couple things ive found about the eVIC.....
the NEW STYLE HEADS WITH THE SCREWS sometimes have problems just "shutting down". this is due to problems with the little screws that hold the unit together. i have aseveral, and ive noticed now on 3 different NEW STYLE WITH SCREWS heads that they will do one of two things. they will work for awhile (I.E. several days to several months, no set length of time of course) and then all of the sudden they will just "shut off" and wont turn back on , OR you will be using them out of the box and after a few heavy long vapes and the unit warms up it will shut off and wont come back on. once it cools down, it will restart, but only after cooling.
ive found that these two problems are due to the screws being cranked down to far/hard from the factory. every single one ive had to these things has been the new style heads with the screws. i take the battery out, take the collar ring off and loosen the screws about 3-4 turns and then retighten them, but JUST SEAT THEM. problem solved.
another issue that ive found/seen with both the newer AND older heads is after awhile ( from 2-3 days after unboxing it to several months) is that all of the sudden, no matter what 510 based tank/carto you put on it it will start saying "atomizer short"... what this is from is the crappy rubber insulator that joyetech uses it insulate center pin in the 510 connection. it is the same white rubber that alot of tank manufactures use to insulate the center pin on their gear. the rubber formulation is such that after awhile of heating and cooling, just like most rubbers it starts to dry out and crack, and eventually the top ring on the rubber will shear and come completely off. hard to tell because looking thru the top of the 510 connection it looks as if the rubber is still attached as it sits under the pin like a rubber band. problem is when you tighten a tank/carto/ect onto it, it squishes it down just enough that the thing grounds out and activates the atomizer short protection in the unit, which is a good thing cause you dont burn the head up, and its an easy fix. hard to see it because when you take the tank off, it is rubber of course and it snaps back making it look as if everythings good.
get yourself a pair of tweezers ,reach in and pull the center pin completely up. dont pull to hard, theres only about 1/2"-3/4" of thin red wire under there!...unsolder the red wire from the center pin and put it to the side. now heres the tricky part. get yourself another rubber insulator.the ones that are originally used by joyetech ae the white style like they use on the burner coils of the protank or vivi nova depending on where yu buy your burners they can be two different styles, short or long...DONT USE ETHER as if you do, youll eventually have to do this all over again....what i did is dug into my parts bin and pulled out a messed up iSmoka Mega coil and pulled the CLEAR THICKER INSULATING RUBBER off the bottom. its thicker all the way around, and its a PERFECT DIAMETER FIT to the inside of the 510 connection. now for some, this is the tricky part. youll need to thread the red wire thru the center of the rubber insulator, seat the insulator and solder the red wire back onto the center pin, all without pushing the red wire back into the units head. what i did is i used a small set of forceps , generally used by fishermen to hold dry flies, take out tiny hooks from fishes mouths,ect. they are about 4" long and have almost a needle point on them. after slipping the rubber insulator (remeber, tapered side down) onto the red wire protruding from the top of your eVIC, youll want to lightly clamp the wire with the foreceps to hold it out of the eVICs head.use your tweezers to hold the center pin and solder it bac onto the wire.remeber dont "oversolder". dont subject the wire to heat for too long or youll melt the insulation on the wire and likely have a short later.heat up the solder thats already on the center pin and move your center pin to the wire. tap it just long enough for the solder to melt and stick the wire on. blow on it real quick to solidify the solder. remove your forceps from the wire as the pins back in place, so the wires not going to slip back inside the head now. the hardest part of this whole operation is getting the rubber insulator back into the eVICs head. i fought with it for about 15 minutes and what i ended up doing is centering the rubber as best as i could with the taper in the hole and installing a tank that the center pin protruded a little bit on and it pushed the rubber back into the proper location. i only did this as a last resort as i could not get the rubber back in the hole to save my life!. now if you use a rubber insulator off of the iSmoka mega coil as i did, like i said, youll notice that its a perfect fit to the inside of the 510 connection, but youll also notice that its a it THICKER, wich makes it a bit harder to install a tank on, but like it that way as it gives the center pin more of a spring up to get into the base of the make connection on the tank. all this worked great for me, your mileage may vary.
i will post another little how to in the future when i get around to it, and thats how to replace the complete center 510 conection in your eVIC if the threads just happen to wear out (like the majority do)
