Heard any thing yet?? Saw Scubabatdan's post.Waiting with bated breath!!(er wuz that just bad breath???)
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Hey everybody!
After a smallish wrangle w/the Post Office, I got my heater! It's a cute 'lil thing.
Just went to the hardware store today, got the stuff for an idea that has been hatching, just need time.......Round 2 of Jollyday Madness........
Will post when prototype works.
Disclaimer: Most likely,it will be weird-looking, very possibly ugly!
If the design is well-received, I will need lots of help to make it pretty!
Thanks, SV
After a smallish wrangle w/the Post Office, I got my heater! It's a cute 'lil thing.
Just went to the hardware store today, got the stuff for an idea that has been hatching, just need time.......Round 2 of Jollyday Madness........
Will post when prototype works.
Disclaimer: Most likely,it will be weird-looking, very possibly ugly!
If the design is well-received, I will need lots of help to make it pretty!
Thanks, SV
After doing a little research and looking for the optimum voltage here is what I came up with, anyone want to check my math?
This is based on 1000ma of course.
Dan
This is based on 1000ma of course.
Dan
After doing a little research and looking for the optimum voltage here is what I came up with, anyone want to check my math?
This is based on 1000ma of course.
Dan
So , if I understand, it will burn a little hotter? Or it would be better hotter??
Made a ceramic housing specific to this and it all but stopped producing vapor while inside the housing. For those of you trying to work with this, the heat transfers off of this very easily. It cannot be in contact with anything or it will take even longer to heat up. I am afraid that once airflow goes across it the ceramic device will not produce much vapor.
The only hope is increased voltage.
For the record the ceramic housing almost got hot enough to produce vapor.
I tried different configurations but I am at the point where the leads are almost ripped off due to pulling wires through holes.
The only hope is increased voltage.
For the record the ceramic housing almost got hot enough to produce vapor.
I tried different configurations but I am at the point where the leads are almost ripped off due to pulling wires through holes.
Received mine about a week or two ago, but have been so busy with holidays/shopping/kids I haven't had any time to test. Just got my computer back up and running after a month wait on a video card fan...
Probably won't get any testing in till after the new year. I am very anxious to start, and will keep updated with any findings.
Probably won't get any testing in till after the new year. I am very anxious to start, and will keep updated with any findings.
YES, I started thinking about this in in http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modders-forum/44849-mods-microcontroller-2.html but never got around to building it. it would also solve the switch problem and i would put a pot to make the power user controlled with feedback from the tip temp sensor, like a PID control loop PID controller - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia with pot manual input to move the curve and tuning BUT this is something to work on AFTER you get it worked out on the bench with batteries and just simple power control. i would suggest a bench power supply $100, just a cheap one use your own meters to check as testing (be sure to look at the amps too, strange things can happen to power even with DC) which you should already be doing as you test with batteries and the cheap meters from Harbor Freight work just as good as a $400 Fluke. Good luck, I'll lurke but no time to do, sorry
Please keep in mind the goal here: a better atomizer, with a bench power supply you can do anything a PWM power controller can do and get all the data needed to set up a loop controller. All this PWM and PID has been done and can be done if necessary it’s almost trivial. If it turns out your att works much better at 5.22 volts than at 3.7 or 6 a PWM controller can be built but I don’t think so, it will be like my tests that there too many other variables in any battery system, what we deal with now.
Oh ya, on the bench be sure to use the biggest wires you can in the power circuit and make new probes with #12 wires as short as possible for the meter you use to see the amps or get a GOOD $400 DC clamp on. You would be amazed the difference, it doesn’t matter much in our PV’s the wires are so short, start stringing out 4 or 5 feet around the Bench and it makes a BIG difference.
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Well my first test today involved allowing the heater to run for 60 seconds non stop with 4 vdc and placed the non heated tip on a piece of polyfil in an attempt to burn dry polyfil. Nada no burnt smell no melted section on the swatch I cut. I did drip a drop of ejuice onto the element and wow lots of smoke. Looks good so far.
Also I found a cartomizer rubber grommet fits perfectly around the element.
More to come,
Dan
Also I found a cartomizer rubber grommet fits perfectly around the element.
More to come,
Dan
Did you have the polyfil in contact for 60 seconds? If not, how long?
About 10 seconds in multiple areas after 60 second heat time. It should, if it was hot enough, instantly melt the polyfil, but after a 10 second press it did nothing to the polyfil.
Dan
Do you by chance know the melt point of the polyfill? These things were supposed to be getting to 200C. I don't think they can get above that no matter the voltage because of their design. So if the poly will not melt @ 200C then it never will no matter how long you let it heat up.
I will test, as soon as I can, 2 AW 18650's fully charged for 8.4V. I wish I had a laser temp tool to see if increased voltage improved heat up time.
I have not had a chance to test mine yet other than to hook it to my variable voltage DC supply and hit it with 4.2V just to make sure it got hot.
For those wanting to check temp with a point and shoot laser probe. Keep in mind you are not going to get a very accurate reading of something that small. You are (at best) going to get an average of the ceramic and the surrounding 4-5 square inches of desktop (or whatever it is on). The laser itself doesn't measure the temp; it's just there for sighting what you are shooting.
For those wanting to check temp with a point and shoot laser probe. Keep in mind you are not going to get a very accurate reading of something that small. You are (at best) going to get an average of the ceramic and the surrounding 4-5 square inches of desktop (or whatever it is on). The laser itself doesn't measure the temp; it's just there for sighting what you are shooting.
First test a couple of days ago burned my finger...... I was happy it heated so fast! Surprised, but happy. That was with a ~4.2v power supply. Going to test tonight on some wicking material, like Dan. Hopefully will have more progress on the actual atty by next week.
BTW, thanks jxmiller for the heads up on the porcelain wire nuts!
BTW, thanks jxmiller for the heads up on the porcelain wire nuts!
Polyfil softens about 150C, since the tip has a additional non heated material it is possible it is slightly below that. I am wondering what the temp would be against a wet catridge material. Remeber the heater part was 200C but there was additional non heated area added at the tip, so the temps is a little lower right on the tip. What if we encased the heater in nichrome, it would allow wicking and should not decease temp as much when air passes over it. Hmmmm more testing to do.
Dan
I am not sure how to create the ideal "holder" for this atomizer. The ceramic and porcelain seem to absorb the heat if this thing is even close to it. The best I have came up with in my mind is a housing made of a heat reflective type of material. Polished aluminum might be good. That way the heat stays on the ceramic atomizer.
Regarding porcelain wire nuts, these things work nicely. Something else considered is porcelain crucibles.
Edit: I just got a crap load of high quality silica rope. Took a piece and twisted and folded it a few times then took a lighter to it. It "singed" a bit then went red hot. After about 4-5 seconds I took the flame off and to my amazement it was still the same. Good stuffs.
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Yeah, I have used silica rope to cradle the atty cup in rebuilt atties. Basically replacing the metal mesh wicking material with this rope. I have gotten some samples of braided silica sleeving, but have not used this material yet. I had been planing to use it as a filler replacement for kr8 cartos. But I think the sleeving would hold the your heater nicely also insulating from shorts and allowing airflow around it.
Braided teflon sleeving might also work too, like the stuff they use around the wire in heat-sealing machines.
Last time I sourced that I got it through McMaster-Carr.
Last time I sourced that I got it through McMaster-Carr.
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