It's not that the AGA is a bad rba, it's just that the stupid nuts are way too tiny. And mine always seem to be loose no matter how much I tighten them. Oh and it's FUGLY. I will do a jig if this improves upon that.
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I just hold the wire at the tension I want it while screwing it closed. If that sounds hard, with appropriate sized hardware, then you need to spend the best 12 bucks of your rba life.
edit: there was supposed to be a picture of the siam 510 stand, makes rebuilding so much better.
That and it's a pain to thread them back on the post. These, on the richman, are not bad and I would be honest. I sold my AGA rather than deal with it, it wasn't worth it to me, not worth the $14 I paid in a coop for it.
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Been working hard shipping all the RBA's out. Thanks everyone for the support. 
Vape mail today! Haven’t had the opportunity to actually use the RBA yet, but had a bit of time to play with it. As others have said, it’s not perfect in terms of fit and finish. Mine has several marks in the finish, and small chips at the top and bottom edges of the tank (both the one installed and the extra tank I purchased). Small amount of tilt to the post as well.
I’m not upset about that – I was not expecting pristine fit and finish given the price point. Still, a bit better QC would have been nice, and hopefully that will improve in the future.
I have to say I am a just a bit miffed, however, about the drip tip. I specifically asked in this thread (post 44) if the drip tip finish was the same as the RBA. Rich answered (post 45) and said it would be “similar.” I don’t see any similarity at all – the drip tip is a standard stainless polished tip. It’s not a bad tip, but I only shelled out the $ for it because I was told it would be a similar finish. I don’t see any similarity between a polished stainless and a satin RBA.
The RBA finish matches well to that of a Legacy (see pic). Looking forward to the first build on it tonight.
I’m not upset about that – I was not expecting pristine fit and finish given the price point. Still, a bit better QC would have been nice, and hopefully that will improve in the future.
I have to say I am a just a bit miffed, however, about the drip tip. I specifically asked in this thread (post 44) if the drip tip finish was the same as the RBA. Rich answered (post 45) and said it would be “similar.” I don’t see any similarity at all – the drip tip is a standard stainless polished tip. It’s not a bad tip, but I only shelled out the $ for it because I was told it would be a similar finish. I don’t see any similarity between a polished stainless and a satin RBA.
The RBA finish matches well to that of a Legacy (see pic). Looking forward to the first build on it tonight.
yeah, don't get me wrong, I'm not upset about my RM just wanted to let everyone know what to expect.
I didn't even get a response from rich.
I didn't even get a response from rich.
Got mine today
Looks good
It did not come with any instructions or advice
Is this similar to the Genesis
Should I look for that on U tube or Google?
Thanks
Looks good
It did not come with any instructions or advice
Is this similar to the Genesis
Should I look for that on U tube or Google?
Thanks
This method set me going with my Aga-T2, same is applicable with the R/M Genny too... Just do everything ditto and u'd be fine, I was.
After taking my copper pipe mod to a bench grinder's wire brush wheel, I'm seriously considering doing that to the Richman's RBA when it arrives in a few days. I'll go through a tank or two first and see if the matte SS look works for me. I don't have a matte finish mod and I'm not planning on getting one just for one RBA. I'm looking forward to your mod/hibrid in the future evosil98, and matching driptips of course. 
I don't mind the AGAT+'s tiny nuts so much, but I've already had one strip out (between the top and bottom) and the other only holds on by one or two threads. The connection between the bottom and top threads on fine without a tank tube, but I'm going to have to sand the tubes down shorter to be able to screw these *&$#^%@ RBA's together without leaks. The nuts on top of the center post are doing all the work now. I've used the stock polycarb tube and 3 different glass or quartz tubes from various vendors. All are the same height, so the problem is the same with the whole lot. Removing the tube's o-rings lets one more thread catch, but that would leak and it's a long way from being screwed down all the way. Bad QC on 2 AGAT+'s is not forgivable.
I'm hoping for much better luck with the QC on the Richman's RBA. I have 7 glass tubes for the AGA T (3 are painted), if they fit the Richman's RBA that would be pretty sweet. Has anyone tried this yet?
I don't mind the AGAT+'s tiny nuts so much, but I've already had one strip out (between the top and bottom) and the other only holds on by one or two threads. The connection between the bottom and top threads on fine without a tank tube, but I'm going to have to sand the tubes down shorter to be able to screw these *&$#^%@ RBA's together without leaks. The nuts on top of the center post are doing all the work now. I've used the stock polycarb tube and 3 different glass or quartz tubes from various vendors. All are the same height, so the problem is the same with the whole lot. Removing the tube's o-rings lets one more thread catch, but that would leak and it's a long way from being screwed down all the way. Bad QC on 2 AGAT+'s is not forgivable.
I'm hoping for much better luck with the QC on the Richman's RBA. I have 7 glass tubes for the AGA T (3 are painted), if they fit the Richman's RBA that would be pretty sweet. Has anyone tried this yet?
After taking my copper pipe mod to a bench grinder's wire brush wheel, I'm seriously considering doing that to the Richman's RBA when it arrives in a few days. I'll go through a tank or two first and see if the matte SS look works for me. I don't have a matte finish mod and I'm not planning on getting one just for one RBA. I'm looking forward to your mod/hibrid in the future evosil98, and matching driptips of course.
I don't mind the AGAT+'s tiny nuts so much, but I've already had one strip out (between the top and bottom) and the other only holds on by one or two threads. The connection between the bottom and top threads on fine without a tank tube, but I'm going to have to sand the tubes down shorter to be able to screw these *&$#^%@ RBA's together without leaks. The nuts on top of the center post are doing all the work now. I've used the stock polycarb tube and 3 different glass or quartz tubes from various vendors. All are the same height, so the problem is the same with the whole lot. Removing the tube's o-rings lets one more thread catch, but that would leak and it's a long way from being screwed down all the way. Bad QC on 2 AGAT+'s is not forgivable.
I'm hoping for much better luck with the QC on the Richman's RBA. I have 7 glass tubes for the AGA T (3 are painted), if they fit the Richman's RBA that would be pretty sweet. Has anyone tried this yet?
Schnarph, I read ur post twice, yet I've no idea what u r talking about. Pardon my poor English!
Did my first build on it. Nice to work with. VERY much appreciate the large size nuts (although I still ended up dropping one and having to search around for it).
I really like the gasket system for the tank. Instead of regular o-rings, it has a flanged gasket on the top and bottom. Plus, it eliminates any issue with the small chips on the edge of the glass tank that mine came with.
On the downside, if one wears out (or, in my case, I lose it), you can’t just hop over to Home Depot to get a replacement. The spares kit with the RBA comes with only one replacement tank flange. Wish it came with a set of two!
Air hole is just right - I don’t feel the need to drill it out. The wick hole could be a touch larger, however.
Bottom line: should one come out with a different finish, I’d buy another. If it came with a spring/washer on the post instead of a nut, I’d buy two!
I really like the gasket system for the tank. Instead of regular o-rings, it has a flanged gasket on the top and bottom. Plus, it eliminates any issue with the small chips on the edge of the glass tank that mine came with.
On the downside, if one wears out (or, in my case, I lose it), you can’t just hop over to Home Depot to get a replacement. The spares kit with the RBA comes with only one replacement tank flange. Wish it came with a set of two!
Air hole is just right - I don’t feel the need to drill it out. The wick hole could be a touch larger, however.
Bottom line: should one come out with a different finish, I’d buy another. If it came with a spring/washer on the post instead of a nut, I’d buy two!
The first paragraph should be clear enough, if not I'll have some pictures posted here when I get my RichMan's RBA this weekend.
The problem I'm having with AGAT+ RBA's is screwing the bottom metal section to the top metal section. With a stock polycarbonate or replacement glass/quarts tube in the middle, the threads don't catch enough for a secure fit. When trying to screw it together, it just spins and spins. The only thing keeping the unit from falling apart are the tiny nuts on the positive post. Without the tank tube, the threading is fine, but it's essentially useless. It's as if it was meant to use tank tubes that are 5mm shorter. You might need one to completely understand the problem. If you don't have an AGAT, I wouldn't expect you to understand, it's OK.
Finally, I'm haven't seen the specs on the ID, OD, and height of the glass/quarts tubes used in a RichMan's RBA. I am hoping the size is close enough to that used by AGAT RBA's, and was wondering if anyone knows more about this.
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Got that, now
Prolly urs is having a QC issue, I didn't come across this snag ever mentioned elsewhere. And as I understand, till Aga-T+ stage there were some inconsistencies, which pretty much vanished with the Aga-T2 and beyond.
I have the Aga-T2.2, the one with 'gaskets' holding the pyrex tank, the one with an additional wick-hole and the one whose wick-hole has a tad larger dia.
I've dismantled my Aga-T2.2 multiple times - and it's SS top-cap (of the pyrex tank) screw into it snug-fit. The grooved threads on the glass tank top and the SS cap r both enough as well as buttery smooth. The centre post only slides thru it, the capped tank unit being an indigenous whole.
And the knurled screws (qty-3) r just used to tight fit the POS to the SS top-cap (and off course to contain the +ve end of the coil). I also find the positive post to be grooved all along -- entirely, from bottom till its top end. Overall I find the Aga-T2.2 a very well designed RBA.
Am I talking sense ppl?
Picture of my Aga-T2.2 from an earlier post... the problem was solved later
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Got mine today; wicked it up and it looks just dandy on top of the ice matte roller. My only minor complaint is that apparently they let a gorilla tighten down one of the screws, but I did eventually get that one loose. Need to order a couple more of these...
Need to order a couple more of these...
wow... i would LOVE to have a brushed or polished finish! please make it happen lol
regardless, saved your site for future purchase
regardless, saved your site for future purchase
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