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The resistor should go before the board. And there is no use for a second switch to the cap. Other than that it looks good.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but that is the way I built mine.
There is really no need for the resistor before the board... The resistor after the board will introduce a time constant which will prevent the cap from drawing a lot of current on initial charge (a drained cap is an effective short at the instant the charging switch is closed).
Thanks for the reply. Intending to order the needed parts in the morning. The LM2577 being acquired from EBay.
Switch S1, is On-Off. S2 is Off-Mom. Is a Capacitor 2200 Ohm 35W & resistor 470 Ohm 1 W is ok?
Switch S1, is On-Off. S2 is Off-Mom. Is a Capacitor 2200 Ohm 35W & resistor 470 Ohm 1 W is ok?
You almost got it right... should be 2200µF at 35V (get 50V to be on the safe side).
Ant Zapper!
I deleted the On-Off switch.
B1 - Battery 18650 Holder
BH-18650-PC-ND
S2 - Switch, Off-Mom
539PB-ND
F1 - Fuse, 2A 125V
507-1032-ND
R1 - Resistor, 470 1/2w
CF12JT470RCT-ND
C1 - Capicator, 2200uf 50V
P5187-ND
P1/P2 - Clips, Gator (lol)
314-1018-ND
Utility Box
HM1070-ND
LM2577 (EBay)
Switch, Off-Mom (On Hand prior order)
Total with shipping cost: $22.39
I deleted the On-Off switch.
B1 - Battery 18650 Holder
BH-18650-PC-ND
S2 - Switch, Off-Mom
539PB-ND
F1 - Fuse, 2A 125V
507-1032-ND
R1 - Resistor, 470 1/2w
CF12JT470RCT-ND
C1 - Capicator, 2200uf 50V
P5187-ND
P1/P2 - Clips, Gator (lol)
314-1018-ND
Utility Box
HM1070-ND
LM2577 (EBay)
Switch, Off-Mom (On Hand prior order)
Total with shipping cost: $22.39
i wonder if this method could be utilized? Thermal K probe? Do it yourself. - kingpincooling.com
Wish I had found this thread a couple weeks ago! 
Thanks Strangebrew (great movie btw) for the link. I haven't read through the thread yet but I will, so if I say anything that's been covered already my apologies.
I got my zapper built a couple nights ago. I had never heard of this little gem until I watched Scott's Ithaka review for the first time about a week ago. When he used it I immediately paused it and began my search for this battery powered magic, I still haven't finished watching the video, lol. So I found Garry Dibley's video on VTTV, which lead me to Breaktru's forum, which led me to making my first miniature AA powered arc welder!!! How freaking cool! lol
First attempt is pretty sloppy but it works quite well. When I find a good housing for it I'm just going to build a better one. I wanted to do what it looks like some of you guys are doing and build the circuit from scratch but the camera board shortcut was too tempting.
Board and caps are from standard Kodak disposable.
I read on the Breaktru forum they are having better luck with their welds by touching the tips of the wires, more than once. By the 2nd or 3rd zap there is a little bead at the end of the wires that fuses and makes a great bond. Worked really well for me with 32g Nickle and 28g Kanthal A-1.
Also, if anyone is looking to mod a camera board I got a few used ones free from Walgreens. One of those was a Kodak Power Flash model. The board has a 160uF cap on it The board in it is red, really cool looking, lol. That's the one I'll be using for the "good build".
Thanks Strangebrew (great movie btw) for the link. I haven't read through the thread yet but I will, so if I say anything that's been covered already my apologies.I got my zapper built a couple nights ago. I had never heard of this little gem until I watched Scott's Ithaka review for the first time about a week ago. When he used it I immediately paused it and began my search for this battery powered magic, I still haven't finished watching the video, lol. So I found Garry Dibley's video on VTTV, which lead me to Breaktru's forum, which led me to making my first miniature AA powered arc welder!!! How freaking cool! lol
First attempt is pretty sloppy but it works quite well. When I find a good housing for it I'm just going to build a better one. I wanted to do what it looks like some of you guys are doing and build the circuit from scratch but the camera board shortcut was too tempting.
Board and caps are from standard Kodak disposable.
I read on the Breaktru forum they are having better luck with their welds by touching the tips of the wires, more than once. By the 2nd or 3rd zap there is a little bead at the end of the wires that fuses and makes a great bond. Worked really well for me with 32g Nickle and 28g Kanthal A-1.
Also, if anyone is looking to mod a camera board I got a few used ones free from Walgreens. One of those was a Kodak Power Flash model. The board has a 160uF cap on it
The board in it is red, really cool looking, lol. That's the one I'll be using for the "good build".
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I see another project in my near future.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
Have contact! Max out @ 37.3V, will try welding 32 nickel - 30 Kanthal tomorrow.
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If anyone here would like to remake a new device better and would like to sell there old WORKING project please let me know.. I would love to make one of these and I do lots of vaping with NR R builds and this would rock.. but do not have it in me to even get close to making one of these... thanks a bunch.. and good work
I would think a PCB posted to one of the sites that make them cheap, (and then a parts list), followed with a kit with a proper markup, would be easy-peasy.. Mind you, I just solder - no EE here ;-)
Don't know if its already been said but could you make one out of a disposable camera?
There's a lot of discussion on that way earlier in the thread - people are dong just that.
Sadly, it appears walmarts no longer has any of them for recycling - at least mine doesn't.
Good ole wally world... they would sell mods if they didn't have to pay for them first.
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