A dry bulb thermometer. Pretty much anything else interpolates temperature, but some methods do it very very well.
Resistance locking: Why you shouldn't
- Thread starter KurtVD
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It's a shame that thermistors can't handle the temps we vape. Most of them top out at around 250F. Most of the equipment I serviced used thermistors to measure temps on a hot roller. 380F wasn't too hot for those. The backup overtemp thermostat kicked out around 420F. They were both covered with an orange teflon outer layer and they rode against a revolving teflon coated fuser roller. That wouldn't work for our TC control,though.
Just musing about alternative methods. I've thought before about a tiny thermistor inside the atty as standard equipment, but that would require connection prongs to interface with the mod. No more 510 threads. A plugin connection wouldn't be compatible with today's hardware.
The more I think about it the more I admire the elegance of the Chinese design.
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That might be about as Close as I could think of to a Thermodynamic Temperature measurement.
But some will point out that when "Temperature" is measured, what we are Really Measuring is the Kinetic Effect being exerted on some other Medium.
And that Actual/Direct Measurements of "Heat" are Very Difficult to do.
It’s strange that there is a debate on locking resistance for tc. It’s been around long enough so you’d think the debate would be over. Mods have the lock resistance feature and I don’t think it’s for anything other than tc mode but I’ve had good luck without locking in tc mode. Although I don’t really chain vape so maybe that has something to do with it. Just my thought on the matter. I take short hits off subohm coils at high nicotine mg’s so I don’t bother with tc much anymore unless I’m bored. Watts does just fine for these short tokes and a good curve mode can make longer pulls perfect if I so choose to toke that way. Just seems there should be a concrete answer for this by now. We need the ecig manufactures to get together and standardize the whole TC process.
It's really not so much a debate as the fact that different boards used in mods don't all work the same. Some do require a locked in resistance for decent performance, others not. Which means you have to address it item by item with no fast rule of lock or not.
I skimmed so I missed a lot. Different mods, different ways.
I don't notice any benefit in VTC-minis with Arctic Fox. With the stock firmware it was pretty much locked in at what it screwed on as.
I don't think Battlestar even has a lock. Cylon does.
Some it's a very subtle different between locked and unlocked.
When using SS in power mod on some mods if you don't lock it and take consecutive quick puffs it will read the second firing at the hotter resistance.
Again this is something that only some mods do. (I think the VTC-minis with stock firmware did it but don't remember if that's the ones that did it for sure.)
I don't notice any benefit in VTC-minis with Arctic Fox. With the stock firmware it was pretty much locked in at what it screwed on as.
I don't think Battlestar even has a lock. Cylon does.
Some it's a very subtle different between locked and unlocked.
When using SS in power mod on some mods if you don't lock it and take consecutive quick puffs it will read the second firing at the hotter resistance.
Again this is something that only some mods do. (I think the VTC-minis with stock firmware did it but don't remember if that's the ones that did it for sure.)
this is extracted from a yihi g class ad:
The SX Mini G Class will allow you to go from 5 to 200W in normal Watt-mode. This means you can use resistances from 0.05 to 3.0 Ohm.
The G Class is brilliant for both heavy subohm and a more civilized vape on higher Ohm.
Of course you can also vape using Temperature Control (TC). YIHI calls their version Joule-mode and this feature will allow you to adjust the heat of your coil wire from 100°-300°C (212°-572°F) and vape with resistances between 0.01 - 1.0 Ohm.
In Joule mode you can choose between Nickle, Titanium and Stainless Steel wire.
Remember to always lock your Ohm when vaping TC: First mount the tank you want to use. Then press the joystick in for 1-2 seconds. The screen will display the Ohm and lock it.
Personally I haven't noticed any resistance drifting in any of my mods, but I still lock in my resistance. It doesn't do any harm or produce a bad vape on any of my mods DNA or Wismec(Arctic Fox)or Pulse 80watt. YMMV depending on your device.
PS I'm a full time Temp Control only vaper. I can't wait for my yihi mod to arrive in the mail
The SX Mini G Class will allow you to go from 5 to 200W in normal Watt-mode. This means you can use resistances from 0.05 to 3.0 Ohm.
The G Class is brilliant for both heavy subohm and a more civilized vape on higher Ohm.
Of course you can also vape using Temperature Control (TC). YIHI calls their version Joule-mode and this feature will allow you to adjust the heat of your coil wire from 100°-300°C (212°-572°F) and vape with resistances between 0.01 - 1.0 Ohm.
In Joule mode you can choose between Nickle, Titanium and Stainless Steel wire.
Remember to always lock your Ohm when vaping TC: First mount the tank you want to use. Then press the joystick in for 1-2 seconds. The screen will display the Ohm and lock it.
Personally I haven't noticed any resistance drifting in any of my mods, but I still lock in my resistance. It doesn't do any harm or produce a bad vape on any of my mods DNA or Wismec(Arctic Fox)or Pulse 80watt. YMMV depending on your device.
PS I'm a full time Temp Control only vaper. I can't wait for my yihi mod to arrive in the mail
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I have found this in the manual for the DNA 75 board. I guess that should settle it, at least for DNA 75 devices. Summary. Locking not necessary, unless you find it doesn't work right without it.
First:
Attaching a New Atomizer
The DNA 75 uses the resistance of the atomizer to calculate the temperature of the heating coil. It continually looks to see whether a new or changed atomizer has been connected. If you are using temperature protection, be careful to only attach new atomizers that have cooled to room temperature. If a new atomizer is attached to the DNA 75 before it has cooled down, the temperature may read and protect incorrectly until the new atomizer cools.
When you connect a new atomizer or disconnect and reconnect your existing atomizer, the DNA 75 will prompt you to confirm this change. When you fire the first time, before activating the DNA 75will prompt “New Coil? UP YES/DOWN NO”. When you see this prompt, if you have attached a newatomizer, press the UP button. If you have disconnected and reconnected the same atomizer, press the DOWN button.
And second:
Resistance lock: The DNA 75 relies on the cold resistance of the atomizer to measure temperature accurately. If the connection is not stable or if you find the measured resistance drifts with time, it may be desirable to lock the atomizer resistance. To do so, while locked hold both the Fire and Up buttons for two seconds to enter Resistance Lock mode. In this mode, the DNA 75 will use the present atomizer cold resistance without refinement until the atomizer is disconnected or the resistance lock is disabled. A lock symbol will replace the ohm symbol on the display. To disable resistance lock, repeat the procedure to lock it.
First:
Attaching a New Atomizer
The DNA 75 uses the resistance of the atomizer to calculate the temperature of the heating coil. It continually looks to see whether a new or changed atomizer has been connected. If you are using temperature protection, be careful to only attach new atomizers that have cooled to room temperature. If a new atomizer is attached to the DNA 75 before it has cooled down, the temperature may read and protect incorrectly until the new atomizer cools.
When you connect a new atomizer or disconnect and reconnect your existing atomizer, the DNA 75 will prompt you to confirm this change. When you fire the first time, before activating the DNA 75will prompt “New Coil? UP YES/DOWN NO”. When you see this prompt, if you have attached a newatomizer, press the UP button. If you have disconnected and reconnected the same atomizer, press the DOWN button.
And second:
Resistance lock: The DNA 75 relies on the cold resistance of the atomizer to measure temperature accurately. If the connection is not stable or if you find the measured resistance drifts with time, it may be desirable to lock the atomizer resistance. To do so, while locked hold both the Fire and Up buttons for two seconds to enter Resistance Lock mode. In this mode, the DNA 75 will use the present atomizer cold resistance without refinement until the atomizer is disconnected or the resistance lock is disabled. A lock symbol will replace the ohm symbol on the display. To disable resistance lock, repeat the procedure to lock it.
Way too verbose again. The first 2 paragraphs are just setup, feel free to skip them.
I'm so happy to have found this thread. I was happily tootle puffing along on Innokin VV v3s with Anyvape Davides until they were no longer available. So I had to modernize, shopped around, and ended up buying Wismec RX75s and one Wismec Sinuous 80, since it is way easier on my bad hands to squeeze the Wismecs than to push any firing button. Of course as an old techy, I had to try out TC since the capability was there, and I dove right in, figuring things out as I went along.
I vape at least 3 flavors during the day, switching around among them, so I need at least 3 devices set up and working every day. Since I can't make my own coils and there's no sub ohm equivalent to the Kangertech protank almost universal coils I tried out an assortment of replaceable coil tanks that used TC compatible coils. The original Uwell Crown was my favorite and I've been stocking up on those, as well.
All of that to explain why I'm so glad this thread is here. I was close to giving up on TC because of 2 constant problems. I kept getting bounced from TC to wattage, and when I did stay on TC I had to answer the same coil or new coil question over, and over, and over. I didn't even know that locking the resistance was an option. I pulled up my manual, and sure enough there it was. I locked the resistance on each one and have been happily puffing away since, interruption free.
So thanks again for the help. My low power Wismecs obviously aren't DNA boards, and maybe when I'm further along this new journey I'll check to see about firmware upgrades andthe programs everyone seems to be using to manage their TC via PC.
I'm so happy to have found this thread. I was happily tootle puffing along on Innokin VV v3s with Anyvape Davides until they were no longer available. So I had to modernize, shopped around, and ended up buying Wismec RX75s and one Wismec Sinuous 80, since it is way easier on my bad hands to squeeze the Wismecs than to push any firing button. Of course as an old techy, I had to try out TC since the capability was there, and I dove right in, figuring things out as I went along.
I vape at least 3 flavors during the day, switching around among them, so I need at least 3 devices set up and working every day. Since I can't make my own coils and there's no sub ohm equivalent to the Kangertech protank almost universal coils I tried out an assortment of replaceable coil tanks that used TC compatible coils. The original Uwell Crown was my favorite and I've been stocking up on those, as well.
All of that to explain why I'm so glad this thread is here. I was close to giving up on TC because of 2 constant problems. I kept getting bounced from TC to wattage, and when I did stay on TC I had to answer the same coil or new coil question over, and over, and over. I didn't even know that locking the resistance was an option. I pulled up my manual, and sure enough there it was. I locked the resistance on each one and have been happily puffing away since, interruption free.
So thanks again for the help. My low power Wismecs obviously aren't DNA boards, and maybe when I'm further along this new journey I'll check to see about firmware upgrades andthe programs everyone seems to be using to manage their TC via PC.
I’m glad you found a solution! As for your non DNA board(s), I’m not an expert, but you can check if Arctic Fox can be uploaded on them. It’s a firmware that will give you similar functionality to a DNA board plus the ability to configure it on the PC (but not on the Mac, unless you have Windows installed). I’ve installed Arctic Fox on my Pico 75 devices, I can recommend it.
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