I'm in bed and my vape gear is downstairs or I would know the exact numbers) and 30 watts. I have yet to take the nar anything under .50 ohms. Not that I don't want too but I just haven't yet, I feel like the higher ohms serves it better imo.

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[Mr.Mann]

The build I have now, which I just built yesterday was around a 7/64 drill bit 7 wraps 24g kanthal around .65 ohms I believe (sorry I'm in bed and my vape gear is downstairs or I would know the exact numbers) and 30 watts. I have yet to take the nar anything under .50 ohms. Not that I don't want too but I just haven't yet, I feel like the higher ohms serves it better imo.

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Hmm...that's kinda funny because I don't have any problems at 30 watts, no matter the resistance. Anyway, it's just one of those things for me right now that, luckily, I don' t need to stress over since the Hobo is working so very nicely for me on all fronts--wicking, air, flavor, ease of build, dual-coils, higher power, yadda yadda yadda.

Oh well, thank for the reassurance that it is just me.

 

[jhhollier]

Mines almost identical to H. 3mm ID, 24g, .6 ohm usually vape it at 36W.

 

[Mr.Mann]

Mines almost identical to H. 3mm ID, 24g, .6 ohm usually vape it at 36W.

This really makes me feel better! I wonder if that's an 'optimal' range with this atty (for regular coils) because that type coil--resistance/watts--works fine for me; it's an issue when the watts go up (like above 50) and the resistance goes low (like below .4Ω).

 

[jhhollier]

I'll probably stay at or above .5 with the NarDA. Honestly with regulated mods I don't see the point in building much lower. I'd rather build higher and throw watts at the build. Just what works for me.