Regulated mods question

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Maybe. Without doubt, the LG HG2 is one of the best batteries out there currently, with a maximum listed draw of 20A. You can check Mooch's reviews for how it performs near the top of its range.

I'm pretty sure you won't want my opinion on the subject, so skip the below if you wish.

I always overcut at least 50% safety factor for anything in the vaping world...because that thing is right next to my pretty face and expensive teeth. So for a 1 battery mod, I wouldn't push past 30 watts. For 2, 60W. For 3, 90W. And I'm making that calculation at 3.0 volts, or lower than most mods will allow the battery to go just to build in a little extra cushion.

That's ultra conservative and also ultra safe.
 

Randy Smith

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Maybe. Without doubt, the LG HG2 is one of the best batteries out there currently, with a maximum listed draw of 20A. You can check Mooch's reviews for how it performs near the top of its range.

I'm pretty sure you won't want my opinion on the subject, so skip the below if you wish.

I always overcut at least 50% safety factor for anything in the vaping world...because that thing is right next to my pretty face and expensive teeth. So for a 1 battery mod, I wouldn't push past 30 watts. For 2, 60W. For 3, 90W. And I'm making that calculation at 3.0 volts, or lower than most mods will allow the battery to go just to build in a little extra cushion.

That's ultra conservative and also ultra safe.
You're worrying me. I use my two battery on 60-80 all day. My 3 battery 60-100..

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk
 
In the case of a 10 A (well, 9.1 A to account for inefficiencies in the mod and inaccuracies in the ohm reader) that would make the floor resistance about 0.45 at 4.2V and 0.35 at 3.2V .

However, 3 batteries at 60-100W is fine; that 90W is already set extremely low so you know that on a good, high draw battery you'll have plenty of wiggle room. 100W doesn't significantly break the rule.

Like I said, that's ultra conservative, and a lot of people are going to poo-poo that. What they can't poo-poo is that it's also undeniably safer. Plus your batteries will last longer, both in terms of daily usage and recharge cycles, as the wear on them is far lower.
 

Matty316

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Although I'm not quite as conservartive as MorpheusPA I do agree with him about giving yourself some wiggle room (I normally go for 25 to 30%) for all the reasons he listed. Also as a battery cell ages it will lose capacity so it's C rating will drop. So a cell that started with a 20A CDR over time with use may become a cell with only a 15A CDR.
 
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Tol

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Batteries in regulated mods don't care what your resists are. I(Current) = P(Wattage) Divided by V(Voltage). Your current will increase as the battery voltage drops.
Higher voltage means less current draw on your batteries, but the max CDR stays the same.

For 3 batteries you will have a voltage range of about 9.6 (cutoff @ 3.2 volts) to 12.6 (fully charged @ 4.2 volts).

100 watts @ 12.6 volts (100/12.6) = 7.94 amps being drawn from your batteries.
100 watts @ 9.6 volts (100/9.6) = 10.42 amps being drawn from your batteries.

both of those example are 100% efficiency, which is not going happen. Most people use 85-90% efficiency when figuring those number out which would make those numbers higher. These number have nothing to do with Ohm's law, this is just the drain put on your batteries. You can plug in some numbers in the Battery Drain page of Steam-Engine to see as well, but it is pretty much straight up division. Over time the CDR of batteries will drop, I am not sure on the specifics of that myself.

On an unregulated mod, resistance is absolutely a critical factor.

I am by no means an expert but this is what I have learned poking my way around the web. I tend generally like to leave a good 30-50% headroom on my batteries for some peace of mind.
 
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Batteries in regulated mods don't care what your resists are.

People keep saying this, but it's sort of false and sort of true. The resistance of your atty determines the voltage that will be used to achieve a given wattage setting, most notably in a boost circuit.

As a general rule, the further off the battery voltage you get, the less efficient the converter is, and the greater the amount of power that's wasted as heat. In some cases, that can be quite significant. In the case of PWM, the significance is generally reduced within the range of pulsed power.

85-90% efficiency will cover you very well, but realize that when your output voltage is very close to battery voltage, the efficiency is probably well above that.

It's roundly true that, plus or minus ten percent or so, your settings in TC or VW mode are far more critical than the resistance of the atty. Hence my general rule of a maximum of 30W per 20A battery in the mod--a 50% safety factor.
 
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Tol

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People keep saying this, but it's sort of false and sort of true. The resistance of your atty determines the voltage that will be used to achieve a given wattage setting, most notably in a boost circuit.

As a general rule, the further off the battery voltage you get, the less efficient the converter is, and the greater the amount of power that's wasted as heat. In some cases, that can be quite significant. In the case of PWM, the significance is generally reduced within the range of pulsed power.

85-90% efficiency will cover you very well, but realize that when your output voltage is very close to battery voltage, the efficiency is probably well above that.

It's roundly true that, plus or minus ten percent or so, your settings in TC or VW mode are far more critical than the resistance of the atty. Hence my general rule of a maximum of 30W per 20A battery in the mod--a 50% safety factor.

So resistance will change the efficiency and affects the current draw (to a much lesser degree than the power settings)? Am I understanding what you are saying correctly?
 
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So resistance will change the efficiency and affects the current draw (to a much lesser degree than the power settings)? Am I understanding what you are saying correctly?

Yes, but I'd still say that your statement that it doesn't matter is at least 85% true.

The other things to consider would be mods with a bypass mode (actually both of my go-to daily mods have this). In that case, you're running it as a mech. Or if the chip manages to fail, which has been known to happen--and power chips can fail closed (although fortunately they usually don't).

The mech mode on my eVic VTC Mini will allow me to run a 0.1 ohm coil...which I personally think is ridiculously low. While not usually an issue, if I accidentally set it for that mode and didn't notice, that could be a potential problem. My Sigelei only allows 0.3 ohm, which is less of a problem and won't overstep the Samsung 30Q I often use in it (the other being an LG HG2, which it won't even stress).

I never believe in courting trouble, enough finds me all on its own. Even on a regulated mod, I always use a resistance high enough that even a theoretical accidental mis-setting won't cause a major issue.
 
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Tol

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Good to know, thanks! Still always new stuff to learn! Back in the day life was simple, most people used eGo or Riva batteries, 1.5 Ohm was considered low resistance. There was like one or two tanks being made and building a coil was just being explored. I got out of vaping for a couple of years and came back to an explosion of new things, lol.
 
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