Recommend me an RBA?

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t8kiteasy

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Satava

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Well since the OP is thinking of a bigger mod, I'll throw in my $0.02

The Vamo is probably the best lower priced unit out there for durability and functionality. If you do get one, do yourself a favor and get it in stainless steel. I got mine from DiscountVapers.com. The stainless is a lot more resilient to scratches and even if it does take a little beating you can buff it out unlike the other finishes available. Also it matches most of the lower priced rebuildables.

The Natural is one of the less expensive mechanical mods. It's not telescopic so the sides are nice and smooth, you just unscrew a small section and put it aside to go into short mode, 18650 vs 18350. It's compatible with the same batteries that a Vamo uses. It takes more monkeying to get set up with the adjustable pins to hold the battery firmly etc. A definite go-to for low ohm vaping and for pulsing out coils on stainless.

For 18350 batteries (Short Mode on either device) Go with AW IMR (700mah) or eFest IMR (800mah) batteries. I got mine on GotVapes.com but RTD sells them also. With the newsletter discount they ended up similarly priced.

For 18650 batteries (Long Mode on either device) Go with the Panasonic Button-Top Hybrid (2250mah) batteries. They hold a bit more capacity than AW/eFest and still allow for 10 amps of discharge safely. Also available on GotVapes.com and also on RTD.

For a charger, go with a NiteCore i2, available on both GotVapes and RTD. This charger is very reliable.

For a Rebuildable Dripper get yourself an IGO-L to go with the Vamo/Natural. It's Stainless Steel and matches nicely although the diameter is slightly smaller.

If you'd like to venture into genesis vaping, go ahead and get yourself an AGA-T2 as well. Also Stainless, this one has the same diameter as both devices however.

For Wick, go with #500 stainless mesh or the silica wick available for 9.95 per 10ft at RTD.

For Wire, go to TemcoIndustrialPower.com and get yourself 32awg kanthal a-1 for an ego+IGO-S, 30awg kanthal a-1 for a Vamo, or 28awg kanthal a-1 for the Natural.

Best of luck!
 

ashechtman

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Awesome, thanks. I decided I want a rebuildable atomizer with stainless mesh, no silica. I was reading about the dangers of silica inhalation so that scared me away from silica wicks. So for a new battery it sounds like the vamo is the next best thing besides the provari, and for a much lower price. As for an RBA, I'll either go with the hornet, igo-l or aga-t2. Can i use a stainless mesh with all three of these?
 

Satava

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Awesome, thanks. I decided I want a rebuildable atomizer with stainless mesh, no silica. I was reading about the dangers of silica inhalation so that scared me away from silica wicks. So for a new battery it sounds like the vamo is the next best thing besides the provari, and for a much lower price. As for an RBA, I'll either go with the hornet, igo-l or aga-t2. Can i use a stainless mesh with all three of these?

The AGA-T works its best with stainless set up as a genesis imo, but you can set it up as a dripper/tipper and horizontally mount a stainless wick.

The IGO-L also works with stainless as it's outer diameter of 19mm gives you some room to play.

The hornet looks a little on the small side and might make stainless wicking a troublesome task. You might have to do a vertical wick in that one.

Of all three I'd honestly get the AGA-T2 and the IGO-L to go with the Vamo. The two put together could almost be bought twice (4 total atomizers) for the similar price as a single hornet. The AGA runs about $25-30 and the IGO runs about $15-20 depending on the site you go to.

If you do decide on the AGA and IGO the "Horn" drip tip and the "Heatsink" drip tip both look great on both device caps.
 

scrappy

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Someone mentioned earlier that if you get a vamo, get the ss version. That's great advice. The finish on my zmax wore off in less than a month and since then I'll only buy ss mods.

I'd pass on the hornet too. Take a good look at the pictures of it disassembled. There's no drip well, the seal from the cap creates the well. So when you pull the cap off, if there's any juice in there you're going to get juicy fingers. Secondly, it's tough building a coil on a little atomizer. I had the A7 and I've got a phoenix and an igo-s, and they're both small and harder to work with. The phoenix is tough because of it's deep skinny juice well, the A7 has the same problem but it's also got a air channel in the center that you have to work around, and the igo-s because the posts are close together.

The igo-l has a shallow but wide well, but there's a lip around it so if there's a little juice in there it's not going to dribble all over the sides. As a first time rba user the igo-l's extra real estate will make things easier for you. Just for reference here's what the vamo and natural look like with an igo-l. Both are in 18350 mode. The second pic is after I sanded down the post so the atty sits flush.
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This first pic is the igo-s. Take a look at how shallow the juice well is. I get juice on my fingers all the time with this little guy. The second pic is of the igo-l.
8520486833_8130ed7faa.jpg

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Jerms

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Ok, so if i went with the igo-l, how does ss mesh wick compare to silica? In terms of flavor and vapor production.

That's debatable and a personal preference thing. I think most who have given QUALITY silica and mesh an honest try find they both do great, but may prefer one over the other. What's not debatable is which is easier. Ss Mesh needs to be rolled and oxidized, and you need to deal with shorts and hotspots. Much bigger learning curve than with silica. And if your using an eGo, I say definately put off SS mesh until you get an APV, the shorts that will happen will ruin your eGo.

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Jerms

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I've been reading into the dangers of inhaling silica fibers and it has me VERY worried, considering silica wicks are in my cisco attys that i've been using and if i decide to get an igo-l and use a silica wick. What's everyones take on that matter?

People have been using silica wick systems for the last 10 years that ecigs have been available, and it hasn't caused problems. Maybe we'll find out in another 10 years that it does cause problems with very long term exposure. We also might find out the flavorings we use in eliquid cause problems 20 years down the line or the SS mesh releases chemicals that turn out to be dangerous with long-term exposure. Personally I have zero concern about inhaling silica fibers, I've never found traces of fibers in my drip tips or screens I've put in the drip tip. Maybe they are there but too small to see, but the possibility is so low on my list of things to worry about I don't bat an eye.


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scrappy

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Ok, so if i went with the igo-l, how does ss mesh wick compare to silica? In terms of flavor and vapor production.
There's not much difference betweent them in terms of flavor and vapor production. I do think that when people do all the crazy dual set-ups that silica can wick faster, but that's just a hunch and I've never tested it out. One advantage to silica that ss has is that you can easily change flavors. Just vape whatever you have in there till its gone then change flavors. You can do a dry burn before changing if you want to get rid of any stubborn flavors.

Ss isn't much harder to work with than silica. A lot of people don't even oxidize anymore. I don't. I just boil the ss sheet then I first get it to get rid of any nastiness on it. Once you learn to make the wick fit loosely in the coil the rest is a cakewalk because you can work out a hotspot or short just by moving the wick or kanthal around. Also, the wicks are so small in these drippers that even a small sheet of ss will last a long while.
 

Jerms

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Once you learn to make the wick fit loosely in the coil the rest is a cakewalk because you can work out a hotspot or short just by moving the wick or kanthal around.

This is true, but not an option since he'll be using an eGo. I think my VAMO won't work for that either, just mechanical mods. I may be wrong on that so correct me if I am.

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scrappy

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This is true, but not an option since he'll be using an eGo. I think my VAMO won't work for that either, just mechanical mods. I may be wrong on that so correct me if I am.

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Oh I thought he said he was going to get a new device too. I agree though, don't fiddle with this stuff on your ego. I don't work out shorts and hotspots with my vamo. You can if you want, you just cant pulse very long. It's a little harder if you're right at the 1.2 ohm cut-off. But a mech mod is easier. If I have a short or hotspot I just keep twisting my wick and give it another go, but I'm not trying to pulse through any of those problems. I'm pushing the button long enough to see if the problem is gone. Any problems usually go away after the 4th or 5th twist. If its an especially tough hotspot then I'll even out the coils a bit, but I really don't like moving them much.
 

JD1

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Thanks for the input on silica, still worried though. After much researching it seems like bamboo yarn is the safest and most effective. I may go with that.

I use cotton but only because I like it. If I liked silica better I'd use it but only the high quality stuff. But cotton or silica don't seem to work well in the tank systems designed for ss unless it has a really large wick hole. I'd suggest something that's designed to work with silica and then cotton, bamboo, or hemp should be just as good or better.
 

guppy

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Great feedback so far everyone, keep em coming! I've been watching some videos of the hornet, it looks insane, that things putting out crazyyyy vapor

Remember, the vapor productions is determined by the build and not the rba. The better rba's just make it easier to build (imo). I have a dual coil build on my $17 A7 and it compares to my dual coil build on my nimbus.
 
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