Recommendations for a mech mod? under $50

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Ablonz

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I would recommend a regulated vv/vw mod that is about $50 as the Subtank with a Mech mod would hinder performance due to voltage drop. Sure some people use them but to get a constant vape out of it, regulated box mod that runs 30 watts and above should be efficient with the Subtank. Also, according to ohms calculator, a mech mod would fire it at 35 watts on a full charged battery which would possibly burn out the cotton on the coil if using the pre made ones.
 
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Bad Ninja

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I would recommend a regulated vv/vw mod that is about $50 as the Subtank with a Mech mod would hinder performance due to voltage drop. Sure some people use them but to get a constant vape out of it, regulated box mod that runs 30 watts and above should be efficient with the Subtank.

No. There is usually more voltage drop in a regulated device, you can just turn up the power to compensate.

Sub tanks also come with a .5 ohm coil.
Regulated device not needed.

Personally I would forego the sub tank, and get a decent RTA.
 

Ablonz

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No. There is usually more voltage drop in a regulated device, you can just turn up the power to compensate.

Sub tanks also come with a .5 ohm coil.
Regulated device not needed.

Personally I would forego the sub tank, and get a decent RTA.

Exactly, that is why I would recommend it. You can not compensate on the mech mod. I was not implying that it is needed, just that it enables the user to control it better. Just giving the OP options. As the OP stated, he already owns the Subtank, he just wants to be able to fire the .5 ohm coils that it has.
 
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One thing I wanted to mention since it seems like a lot of people are recommending mods with hybrid connectors like the SMPL/4Nine. These are amazing mods (My authentic copper SMPL comes with me everywhere I go these days), and I join them in highly recommending them, but almost without exception you should not use them with most of the current sub-ohm clearo tanks like the Atlantis or Subtank. Trust me when I say this - I vented a battery in my Praxis trying to use the Atlantis. The pins on these are not typically adjustable, and while it might look like the pins stick out enough, under any pressure (say, from screwing down the atomizer or the cap to push up the battery), the pins can get pushed in enough where they can be shorted by the battery top. There are some "fixes" people have put out there, like removing the pin and filing down the outer thread part of the connection, but in general if you want to use one of the clearo-type subohm devices in a mech, you need to use it on one with a traditional (i.e. non-hybrid) top-cap. I bring this up because the OP specifically mentioned using a Subtank, and I don't want them buying a SMPL, as good as they are, to fire something that is going to vent a battery on them.
 

Bad Ninja

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Excellent post.
Everyone using Atlantis/Clearo/Subtank type atomizers should read this post and pay attention.

One thing I wanted to mention since it seems like a lot of people are recommending mods with hybrid connectors like the SMPL/4Nine. These are amazing mods (My authentic copper SMPL comes with me everywhere I go these days), and I join them in highly recommending them, but almost without exception you should not use them with most of the current sub-ohm clearo tanks like the Atlantis or Subtank. Trust me when I say this - I vented a battery in my Praxis trying to use the Atlantis. The pins on these are not typically adjustable, and while it might look like the pins stick out enough, under any pressure (say, from screwing down the atomizer or the cap to push up the battery), the pins can get pushed in enough where they can be shorted by the battery top. There are some "fixes" people have put out there, like removing the pin and filing down the outer thread part of the connection, but in general if you want to use one of the clearo-type subohm devices in a mech, you need to use it on one with a traditional (i.e. non-hybrid) top-cap. I bring this up because the OP specifically mentioned using a Subtank, and I don't want them buying a SMPL, as good as they are, to fire something that is going to vent a battery on them.
 

Altaire Versailles

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No. There is usually more voltage drop in a regulated device, you can just turn up the power to compensate.

Sub tanks also come with a .5 ohm coil.
Regulated device not needed.

Personally I would forego the sub tank, and get a decent RTA.

The subtank is an RTA as well as having stock coils, and from what Ive heard from every review it actually is a very good RTA. I havent used the rebuildable deck yet, but...
 

Altaire Versailles

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One thing I wanted to mention since it seems like a lot of people are recommending mods with hybrid connectors like the SMPL/4Nine. These are amazing mods (My authentic copper SMPL comes with me everywhere I go these days), and I join them in highly recommending them, but almost without exception you should not use them with most of the current sub-ohm clearo tanks like the Atlantis or Subtank. Trust me when I say this - I vented a battery in my Praxis trying to use the Atlantis. The pins on these are not typically adjustable, and while it might look like the pins stick out enough, under any pressure (say, from screwing down the atomizer or the cap to push up the battery), the pins can get pushed in enough where they can be shorted by the battery top. There are some "fixes" people have put out there, like removing the pin and filing down the outer thread part of the connection, but in general if you want to use one of the clearo-type subohm devices in a mech, you need to use it on one with a traditional (i.e. non-hybrid) top-cap. I bring this up because the OP specifically mentioned using a Subtank, and I don't want them buying a SMPL, as good as they are, to fire something that is going to vent a battery on them.

Noted. I just cant get next to the box mods. Ive vaped with a couple of them, love the vape, but Id rather a poorer vape than to use a box, I just dont like the way it feels or looks, its not comfortable to me. Anybody know a good regulated tube mod that will fire a 0.5 ohm coil? I really dont care to use a mech mod but it seems there arent any tube mods that will fire those coils.
 

edyle

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I like simple stuff, not too much crap and designs on it, preferably steel. just goes with anything you put on it. I used an SVD as my everyday mod now, I like the way it looks but even in 18350 mode its probably twice as long as the battery. But something along those lines

I think you'll like the m16 sentinel.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/3027/10005307/1800107
1800107-1.jpg

1800107-7.jpg

1800107-6.jpg


floating center pin
[I have the aluminium $10 one, and it's got a spring loaded center pin]
super short in 18350 mode.
Telescopic, so easy to adjust to different sizes and not get battery rattle.


I have a stingray and a nemesis; the way the threading is at the bottom there's the risk of scraping off the battery wrapper when inserting or removing the battery.


I like the chiyou and king mods (pretty much the same, different names); they use m21x1 threading which is the same as on my vamos and zmax.
this version below seems to be the latest tweak; the bottom cap has a spring button contact on top where it contacts the battery; I haven't been able to open the bottom cap so I haven't figured out how the switch contact actually operates on the inside, but it feels like an improvent over the earlier versions in that you can accidentally unscrew the pressbutton and end up loosing the spring when it pops out.
1451812-9.jpg

https://www.fasttech.com/p/1451812
 

Bad Ninja

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The subtank is an RTA as well as having stock coils, and from what Ive heard from every review it actually is a very good RTA. I havent used the rebuildable deck yet, but...

IMHO:
It's actually not a very good RTA. It tries to be too many things, while
Not Being excellent at any of them.
A Lemo, Billow, orchid all Work better. Even a Kayfun.
A Genny like the Kraken just blows the sub tank away but that comes with a whole other set of issues that you might not want to deal with.
 

Bad Ninja

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I think you'll like the m16 sentinel.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/3027/10005307/1800107
1800107-1.jpg

1800107-7.jpg

1800107-6.jpg





floating center pin
[I have the aluminium $10 one, and it's got a spring loaded center pin]
super short in 18350 mode.
Telescopic, so easy to adjust to different sizes and not get battery rattle.


I have a stingray and a nemesis; the way the threading is at the bottom there's the risk of scraping off the battery wrapper when inserting or removing the battery.


I like the chiyou and king mods (pretty much the same, different names); they use m21x1 threading which is the same as on my vamos and zmax.
this version below seems to be the latest tweak; the bottom cap has a spring button contact on top where it contacts the battery; I haven't been able to open the bottom cap so I haven't figured out how the switch contact actually operates on the inside, but it feels like an improvent over the earlier versions in that you can accidentally unscrew the pressbutton and end up loosing the spring when it pops out.
1451812-9.jpg

https://www.fasttech.com/p/1451812


Don't get THAT chi you!
That's a janky, non 1:1 version.
Check the reviews and discussions.

This one is better.

https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10005381/1508701-chi-you-mechanical-mod
See the switch? Just like the authentic.
 

edyle

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Don't get THAT chi you!
That's a janky, non 1:1 version.
Check the reviews and discussions.

This one is better.

https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10005381/1508701-chi-you-mechanical-mod
See the switch? Just like the authentic.

Yes, that switch is the switch I have on my first chiyou; you can unscrew the pressbutton, and it can turn during normal usage and come outward; if it unscrew all the way out while you're just vaping away not really paying attention the spring will pop out.

The new switch (and looks like its on the new king mod also)
1: does not unscrew out
2: also includes a spring loaded tension on the battery - something you don't get on bottom fired mechs

The new design uses that spring at the bottom to cater for battery length instead of an adjustment screw at the top.


1508701-3.jpg
 
Noted. I just cant get next to the box mods. Ive vaped with a couple of them, love the vape, but Id rather a poorer vape than to use a box, I just dont like the way it feels or looks, its not comfortable to me. Anybody know a good regulated tube mod that will fire a 0.5 ohm coil? I really dont care to use a mech mod but it seems there arent any tube mods that will fire those coils.

I hope you didn't take my warning about hybrid mods as a recommendation against mechs in general. Quite the opposite, I found that using a mech with my Atlantis was quite an enjoyable vape - I just had to learn the hard way that I needed to use something with a top cap and wanted to save you that particular experience. While hybrid adapters are the flavor of the month in the mech world, it seems, there are a ton of amazing mechs out there that aren't built around direct atty-to-battery connection that could be a great fit for you. There are even a few, like the Stingray X, that offer the best of both worlds - the SXK/Infinite clone, at least, comes with both a top cap and a hybrid cap.

On the regulated side, the problem you are going to run into is that, in an attempt to provide users more battery life, manufacturers have been moving away from tube regulated mods toward boxes pretty much universally. There are still a few tube mods on the market, but I'm not aware of any of them that will fire in the lower sub-ohm range. Hence, if you're set on a tube mod, and want to use a sub-ohm clearo tank, your best bet may indeed be a mech.
 

Bad Ninja

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Yes, that switch is the switch I have on my first chiyou; you can unscrew the pressbutton, and it can turn during normal usage and come outward; if it unscrew all the way out while you're just vaping away not really paying attention the spring will pop out.

The new switch (and looks like its on the new king mod also)
1: does not unscrew out
2: also includes a spring loaded tension on the battery - something you don't get on bottom fired mechs

The new design uses that spring at the bottom to cater for battery length instead of an adjustment screw at the top.


1508701-3.jpg
The one in that pic is a good one! No delrin in the switch area.
Not on the "new" mods, but on some of the janky, poorly made clones.

Avoid mods with that switch configuration. That delrin threaded piece will eventually strip the threads.
The CHI you and King clones are excellent devices if you get the right (1:1) ones.
 

Altaire Versailles

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Mar 17, 2013
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999
Detroit MI
I think you'll like the m16 sentinel.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/3027/10005307/1800107
1800107-1.jpg

1800107-7.jpg

1800107-6.jpg


floating center pin
[I have the aluminium $10 one, and it's got a spring loaded center pin]
super short in 18350 mode.
Telescopic, so easy to adjust to different sizes and not get battery rattle.


I have a stingray and a nemesis; the way the threading is at the bottom there's the risk of scraping off the battery wrapper when inserting or removing the battery.


I like the chiyou and king mods (pretty much the same, different names); they use m21x1 threading which is the same as on my vamos and zmax.
this version below seems to be the latest tweak; the bottom cap has a spring button contact on top where it contacts the battery; I haven't been able to open the bottom cap so I haven't figured out how the switch contact actually operates on the inside, but it feels like an improvent over the earlier versions in that you can accidentally unscrew the pressbutton and end up loosing the spring when it pops out.
1451812-9.jpg

https://www.fasttech.com/p/1451812

oh man i love that mod! and 17 bucks? does it have that issue with the top cap getting pushed in and making it fire or short or whatever?
 
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