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Need help from former MFS (MyFreedomSmokes) customers
Has any found a supplier or company that has tobacco e-juice like or very similar to MFS Turbosmog, Tall Paul, or Red Luck?
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Not to get off/on topic 
.....but I just hit the money setting for 30g kanthal and 28g nickel for an awesome .... weld!!!
2200uf cap
34.5 volts
Kanthal in positive clamp/nickel in negative clamp
.....but I just hit the money setting for 30g kanthal and 28g nickel for an awesome .... weld!!!2200uf cap
34.5 volts
Kanthal in positive clamp/nickel in negative clamp
Not to get off/on topic
2200uf cap
34.5 volts
Kanthal in positive clamp/nickel in negative clamp
About how much do you extend the wires from the clamps? I've found that keeping the resistance wire short seems to work better for me, but can be a little difficult to work with in some situations.
I used a power supply from an ATM machine with an adjustable 24V DC output. Cranked it up to 30V, wired in a diode and single 2200uF 50V capacitor along with a momentary switch and alligator clips on the output and a toggle switch for AC power. Place your wires to be welded in the clips, turn on the power switch, press the momentary switch (literally takes just a regular button press, maybe half a second), then tap the two wires together (overlapped a bit of course). Perfect weld! Used 30 gauge Kanthal and Nickel NR wire, and creates a perfectly solid connection. I haven't tried other wire sizes yet, but I see no need for 28 gauge in my Terminator builds and the adjustable output should help me fine tune for thinner wire if necessary. It's a bit on the large side, but it gets the job done and better yet it was free!
Thanks ECF for bringing this about, I would have never thought of it otherwise and I HATE twisting wires!
Thanks ECF for bringing this about, I would have never thought of it otherwise and I HATE twisting wires!
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TV had not been plugged in for 3 weeks. Went to replace the bad picture tube (25 inch). Zzzzzzap!. Thought those things had bleeder resistors to prevent that.
Naw, no bleeder...a tube can hold a charge for a looong tme. You need to attach a screwdriver to a shorting wire and stick it under the cup (and clip) to discharge it.
I love having a welder, changed the vape completely. Been using 36 awg kanthal and it just performs amazing with cotton compared to thicker wires. The heat response is instant, even at higher ohms it still performs instantly at low voltage even. It only takes 0.7inches for 1.8ohms so I wouldn't be able to use it without a welder.
Now that's a nice looking cotton wick, been using cotton for quite a while now and I don't think I've ever rolled a wick as nice as that one! (or is that some sort of yarn? 
)
Oh, good work on the the welding, too
(or is that some sort of yarn? )Oh, good work on the the welding, too
Now that's a nice looking cotton wick, been using cotton for quite a while now and I don't think I've ever rolled a wick as nice as that one!
Oh, good work on the the welding, too
Cotton rounds, thank you btw.
Glad you could get some cash out of people that are to lazy to make their own Its not like the info isn't here and free but if they want to pay you for it then more power to ya.
Its not like the info isn't here and free but if they want to pay you for it then more power to ya.
Not true at all.
I have read up on these and even tried to make one.
I am the worst at soldering anything.
I'm not electrically minded either and never did understand electricity other than basic wiring.
I have not given up yet but it is super hard to get used cameras around here and buying new ones to screw up can get expensive.
I'm have not even thought about buying all the parts and making one from scratch either.
Would I buy one pre-made? Probably not as I would not use it enough to justify the cost.
I have read up on these and even tried to make one.
I am the worst at soldering anything.
I'm not electrically minded either and never did understand electricity other than basic wiring.
I have not given up yet but it is super hard to get used cameras around here and buying new ones to screw up can get expensive.
I'm have not even thought about buying all the parts and making one from scratch either.
Would I buy one pre-made? Probably not as I would not use it enough to justify the cost.
Glad you could get some cash out of people that are to lazy to make their own
Not to get off/on topic
2200uf cap
34.5 volts
Kanthal in positive clamp/nickel in negative clamp
Quoted from a while ago, but I finally wanted to make a new coil, and started experimenting with my welder.
I used 5400uF of capacitance, and after about a dozen tries at different voltages, I got a good .... weld.
I ended up with about 3/16" of that end of the resistance wire being (seemingly) more rigid from the abuse, but it worked fine. I was at 22.5V, and tried the other end right at that voltage as well. The second end welded well on the third try, as I recall others mentioning before.I wrapped the coil around two sewing needles that just fit into the slots on the head, and pulled the legs tightly as I compressed the coil, which is my usual method. The welds stood up to that just fine. I'm vaping on it at 10W as I type this.
Anyway, after looking back a bit to compare energy levels, I found that I was really close to yours: 2200uF at 34.5V = 1.309 Joules.
Mine was: 5400uF at 22.5V = 1.367 Joules. That was on 32 gauge nichrome to 32 gauge nickel jewelry wire, a bit smaller in diameter than yours.
Good stuff! Another thing that I have noticed is that I don't seem to be getting the usual flooding that occurs when I have the tank filled to the wick. My last setup was pretty bad about that, and I wonder if the twisted legs were wicking some of the liquid down, as I had an unusually high-helix spiral wrap on my last coil legs. I guess time will tell on that.
Cheers!
Hi sorry for sounding thick but what the white rectangle object inside the box on the left hand side please.
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