REO Technical Issues/Shop Talk

[Debadoo]

Just saw this from Mooch........you would know I just received 6 from Orbtronic, but I can feel some slight texturing on the white ring, so am checking with Mooch to see if he thinks I got real ones. Will post back about what he says

Counterfeit/Low Grade LG HG2 Test Results

 

[supertrunker]

Orbtronics are good batteries and i've used them for years. The SX30s that i use are re-wrapped Sony VTC4s.

They rewrap batteries, but they don't counterfeit them!

T

 

[Debadoo]

Orbtronics are good batteries and i've used them for years. The SX30s that i use are re-wrapped Sony VTC4s.

They rewrap batteries, but they don't counterfeit them!

T

no, I don't think he's saying the vendors did it, but rather that even some very reputable vendors got duped and unknowingly got some bad ones. That's how I took it anyhow

 

[Robinowitz]

Hey there, I'm about to ply with some SS 316l wire that I heard about over in our Lounge. I typically run in the 1.2 arena but am willing to to below 1 and give it a try, especially since I'm hearing that the SS is a cooler Vape.
Am looking at Steam Machine to guide me on use of the 28 and 30 that I got. What should the "heat flux" be set at? I believe it is automatically set at 10 but Sloth referred to it but I can't recall it making sense to me. Plus I never payed much attention to the heat flux section anyway. Thanks all.

 

[Train2]

That area isn't going to change the number of wraps calculation - but it's gonna tell if you're building a comparatively "hot" coil or not.
Since you're on a REO, you're 1.2 coil will be in the 12 to 14 watts range.
(on a regulated mod, you could enter different watts to see where you might want to set it - on a Reo, you get what you get from the battery)

Enter that, and the Flux area just gives you a "heat score" and color. Watch it turn red if you crank down the ohms to like 0.5 (which changes the watts to more like 32) - closer to where I like it.

Hey there, I'm about to ply with some SS 316l wire that I heard about over in our Lounge. I typically run in the 1.2 arena but am willing to to below 1 and give it a try, especially since I'm hearing that the SS is a cooler Vape.
Am looking at Steam Machine to guide me on use of the 28 and 30 that I got. What should the "heat flux" be set at? I believe it is automatically set at 10 but Sloth referred to it but I can't recall it making sense to me. Plus I never payed much attention to the heat flux section anyway. Thanks all.

 

[Debadoo]

Enter that, and the Flux area just gives you a "heat score" and color. Watch it turn red if you crank down the ohms to like 0.5 (which changes the watts to more like 32) - closer to where I like it.

I never realized you could change the wattage in that area. I never knew what to do with the heat flux either, someone told me it didn't matter really, so I mostly used coil toy that didn't have that part

I vape pretty much the same as robin.....so my setting is blue of course. It default opens to 1.8 ohm and that's green. Reckin green is cooler than blue for them. lol

Thanks for splainin that lucy!!

 

[Robinowitz]

That area isn't going to change the number of wraps calculation - but it's gonna tell if you're building a comparatively "hot" coil or not.
Since you're on a REO, you're 1.2 coil will be in the 12 to 14 watts range.
(on a regulated mod, you could enter different watts to see where you might want to set it - on a Reo, you get what you get from the battery)

Enter that, and the Flux area just gives you a "heat score" and color. Watch it turn red if you crank down the ohms to like 0.5 (which changes the watts to more like 32) - closer to where I like it.

Thank you Train for "splaining" it! Yep, all I use are Reos and that keeps it simple (just how I need it). Now I'm rubbing my forehead for not remembering the 3.7 volt battery part .

Any experience with how to customize the heat flux on the Steam Machine so that it doesn't default back to 10 in between uses? I'm betting it's easy (another forehead rub). Hahaha

From what I've been reading about the SS being a "cooler" Vape, I think I'll tinker with .8 or .9 and maybe re-visit using a 2.0 Kuro instead of my 2.5 long time habit.

 

[CMD-Ky]

I use SS 316L at around 1.2 spaced on a screw 2.5 mm. As Rule62 describes it, "Smooth".
On Steam Engine, I use the heat flux and heat capacity as relative values never changing the voltage. I don't fully understand physics of the numbers but I know what number work for me and stay within the range. I know the values may be wrong but they are consistent.

 

[ratchet62]

With the old forum closed, I guess I'll ask my question here.

I see that Rob is now selling the new SS 510 connector on the REO site. Has anyone retrofit an old Grand from the brass 510 to the SS adjustable?

Was it hard to do? Has anyone put out any type of tutorial on making the change?

 

[puffon]

With the old forum closed, I guess I'll ask my question here.

I see that Rob is now selling the new SS 510 connector on the REO site. Has anyone retrofit an old Grand from the brass 510 to the SS adjustable?

Was it hard to do? Has anyone put out any type of tutorial on making the change?

Was wondering the same.
Does one need an arbor press to install?
Are they epoxied in?
How do you remove the old, drill?
Maybe @earthrocker*72 can fill us in?
Can a mechanically inclined hoople do the replacement?

 

[Justice]

I have done several of the old style. I forget the bit size to drill but you just drill then a little gentle dremel work and the old one pops out. I used a little vice and a socket over the new 510 to press it in. Not for everyone to do but not something that takes high end equipment

 

[ratchet62]

I have done several of the old style. I forget the bit size to drill but you just drill then a little gentle dremel work and the old one pops out. I used a little vice and a socket over the new 510 to press it in. Not for everyone to do but not something that takes high end equipment

Sounds pretty straight forward, especially since I have access to a machine shop and some really good machinists. Anyone else done one?

 

[supertrunker]

superglue i reckon.

i once tried some stuff where i epoxied everything and after i got my eyelids unglued, i saw the light.

No machine shop for me sadly.

T

 

[puffon]

superglue i reckon.

i once tried some stuff where i epoxied everything and after i got my eyelids unglued, i saw the light.

No machine shop for me sadly.

T

I know the Woodvills are superglued, wondering about the metals tho.
Acetone dissolves superglue. Not good for the eyes however...

 

[supertrunker]

after i got my eyelids unglued, i saw the light.

i'm not always this sarcastic, but mostly i am.

T

 

[Debadoo]

With the old forum closed, I guess I'll ask my question here.

Glad ya did.......that's what we put it here for.

Can a mechanically inclined hoople do the replacement?

Not this one......I used to have a T-shirt that said...... "I'm mechanically inclined.......I screw up everything!" I miss that t-shirt

after i got my eyelids unglued, i saw the light.

 

[Robinowitz]

Glad ya did.......that's what we put it here for.


Not this one......I used to have a T-shirt that said...... "I'm mechanically inclined.......I screw up everything!" I miss that t-shirt

I hear you Debadoo! I LIKE the idea of figuring stuff out and tinkering but if truth be told, I'm not very good at it. Luckily, Reos are very forgiving. If they weren't the best Vape out there (IMHO), I wouldn't have these "opportunities" to get improve in the mechanically inclined arena (Old dog...new tricks syndrome).

 

[Layzee Vaper]

@Robinowitz

Never bothered playing with SS but you could just try adding an additional wrap to your normal build or increasing the internal diameter of the coil. This would increase the resistance a little and reduce the wattage and temperature. You would get a little more surface area too. Not saying it will work for you but it may be worth a go?

 

[Robinowitz]

@Robinowitz

Never bothered playing with SS but you could just try adding an additional wrap to your normal build or increasing the internal diameter of the coil. This would increase the resistance a little and reduce the wattage and temperature. You would get a little more surface area too. Not saying it will work for you but it may be worth a go?

Thank you Layzee. I was actually thinking about decreasing the resistance to overcome the cool Vape a bit. I tend to like a warmer Vape. That said, all of this is still rolling around in my head as I haven't had a chance to fiddle yet. Can't quite figure out if I'm a researcher/planner or a lazy vapor

 

[Layzee Vaper]

Thank you Layzee. I was actually thinking about decreasing the resistance to overcome the cool Vape a bit. I tend to like a warmer Vape. That said, all of this is still rolling around in my head as I haven't had a chance to fiddle yet. Can't quite figure out if I'm a researcher/planner or a lazy vapor

Misinterpreted what you were trying to achieve. OOOPs!

For warmer you would want less wraps or a smaller diameter coil ! you could also try a more limited airflow. Dropping a wire size will also warm things up, but with a higher resistance.

Heat flux is useful to put you in the right area when playing with different wire types. I tend to open multiple tabs in steam engine, as it makes it easier to switch backwards and forwards between wire types and battery drain.

If you have a VW device as well as a REO you could try bumping up the power with your normal setup till you get the warmth you want, this will give you a heat flux number to work from.


Good luck...