Reo battery question for sub ohmers

[Vwls]

Hi Reo family! So I scored a cheap Grand in the Classies this week. It's a polished silver (and needs quite a bit of polishing and clean-up), and the price was amazing, so I'm pretty happy.

As some of you know, I started with an original Mini, but it wasn't my cup of tea because I like to vape between .4 and .8 (I'm a vapor junkie!). I knew I needed a Grand to make things work. My desire for a Reo that works for me is based on my concern about dripping and driving. Right now I'm carrying a mechanical and rda with me when I leave the house and I just know I need a Reo when I'm behind the wheel.

So now the Grand has come home to roost. I just have a few questions for my sub-ohm homeboys.

1) Should I order AW IMR 18650 3.7v 1600mAh 24 amp capacity batteries, or can I use flat top Sony's? (SE US18650VTC3 1600mAh 30A)

2) Do I have to convert to a fuse or can I sub ohm as-is?

3) Any modifications I need to do to make things safe/durable?

Thanks!!!

 

[Filthy-Beast]

Somewhere below .6 you'll run into issues with melting the button and would need to do the firing pin and fuse mode. I've see post where people have had melting issues at .5 and others have no issue.

flat tops will be more likely to spark and oxidize use plenty of noalox and you should be fine.

You could always wait for the sub ohm kit and stay to higher end of your range, .6 to .8 ohms coils, without a worry.

 

[Rmcgloth]

The sonys did not fire in my stock grand with a filed pin, but do with my new stock grand, so it is a close thing. They work great though, even down to .4. I have gone down to .4 stock, and had a little button softness, nothing catastrophic. Definitely noalox or dielectric grease to pin and battery tops. Low ohm builds generate more sparking than a 1+ coil.
Congrats on the new grand!

 

[Filthy-Beast]

That reminds me, my son ran into this issue with the Reo I gave him. It would not fire flat tops with the button cover installed, he needed to remove it to get more travel out of the button.

 

[NickCA]

I consistently vape ~.45ohms with the IMR with the 1600 AW IMRs and they've been great, but they do die out relatively quickly when you go that low. I recently picked up a Sony with a button top and it has been great so far.
SONY VTC4 18650 2000mAh Battery - Button Top - 30A

Looks like they are sold out though

 

[X-Puppy]

I've been running Sony US18650VTC4 2100mAh and Samsung INR18650-20R 2000mAh flat tops in my Grand's without too many problems. I'm doing good as long as I keep my coils above .6Ω and keep the top of the battery protected with dielectric grease.

I ran one of my setups at ~.4Ω for a while and had a lot of problems with sparking and misfires with the stock spring and firing pin. After filing the firing pin I had the same problem Filthy-Beast described his son having while using a new brass button. I bent the tip of the firing pin down a little and stuck a little ring of 26g Kanthal under the button to keep it from bottoming out. This seems to work fine and should hold me until the new subΩ kits come out.

I have also found there seems to be a performance difference in new batteries versus batteries that have previously been used in a tube mod. My MNKE's sparked and misfired no matter what I did and I had used them in my tube mech's. My new Sony's and Samsung's have not been a problem.

2 of my firing pins have melted ever so slightly. I'm not sure if this from long term subΩ or my short venture with the .4Ω coil.

 

[marsos52]

here are my experiences, when I got my first Grand I had only flat top batteries and two of them where Sony 1600 mah.
the only issue I had was using the fire button cap. no cap I was fine.

soon after I got button top AW 1600, and am liking these the best. The Sony's are great batteries buy there life between charges is a short one. the AW 1600 last longer and for me are more consistent from a fresh charge till there exhausted.

also from my studies on batteries, unless your vaping under .3 ohms you'll never need to have to use a battery that can ramp 30 amps plus like the Sony. I'm vaping 90% of the time at .8 ohms and when I want a warmer hit like now because it's so freezing cold here, I
go to .6ohms.

 

[Krazirob]

I myself will be giving some of the same advice as the above posters.......flat tops will run fine but make sure your firing pin has noalax on it as those flat tops will spark more.......I vape around .45 ohms and use the AW's no problem....just goes dead quicker....so i find my self using two AW's in a day.

As far as the fuse mod and firing pin......well you can't really go below .55 ohm without having squishy or collapsed spring issues......everytime i would hit .4 it would collapse on me. With the fuse drop you won't have to worry about that and I have ran .28 ohm coils on one of my grands with no issues. Also in conjunction with the brass firing pin you can decrease your voltage drop to about .2 volts which is good cause it can give you more power.

Just my 2 cents.......enjoy

 

[Vwls]

I've been running Sony US18650VTC4 2100mAh and Samsung INR18650-20R 2000mAh flat tops in my Grand's without too many problems. I'm doing good as long as I keep my coils above .6Ω and keep the top of the battery protected with dielectric grease.

I ran one of my setups at ~.4Ω for a while and had a lot of problems with sparking and misfires with the stock spring and firing pin. After filing the firing pin I had the same problem Filthy-Beast described his son having while using a new brass button. I bent the tip of the firing pin down a little and stuck a little ring of 26g Kanthal under the button to keep it from bottoming out. This seems to work fine and should hold me until the new subΩ kits come out.

I have also found there seems to be a performance difference in new batteries versus batteries that have previously been used in a tube mod. My MNKE's sparked and misfired no matter what I did and I had used them in my tube mech's. My new Sony's and Samsung's have not been a problem.

2 of my firing pins have melted ever so slightly. I'm not sure if this from long term subΩ or my short venture with the .4Ω coil.

That's so weird about batteries previously used in another mod. Why would that be? I'm very analytical, and I can't think of a valid reason why this would be true. The rest of the issues are logical... it's because the Reo is not built for sub-ohming below .6. But the battery issue is a mystery... which makes me fascinated with it. Anyone else have a comment on this?

What we need to do is order 4 new flat top Sony's and try two of them in the Reo, and two of them in a tube mod - all at the same resistance build. Record results, then switch, and record results.

My guess is that the newer batteries you purchased are not the same as the older ones - but not because of the mod they were used in. It could be that the earlier batch you had were in some way sub-standard.

 

[X-Puppy]

The surface of the battery was worn, dull and not shiny anymore making it more prone to buildup when arcing and sparking. It had like a welding slag on both the top of the battery where it had contacted and on the firing pin. I had used the MNKE's in question quite a bit and torqed them down pretty good when using them in a telescopic tube mod. I've also heard of other folks having this exact same problem. Not scientific but that's my theory. I'm open to other thoughts though.

PS. the MNKE's are 1500mAh and do pack a solid punch. (IDK)

 

[malkuth]

That's so weird about batteries previously used in another mod. Why would that be? I'm very analytical, and I can't think of a valid reason why this would be true. The rest of the issues are logical... it's because the Reo is not built for sub-ohming below .6. But the battery issue is a mystery... which makes me fascinated with it. Anyone else have a comment on this?

What we need to do is order 4 new flat top Sony's and try two of them in the Reo, and two of them in a tube mod - all at the same resistance build. Record results, then switch, and record results.

My guess is that the newer batteries you purchased are not the same as the older ones - but not because of the mod they were used in. It could be that the earlier batch you had were in some way sub-standard.

I do not know if you watch CSI type shows or not, but think of putting a shell in a gun. Although the guns are built the same, the way the parts line up is different for each one. Therefore, the CSI can tell exactly which gun fired which bullet. The same is true for batteries. When you place a new battery in a mod (or anything for that matter) the battery aligns itself up in some fashion. You do that a couple times, and you will develop a memory on the surface of the battery where it matches the connection on the mod. This will result in depressions/scratches/deformation of the surface of the battery connector. When you move that battery to a different mod, these deformations may or may not line up. If they do not line up, you will incur more sparking due to inefficient connections between the battery and the battery contact.

 

[tmel]

I run my coils at around .8 - 1 ohm.

I recently switched from an AW IMR 2000 MaH to these: Sony 18650 30A Continuous Discharge Battery

3 for 25, can't beat the price. They fire without issue in my Grand and 1 small bottle of noalox will last me years. When the sub ohm kit is available, I'll probably go ahead and upgrade....until then, meh.

 

[X-Puppy]

I liked them so much I bought 4 of those. I wish I would have seen this deal when I made the purchase but they didn't break the bank. My Nichrome will be waiting when the new kit is released.

I run my coils at around .8 - 1 ohm.

I recently switched from an AW IMR 2000 MaH to these: Sony 18650 30A Continuous Discharge Battery

3 for 25, can't beat the price. They fire without issue in my Grand and 1 small bottle of noalox will last me years. When the sub ohm kit is available, I'll probably go ahead and upgrade....until then, meh.

PS. sorry, it looks like we jacked the thread a little. I have a batch of new batteries I could test with but I don't really want to use them for testing. I now have dedicated batteries for my tube mech's.

 

[betterBquietnow]

Hi all, I've got a new Reo Grand coming in tomorrow (my first one!!) and had a battery question, saw this thread, figured i'd drop a quick question in:

Thoughts on using the new VTC4s on a Grand? Will they fit?

SONY VTC4 18650 2000mAh Battery - Button Top - 30A

Plan to coil my Reomizer at about .8 to 1.2, just looking to get the longest possible battery life.

I use NCR18650 PDs in my Hana Modz and get great life out of them, they are rated at 2900mah but I'm unsure if they'd fit in the Reo (a bit different size than an AW IMR 18650)...

Amazon.com: (2 Pieces) Panasonic 18650 2900mAh High Drain NCR18650PD: Electronics

Thoughts? Thanks! Can't wait to join the Reo club!

 

[Boothvilleboi]

I like the aw imr 18650 2000mah . I go about. 6 on my grand and they work perfect. Rtd vapor

 

[supertrunker]

Hi all, I've got a new Reo Grand coming in tomorrow (my first one!!) and had a battery question, saw this thread, figured i'd drop a quick question in:

Thoughts on using the new VTC4s on a Grand? Will they fit?

SONY VTC4 18650 2000mAh Battery - Button Top - 30A

Plan to coil my Reomizer at about .8 to 1.2, just looking to get the longest possible battery life.

I use NCR18650 PDs in my Hana Modz and get great life out of them, they are rated at 2900mah but I'm unsure if they'd fit in the Reo (a bit different size than an AW IMR 18650)...

Amazon.com: (2 Pieces) Panasonic 18650 2900mAh High Drain NCR18650PD: Electronics

Thoughts? Thanks! Can't wait to join the Reo club!

They fit - i use the orbtronics for vaping at about 1Ω, but they will not go super low - at 0.4 you will be running your spring and those batteries too hard. For that stuff i use Orbie sx30s, but the Sony's are good too as is any battery with a 30A constant discharge.

I also mod my firing buttons because they melt other wise. If you are relying on Noalox to stop any sparking, then you'd do well to follow Raynman's advice and apply it to the point of the firing pin and the battery top as well.

0.8 or so is my usual daily vape and a cleaned and noaloxed grand will run that hassle free.

T

 

[Filthy-Beast]

I like the aw imr 18650 2000mah . I go about. 6 on my grand and they work perfect. Rtd vapor

That's about 7 amps, with that load the 1600mah will hold above 3.7 volts longer, so the fact that the 2000mah will last longer below 3.7 volts is of no use to us.

When you look at battery charts for mechanical mods the only part of the chart that matters is 3.7 volts and above. For regulated devices they typically cut off around 3.2 volts, so look 3.2 and above. Big mah doesn't mean anything unless your running a LED flashlite that's only pulling .5 amps.

 

[Cavere]

Yes I use the Sony 30A in my reo as well as MNKEs. The sonys seem to want some fiddling with position sometimes to work right but that is more due to my removal of the spring and how the auto fuse hold it. With the fuse mod and brass firing pin I usually build to .35 and the reo vapes great.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

 

[betterBquietnow]

Sounds awesome all!

Been running the panny's so far and they are rocking, lasting forever with the reomizer at about 1ohm microcoil. Got some VTC4s on their way and looking forward to them.

This thing simply rocks -- after owning a TON of very "high end" mods, I'm happy to say my Reo looks like it will be a mainstay in my daily rotation. In the end, I just want somethign that works, all the time, every time. Consistent performance, low maintenence, long life and on-board juice?? Why didn't I get one of these years ago???

 

[exnihilo]

Can the reo take both nippled and flat top batteries?

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