Regular Atty Drippers (A Dying Breed?)

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y cherry y

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Mr.Mann

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So I got my Cisco spec 1 ohm in yesterday and it doesn't work. It won't fire on either my VMod or my Nemesis. It will fire on my 808 autos with an adapter though. I tried pulling the post, but no luck.

I figure that's just too much power to a small 1Ω coil, but maybe not? I wanted to put it on a VV (spinner) and keep it low, thus hoping to get longer battery life and a lot of headroom during the drop-off. But if it just ain't working, that's a different story. What numbers is it metering?
 

EbenezerScrews

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OK I use a KangerTech EVOD 510/ego threaded set. I want to find a wickless dripper to use for only testing flavors as I DIY them. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

I need to preface with the fact that the below mentioned are terrible atties and NOT recommended for regular use, haha

CE2 Clearomizers

I had ordered some of these a long time ago but they ended up collecting dust since they performed so poorly. When I decided to get back into trying new DIY flavors I pulled these out and was happy with them for that purpose. The coils are at the top so you can see them clearly, making dripping easy.

Again, I do not recommend filling up the tank and hoping it will wick properly. It won't. Just drip 2-3 drops directly on the coil and vape a bit to get a taste. The coils themselves work fine, for me, it's just the overall bottom fed design that's flawed. Keep some paper towels handy too because even dripping can cause these damn things to leak, haha.

They are inexpensive which is the only reason I am mentioning them as an option. $6 for 5 plus a few bucks shipping, includes a syringe & drip tip per 5 pack.

EDIT: I just rechecked the product description and it doesn't list an included DT. Says "5 per pack with Needle and..." Haha, and...Drip Tip? Mine did come with a DT(a short silicone one with tiny moutpiece) but it may not be included per the description. Any 510 DT will work if that's the case.

Also, if anyone happens to use atties which require CE2 ceramic cups(eBaron, Sofia, etc.) you can scrap them from these atties before they hit the garbage ;)
 
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Johnnie Price

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I figure that's just too much power to a small 1Ω coil, but maybe not? I wanted to put it on a VV (spinner) and keep it low, thus hoping to get longer battery life and a lot of headroom during the drop-off. But if it just ain't working, that's a different story. What numbers is it metering?

I doubt that's too much power, considering the cloud chasers are putting a tenth of that on a mech with no problem. Unfortunately I don't own an ohm meter. I've just been too lazy to buy one. I think it's just not making a connection on my 510 devices. I'm going to take it to my local shop on my next day off and see if they will let me meter it there. If it meters out, I'm going to contact Avid and see what we can work out.
 

Jerms

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I figure that's just too much power to a small 1Ω coil, but maybe not? I wanted to put it on a VV (spinner) and keep it low, thus hoping to get longer battery life and a lot of headroom during the drop-off. But if it just ain't working, that's a different story. What numbers is it metering?

I wonder if thicker gauge wire is used for the 1ohm atties. I do 1 ohm in my rebuildables which I use on a mech, but that's with 28ga wire. If higher gauge like 30-32 is used, that would be way too hot at 4 volts and would need much less power to work well. I'm assuming their using thicker, lower resistance wire for the 1 ohm atties which needs more power to heat up.

I'd be really careful about using them on a Spinner, Mann. Before I used mechs I used a VAMO, and when I was early into rebuilding I built a 1 ohm coil. My VAMO couldn't fire it because it was below the chips limit, so I used an eGo Twist. It worked great.. for a few hours until it broke my Twist. Lower resistance isn't meant to be used in those eGo types of devices; anything lower than 1.5 ohms will majorly lessen it's lifespan and may kill it like I did using 1 ohm.

Even if you lower your Spinner to the lower setting of 3.2 volts or however low it goes, your still pushing well over 3 amps with a 1 ohm attachment, which is too much for them.
 
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Mr.Mann

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I wonder if thicker gauge wire is used for the 1ohm atties. I do 1 ohm in my rebuildables which I use on a mech, but that's with 28ga wire. If higher gauge like 30-32 is used, that would be way too hot at 4 volts and would need much less power to work well. I'm assuming their using thicker, lower resistance wire for the 1 ohm atties which needs more power to heat up.

I'd be really careful about using them on a Spinner, Mann. Before I used mechs I used a VAMO, and when I was early into rebuilding I built a 1 ohm coil. My VAMO couldn't fire it because it was below the chips limit, so I used an eGo Twist. It worked great.. for a few hours until it broke my Twist. Lower resistance isn't meant to be used in those eGo types of devices; anything lower than 1.5 ohms will majorly lessen it's lifespan and may kill it like I did using 1 ohm.

Even if you lower your Spinner to the lower setting of 3.2 volts or however low it goes, your still pushing well over 3 amps with a 1 ohm attachment, which is too much for them.


Thanks for the reminder. It really would be pointless for me to go that low on an eGo device considering 1.5Ω suits me just fine.
 

Mr.Mann

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I doubt that's too much power, considering the cloud chasers are putting a tenth of that on a mech with no problem. Unfortunately I don't own an ohm meter. I've just been too lazy to buy one. I think it's just not making a connection on my 510 devices. I'm going to take it to my local shop on my next day off and see if they will let me meter it there. If it meters out, I'm going to contact Avid and see what we can work out.

Yeah, but like Jerms alluded to, the resistance is not always going to play out the same when you consider the tiny area to build that coil.

An interesting question would be what gauge wire they use for that and normally.
 
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Lyndagayle

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I doubt anyone here uses cartridges any more, but tried them?
Tried them? I think lived through them is a better way to phrase it.
:laugh:

A lot of us have not only tried them, but tried every way on earth to improve them!
:)

I went through so many cartridge modifications over my first year that I have lost track of how many...
--Was using the blue fish filter foam for awhile
--Tried out the pyramid tea bags
--Tried out the Zero Filler Mod for awhile
--Tried the stainless steel mesh pipe screens
--Tried the Spring Mod and various variations for awhile
--Used pen grips (DDC) as a precursor to drip tips for awhile

I'm sure I tried out many other things that I've long since forgotten.

Here are some threads which should bring back some memories...
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/general-e-smoking-discussion/470502-i-remember-back-day.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/cartridge-mods/40093-direct-drip-cart-mod-ddc.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/cartridge-mods/17014-spring-mod.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...supplier-forum/53487-zfm-zero-filler-mod.html

Love this! A blast from the past for sure. Ahhhh those were the days and believe it or not, back then I ENJOYED all the fiddling......now, not so much. I'm still a die hard regular 510 atty dripper. I have no clue what I'll do when they are no longer available. :(
 

Johnnie Price

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Yeah, but like Jerms alluded to, the resistance is not always going to play out the same when you consider the tiny area to build that coil.

An interesting question would be what gauge wire they use for that and normally.

Even with that taken into consideration, it seems odd that it would fire on a regulated automatic but not on a mechanical. But there's still a lot I don't know. I guess I'll just stick to my 1.5 ohm atties. :)
 

classwife

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Love this! A blast from the past for sure. Ahhhh those were the days and believe it or not, back then I ENJOYED all the fiddling......now, not so much. I'm still a die hard regular 510 atty dripper. I have no clue what I'll do when they are no longer available. :(



Me too ! I love the Joye 510 Atty !

But, I do now have some rebuildable atomizers and am finding them just as nice.

There are smaller ones, about the same diameter as an eGo, I like those quite a bit !
 

Mr.Mann

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Are any of those bottom-feeders?

Vapage is selling their regular Vmod kit today up until 8/12 for $39.99 (regularly $99.99). Use coupon code CODE: VM6CX4. I would be all over it if it were for the XL, but it's still a great deal (in case anyone is looking for a solid, but inexpensive, bottom-feeder).
 

billherbst

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Are any of those bottom-feeders?

DC2,

I convert my RDAs to bottom-fed.

I buy YK1 KTS Mini RDAs (Cyclone clones) and A6 Mini RDAs from fastech---five bucks and change for each, depending on how many you order at a time. They're small-chambered with a 13-14mm outer diameter and fit perfectly inside the juice wells of a standard-profile REO Grand or Mini 2.1.

On the RDAs, the silicon insulator (essentially a tube) that surrounds the positive pin of the 510 connection goes up through the deck around the positive post. Using a variable-speed Dremel with a tiny micro-bit, I drill one or two juice channels through that insulator, starting at the side of the positive pin inside the 510 threads on the connector and drilling upwards all the way through the deck. If I drill two channels (for greater juice flow when squonking), I make the channels opposite each other on either side of the pin and post. The silicon insulator remains intact---I've never had a short (and I've done 12 of these over the past year---they're all installed on my little army of bottom-feeders: REOs, Phids, Vapages, etc.).

Some RDAs can't be converted this way because of how they're manufactured. If you can't see the white silicon insulator around the positive connector pin and on the deck around the positive post, odds of their being modifiable in this manner are slim or none, but the photos of each RDA on fasttech make it obvious which can be converted and which can't.

The first time I did this modification on a YK1, I wasn't sure it would work. For one thing, the juice channels are really tiny---would squonking actually push any juice up onto the inner deck of the atty to the wick?. Also, I was worried about shorting out the positive pin against the negative ground of the body. All I was risking was a $5 atty, however, so I gave it a try. Well, the modification worked beautifully---I'd go so far as to say perfectly---as have most of the others I've done since. Oh, I've broken a few micro-bits along the way (they're very delicate---use too much pressure while drilling or bend the bits even a little, and they'll snap right off in mid-shaft), and I ruined one SmokTech Squid RDA that I should have known couldn't be converted, but basically I have it down to a science now.

The A6 clones are particularly nice, because they have phillips screws on the posts rather than hex screws, good-sized holes on each post, and a deck with raised sides that holds a bit of juice. Both the A6s and YK1s vape like champs, though. Yes, RM2s are very nice---I own one and use it on my old 14500 REO Mini whose juice well's inner diameter is too small for anything else. But for the price of a single RM2, I can buy nine A6s or YK1s, and they perform just as well as my RM2.
 
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silkakc

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Me too ! I love the Joye 510 Atty !

But, I do now have some rebuildable atomizers and am finding them just as nice.

There are smaller ones, about the same diameter as an eGo, I like those quite a bit !

I'm a 510 atty lover too! I just installed my first coils on my new RDA's (Magma, Brass Monkey, Origen) and am not liking them so much:( The 3 are huge though with big barrels, so could you tell me which you used that were smaller?

Maybe the coils are the problem. I ordered bags of fifty pre-made coils in the 2.2 and 2.4 range made with 34/35 awg wire. I have no idea what I'm doing truthfully. My week old Joye 510 atty blows all 3 of those RDa's away in flavor and vapor.
 
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