OK, I'm a little confused after reading the bulk of this thread. Are these actual ceramic heating elements or ceramic encased nicrome heating elements? From the figures concerning the resistance change it could be assumed that this is actual ceramic type heating, however the product of gaining resistance with higher temp could be achieved by adding a themistor to the heater.
If this is an actual ceramic heater I would be interested to know what is being added to the ceramic to lower the voltage requirement. From my experimentation in my previous thread, I found that higher voltage is required to allow the electrical jump across the ceramic material.
Also, I came across this tonight. There is a company already selling a ceramic vaporizer, though I believe the product intended for vaporizing is a schedule one substance....
Ceramic Heater - Silver Surfer Vaporizer
Other thoughts:
Looking at some of the atty designs, not to say I can come up with a better idea or to flame anyone as all the designs look great, but comparing them to what has been commercially made it looks like no one is taking into consideration choked flow venturi. That is from what I can tell, the commercial atties are designed with choked flow around the heater in order to utilize the "venturi effect" to help draw fluid towards the core of the atomizer. Food for thought.
I just want to say you seem to post good thoughtful information.
It seems everyone is coming up with a different slant on ideas. Mine are modular (not going to do it any other way period) and The wetting method I am going to use is the "soak and drain" method. The juice Box already uses this, I own one and can attest to its ability to work extremely well. With this particular heating element, I would use the same method. The soak method allows for much larger reservoirs to be contained within the mod, eliminates flooding, dramatically reduces maintenance, allows for changing flavors easily.. and probably more. The only downside is that the mod becomes larger (box mod).
Regarding the soak method on the heating elements we are working with here, I would first try without any wick (hope that works well). If that works well I will also try wrapping some of that silica fire wick directly around the element to reduce pumping frequency. Hopefully that will work better and not start burning the wick. Over time the wick will need to be changed but with this type of element there is no "uncoiling" so that should be fairly easy to do.