Repaired SD not working! HELP

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adopted1962

Full Member
Jun 5, 2009
52
0
New York
I had my screwdriver for a few days and had a problem with the switch. The spring melted and the switch broke. (i think) I sent it back to be repaired and just got it back. I used it for a day and a half and the same thing happened.
PLEASE does anyone know what is happening? I've hardly used it and I don't think I'm doing anything wrong.
It wasn't dry. I've tried different atomizers. The body got real hot again and the spring is still there, but it now stays pushed down.
Could there be something wrong with the battery? I was using a purple spider fire both times.

I'm still waiting for a backup in the mail and I don't want to send it back again. Is there any way to fix it???


 

Houdini

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Jan 12, 2009
2,107
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64
Las Vegas
Look into the body at the switch. There should be a round piece of clear plastic in there to prevent the switch from be activated all the time. Here's what it should look like. If it's missing, that's your problem. You can get the switch out with a long pair of needle nose plyers. It unscrews from the inside. You can use a piece of electrical tape in place of the clear plastic.

IMGsd.jpg
 

kishd

Full Member
Feb 19, 2009
29
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South Africa
If the spring melted/compresssed your atomizer is probably shorted out.Gently prise the spring loose so that it is no longer flat. Gently screw on a new atomizer just so that it makes contact and not too tight. The SD should now work. The switches rarely give trouble. Most of the problems are from what is screwed onto the SD. Do not screw on old or damaged atomizers onto the unit.
 

adopted1962

Full Member
Jun 5, 2009
52
0
New York
No, the plastic piece is in place. It must be my atomizers. I've only used brand new ones that came with the screwdriver. Could I be that unlucky to keep getting bad ones?
Any suggestions on where to buy better atomizers? Is there something I should be doing to prime the atomizer when I first put one on? I dripped on them...should I stop that?
Thanks everyone for your help. I'll just have to send it back and be patient again. (i am not a patient person)
 

JustJulie

CASAA
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Verified Member
Jan 30, 2009
2,848
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Des Moines, IA
When I got my first SD, I was sooooooo excited. It started up immediately and vaped like a champ. Then I put in the 801 adapter that I talked Trog into selling me. Puffed it a few times, and the handle got very, very warm. Opened it up, and the spring had basically melted off.

I decided to order another SD as a backup. When it arrived, tried it with the adapter. Yup. Blew out my second one. Turned out there was a short in the adapter itself that caused the malfunction.

I think it was about that time that Trog decided that adapters for the SD were probably more trouble than they were worth. ;)

Of course, Trog took good care of me, and both SDs were promptly replaced (and the adapter tossed in the trash). No complaints from me.

Now, in my case it was clearly the adapter causing the short. In your case, I can't imagine what the problem could be. I'd contact Trog, and he'll make it right. And once your SD is up and running, you'll be a happy camper. Honestly, it's a sweet vape.
 

adopted1962

Full Member
Jun 5, 2009
52
0
New York
Yes, Trog is taking care of it. I just feel bad because I feel like I'm driving him crazy.
I keep wondering if "I" am doing something wrong...but I hardly used it. He even offered me a refund, but I hear so many people enjoying their SD that I want to also! LOL
Plus I have no backup yet. I did order another e-cig so I don't get so disappointed when something like this happens. I was so excited about quitting regular cigarettes and I get downright sad when I have to send it back. LOL Plus some people think I'm crazy spending that much money on these things. So many people around here have never heard of an e-cig.
thank you
 
You are not crazy, I have a SD too and, while it was expensive, I'd have paid almost any amount for something that would help me to quit smoking real cigs.(20 plus years two packs a day) I'm in Mississippi and people look at me really funny when they see me vaping outside of a movie theater or restaraunt but I don't care. Hell, I don't care if I can spell restaraunt or not. All that said, I haven't had a real cig in almost two months.
 

Vaping Angel

Full Member
Jun 23, 2009
12
0
Hawaii
Hi Adopted,
I got your message and I replied, I don't think you are doing anything wrong, and yes it might just be a little bad luck, but the good part is that Trog services his stuff and that goes a long way in making the money spent worth while.
I was also told not to screw on the atty too tight. just as much as it will go is all you need to do.
This is the first time I experienced a short too, luckily for me I was able to loosen the spring back up. It works fine now.
I think what I did wrong was that I held it down for much longer than 10 seconds, looking for that glow in my atty. When I stopped pressing the button is when i noticed my case was hot and so was the battery. My atty was dead and it nearly fried my SD. My fault, I live and learn.
I'm sure it will all work out for you!
 

Antebellum

Super Member
ECF Veteran
May 8, 2009
310
4
Madison, GA
Excellent question. I have a multimeter coming, so can you explain this?

I have two SD's and I love them, sorry you've had problems!

Hi, Sharon and Adopted,

To test an atomizer with a multimeter, put the meter on the Ohms or continuity scale. There may be a small speaker icon beside this scale, indicating there's an audible alert for continuity, but it'll probably be marked by an omega symbol and have the max (maybe 200 Ohms) scale reading beside it.

Then place one of the probes - either one - on the small center conductor, ie, slightly inside, but don't go further than a millimeter or so. Take the other probe and either touch the inside threads (painted band) or the outside of the ring (silver band).

The multimeter will sound a tone to indicate continuity if the connection in the atomizer is intact. Look at the reading on the scale - it should be somewhere between about 3.5 to 5.0 Ohms.

If you don't hear the tone, or the reading is off the scale (indicating infinity or an absolute break in the circuit), check your probe placement.

If you verify the placement and still don't have continuity, the problem is that the atomizer has an open circuit, which means a broken wire or melted solder joint. In other words, it's toast. No amount of cleaning, vodka, coke, or anointing is going to repair what's wrong and bring it back.

If there's continuity, but a very high resistance, say 50 Ohms or more, then the atomizer is likely to be highly gunked up and on its last legs. Then the atty MAY be worth trying to save. I haven't had much success with this, but hope springs eternal.
 

adopted1962

Full Member
Jun 5, 2009
52
0
New York
Antebellum, thank you for the reply and explaining how to use the multimeter. It still sounds confusing to me. Do you think its worth it to have one? I have short circuited
2 screwdrivers...I wish I knew if it was bad atomizers, or bad batteries, or bad ME? LOL
Maybe I had the body screwed on too tight? I'm afraid to buy more bad parts from China.
And I really think I'm going to cry if I ruin a 3rd one!
 

SharonLM

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Hi, Sharon and Adopted,

To test an atomizer with a multimeter, put the meter on the Ohms or continuity scale. There may be a small speaker icon beside this scale, indicating there's an audible alert for continuity, but it'll probably be marked by an omega symbol and have the max (maybe 200 Ohms) scale reading beside it.

Then place one of the probes - either one - on the small center conductor, ie, slightly inside, but don't go further than a millimeter or so. Take the other probe and either touch the inside threads (painted band) or the outside of the ring (silver band).

The multimeter will sound a tone to indicate continuity if the connection in the atomizer is intact. Look at the reading on the scale - it should be somewhere between about 3.5 to 5.0 Ohms.

If you don't hear the tone, or the reading is off the scale (indicating infinity or an absolute break in the circuit), check your probe placement.

If you verify the placement and still don't have continuity, the problem is that the atomizer has an open circuit, which means a broken wire or melted solder joint. In other words, it's toast. No amount of cleaning, vodka, coke, or anointing is going to repair what's wrong and bring it back.

If there's continuity, but a very high resistance, say 50 Ohms or more, then the atomizer is likely to be highly gunked up and on its last legs. Then the atty MAY be worth trying to save. I haven't had much success with this, but hope springs eternal.

A little confused. I put a newly charged battery on the 20 where the outside letter is V, and it is reading 4.2 so I assuming I did this correctly. Then I checked a slightly used battery at the same setting and it read 4.0, so again I'm assuming I'm doing this correctly.

Now, when it comes to the atomizers, this is where it's a little confusing. First and I'm sure this will sound stupid, but I do take the atomizer OFF the e-cig to test, right?

Then, putting the setting where it shows (on mine) a musical note, putting one of the probes in the threaded end and the other probe just slightly into the atomizer I get a screeching noise and it reads .002 or .003. If I move the setting just slightly to the next setting next to the musical note which is 200, it reads between 3.3 and 3.5. So is that what I'm wanting? The setting that is quiet (no screeching) but reads 3.3 to 3.5...it doesn't really hold still on any number, kinda goes back and forth between the 3.3 and 3.5.

Any help is appreciated, am I doing this right?
 
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