Sabot DDD for the Billet Box

[klee6150]

My partner and I are experiencing something new. We have been using our new Sabots with 3ohm ARO heads in our BBs for about 5 days. We both vape MM Maha Ras. This eliquid is very clear and light red in color. After 2 days in the tank the Maha Ras is very, very dark. This never happened with slotted cartos or the Billet Bridge. The flavor is great and vapor is awesome. I just can't understand why the eliquid is getting so dark.
Any ideas?

 

[ThreeDJ16]

My partner and I are experiencing something new. We have been using our new Sabots with 3ohm ARO heads in our BBs for about 5 days. We both vape MM Maha Ras. This eliquid is very clear and light red in color. After 2 days in the tank the Maha Ras is very, very dark. This never happened with slotted cartos or the Billet Bridge. The flavor is great and vapor is awesome. I just can't understand why the eliquid is getting so dark.
Any ideas?

I have heard several different theories. Such as the spring rusting, which I don't believe after inspecting tanks I have used for a long time with no rust. Probably a SS spring too. This is my theory. Using an RBA like the Sabot, the wick is in direct contact with the juice and coil over a very short distance. Anyone who has looked at a spent wick, especially around the coil, can see it turns black. So I believe this color is leeched back into the tank while your not vaping. And since it doesn't cause any distinct flavor changes and it isn't dangerous, I don't worry about it. But I have seen this for a long, long time due to using the Condor before this. The Diver has a longer distance to travel (longer wick), so can't say I ever noticed it there.

 

[skotsour]

I could use a hand fine-tuning my Sabot. At the moment I am using stock 3.0 ARO heads. I have done nothing at all to the head except screw it into the Sabot. I am currently using a 50/50 blend and alternating between two different flavors in two different tanks. The problem I am having is dry, almost burned (burnt?) hits at anything over 5 on the BB dial. Using a 3.0 carto, I am able to crank it up to 5.25 and sometimes 5.5 without any dry hits. With the ARO head in the Sabot, the hits I'm getting at 5 are just not that satisfying but turning it up results in the dry hits. I have yet to try the cotton yarn provided, but will try that tonight when I get home. Should I start out with one 'thread' of the yarn and work up from there? Or start out with more threads? I don't plan on doing any rebuilding of the heads other than changing out the flavor wicks. Rebuilding just isn't for me. I have a Spheroid for my MicroStick just gathering dust because I'm not really into the whole rebuilding thing. (the MicroStick is also gathering dust, but that's a whole other topic).

 

[willowize]

My partner and I are experiencing something new. We have been using our new Sabots with 3ohm ARO heads in our BBs for about 5 days. We both vape MM Maha Ras. This eliquid is very clear and light red in color. After 2 days in the tank the Maha Ras is very, very dark. This never happened with slotted cartos or the Billet Bridge. The flavor is great and vapor is awesome. I just can't understand why the eliquid is getting so dark.
Any ideas?

I'm gonna guess and say it's because your juice is getting more oxygen and maybe more juice to the coil. My brother and I, using same setup tend to have juice color differences. His gets darker than mine but he chain vapes and I do not. It could be that more juice is getting to the coil and caramelizing faster thus turning juice darker. This is all just a guess on my part. ?What is your AFC set at?

I could use a hand fine-tuning my Sabot. At the moment I am using stock 3.0 ARO heads. I have done nothing at all to the head except screw it into the Sabot. I am currently using a 50/50 blend and alternating between two different flavors in two different tanks. The problem I am having is dry, almost burned (burnt?) hits at anything over 5 on the BB dial. Using a 3.0 carto, I am able to crank it up to 5.25 and sometimes 5.5 without any dry hits. With the ARO head in the Sabot, the hits I'm getting at 5 are just not that satisfying but turning it up results in the dry hits. I have yet to try the cotton yarn provided, but will try that tonight when I get home. Should I start out with one 'thread' of the yarn and work up from there? Or start out with more threads? I don't plan on doing any rebuilding of the heads other than changing out the flavor wicks. Rebuilding just isn't for me. I have a Spheroid for my MicroStick just gathering dust because I'm not really into the whole rebuilding thing. (the MicroStick is also gathering dust, but that's a whole other topic).

I'd definitely try the cotton yarn. Just another guess on my part but since you are getting dry hits then use only one strand yarn for your flavor wick. ?What is your AFC set at?

 

[BlueSnake]

I could use a hand fine-tuning my Sabot. At the moment I am using stock 3.0 ARO heads. I have done nothing at all to the head except screw it into the Sabot. I am currently using a 50/50 blend and alternating between two different flavors in two different tanks. The problem I am having is dry, almost burned (burnt?) hits at anything over 5 on the BB dial. Using a 3.0 carto, I am able to crank it up to 5.25 and sometimes 5.5 without any dry hits. With the ARO head in the Sabot, the hits I'm getting at 5 are just not that satisfying but turning it up results in the dry hits. I have yet to try the cotton yarn provided, but will try that tonight when I get home. Should I start out with one 'thread' of the yarn and work up from there? Or start out with more threads? I don't plan on doing any rebuilding of the heads other than changing out the flavor wicks. Rebuilding just isn't for me. I have a Spheroid for my MicroStick just gathering dust because I'm not really into the whole rebuilding thing. (the MicroStick is also gathering dust, but that's a whole other topic).

Have you tried closing off the airflow a little? Tighter airflow will draw more juice into the wick. I run 50/50 and I can't run the airflow wide open.

 

[ThreeDJ16]

I could use a hand fine-tuning my Sabot. At the moment I am using stock 3.0 ARO heads. I have done nothing at all to the head except screw it into the Sabot. I am currently using a 50/50 blend and alternating between two different flavors in two different tanks. The problem I am having is dry, almost burned (burnt?) hits at anything over 5 on the BB dial. Using a 3.0 carto, I am able to crank it up to 5.25 and sometimes 5.5 without any dry hits. With the ARO head in the Sabot, the hits I'm getting at 5 are just not that satisfying but turning it up results in the dry hits. I have yet to try the cotton yarn provided, but will try that tonight when I get home. Should I start out with one 'thread' of the yarn and work up from there? Or start out with more threads? I don't plan on doing any rebuilding of the heads other than changing out the flavor wicks. Rebuilding just isn't for me. I have a Spheroid for my MicroStick just gathering dust because I'm not really into the whole rebuilding thing. (the MicroStick is also gathering dust, but that's a whole other topic).

One other trick I have good luck with for dry hits is to tape over the ball fill. While it might still seal well enough not to leak out juice, it could be pulling in air and messing with the tank vacuum. Just about all RBA type device are very funny about tank pressure where cartos are not. I went ahead and applied a small strip of electrical tape over the fill ball on all of my tanks and have no issues with any of the juices now. So I was able to get a straight factory ARO head working properly with no yarn addition and most of my juices are 50/50 or higher. But going with the yarn will certainly be a benefit to flavor and should also wick better too. Just so more options for you to try.

D'oh...haha. And what Bluesnake and Willowize stated. That is one of the main reasons we added the AFC since that directly affects juice drawn into the coil. Thanks for the memory jolt. Need more of that now days.

 

[skotsour]

Thanks, y'all. I'll give these tips a try. Just to get it straight in my head: the AFC closer to the body of the BB (or 'down) is closing off the airflow, correct?

 

[ThreeDJ16]

Thanks, y'all. I'll give these tips a try. Just to get it straight in my head: the AFC closer to the body of the BB (or 'down) is closing off the airflow, correct?

Yup! But please do not close it so far as to come in contact with the BB brass contact. The tolerance is so tight, no need to risk getting a short. Probably half way or less is all you need.

 

[Katdarling]

Sabot Day in Kali Land. KD reporting in.


Ok, J, you will be pleased. I have been using only the stock Aro coil head (2.4Ω)... the same one used on the Traveling DDD Brothers Sabot Tour. It was working fine. Great? Nope, but fine. Since today was designated as experimentation day, my first adventure was to remove the somewhat charred silica flavor wicks. Kind of fugly, those little guys. I managed to shear off 2 strands of the creamy yarn and carefully placed them above the coil. Reinsert in Sabot. Trim edges, oh wait..... before inserting, I remembered to drop some vliquid onto the yarn! (YEAH me!)

So far so good! I then inserted the Sabot into the tank and hmmm.... something's wrong. It's not fitting properly with the upside down push, right side up push. Ok kiddies, know what I did?

Yep, you have to screw on that little base thingie. Duh.

I opened the airflow control about a turn, to tighten the draw. This is counterintuitive, correct? Closing it to the tightest position increases the airflow and vice versa? And more air = less vliquid to the wick and vice versa?

I finally got it set up and filled my tank to about 1/3. Gawd knows I don't want to be yelled at for having a too full tank while experimenting! And yes, Big D, I promise to fillerup once I'm sure the coil and I are friends.

It works!!!!! And it works well! Just the change in the flavor wicks has improved a tired old coil. I'm impressed.

 

[HwyApostle]

Just got home a few hours ago. Found a nice package in my vape mail drawer. ;-)


Sent from the open road using Tapatalk.

 

[calidreaming]

My partner and I are experiencing something new. We have been using our new Sabots with 3ohm ARO heads in our BBs for about 5 days. We both vape MM Maha Ras. This eliquid is very clear and light red in color. After 2 days in the tank the Maha Ras is very, very dark. This never happened with slotted cartos or the Billet Bridge. The flavor is great and vapor is awesome. I just can't understand why the eliquid is getting so dark.
Any ideas?

From my experience with RBA, it's burnt juice flowing back from the coil to the tank. I can correct for this in my RBA builds, but then it decreases juice flow to the wicks. It wasn't worth reducing juice flow for me so I don't bother with fixing the burnt juice back flow.

What I have being doing is just vaping and refilling the tank until I'm almost ready for a wick change then I'll vape the tank as dry as possible and dumping what juice is left and start again.

It's being awhile since I used slotted cartos in the BB, but I do recall the juice in the tank getting darker too.

 

[Katdarling]

I have used the same vliquid (NLV GOLD - I know. What a shock.) in my B Box with cartos (slots), the B Bridge, and the Sabot. I've not noticed any color change at all. Hmmmm....

 

[Bamrz]

I haven't noticed any color change in the juice I use in my BB, but have with other tanks. It seems the larger the tank, the more of a color change it will get.

 

[willowize]

I have used the same vliquid (NLV GOLD - I know. What a shock.) in my B Box with cartos (slots), the B Bridge, and the Sabot. I've not noticed any color change at all. Hmmmm....

Ditto!! and add that I've used all the other NLV flavors and no color change. Only thing that ever changes color is the wick inside the coil and the flavor wick closet to the coil. I change the wick after each tank and sometimes I can just rinse the wick and reuse again.

 

[Katdarling]

Ditto!! and add that I've used all the other NLV flavors and no color change.

Welp, I did get some good intel on this (from a very reliable source)...

"I use them in everything and I notice a slight darkness eventually (mostly over extended time) because of the heat created inside the tanks from constantly vaping and heating the tank. Tanks elements, which make heat, even if it's a little each time - it is still heat, will darken any liquid, and more so over an extended time."

This still doesn't answer why it's happening with the Maharishi liquid so quickly....

 

[calidreaming]

A quick update after using the Sabot for a few days. First off, I would like to thank Drunk_J for suggesting a 3 ohm coil build. I've being using pre-built NR-R-NR wires at 2.4 ohm exclusively for the BB. My current setup is:

3.1 ohm coil
32 gauge Kanthal
11 wraps
14 gauge needle

SnC cotton yarn
4 stands thru the coil
4 stands for the flavor wick, I've tried from 2 to 4 stands and 4 is working for me.

Vaping at 5.25V to 5.5V

Adjusting the air control wheel does make a marked difference in the juice flow and for me helped with the initial gurgling.

Flavor and vaper production at 5V and higher is much improved over the 2.4 ohm coils that I was building.

The second tank that I vaped, leaked at just below the half tank mark. I've made some changes and see if that will cure the leak.

Again, great product and a BIG thank you to Drunk_J for helping me with a minor issue. Great guy to work with.

 

[Katdarling]

A quick update after using the Sabot for a few days. First off, I would like to thank Drunk_J for suggesting a 3 ohm coil build. I've being using pre-built NR-R-NR wires at 2.4 ohm exclusively for the BB. My current setup is:

3.1 ohm coil
32 gauge Kanthal
11 wraps
14 gauge needle

SnC cotton yarn
4 stands thru the coil
4 stands for the flavor wick, I've tried from 2 to 4 stands and 4 is working for me.

Vaping at 5.25V to 5.5V

Adjusting the air control wheel does make a marked difference in the juice flow and for me helped with the initial gurgling.

Flavor and vaper production at 5V and higher is much improved over the 2.4 ohm coils that I was building.

The second tank that I vaped, leaked at just below the half tank mark. I've made some changes and see if that will cure the leak.

Again, great product and a BIG thank you to Drunk_J for helping me with a minor issue. Great guy to work with.

One cannot say that enuf times! ya J.

 

[willowize]

Kat DARLING......calling Kat......you there?

 

[Katdarling]

No, may I take a message for her?

 

[willowize]

Hehe I need to ask you a question. Going to pm