rx200 switching to watts mode from SS

[aalmosawi]

hello.

I have bought and i am sure 100% of it to be SS 316L wire. 26gauge.

I have wrapped it in a spaced manner and put it on my troll rda.

when i goto switch it to Temp SS on the rx200 and begin firing it switches to wattage.

Is it true that the wire needs to be spaced for SS temp to work?

 

[Tonkpils]

The RX200 has a crappy 510 connection and only works with short 510 (like wismec atty's) and can be damaged by longer 510 connections (pushed the centerpin of the mods 510 down and it wont pop back up). This would cause a crappy connection and a change of ohms causing the mod to switch over to wattage mode. If this is the case you can try to pry it back up but im not sure how much success people are having with that.

 

[TechnoGeek]

Yes, it needs to be spaced. Did you lock the resistance?

The way TC works is the mod has a table that correlates the resistance of the wire, to actual temperature. So, the mod knows the room temperature/mod temperature thru a sensor, but doesn't really know the temperature of the wire....It guesses based on the change in the resistance of the wire as it heats up, which is why you have to lockthe resistance at room temperature. This means do NOT vape in wattage mode, getting the coil/s hot and then try setting up temperature mode, it will NOT work right. So, start this with a COLD coil. Hope this helps...

Here are directions I found for RX200 resistance locking....
Resistance Locking:

With your atomizer attached to the device and the device turned on:

• Press and hold the Fire Button and the Up Button at the same time for 5 seconds.
• The screen will adjust to display a padlock next to the ohms instead of the ohms symbol.

To Unlock the resistance, repeat the above sets.

 

[aalmosawi]

hi TechnoGeek.

So i lock the resistance when? after i switch it to Temp SS and select the option it goes to Watts. how can i lock if it returns to wattage mode. i'll give it a shot nevertheless.

furthermore, i dont wanna keep creating threads but the troll doesnt sit flush on the rx200. When i screw the troll on the rx200 its easy to screw in at first then it gets somewhat strong to screw.
This is a NEW just unpackaged rx200
same issue with the Velocity (clone).

see attached pic.

 

[TechnoGeek]

The RX200 has a crappy 510 connection and only works with short 510 (like wismec atty's) and can be damaged by longer 510 connections (pushed the centerpin of the mods 510 down and it wont pop back up). This would cause a crappy connection and a change of ohms causing the mod to switch over to wattage mode. If this is the case you can try to pry it back up but im not sure how much success people are having with that.

While the above is true, and good advice, his issue could also be not locking resistance.....

Also, if the issue IS the 510 pin, and the TROLL RDA, what you can do is take a thin(.5mm - 1mm piece of non-conductive material, cut in the shape of the bottom of your troll rda, and use it as a spacer between the atty and the mod. Anything can work, might not be pretty, but it will work. Thin plastic, rubber, even thin cardboard will work, but get messy from ejuice after a while....

 

[TechnoGeek]

hi TechnoGeek.

So i lock the resistance when? after i switch it to Temp SS and select the option it goes to Watts. how can i lock if it returns to wattage mode. i'll give it a shot nevertheless.

furthermore, i dont wanna keep creating threads but the troll doesn't sit flush on the rx200. When i screw the troll on the rx200 its easy to screw in at first then it gets somewhat strong to screw.
This is a NEW just unpackaged rx200
same issue with the Velocity (clone).

see attached pic.

Ok, do NOT use force to make it sit flat, just finger tight, do not torque it down. refer to my previous post about making/using a spacer. You lock the resistance as soon as you put the atty on.

Are you saying that it jumps right out of tc mode without even pressing the fire button, or does it jump out of tc mode WHEN you press the fire button.

Also, I doubt the 510 is stuck from putting one atty on a brand new rx200, but just check to make sure the 510 pin moves a bit when you press it down with something like a small screwdriver....

 

[puffon]

The VTC Mini has the same shallow 510. I make spacers from water bottle caps.
Also found 316lss works best at .5ohm in TC.

 

[TechnoGeek]

Oh, and one more thing.... If this is brand new, you MAY want to check and update the firmware... With the mod off, press the fire button 20 times quickly, this should display the current firmware(the newest firmware is 3.10). It's a pain to do sometimes, and may take more than one try. Alternatively, you can go to the wismec site with a pc or mac, and download the utility. Once you run it with the RX200 connected to the computer with the provided USB cable, it will tell you your current firmware version. Here is where you can find the link for the firmware utility...

Reuleaux RX200 - Wismec Electronics Co.,Ltd

The links for PC or MAC are at the top the top of the page, download it, extract the contents to a folder, go to that folder and run the executable.... or .pkg for MAC...

Hope this helps....

 

[TechnoGeek]

The VTC Mini has the same shallow 510. I make spacers from water bottle caps.
Also found 316lss works best at .5ohm in TC.

ALSO great points! Yes, TC works better with higher resistance, at least that's my experience as well. IE, does not work as well with super low OHM.... between .4ohm - .5 ohm has always worked better. ....Shouldn't just bounce out, even with lower ohm... BTW, I like the idea of plastic water bottle caps! Great idea!

 

[aalmosawi]

Are you saying that it jumps right out of tc mode without even pressing the fire button, or does it jump out of tc mode WHEN you press the fire button.

i am seeing that once i select Temp SS and select it and it goes back to the main screen it shows wattage mode.
so yes. it jumps right out of tc mode without even pressing fire.

in regards to the crappy 510 connector. my velocity (clone) and my troll (original) are the only ones with this issue.
there is also a slight slant as shown in the pic attached in my previous reply above.

I have put on the rx200 a clone smok tfv4 which sits fully. as well as a subtank mini. also sits fine. and a triton2 which is also ok.

so really i cant use my rdas with this darned thing. i am resorting to my ipv3li. very sad.

 

[TechnoGeek]

i am seeing that once i select Temp SS and select it and it goes back to the main screen it shows wattage mode.
so yes. it jumps right out of tc mode without even pressing fire.

in regards to the crappy 510 connector. my velocity (clone) and my troll (original) are the only ones with this issue.
there is also a slight slant as shown in the pic attached in my previous reply above.

I have put on the rx200 a clone smok tfv4 which sits fully. as well as a subtank mini. also sits fine. and a triton2 which is also ok.

so really i cant use my rdas with this darned thing. i am resorting to my ipv3li. very sad.

Huh... I'm NOT sure what's going on then.... It shouldn't just jump out of TC mode, without even pressing the fire button as far as I know...

I have a Tobeco velocity clone, and an authentic TFv4, and I also have a rx200 but haven't used it much yet. I do use them with the Joyetech Cuboid which does have the same crappy 510 connection. They both sit fine, BUT I have the Gemini by Vapresso which has a long 510 pin, and it does NOT sit flush.... I've never tried to screw it down, I use a spacer.... I use tc with ss316L fused clapton coils all the time, my preferred method to vape....

In any case, check your 510 on the RX200 to make sure it moves when you press it with a small screwdriver or something similar, also make sure it's clean, no ejuice, gunk, etc....anything works, alcohol, etc...same for the pin on the atty, make sure it's clean...

Also, .. can you adjust the 510 pin in on the attys with a problem, screw them in? Are the 510 pins on the attys with the problem flat, ie face of the screw...no nicks, etc, that protrude that would keep the entire face of the screw from making contact with the 510 in the rx200?

Just curious, what resistance are you reading on the build giving you problem?

I'd also check, and update the firmware if needed. The thing is, NONE of these things should make it jump right out of TC mode without even pressing the fire button as far as I know.....

Anyone else? Am I correct? The OPs RX200 switches out of TC mode to wattage mode, without even attempting fie in TC mode....

Ok, time for me to try my RX200... I was waiting for some new batteries, as the RX200 is new to me, and wanted NEW batteries to use it with, but even used un-married batteries should work fine for some brief tests....

 

[TechnoGeek]

Ok...

If you want to make the troublesome attys work, I have a solution that should work....

Good news, and bad news... Even though my Gemini RTA works great on the Cuboid, I was able to reproduce the same issue on the RX200! Here is what I found.... Without a spacer, if you screw the atty down too much it will cause the problem exactly as you described! With the spacer it seems to work much better, but still not 100% as well as the attys that don't need the spacer!
While testing I had two things happen :

The first issue was the mod would go into Temperature Protection IMMEDIATELY as soon as I pressed the fire button! I also noticed, it was displaying the resistance of the previous atty I had on, it never asked if this was a NEW atty/coil. If I switched to wattage mode, it displayed the correct resistance. So, switching between the two modes showed different resistances! The one in TC was WRONG, the one if wattage/power mode was correct.


After I played around with how tight I had the atty on, it then asked if it was a new coil, once I selected yes, then I had the same issue as you!

Playing a bit more, and loosening the atty made it work correctly!

I then did the same procedure with the spacer on, and MOST of the time it just worked, but was sensitive, it seems like the RX200 needs more than a 1mm spacer with the Gemini.....


So, if you want to, you can try some spacers, start around .5mm and work your way up...


and yeah, it sucks! All of mine work GREAT except the Gemini... So,

Tobeco Velocity Clone, SMok TFv4, Griffin, Mutation Xs, Kanger Subtank Mini & nano...

Ironically, the SMOK TFv4 which works fine, is the first one I remember people reporting issues on, and Joyetech saying it would cause a problem and they wouldn't honor warranty if you used it...

 

[Completely Average]

If you're needing a spacer for your RX200 then I highly recommend using a Neoprene Washer.

It's a rubber-like material which gives you a couple of advantages over a hard washer. First, it's compressible so you can get one a little thicker and it will work on a variety of attys with different post lengths. Second, since it's a softer rubber-like material the atty won't rotate and unscrew itself like it would if it was left with no spacer or not tight on to the spacer.

I use one on my RX200. You can see it sitting under my Subtank Mini.

They're about 25 cents each at Lowes and Home Depot.

 

[Tonkpils]

Soo many isticks would still be useable had I thought about using a washer/gasket!