Got to get some of that brass tubing. Did you use the soldering iron or a torch yo solder it?
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Got to get some of that brass tubing. Did you use the soldering iron or a torch yo solder it?
lol...I was out of acetylene so I just used a soldering iron
It doesn't need much. I just tinned a dab on top of the screw, tinned a little of the inside of the tube, and then slid the tube over the screw and touched the outside of the tube with the iron. The brass heats up fast so it doesn't take long, it took me three tries to get it mostly straight but its not perfect. The ID of the tube was just a little to big so there was some slop.
The tube was just some I had. I got mine at an RC place, but a train hobby place has similar, I know Lowes has similar in the drawers in the hardware section, a hobby/craft place like Hobby Lobby or Micheal's might have something.
I didn't think church and state methods would be as appropriate as touch and bonk methods
Ok, I've updated my setup and removed the resistor and diode from the setup that was built per GSA's instructions.
I put in an on/off switch and moved the momentary to be between the PSU + out and CAP + in. This was done for two reasons. One I some how damaged the diode and don't have another handy. Two I wanted to charge faster as waiting 30 seconds or more to charge was just a PIA.
This lets me charge up and fire in just a bump of the momentary. I've welded 32awg Nickle to 34awg NiC80 with lots of success and since I thoroughly test the welds prior to use I haven't had any break while rebuilding heads. These wires were built for 2.2ohms and used in Kanger T3 heads. This has eliminated the hot leg issues I've had with the T3 and I'm loving the T3 in use now.
I've also welded Nickle 32awg to Kanthal A1 28awg for use on a geni. I haven't used this last wire yet as I'm waiting on some other things.
Anyone considered doing a timer for the charge? Since I've found that holding the charge button is a bit tricky to time for different wire sizes I think it would be could to have a dial to adjust the charge time and an LED to light when ready. I need to go looks around for some parts.
I put in an on/off switch and moved the momentary to be between the PSU + out and CAP + in. This was done for two reasons. One I some how damaged the diode and don't have another handy. Two I wanted to charge faster as waiting 30 seconds or more to charge was just a PIA.
This lets me charge up and fire in just a bump of the momentary. I've welded 32awg Nickle to 34awg NiC80 with lots of success and since I thoroughly test the welds prior to use I haven't had any break while rebuilding heads. These wires were built for 2.2ohms and used in Kanger T3 heads. This has eliminated the hot leg issues I've had with the T3 and I'm loving the T3 in use now.
I've also welded Nickle 32awg to Kanthal A1 28awg for use on a geni. I haven't used this last wire yet as I'm waiting on some other things.
Anyone considered doing a timer for the charge? Since I've found that holding the charge button is a bit tricky to time for different wire sizes I think it would be could to have a dial to adjust the charge time and an LED to light when ready. I need to go looks around for some parts.
You can use the pot on the LM2577 to adjust the voltage to where you want and then you don't need to time the charge button for a specific voltage. You may want to use a smaller resistor between the charge switch and cap to limit the current draw a little. Some of the more knowledge electrical guy here recommended doing so to protect the LM2577. I used a 470 ohm resistor and it doesn't take to long to charge a 4700uF cap.
I was womdering why my red led light wasn't coming on, thought maybe a bad solder. What i didn't know was the light comes on when the capacitor is fully charged which is 8 seconds of holding the charge switch.
I am not using the resistor but still have the diode installed, not really needed as my push button is between the regulator (+) out and the caps. My meter drops down about 3volts when I hit the push button and gets back to the set voltage in about a second. I am using a 7.2 volt 30c lipo pack. Put my first welded coil in an Ody today almost as good sex...
Question, can I use that big ole resistor that I bought and am not using to discharge my caps?
Question, can I use that big ole resistor that I bought and am not using to discharge my caps?I am not using the resistor but still have the diode installed, not really needed as my push button is between the regulator (+) out and the caps. My meter drops down about 3volts when I hit the push button and gets back to the set voltage in about a second. I am using a 7.2 volt 30c lipo pack. Put my first welded coil in an Ody today almost as good sex...
Any resistor should work to drain the caps...the larger the ohm the longer it will take to discharge. I used a 1k ohm resister on mine.
Now I have an off topic question....I like sex and have a terminator I got around Christmas and haven't messed with to much and I would like it to be almost as good as sex
What is your ody setup?
Now I have an off topic question....I like sex and have a terminator I got around Christmas and haven't messed with to much and I would like it to be almost as good as sex
Whoa! I orderd an Ody and they didn't even tell me about this feature! I really can't wait for it get here now.
I just leave the clips together to drain the CAP after I shut off the unit. I could see adding a double throw switch that would allow you to drain to a resistor when you shut it off.
Wicked with two threads of 2mm hemp, one long down the ceramic and a short cut to the edge of the ceramic. Oval 30g 2 ohm coil....Really liking this setup,
Any resistor should work to drain the caps...the larger the ohm the longer it will take to discharge. I used a 1k ohm resister on mine.
Now I have an off topic question....I like sex and have a terminator I got around Christmas and haven't messed with to much and I would like it to be almost as good as sex
Done....done....done....and satisfied (for now )
Swapped out the momentary button and LED for another DPDT rocker. I couldn't find a momentary DPDT rocker locally, but I really like how it turned out with the normal rocker switch. Just set the wanted voltage, flip the switch until the display shows its charged, flip the switch back, and weld.
Here is quick video showing the cap charge time with a 470 ohm resistor, 24v, 4700uF cap. The video is blurry on purpose so you can actually see the display, and the cap doesn't ever charge to set voltage it is consistently 0.1v short.
)Swapped out the momentary button and LED for another DPDT rocker. I couldn't find a momentary DPDT rocker locally, but I really like how it turned out with the normal rocker switch. Just set the wanted voltage, flip the switch until the display shows its charged, flip the switch back, and weld.
Here is quick video showing the cap charge time with a 470 ohm resistor, 24v, 4700uF cap. The video is blurry on purpose so you can actually see the display, and the cap doesn't ever charge to set voltage it is consistently 0.1v short.
Everything seemed to be working OK...except for the fact that I could not get a good weld with the LM2577 setup. I added a second cap and it would not hold the charge. Found that the diode must have fried after I added the second cap.
Put an on/off switch to turn on the LM board and replace the diode with a SPST momentary swich.
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See above... Without a limiting resistor after the diode, you're gonna fry the diode with the extra current required by the larger capacitance.
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Got mine in a box. When I plug the power in, the meter reads in voltage, in this case the battery. When I push the white snap switch it turns on the regulator and the meter reads the output voltage. the small green led is from the led on the board showing it is on. When I push the black push button the meter shows a drop in voltage and then back up to the set voltage and the caps are charged. Still working on my wire jig, but I have gotten better with practice. Clic pic for video..
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