REO Technical Issues/Shop Talk
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i have always used a magnet on top of my batteries to simulate the button top and despite dire warnings of short-circuits and such, never had an issue. The brown HG2 'tootsie roll' batteries are all i have used for the last 2 years (granted, not one at a time - but you get the idea).
When i was using 30A batteries and experimenting with lung-burning coils, i used the ones from Orbtronic (they are in fact Sony VT4's).
T
When i was using 30A batteries and experimenting with lung-burning coils, i used the ones from Orbtronic (they are in fact Sony VT4's).
T
I'm still having trouble finding reliable 18650 IMR AW button top batteriesCan someone hook me up with a link? I've tried several other vendors other than RTD (still out of stock). I need some batteries that are real! I took chances on several and they drain fast and leave me mad.
Hi there Tracy,
I was having the same trouble several months ago. I’ve always been a button top AW user. I posted a similar question and got some good Reo advice. I went ahead with the Pink 30Q flat tops in all of my mods except for my mini of course and am just fine with them. (Good life, etc). I wish I could remember what company I used but can’t right now. But guess what? @Train2 recently posted something on the most recent page of the Lounge that might be also helpful.
Hey there Reonauts. Got a bit of a situation. I had been having a bit of trouble with the button cover staying on my P-67. I tried thread and it would buy me a week or so before it got silly again. Then I got a “bright” idea and pulled the button cover off my mini and put it on my P67. It went on without any difficulty..............then I noticed that my vape was very weak. Then it wasn’t firing at all. I checked the ohms on the atty and it was fine. Cleaned contacts and applied Deoxit per usual. Put the atty on my Grand...no problem with firing. I did notice that when I slipped the alcohol pad in to clean the .....ummmm....firing pin (?) that there was more space than usual and perhaps it was not making contact. Sooooo, I think I ought to remove the button cover but am not sure exactly how to do it easily and safely....don’t want to harm anything in there. Any ideas?
Thanks in advance wise ones!
Thanks in advance wise ones!
You'll want to remove the contact plate and remove the spacer above that by unscrewing the screw to remove it. All that to get the contact pin out of the way.
To start..
To remove the contact pin, you'll need a pair of needle nose pliers. Remove the tube from the nipple. Then grab the nipple with the pliers and turn it toward the button to loosen it. Then put the tube back on the nipple and turn the tubing to fully unscrew it. Then remove the contact plate.
Then unscrew the spacer above that.
Then take a flat head screw driver to pry the back piece of the button off.
I'm guessing the contact plate that contacts with the possitive pin has loosened and why it's not touching right now to make contact.
Rob had videos on how to do this way back when the p67 first came put on youtube.
Use the tube connected to the nipple to easily start screwing the nipple back on when you go to put it back together.
The hard part is keeping the contact plate straight when you go to tighten the nipple with the pliers. Righty righty lefty loosy.
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You rock @SteamStack! I decided to send in my mod for a Spa Day cause I also want to have the wooden thingie (block?) replaced with Ultem so I can give her a bath occasionally. I was just gonna edit my post so I didn’t waste anyone’s time.....but....perhaps this will be helpful to another Reonaut. Again thank you for your wisdom! We value you! And yes, I remember that video that Rob did now that you mentioned it.
Say, did you all see the teaser that @Eric Parlin just put out on the new thread?
Say, did you all see the teaser that @Eric Parlin just put out on the new thread?
No problem! You'll ensure you'll have no leaks taking that option to send it in as they will add ( a little liquid teflon I believe it is) to the threads if the nipple to seal the connection from leaks.
Yes, I’m looking forward to it having the full spa treatment too. I maintain my mods well but it gets lots of use and since it is from the first run, it can’t hurt to get new contacts, etc. I’ve been wanting to give Eric some business and since I don’t need a new mod this will hopefully help out a bit. Now, if a new Reos mod comes down the pipeline, I’m all in!
I sent my beloved P-67 in for a day at the spa, button replacement and ultem insert. The communication was right on. Shipping was quick and I can surely say that Reos is in good hands with Eric and Cindy. Tis that kind of customer service that keeps me coming back for more!
It was also cool to give her her first bath now that she has an ultem insert! (It wasn’t dirty on return, just kinda wanted to. Hahaha). Thank you @Eric Parlin!
It was also cool to give her her first bath now that she has an ultem insert! (It wasn’t dirty on return, just kinda wanted to. Hahaha). Thank you @Eric Parlin!
Say, I’ve often wondered about this but haven’t researched it further. So here goes, Reonaut wizards: I typically build coils on my USA Ohm Meter Fire Meter and then check the atty again with my Innova 3320 multi-Meter when it is atop my Reo and I get 2 very different numbers. For example: my build came in .8 on my Fire Meter but then came in at 1.1/1.2. The same is true when my atty is still on the Fire Meter and I check it with the multi-Meter.
Any thoughts? Which one is more accurate? Thanks in advance.
Any thoughts? Which one is more accurate? Thanks in advance.
Hold the 2 prongs together on your multimeter.. prob need to hold it for 5+ seconds to settle on a final reading. The number you see on the mm is the internal resistance which will be different per reader. Now you need to deduct that number from the final reading of your coil. So if the mm says .04ohms holding the prongs together deduct that from the reading when you meter the coil with the mm.
Then you can judge that number against the other reader you have. Then from then on as long as you remember that number of ohms it's off, you can know what your coil really is.
Theres more expensive multimeters out there that can give a more accurate reading if needed.
Then you can judge that number against the other reader you have. Then from then on as long as you remember that number of ohms it's off, you can know what your coil really is.
Theres more expensive multimeters out there that can give a more accurate reading if needed.
Holy Toledo! Just did it and it reads .3. Now that makes sense. Thanks @SteamStack! No wonder I get different readings from these 2 devices AND why I could never seem to get my coils to match what the Steam Engine says when I only used the multimeter.
Silly me. Does .3 seem like it’s off a lot or is it just the nature of a well used cheaper multi meter? Thanks again.
Hmmmmmmm........not sure if this is mercury in retrograde or what but..... so I got my P-67 back from the spa and was enjoying it the last few days when I noticed that it wasn’t always firing this evening. I adjusted the pin a bit and it worked...for a while. I tried the atty on another Reo and it was firing so I figured it must be the pin. (I tried another atty on it and no firing). Now, no matter how many different ways I’ve readjusted the pin, I get nada.....Hmmmm....any ideas?
Bummer @Robinowitz hope it is just Mercury in retorgrade, but try adjusting the pin all the way up to where its just barely in there, twist your atty on and see if it fires. Also, double check the lock isnt engaged. Also, while pushing the go button with the door off, see if you are pressing against the positive plate. Also, see if the plate is loose. If you push on the plate with your finger, does it rotate at all? Tighten if needed. Hope this helps. Maybe your p67 is just wanting another spa day?
Holy Toledo! Just did it and it reads .3. Now that makes sense. Thanks @SteamStack! No wonder I get different readings from these 2 devices AND why I could never seem to get my coils to match what the Steam Engine says when I only used the multimeter.
Does .3 seem like it’s off a lot or is it just the nature of a well used cheaper multi meter? Thanks again.
No that's just the nature of cheap digitsl multimeters.. it's normal.
Not good. Hope it's just the positive pin. Like said above raise it to where the atty ends up being lifted off the p67 when tightened so you know it's making contact with the pin. If still no fire, check the contact plate if its loose.. and make sure when you press in the button the possitive contact is touching the contact plate.
If all that is good it must be something else.. maybe the positive contact is loose and only way to get to that is to remove the cover which would be an issue cause you would need to remove the nipple first. :/
If you get to that point contact eric if not done already.
Also to see if shes firing and power is getting to the positive pin, you can take your dmm and set it to DC volts. Shove one prong in the positive pin and the other prong touch the threads of the 510. Press the button on the p67 and see if you get a reading. With a fresh battery it should read around 4.19- 4.20v.
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