BJ....what no lipo cutoff.... Looks good
Yea it still needs a master switch, no pilot can fly without a master switch.
Also a toggle for the cap voltage. I like your changeable caps also, didn't find any din plugs in my old RC stuff.- Status
Yea it still needs a master switch, no pilot can fly without a master switch.
Also a toggle for the cap voltage. I like your changeable caps also, didn't find any din plugs in my old RC stuff.
Thanks dsy5! So from the original design, I need to move my charge switch and drop the diode like this?:
Battery + => On/Off Switch => Fuse => 3.6 Ohm Resistor => LM2577 => Charge Switch => 2 X Caps
Yes but I would also do this:
Battery + => On/Off Switch => Fuse => LM2577 => 470 Ohm resistor => Charge Switch => 2 X Caps
You don't really need that 3.6Ω resistor (although it probably wouldn't hurt to leave it, but not needed). The 470Ω resistor will limit the current flow without sacrificing too much delay in charging of the cap.
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Yea it still needs a master switch, no pilot can fly without a master switch.
I was thinking you could buy a standalone lipo cut off but I didn't see anything but the alarms at hobby king. Yeah I had a ton of the deans connectors since everything pretty much went to the XT-60 connector and I swapped everything over a while back. But my stash is dwindling since I use them for anything I can
The changeable caps is a nice feature, but there is a limit to the charge that will sufficiently connect the wires. Too much, and the metal simply melts (in an exploding kind of way). Once selected properly, the charge to the caps can be regulated by the amount of voltage applied by the charge button. I don't feel that the actual voltage for a weld really makes much difference.
Using the touch method I couldn't get any good welds using over 4700uF. I tried a bunch of different cap/volt combinations and my best so far is 24v 4700uF, but I haven't had time to experiment with lower capacitance yet.
When I was bonking...two 4700uf caps at 27v created really strong wide welds, but was even more inconsistent then touching.
Not sure why exactly there was such a difference???
Just a guess, but the base you were using was probably shorting much of the charge away. Electricity will take the path of least resistance every time.
Possibly but copper wire was insulated in the base and I tried to keep then from touching??? Idk, but I think I'm done bonking for now.
Maybe jumping right to the copper wire itself? I'm kinda suprised that the wires didn't fuse to the copper.
Maybe I missed something following the thread.
I've got mine setup the way you describe below but with just 1x 1,000uF cap. I'm getting good welds but I'm curious if I should add another 1k cap?
I've got mine setup the way you describe below but with just 1x 1,000uF cap. I'm getting good welds but I'm curious if I should add another 1k cap?
I would say if it works then there is no need to mess with it.
Hey,
Awesome project here and awesome progress!
I ordered the parts from digikey as outlined in the tutorial posted by gsa here.
I'd like to have a little more control to go above the 35V limitation of the lm2577.
Can I safely use the same components as in gsa's build but just replace it with another DC DC step up board without any risks (I'm good at building stuff but not so much in the engineering part).
Like the one going up to 42V listed here? (I know it's a lot more expensive but I'll avoid the delays in transit from China)
Also, for the tsaf the recommended power settings are:
27 Volts for wires 0.13 - 0.16
31 Volts for wires 0.17 - 0.18
35 Volts for wires 0.2 - 0.23
41 Volts for thicker
What about mixed gauges? Anyone tried? I'd like to weld 0.16mm Kanthal with 0.20mm 99.9% Silver
Many thanks for your help!
Awesome project here and awesome progress!
I ordered the parts from digikey as outlined in the tutorial posted by gsa here.
I'd like to have a little more control to go above the 35V limitation of the lm2577.
Can I safely use the same components as in gsa's build but just replace it with another DC DC step up board without any risks (I'm good at building stuff but not so much in the engineering part).
Like the one going up to 42V listed here? (I know it's a lot more expensive but I'll avoid the delays in transit from China)
Also, for the tsaf the recommended power settings are:
27 Volts for wires 0.13 - 0.16
31 Volts for wires 0.17 - 0.18
35 Volts for wires 0.2 - 0.23
41 Volts for thicker
What about mixed gauges? Anyone tried? I'd like to weld 0.16mm Kanthal with 0.20mm 99.9% Silver
Many thanks for your help!
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I built mine with this 42v. and 50v caps.
DC 4 5 32V to 5 42V Wide Voltage Regulator Step Up Converter Boost Power Supply | eBay
DC 4 5 32V to 5 42V Wide Voltage Regulator Step Up Converter Boost Power Supply | eBay
I used 1/4 watt I believe....but that was what I had and not sure if I should have used larger.
Well going bigger is not going to hurt you unless you strapped for room in your box, or the price is prohibitive.
Yeah what he said....sorry I'm no help...hopefully some who knows what they are talking about will let you know....I bought an assortment pack at radio shack one day, now I have box full and it take for effing ever for me figure out the color code and find a gd thing
- Status
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