- Status
The PUCK e-Cig Mod - An e-Cigarette Box Mod You Can Build Cheap and Easy and Uses Standard Rechargable Batteries
The 510 is an innie, and the 306 is an outie.
Do a Google image search and you'll see what I mean by that...
"510 atomizer" and "306 atomizer"
Well, I think the 306 I am using has a much more "airy" draw (that could be bc it's a 3.0 ohm though?), as well as how it works is different. ISomeone more experienced may be able to tell you more- this is my first one.
As for the Puck- it's a really simple, cheap mod. If you go to puckecig.com there is a tutorial.
ETA- oops someone got it already
Last edited:
I assume you know what a 510 looks like. So, . . . .
This is a 306. And . . . .
This is a typical 306 drip-tip.
Any more questions?
I never want to use a 306 looks messy. Btw I just went above 4.5 volts for the first time and omg the dull juice came alive. Guess the power vaping chart is right lol. My ohms are at 2.8-2.9 on this tank and I was at 4.3 volts and it sucked cranked up the Vari to 4.8 then 5.0 and wow killer. I feel like a kid right now.
Is there a world beneath it? Oh, yes there surely is; but if you are using anything standard res, I love going to 4.8-5.0 (depending on the juice). Give that ProVari a chance to do what it does so well: put out what it says it puts out!
I rarely have reason to go below 8 watts. For some people going lower gives better flavor, but it's never been my experience. 8-9 on a standard atty; 9-11 on something like an HH357 that can keep with wicking; and 11+ for thicker wired RBA dripping.
Sent from my LGL55C using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my LGL55C using Tapatalk 2
I love the fact that I know when I'm on 4.8 volts is 4.8. No other mod I know of can do that the more reviews I see that show load test all fail. Granted I don't watch mech mod reviews.
Yeah, a lot of people say it only matters to taste, but the point (for me) is that when you pay for something to tell you what it's doing, it helps when it is actually doing it. The ProVari is on point with its output. I swear there is a difference between 4.8 and 4.9. I love how sensitive it is.
As for the mods that vary output and people say just adjust it to taste? Why even have a digital reading then? A lot of the new VVs do good when you stack to 18350s, but one 18490 always seems to falter. I got two 18490s and one ProVari--I want and or need nothing else...well, maybe a couple more batteries. LOL. Maybe one day I will rock sub-ohms on a mech mod, but I have no desire to worry about it now. There are no Joneses to keep up with!
I killed my 901 vaping with my 5 volt non battery manual passthrough. Of course now i dont rememdr what ohms it was but had to be at least 2.4. Instill have some learning to do. Guess i better stick with 3.00 ohm for my 5 volt vaping. It was going well but i was hitting it harder than usual. $ $10.00 for 4 -ish ml e juice....hmmmm. Not very good.
Here is another tricky thing: not all regular attys at the same resistance can handle the same watts.
Well, ill come back and give a thumbs up for the weird HH357 for being an atty that can handle watt abuse then. It might be weird but its hardy. I think i need one again. Gonna see if it comes in 901.****
yup and its available
yup and its available
Last edited:
I have a question. First off, i never go below 2.00 ohm anymore on any attomizers. Im using two different 5 volt devices for my WTA.
Im ready to buy but some things arent in stock so ill ask my question instead of winging it since the stuff s from $9.00 to $$25.00 a pop!
What is better for 5 volt vaping to deliver the goods. 2.5 ohm or 3.00 ohm. Im looking at Cisco Aero ( out of stock) 901s and 501s ( want both)
And
Long Barrel hh357 901s and 501 s both
And
Which Cisco Bridgless
I hardley ever ask due to my PITA edness so please be specific if possible; i am extremely literal minded and a difficult student at best
Im ready to buy but some things arent in stock so ill ask my question instead of winging it since the stuff s from $9.00 to $$25.00 a pop!
What is better for 5 volt vaping to deliver the goods. 2.5 ohm or 3.00 ohm. Im looking at Cisco Aero ( out of stock) 901s and 501s ( want both)
And
Long Barrel hh357 901s and 501 s both
And
Which Cisco Bridgless
I hardley ever ask due to my PITA edness so please be specific if possible; i am extremely literal minded and a difficult student at best
The Aero 510 and 306 only come in 1.5 ohms, there isn't an Aero 901.
For the HH357 I would get 2.5 ohms. They can do fine with 10 watts.
For other Ciscos I would stick with 3 ohm. 8.3 watts would be about perfect for me.
Sent from my LGL55C using Tapatalk 2
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
- Locked
