Rebuild Upgraded Kanger Dual Coil to a Single Vertical Coil

[leekeylee]

May just have to try this....The coils that came with my Aerotank mini were great....the replacements, no so much

I don't have an ohm reader, but would a Multi-meter work for now ? test before or after burn in ?

Should my 650mah battery work with it fine ?

As for the wires of the coil, do you have a better pic on how/where the go (+/-)....or is it pretty self explanatory ? I've torn them apart before just to "see whats in them" and can't remember the coil wire placement off-hand.

Thanks.
Wanting to learn.

I think Licenced Luny has answered your questions with good explination.

I would totally agree that you need to be save and an ohm's reader is a must BEFORE you press the fire button on your battery when you have the coil in place. The one I pictured I got from fleebay for a few £ so they are not expensive and a must if you are re-building coils.

When you mentioned test before or after burning, If you are "Pre-Wicking" the coil like I have DO NOT press the fire button when the coil and wick is in place as the cotton is dry and will burn. If you are going to put the coil in place before wicking then you can give it a dry burn or two to make sure the coil is heating up correctly. Being a micro coil as all the wraps are touching then the coil should glow from the inside outwards.

Sorry in my post I probably was not clear when I say burning the coil I meant take the coil of the drill bit squeeze the coils together and then use something like a little gas hand held tourch burner to "tourch" the coil so it glows nice and red, this then keeps the all the wraps of the coil together to make a nice tight touching micro coil.

As for the + and - legs. When I build the coil, I make the bottom leg smaller than the top leg, the bottom leg is the one that goes through the rubber insulater and the top leg which is longer goes on the oustide of the rubber insulater.

This picture might be more clear



finally as Licensed Luny mentioned re the 28 gauge kanthal, yes it may take a second or two longer to heat up due to the wire being quite thick. I just use 28 gauge because it is easy to work with and I have about 20 meters of the stuff but their is nothing saying you have to use this gauge kanthal.

If you are proficient in building the horizontal coils using whatever kanthal or wire you are used to then use whatever you like to get the coil to the resistance that you like. I do have some 30 gauge kicking around which is thinner so I am going to try my next coils with this.

It's all good fun and worth a play as It can save you pennies and in my opinion give you a better vape but it is all trial and error to get what suits your needs.

Have fun but please BE SAFE as an exploding battery can cause loss of limbs or life

 

[Skunkworkx]

Thanks for the info LL and Lee

 

[nopoison]

Hi All,

**** UPDATE 24/10/2014 - Once you have read how I do this please read my update post #13 ****


Firstly an apology for the quality of some of the images below as it is using my crappy samsung phone camera. Also I have put this on a few posts as I can only attach five images at a time.

Well I received my EMOW Mega yesterday for my Istick, looks great btw in silver on a silver istick

View attachment 383606

The thing is with my other Kanger Protanks and the old sytle coils I would re-build them to save a few pennies and because I don't like silica I would wick with Muji Japanese Cotton but this new tank comes with the new upgraded enclosed dual coils.

From what I have read some people say that they cannot be re-built and others say they can. Well they can and it is an easy job. The hardest part was getting the chimney off without damaging it but I have a nice trick for that I will show you below.

So now I was thinking as I have a good airflow control ring on this new tank and everyone seems to be raving about the aspire BVC I thought why not let's build a vertical coil. So here is how I have done it.

You totally inspired me to see what I could figure out with rebuilding these heads. I was turned off after my first try a while ago when I couldnt get the chimney off without breaking it and seeing how you popped it out from the inside is what got me.

So anyway, I did a rebuild with a horizontal coil just like I have been doing with the Evod/Protank 1 heads for the last year. The trick was finding out that the sleeve with the factory holes in it removes quite easily. After building the coil exactly like the Evod I then put the sleeve back on but not all the way down. Pushed it just far enough to sit on top of my wick exactly like the chimney on the Evod does. Also, turned the holes so they are totally blocked. So even though the sleeve now sticks up the chimney still fit inside with the rubber seal. Also the tank side screws down inside the sleeve perfectly. So far it is working GREAT!!You can see from the pic below how it looks. If it proves to last and not leak I may do a more in depth pictorial but hopefully you get the idea with the pic.
Thanks for your excellent work and tutorial!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[leekeylee]

You totally inspired me to see what I could figure out with rebuilding these heads. I was turned off after my first try a while ago when I couldnt get the chimney off without breaking it and seeing how you popped it out from the inside is what got me.

So anyway, I did a rebuild with a horizontal coil just like I have been doing with the Evod/Protank 1 heads for the last year. The trick was finding out that the sleeve with the factory holes in it removes quite easily. After building the coil exactly like the Evod I then put the sleeve back on but not all the way down. Pushed it just far enough to sit on top of my wick exactly like the chimney on the Evod does. Also, turned the holes so they are totally blocked. So even though the sleeve now sticks up the chimney still fit inside with the rubber seal. Also the tank side screws down inside the sleeve perfectly. So far it is working GREAT!!You can see from the pic below how it looks. If it proves to last and not leak I may do a more in depth pictorial but hopefully you get the idea with the pic.
Thanks for your excellent work and tutorial!!!!!!!!!!!!

Nice job and a very interesting Idea I will have to give that a go with a horizontal coil to see how it performs against the vertical builds I have been doing.

 

[gzin44]

Well I will keep trying I failed on first one reads 0.0 ohms lol. I have the horizontal down but I would like to get these down now

well after closer inspection I didnt clip the wire good enough now it reads 1.4 ohms 9 wraps of 28ga on 1/16th drill bit.

 

[leekeylee]

Well I will keep trying I failed on first one reads 0.0 ohms lol. I have the horizontal down but I would like to get these down now

well after closer inspection I didnt clip the wire good enough now it reads 1.4 ohms 9 wraps of 28ga on 1/16th drill bit.

Instead of clipping the legs after the grommet and pin are in place I "twist" them off. I saw this on rip Trippers video on how to build a micro coil

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xrvwOf13U-s

It is about 5 minutes into the video

 

[Justabrewer]

Do both leads go on the outside of the grommet?

 

[Licensed Luny]

Do both leads go on the outside of the grommet?

No, they don't. If both are on the same side of the grommet your battery can't send current through the coil to heat it up and make tasty vapor.

DISCLAIMER: I think I understand basic circuits well enough, but I'm still new to vaping. Please do speak/post up if there's something incorrect in my explanation below!


Remember, current flows in a closed loop. We want current to flow in a path from the positive side of the battery, through the coil, and then back to the negative side of the battery. When current flows through the length of resistance wire wound up into a coil, the wire heats up enough vaporize e-liquid.

The idea on these heads is that one leg of the coil (one lead/side) goes outside the pin grommet and the other leg goes inside. The intact grommet acts as an electrical insulator; current shouldn't flow through that grommet. The grommet and center pin also provide physical pressure to keep each leg pressed against the metal piece to which it's meant to connect.

The negative side will be the leg/lead of the coil outside the grommet. This leg on the outside connects to the frame of the cup, ...
which in turn connects to the body of your tank through the threads where the head screws into the base, ...
which in turn connects to the negative side of your battery through the threads where your tank screws onto the battery/mod.

The positive side will be the leg/lead of the coil inside the grommet. This leg gets connected to the little metal center pin when you push that inside the grommet from the bottom. The tip/head of that center metal pin connects to the center post, either directly to the post on your battery for eGo-threaded devices or indirectly through the insulated structure at the base of a tank using the smaller 510 threads. That inside, center pin of your battery/mod is the positive side of your battery. It's sometimes on a spring that will give a bit under pressure, and the ones I've seen often look to be made of a metal with more of a yellow tint than the metal on the rest of the device.

Putting both legs/leads on the same side of the grommet would defeat the purpose, no matter what kind of coil(s) you built inside the head.


Now, for this specific case of a vertical coil, you want the leg coming off the top of the coil to be outside the grommet and the leg coming off the bottom of the coil to be inside the grommet. Remember that the body of the core, the cup, is going to be connected to the negative side of your battery. The leg coming off the top of the vertical coil is going to have a lot more physical space where it could touch the cup, so set that one up to be the negative lead anyway. The leg coming off the bottom of the vertical coil has a shorter and straighter path down towards the center of the intended arrangement, so it's better suited to be the positive lead closest to center.


I hope this helps. I don't like being told what to do without at least being given the opportunity to understand why I'm doing it that way, so I have trouble writing instructions without including the reasoning. (No, fans of TL;DR don't often enjoy my style, but by now they're not reading anymore anyway. Neener neener!)

Cheers & Good luck!

 

[Justabrewer]

Thanks for the great response, I tried the build as stated above but had no luck the first time, will try again soon, maybe part of the coil was touching inside and was shorting plus I ran cotton through the coil instead around. Again thanks will try in the a.m. Cheers

 

[leekeylee]

Great job,really good and great help for me!

My pleasure, If you have any questions about the build please feel free to ask

 

[leekeylee]

Thanks for the great response, I tried the build as stated above but had no luck the first time, will try again soon, maybe part of the coil was touching inside and was shorting plus I ran cotton through the coil instead around. Again thanks will try in the a.m. Cheers

It is a bit of trial and error on getting this right but once you have mastered it then it becomes very easy to do and takes no time at all. Re the cotton, you don't want the cotton going through the coil for a vertical build you need it going around the coil as you want the air flow to come up through the coil. You will also need quite a bit of cotton, it needs to be packed in quite tight unlike a normal horizontal coil where you thread the cotton through the coil.

If you have any questions please feel free to ask

 

[Mogar]

When you place the coil and cotton into the cup do you add a layer under the coil so it does not some in contact with the cup?

 

[leekeylee]

When you place the coil and cotton into the cup do you add a layer under the coil so it does not some in contact with the cup?

Hi mogar

No I don't add any additional cotton into the cup. When I wrap the cotton around the coil I make sure there is enough cotton around the coil so it is quite a tight fit into the cup in my pictures you should see that only the two legs are protruding out from the bottom of all the cotton and you should not get any shorts.

you don't want anything obstructing the airflow from the bottom and up through the coil.

 

[thomthom]

Great post! Ok.. I know I said I'd give up on this whole rebuild thing, I'll give it one more shot haha

 

[leekeylee]

Great post! Ok.. I know I said I'd give up on this whole rebuild thing, I'll give it one more shot haha

Go for it turning the kanger coils into BVC is such a better vape than stock coils. I am suprised Kanger have not done their own BVC like aspire have

 

[Katya]

I am suprised Kanger have not done their own BVC like aspire have

Maybe they will soon! After all, Kanger invented the vertical coil (in KR808 cartomizers). They keep making new coils all the time.

 

[caroloto]

Maybe they will soon! After all, Kanger invented the vertical coil (in KR808 cartomizers). They keep making new coils all the time.

I am really excited about this, can't wait till they are available and hoping the cost is reasonable. I been holding back on getting a kayfun which I was about to purchase a few weeks ago when I saw that these were coming out. Does anyone know about when these will be released?

 

[Sunburst]

Any tips for using non-KGD style wicks? I have rayon, boiled cotton balls and boiled PnC yarn to work with. I haven't tried specifically in the Kanger heads, but my first few attempts of rebuilding Nautilus coils have been absolute failures in wicking.

BTW, I use a 7mm deepwell socket to put my coil into stem down to knock it out with a drill bit. That's easiest for me. It also makes a handy working area.

 

[leekeylee]

Any tips for using non-KGD style wicks? I have rayon, boiled cotton balls and boiled PnC yarn to work with. I haven't tried specifically in the Kanger heads, but my first few attempts of rebuilding Nautilus coils have been absolute failures in wicking.

BTW, I use a 7mm deepwell socket to put my coil into stem down to knock it out with a drill bit. That's easiest for me. It also makes a handy working area.

Before I started using KGD in the old style kanger heads I would use cotton wool balls. Using these I found it easiest to mount the coil in the cup before wicking and then add the cotton after around the coil. I found that I had to use a lot of cotton packed very tight around the coil.

Hope this helps

 

[Sunburst]

Thanks, I'll give that a shot next time, provided I don't find KGD or something similiar before I rebuild again.

I was digging through the forum and found this.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/tips-tricks/532365-kanger-coil-vertical-build-video.html

So, I made a 2mm ID 1.3 ohm standard coil and it works like a boss. Chain vape-able at 16W, flavor, vapor and airflow are fantastic.

Then I tried on an Aspire BVC. Used a 3mm mandrel, 5/4 wrap macro-coil and it fluctuates between .9 and 1.0 on my Sig. The trick that I saw in another thread about the inner cotton was to remove the cup from the coil head. I left the tails long and routed them both out the same slot, wrapped them carefully around the cup and used a 5mm socket and c-clamp to press it back together. If I were the type who loved fluctuations in text formatting, this is where I'd start talking in caps at 36pt. It still will flood a tiny bit if you let it sit too long. I don't mind putting it in my stand upside down. But the vape. The vape, man. It's unbelievable. It'll chain vape at 20W with an amount of flavor that I'm not sure I like. Lol, it's intense. Makes me nervous about the Aqua v2 and Erl clones coming in tomorrow's vapemail.

Once I get my area organized, and figure out the overhead cam business, I'll make some videos.

Thanks again for your thread and reply.