REO Technical Issues/Shop Talk
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Thank you @TwistedThrottle and @SteamStack! Here’s an up-date. I ended up unscrewing the pin all the way up and out. (I kept checking by putting the atty back on every turn or so without results.) I then began screwing the pin back in but just barely. I put the atty back on and it is firing! Now I’m screwing the atty back down and checking with each 1/4 turn. I still have a long ways to go to get it anywhere near where it was before but wanted to do a check-in. I don’t know if it’s my imagination but it seems as if the firing is decreasing even w a new battery.....will up-date...
Hopefully I didn’t do any damage by completely removing the pin. Maybe the pin got cross-threaded?? I was having some difficulty turning it when I first tried to trouble shoot it yesterday before I reached out to you wise ones....
Up-date: with every turn the firing got weaker and weaker. Am thinking it needs another spa day? What do you think @Eric Parlin?
Hopefully I didn’t do any damage by completely removing the pin. Maybe the pin got cross-threaded?? I was having some difficulty turning it when I first tried to trouble shoot it yesterday before I reached out to you wise ones....
Up-date: with every turn the firing got weaker and weaker. Am thinking it needs another spa day? What do you think @Eric Parlin?
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Hmmm...so it looks like the problem resides in the pin. As I tightened the atty more, the vape got weaker and weaker. I also wanted to try your idea mentioned above. If I read it correctly, I reset the dmm and put 1 prong in the positive pin and touch the threads with the other. I did that but there sure isn’t much wiggle room and the meter was something like .08 while firing. (Twas a fresh battery too). Must be getting something wrong....
I'm jumping in here a little late and trying to catch up. When I had your mod in for the its original Spa Day, the only work I did around the 510 pin was to clean it out with a Q-Tip. So, there's a few possibilities that come to my mind off the bat.
1. There may be a something interfering with the pin (like Q-Tip fuzz). So, the farther down you tighten the pin, the more it interferes. You should be able to remove the screw completely and then give the interior of the 510 connection a little blast of compressed air to blow out anything that may be there.
2. Since the pin connects directly to the strike plate, if the "nut" on the 510 connection is not making good contact with the strike plate, you may be getting an intermittent connection. To check that, remove the bottle tube and loosen the bottom of the nut slightly - just enough that the strike plate rotates freely. Then, re-align the strike plate and tighten the nut snugly.
If neither of these work, then I probably screwed up something with your Spa Treatment - failed to get a good connection with the new spring to the body or the positive contact to the battery terminal or something like that. I'm happy to take another look at the mod and see if I can discover what is going on. Just let me know what I can do to help.
1. There may be a something interfering with the pin (like Q-Tip fuzz). So, the farther down you tighten the pin, the more it interferes. You should be able to remove the screw completely and then give the interior of the 510 connection a little blast of compressed air to blow out anything that may be there.
2. Since the pin connects directly to the strike plate, if the "nut" on the 510 connection is not making good contact with the strike plate, you may be getting an intermittent connection. To check that, remove the bottle tube and loosen the bottom of the nut slightly - just enough that the strike plate rotates freely. Then, re-align the strike plate and tighten the nut snugly.
If neither of these work, then I probably screwed up something with your Spa Treatment - failed to get a good connection with the new spring to the body or the positive contact to the battery terminal or something like that. I'm happy to take another look at the mod and see if I can discover what is going on. Just let me know what I can do to help.
You rock Eric with your response here and on email. I will check these 2 options out in a day or 2 after work and report back. Thank you again!
I love tinkering but I’m not exactly skilled in that arena. Haha. So I got up this morning and was inspired to try this on my Grand that is working well. Sooooooo........yep, there was a fabulous connection and it read 4.19 AND then my coil dropped
Guess I got the 2 prongs too close? Silly me. Luckily I have lots of parts and I replaced said coil with a new one. The baggie said “old version.” Its silver color rather than the gold that I collapsed. What’s the difference? Tis firing. I would be happy to get a newer version from Reos. Now I’m part of the collapsed spring crew. Never say never. Hahaha. Thank goodness for this safety mechanism for folks like me. Haha
I love tinkering but I’m not exactly skilled in that arena. Haha. So I got up this morning and was inspired to try this on my Grand that is working well. Sooooooo........yep, there was a fabulous connection and it read 4.19 AND then my coil dropped
Now I’m part of the collapsed spring crew. Never say never. Hahaha. Thank goodness for this safety mechanism for folks like me. Haha
Old non gold low ohm version spring.. prob be fine if your vaping around 1ohm.. not sure how low you can vape on the old spring.
live and learn! Haha only way you learn is by doing. Hopefully you got a few reos right?I've dropped a spring or 2 as well. Haha
So with the 510 pin tight all the way in what reading are you getting with the dmm set on DC?
What atty are you using? Is the center pin on that atty pushed in at all? Flat to the threads or sticking out?
Have you tried firing it with a different atty with the 510 screw on the p67 high?
Remember the 510 screw is reverse threaded which ya prob figured out by now but just encase.. right (clockwize)will rise the screw and left (counter clockwise) with lower it.
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Old non gold low ohm version spring.. prob be fine if your vaping around 1ohm.. not sure how low you can vape on the old spring.
Yes! You all taught me to have back ups for my back ups!
I've dropped a spring or 2 as well. Haha
I’m in good company!
So with the 510 pin tight all the way in what reading are you getting with the dmm set on DC?
I forgot to mention that I did check the dmm trick on DC with the P-67 and got a silly number...I think .08 or something like that (should have written it down). Certainly not the 4.19that I got from my Grand and I didn’t collapse the spring hahaha. (Still wondering how I accomplished that).
What atty are you using? Is the center pin on that atty pushed in at all? Flat to the threads or sticking out?
I’m using an O-16 and it’s working fine on my Grand now. I tried the O-16 that was on my Grand on the P-67 but not firing on it. The center pin is sticking out slightly below the threads.(I’m pretty content with my O-16’s and don’t take them off except to re-build every couple months.
Have you tried firing it with a different atty with the 510 screw on the p67 high?
No
Remember the 510 screw is reverse threaded which ya prob figured out by now but just encase.. right (clockwize)will rise the screw and left (counter clockwise) with lower it.
I’m gonna try a couple tricks suggested by @Eric Parlin on Sunday and report back. Thank you @SteamStack. I answered each of your questions in the body of your letter. You rock.
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I love tinkering but I’m not exactly skilled in that arena. Haha. So I got up this morning and was inspired to try this on my Grand that is working well. Sooooooo........yep, there was a fabulous connection and it read 4.19 AND then my coil dropped
Now I’m part of the collapsed spring crew. Never say never. Hahaha. Thank goodness for this safety mechanism for folks like me. Haha
re: the silver coloured spring, you would be fine down to .7 ohms or so. I used to vape around there on the old springs all the time.
At about 0.3Ω the steel springs would start to feel the pace and gradually sag! It'd take a day or so, but eventually the battery would rattle and ofc the mod would no longer fire.
I'd not go below 0.5Ω using one, and that limitation was precisely what led to experiments with fuses, different spring materials and solid silver bolts.
T
I'd not go below 0.5Ω using one, and that limitation was precisely what led to experiments with fuses, different spring materials and solid silver bolts.
T
I will probably get some new gold springs just in case. I run SS coils, does that make any difference? Is SS .7 the same? Just curious.
SS has a slower ramp up time then Kanthal A1 and also the ohms rise when heated. So if at .7 cold it will rise to .7- 8+ ohms when hot. Also you never want to get so red hot as it will burn quick and you could break the coil easy. If you dry burn it to remove the crud, do so slowly and pulse it to a light glow over time. Also you dont want a dry hit with ss as I've read it's the nastiest taste ever in your mouth! Heh.
But no.. shouldn't be the cause of your problem.
I’ve been using the SS for a year or 2 and I like working with it, especially not having to dry burn it before making the coil. Yep, dry hits are never fun but I don’t notice a difference from Kanthal. Both rather yucky. Hahaha. You are so right about the slow pulse.
Alrighty, had a minute to try these suggestions. The air trick was fun but I guess there’s no q-tip remnants. I started to do the 2nd idea and it re-occurred to me that although I like to fiddle about, I’m not really good at it. Hahaha. Rather than dismantling the whole thing, I’m thinking I best be smart and send it in for a pro to look at it. There seems to be some extra play in the lock function that wasn’t there before. It’s not impeding contact but it might be part of the bigger picture.
Ummmm...might be a good time to get a couple gold springs too for my Grand....
I’ll send her back to you tomorrow. Thanks all for your continuous help and kinship.
Might be a good idea to send in the atty you use with it too, that way it can be tested together.
Looking forward to it coming back and I'll let everyone know what I find out so we all add the info to our collective knowledge base.
And, of course I can throw in a couple of springs with the return shipment. Better safe than sorry...
Another question wise ones,
A friend did a PIF with her Grand. Cool huh? The spring needed replacing but unfortunately the screw is stripped. I tried everything I know from trying to tighten and then loosening, putting it freezer (an old atty trick) etc and all I have managed to do is strip the screw more.....
Ideas?
A friend did a PIF with her Grand. Cool huh? The spring needed replacing but unfortunately the screw is stripped. I tried everything I know from trying to tighten and then loosening, putting it freezer (an old atty trick) etc and all I have managed to do is strip the screw more.....
Ideas?
Use a thin flat blade screw driver and force it under the spring plate (on the right side of the screw)
Once it's under the spring plate, twist the screwdriver clockwise, popping the plate off the screw.
Of course the spring and screw will need replacing...
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