Rebuilding protank mini coils
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juice spitting is common, most throw a small "flavor wick" on top to stop it.
rattling sounds? it might be the sounds of a fresh coil your not used to. stock heads come with ALOT of stuffed wick so it A) doesnt spit and B) muffles the coil noises
rattling sounds? it might be the sounds of a fresh coil your not used to. stock heads come with ALOT of stuffed wick so it A) doesnt spit and B) muffles the coil noises
I just started rebuilding protank coils and on my ohm meter they come in at 1.5-2.2ohms. After trying 2 of the rebuilt coils today the ohms keep changing as in dropping to 1.0 and below 
Any suggestions?
Any suggestions?I just started rebuilding protank coils and on my ohm meter they come in at 1.5-2.2ohms. After trying 2 of the rebuilt coils today the ohms keep changing as in dropping to 1.0 and below
Have you rechecked them on your meter? if they check out then check your battery, see if your center post has moved. May be a bad contact on battery giving false reading. Take a small screwdriver and work it up a little.
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When they jump around like that I find almost always the coils are not centered properly in the middle. also run your finger around the bottom where you clips the ends of the coil and make sure you cannot feel and wire sticking out. If a tiny end and you can't cut it close enough bend it under the rubber insulator. CHEERS!
Rebuild the coil, the key is when you winding the wire on the wicks, you should tightly wind wire on wicks, if not like this, easily get burning smell, as the sounds i like them, showing heating element working.
I also found, ecokwool a little bit sticker than normal round wicks, so when i build coils i like to use them.
I also found, ecokwool a little bit sticker than normal round wicks, so when i build coils i like to use them.
Kanger coils are always a little hassle to rebuild, especially if we are talking about the mini versions of the pt3 or aerotank because the head sits right on the battery connector and the lower pin wants to rotate, twisting the coils you made with so much care.
I am with wheelie... Check the bottom. 99% sure there is a izzy tiny leg sticking out... Probably between the bottom insulator and the bottom pin. If needed, lift the pin one or two millimeters, cut the leg flush with the inside of the insulator and reinsert the pin carefully. What happens is like I said, as you tighten down the head, the friction on the bottom pin will make it rotate slightly. If there is a leg sticking out, it will jam on the pin and the whole coil assembly will start to twist changing the resistance and even shorting out.
Good luck
Regards
Tony
Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk
I am with wheelie... Check the bottom. 99% sure there is a izzy tiny leg sticking out... Probably between the bottom insulator and the bottom pin. If needed, lift the pin one or two millimeters, cut the leg flush with the inside of the insulator and reinsert the pin carefully. What happens is like I said, as you tighten down the head, the friction on the bottom pin will make it rotate slightly. If there is a leg sticking out, it will jam on the pin and the whole coil assembly will start to twist changing the resistance and even shorting out.
Good luck
Regards
Tony
Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk
Thanks for all your help. I figured it out 
Can someone explain to me why the thinner gauge kanthal has higher resistance? I would logically think the fatter wire would be more resistant.
Can someone explain to me why the thinner gauge kanthal has higher resistance? I would logically think the fatter wire would be more resistant.
Thanks for all your help. I figured it out
Hi RIMP,
Think of kanthal as a garden hose and the electricity from the battery as water. The larger the hose, the less resistance on the flow of water. A smaller diameter hose creates higher resistance on the flow of water.
Just to add my experience in (only been a vapour for about 6 weeks)
I build Micro coils, 28 awg kanthal about 9 times around a 1.5mm drill bit, take the coils off, squuze gently with pliers so all the coils are touching but not overlapping, heat until coil glows nicely. You will find that the all the twists are touching and it stays in place. I put it back on the drill bit make sure the legs are nice and straight and then put in to my t3s head, the drill bit sits nicely in the cut outs of the head so easy to get the rubber gromet and pin in without too much movement.
When trimming the legs I twist them of I do not cut them I find this gets them closer than you can when cutting them so less chance of shorts.
I then wick with natural organic cotton, getting the correct amount of cotton is something that takes a little practice, too much and it strangles the flow, too little and it floods.
I was having huge problems with stock coils on the t3s heads so started to do this myself and it works a treat. With the cotton I find the flavour better and becuase it expands soo much when wet no need for a flavour wick on top.
Hope it helps
I build Micro coils, 28 awg kanthal about 9 times around a 1.5mm drill bit, take the coils off, squuze gently with pliers so all the coils are touching but not overlapping, heat until coil glows nicely. You will find that the all the twists are touching and it stays in place. I put it back on the drill bit make sure the legs are nice and straight and then put in to my t3s head, the drill bit sits nicely in the cut outs of the head so easy to get the rubber gromet and pin in without too much movement.
When trimming the legs I twist them of I do not cut them I find this gets them closer than you can when cutting them so less chance of shorts.
I then wick with natural organic cotton, getting the correct amount of cotton is something that takes a little practice, too much and it strangles the flow, too little and it floods.
I was having huge problems with stock coils on the t3s heads so started to do this myself and it works a treat. With the cotton I find the flavour better and becuase it expands soo much when wet no need for a flavour wick on top.
Hope it helps
Just to take the (very good) garden hose analogy and expand on it:
Electricity is the flow of electrons from one point to another along a circuit. In this case your circuit is the battery and coil... From the negative terminal of your battery through the coil to the battery's positive terminal. At this point, I could go on about the difference between electron flow and conventional current but I won't... It's a bit tricky to explain in a first lesson.
Electrons move from atom to atom and the more atoms there are that are efficient at carrying current, (such as a copper atom in traditional copper wire) the more electrons that can potentially move through that circuit. So bigger wire means, more atoms, which in turn means less resistance.
[EDIT]should you ever find yourself of a mind to learn about the fundamentals of electronics, I would recommend a book that can be had for less than ten bucks including shipping from most outlets..
"There are no Electrons: Electronics for Earthlings" by Kenn Amdahl
Also you can find an old copy of Grob's for SUPER cheap. It's not really critical to have the latest edition. Last time I checked you can get them for 3 bucks on Amazon with free shipping in some cases. (new editions are over 100 dollars)
Electricity is the flow of electrons from one point to another along a circuit. In this case your circuit is the battery and coil... From the negative terminal of your battery through the coil to the battery's positive terminal. At this point, I could go on about the difference between electron flow and conventional current but I won't... It's a bit tricky to explain in a first lesson.
Electrons move from atom to atom and the more atoms there are that are efficient at carrying current, (such as a copper atom in traditional copper wire) the more electrons that can potentially move through that circuit. So bigger wire means, more atoms, which in turn means less resistance.
[EDIT]should you ever find yourself of a mind to learn about the fundamentals of electronics, I would recommend a book that can be had for less than ten bucks including shipping from most outlets..
"There are no Electrons: Electronics for Earthlings" by Kenn Amdahl
Also you can find an old copy of Grob's for SUPER cheap. It's not really critical to have the latest edition. Last time I checked you can get them for 3 bucks on Amazon with free shipping in some cases. (new editions are over 100 dollars)
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Here are some videos for those of you working with Kanger coils.
* How to Clean & Dry Burn... Kanger ProTank II & Mini ProTank II, Protank 2 Tutorial
* Mini Protank Micro Coil Rebuild
* How to Clean & Dry Burn... Kanger ProTank II & Mini ProTank II, Protank 2 Tutorial
* Mini Protank Micro Coil Rebuild
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