I'm old enough to remember when Japanese products were mocked, then Hong Kong, then Korean.
Today, Japan and Korea make the best batteries, televisions, etc. It's just China's turn to get kicked in the booty.
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Today, Japan and Korea make the best batteries, televisions, etc. It's just China's turn to get kicked in the booty.
That's the only way to do it, have to give it the old "trust but verify". I have a couple of buddies coming over with some mods and voltmeters, going to see how things go. I did test a SMOK steam mini and a vaporshark 30w, they're single batteries but they are showing right. Did retest the other mod and at lower wattage things lined up but as the wattage was raised, the voltage increased on screen didn't line up with meter again. So it very well may be a bad board or the heat messing with the meter, I honestly don't know, we're going to see what we can come up with.
The one not showing right has had a history and the company's got a reputation so that could be the problem. The bad part is the amp pull at that voltage and it doesn't cut off, since it doesn't "see" what's really going on.
And I'd claim that they do a very good job in many areas. Clearly, no other country can touch them in mods. For the price, the overall quality is quite good.
Sent from my Thor E using Tapatalk
This has been interesting. FWIW, I do think it unethical and at least potentially dangerous. But I also think that's what Caveat Emptor is all about. If I sell a car, I won't guarantee it has a wheel on each corner. The buyer has to count them himself. Now, sometimes I do make specific representations about things I sell, and when I do these are as honest and as accurate as I can make them. But the general principle holds, I think.
Much like me here I buy a mod that I know will never use it at full wattage (Eleaf 40 W TC) but my tanks are Nautilus Mini and I never set them higher than 12 W usually around 11.7 W and happy at that. One time got one in mail and put a tank on it and went to vape but it was set at 40 W so burned out one of my coils. I can't image needing over 200W for anything. Even my DIY e liquid wouldn't like the higher wattage settings so why bother? Well I like my small mods and tanks ......have daily 6 of them going with different flavours. This works for me but I know it is not what others like.
I am not sure why, but since I started to DIY about two years ago, I get an "overly" cooked taste rather quickly. I don't really think that it is the flavorings since I use all brands. But, in response to it I have lowered my wattage down to the 11.5-12.5w range. I still get something of a coil crackle so I don't get much coil residue, but it just seems that my flavor is more palatable. My PG, VG, and nic have come from different vendors so I can't see that as the issue, either. It may be that I need to try a different brand of taste buds...
As to mods, like much of anything else, a company tries to keep its costs low and that influences things, especially when it comes to safety. If I ever buy one again, it will not be so much, "what do I want", as "what is best" at the time with a look to its characteristics and track record. I guess watts is not a considered characteristic.
As to mods, like much of anything else, a company tries to keep its costs low and that influences things, especially when it comes to safety. If I ever buy one again, it will not be so much, "what do I want", as "what is best" at the time with a look to its characteristics and track record. I guess watts is not a considered characteristic.
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Vaping over 20W is too much for me and my e liquids I make myself. I make them for two reasons; cost and knowing exactly what is in the mix (minor concerns are the extracts) Like you I vape around 11.7 to 12 W any more just ruins the flavorI am not sure why, but since I started to DIY about two years ago, I get an "overly" cooked taste rather quickly. I don't really think that it is the flavorings since I use all brands. But, in response to it I have lowered my wattage down to the 11.5-12.5w range. I still get something of a coil crackle so I don't get much coil residue, but it just seems that my flavor is more palatable. My PG, VG, and nic have come from different vendors so I can't see that as the issue, either. It may be that I need to try a different brand of taste buds...
As others here have stated, I don't vape at any of these extreme levels.
I have an iPV5 that is supposed to manage 200W (if you do the magic tweak that breaks the 75W ceiling) and a few iStick 100Ws. (All of which I got dirt cheap.)
I have settled on a simple, straightforward ~0.60 ohm coil of round Kanthal (7 turns on a 3.0mm jig, spaced) in the Augvape Merlins I have fallen in love with (Thanks, Roxie!).
Best flavor is always somewhere between 11 and at most 15W, depending on the juice. Anything above that quickly starts to taste burned.
I couldn't care less about clouds of vapor. I want to taste the vape, not watch it.
Juice lasts longer, batteries last longer, vape tastes better. What's not to love?
I suppose have 100W or 200W in the write-up sells better, but all I want out of a mod box is dependability.
I have an iPV5 that is supposed to manage 200W (if you do the magic tweak that breaks the 75W ceiling) and a few iStick 100Ws. (All of which I got dirt cheap.)
I have settled on a simple, straightforward ~0.60 ohm coil of round Kanthal (7 turns on a 3.0mm jig, spaced) in the Augvape Merlins I have fallen in love with (Thanks, Roxie!).
Best flavor is always somewhere between 11 and at most 15W, depending on the juice. Anything above that quickly starts to taste burned.
I couldn't care less about clouds of vapor. I want to taste the vape, not watch it.
Juice lasts longer, batteries last longer, vape tastes better. What's not to love?
I suppose have 100W or 200W in the write-up sells better, but all I want out of a mod box is dependability.
It is true that different countries have different rules and regulations.
But not all of them habitually ship mislabeled or fraudulently labeled goods to other countries which are in violation of those country's rules.
The U.S. can ship anything it wants to to Europe or anywhere else so long as those goods are in compliance with the import regulations of those countries. If they were shipping goods which were not with any regularity I suspect we'd be hearing about it from the EU.
Such complaints do not seem to be apparent, as they are with non-compliant goods being shipped out of China.
China is just our best friend and our worst enemy combined. We can't totally love OR hate them and we rely on each other for so much.
I'm trying to think of that kid's book called "My best enemy" but I can't find it... .It's really old, and I think first published in Britain, but I can't find it anywhere. It was a great book.
Anna
I'm trying to think of that kid's book called "My best enemy" but I can't find it... .It's really old, and I think first published in Britain, but I can't find it anywhere. It was a great book.
Anna
Yeah, I old enough to remember a lot of junk Japanese toys made out of Budweiser cans. They didn't even remove the paint off them.
I have been very curious about this phenomenon of overstated output power in vape mods since the Sigelei 213 blunder. I documented myself about the state of retail in the Far East region, and from what I understand the customers are driven, for their purchases, by two factors which have been tamed here since a long time.
The two factors are: "Impulse buy" and "Mine is bigger" ; the first is of personal importance, the second is socially relevant.
Doesn't matter if the mod can truly deliver the stated 213 Watts (the Sigelei 213 delivers 140 W at max), the social push has an overwhelming importance there, and the attitude is well exploited by the vape manufacturers and sellers.
BTW. The only two-cells mod capable of delivering 200 W are the Yihi Q class and G class, when I use the correct 1500 mAh battery. All the other "budget" mods use are limited by the wrong ferrite core in the switcher circuitry, and by an underspecified output MOSFET pair.
I agree that the most relevant argument here is the adherence to the specs, not the "excessive" power. As others in this thread, I don't agree to additional regulations, it can only be bad. It would be enough that manufacturers would follow existing safety regulation, by inserting a fuse in series with the battery: while it is mandatory in nearly all regional safety regulations (CE, FCC, etc.) only an handful of mod brands (Innokin, Yihi, etc al.) provide a fuse (or a fuse resistor); the rest of the mod makers being happy to demonstrate how the theory of the catastrophies can develop.
Another sore point, mentioned by a poster in this thread. The majority of mods shows voltage and power on their display as they read the values from a look-up table stored in the ROM, therefore when the output circuit fails to provide the 200 W displayed because the transformer core is saturated, the user fails to notice it, too.
Real-time measurements are present in the top three, and they all reach the advertised power, too.
Last thing I like to mention here, it is the role of reviewers. Vape gear is not beta-tested, there is a despicable lack of literature both for servicing and instructional, and the turnover is frankly excessive.
Therefore reviewers play a role unseen for other manufact (how many hairdryers reviews on YouTube?) and manufacturers give them great importance.
There are too many jewels of the type: "I cannot explain why the 2000 mah battery in the J150 lasts so much longer than the battery of the J80, which also is 2000 mah".
This guy doesn't know the very basics of electricity... It also explains why eLeaf did something blatantly incorrect, by declaring as 5000 mah the 1650 mah 3s LiPo battery in their Istick 200 QC... to protect themselves from this type of reviewers.
They damage the vape as whole, we should down vote ignorant reviews, as it is the only possible improvement we can provide.
Reviews cannot be complacent, otherwise... Otherwise we have the majority of 200 W mods not giving the stated power (the 200 Qc give 175 W max, BTW), and I do not even start to talk about temperature control.
Complacent reviewers are a problem to vaping, more than what you may think.
I wasn't expecting to write a wall of text, but I am fed up beyond recovery by the amount of misrepresentation in the vape world; it is of little consolation to see I'm not alone.
EDIT: Spaced the paragraphs somewhat.
The two factors are: "Impulse buy" and "Mine is bigger" ; the first is of personal importance, the second is socially relevant.
Doesn't matter if the mod can truly deliver the stated 213 Watts (the Sigelei 213 delivers 140 W at max), the social push has an overwhelming importance there, and the attitude is well exploited by the vape manufacturers and sellers.
BTW. The only two-cells mod capable of delivering 200 W are the Yihi Q class and G class, when I use the correct 1500 mAh battery. All the other "budget" mods use are limited by the wrong ferrite core in the switcher circuitry, and by an underspecified output MOSFET pair.
I agree that the most relevant argument here is the adherence to the specs, not the "excessive" power. As others in this thread, I don't agree to additional regulations, it can only be bad. It would be enough that manufacturers would follow existing safety regulation, by inserting a fuse in series with the battery: while it is mandatory in nearly all regional safety regulations (CE, FCC, etc.) only an handful of mod brands (Innokin, Yihi, etc al.) provide a fuse (or a fuse resistor); the rest of the mod makers being happy to demonstrate how the theory of the catastrophies can develop.
Another sore point, mentioned by a poster in this thread. The majority of mods shows voltage and power on their display as they read the values from a look-up table stored in the ROM, therefore when the output circuit fails to provide the 200 W displayed because the transformer core is saturated, the user fails to notice it, too.
Real-time measurements are present in the top three, and they all reach the advertised power, too.
Last thing I like to mention here, it is the role of reviewers. Vape gear is not beta-tested, there is a despicable lack of literature both for servicing and instructional, and the turnover is frankly excessive.
Therefore reviewers play a role unseen for other manufact (how many hairdryers reviews on YouTube?) and manufacturers give them great importance.
There are too many jewels of the type: "I cannot explain why the 2000 mah battery in the J150 lasts so much longer than the battery of the J80, which also is 2000 mah".
This guy doesn't know the very basics of electricity... It also explains why eLeaf did something blatantly incorrect, by declaring as 5000 mah the 1650 mah 3s LiPo battery in their Istick 200 QC... to protect themselves from this type of reviewers.
They damage the vape as whole, we should down vote ignorant reviews, as it is the only possible improvement we can provide.
Reviews cannot be complacent, otherwise... Otherwise we have the majority of 200 W mods not giving the stated power (the 200 Qc give 175 W max, BTW), and I do not even start to talk about temperature control.
Complacent reviewers are a problem to vaping, more than what you may think.
I wasn't expecting to write a wall of text, but I am fed up beyond recovery by the amount of misrepresentation in the vape world; it is of little consolation to see I'm not alone.
EDIT: Spaced the paragraphs somewhat.
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Double space your paragraphs. Makes wall of text easier to read. Oh, trust me, I'm experienced in both matters, both reading them and writing them. LOL.
It was an interesting post but it can be hard to follow without white space.
Anna
It was an interesting post but it can be hard to follow without white space.
Anna
I'm having real good luck with my mods that I have bought over the years. 2 Provaris almost 5 years and still going. 2 Sigelei ZMax's (late 2013) that have wonky power button that always popped the menu up so they sat in a drawer until last fall when I took one apart and with a couple dots of electrical tape I have 2 new mods that haven't skipped yet.
IPV2(late 2013)that doesn't stepdown so fresh batt vapes are harsh but still using it. Couple of DNA30 aluminum homebuilt boxes(mid 2015) I bought super cheap in a auction, ones still NIB and the other still using it daily. IStick100TC (2014) that my wife used well over a year and half till I thought the threads getting tired cause the atty wobbled to find a slider under the 510 connection was loose inside the body, bit of copper tape to secure so tight threads again. I also have bout a dozen NIB mods that scored super cheap last summer tucked away for that rainy day
My vape habit is almost always less than 20 watts. 14 to be exact to fire my 1.4Ω 30/34 clapton. Already done the sub ohm but like the higher ohm builds to regularly vape.
IPV2(late 2013)that doesn't stepdown so fresh batt vapes are harsh but still using it. Couple of DNA30 aluminum homebuilt boxes(mid 2015) I bought super cheap in a auction, ones still NIB and the other still using it daily. IStick100TC (2014) that my wife used well over a year and half till I thought the threads getting tired cause the atty wobbled to find a slider under the 510 connection was loose inside the body, bit of copper tape to secure so tight threads again. I also have bout a dozen NIB mods that scored super cheap last summer tucked away for that rainy day
My vape habit is almost always less than 20 watts. 14 to be exact to fire my 1.4Ω 30/34 clapton. Already done the sub ohm but like the higher ohm builds to regularly vape.
I agree it is dangerous. Not for me and many of you, but I am assuming there are lots of younger vapers out there that HAVE to try their new mod the 257w, 350w, 400w or whatever listed max wattage just because. Building super low with two 18650s is dangerous, but with four it is idiotic.
I vape a bit at 100w, but almost always I vape at 50-55w/0.4-0.5ohms. Even then, I go thru 2-3 sets of batteries a day. If you didnt blow yourself up vaping your dual eFests at 260w, what the hell would the battery life be like anyways?
I vape a bit at 100w, but almost always I vape at 50-55w/0.4-0.5ohms. Even then, I go thru 2-3 sets of batteries a day. If you didnt blow yourself up vaping your dual eFests at 260w, what the hell would the battery life be like anyways?
Most (or all people) commenting are obviously seasoned vapers and realize the ridiculous claims being made. But I do thing that Sonicbombs real concern is 100% valid- that NEW VAPERS will NOTt understand the dangers of vaping or trying to vape at these ridiculous wattage.
Just an accident waiting to happen.
Just an accident waiting to happen.
How are newbies going to be vaping at 200 watts on these mods if these mods don't go to 200 watts?
I look at these mods just like I do modern truck engines. I'm a trucker, and a 425 hp used to be a different motor than a 500 hp. Now it's all computer controlled. You can buy a 425 and pay them to upgrade it to a 450 or whatever you want. They just plug it into a computer and change the parameters. You give them the number off the engine and they will tell you how high you can go.
Granted, some of these mods are overstating what they can do under any circumstances, but some of them are stating the realistic limitations of the chip. Since they're not supplying you with batteries, they can't really tell you what the mod can do with your specific preferred brand. They can only tell you the maximum that the chip can do no matter what battery you may find to pair with it. If someone produces a 50 amp, 3500 mah battery tomorrow, that chip still won't go over 200 watts. Thus, it is a 200 watt mod.
Now as for new vapers and practical purposes, 2 battery mods are basically 170 watt mods with the best cells you can buy. It doesn't really matter if you know that or not, that's just all that the mod can do. You can set it at 200 watts, and perhaps you will think you are vaping at 200 watts, but you're not. There's no danger in thinking about your batteries doing more than they can safely do, so if the mod is preventing the user from actually hitting 200 watts with 2 cells, what is the danger there? Other than trying the above with mismatched or underrated batteries, of course.
I look at these mods just like I do modern truck engines. I'm a trucker, and a 425 hp used to be a different motor than a 500 hp. Now it's all computer controlled. You can buy a 425 and pay them to upgrade it to a 450 or whatever you want. They just plug it into a computer and change the parameters. You give them the number off the engine and they will tell you how high you can go.
Granted, some of these mods are overstating what they can do under any circumstances, but some of them are stating the realistic limitations of the chip. Since they're not supplying you with batteries, they can't really tell you what the mod can do with your specific preferred brand. They can only tell you the maximum that the chip can do no matter what battery you may find to pair with it. If someone produces a 50 amp, 3500 mah battery tomorrow, that chip still won't go over 200 watts. Thus, it is a 200 watt mod.
Now as for new vapers and practical purposes, 2 battery mods are basically 170 watt mods with the best cells you can buy. It doesn't really matter if you know that or not, that's just all that the mod can do. You can set it at 200 watts, and perhaps you will think you are vaping at 200 watts, but you're not. There's no danger in thinking about your batteries doing more than they can safely do, so if the mod is preventing the user from actually hitting 200 watts with 2 cells, what is the danger there? Other than trying the above with mismatched or underrated batteries, of course.
China is just our best friend and our worst enemy combined. We can't totally love OR hate them and we rely on each other for so much.
I'm trying to think of that kid's book called "My best enemy" but I can't find it... .It's really old, and I think first published in Britain, but I can't find it anywhere. It was a great book.
Anna
“My Best Enemy” might refer to the pulp fiction by Nicole Chrisite, then theres films “My Best Enemy” based on the WWII story (comedy) from Austria, not sure its in english.?
LOL for any of them
All the mods that cost around 100 - 200 bucks are ridiculous to me.
I'm sure many work great, but so do many of the $50 mods. I have an old SX mini that I splurged on, it's great but no more so then my pico. In fact my 80W Pico is my everyday mod still.
I'm sure many work great, but so do many of the $50 mods. I have an old SX mini that I splurged on, it's great but no more so then my pico. In fact my 80W Pico is my everyday mod still.
I couldn’t agree more, the best mod I’ve ever used is the Smoant Cylon. It was $42 and it’s built right and performs excellent. Best money I ever spent.
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