I'm sorry if this has been covered already, but information seems a little tough to find on this subject. I'm just wondering if rdas are safe to use on my MVP. I don't plan on doing any sub-ohm coils or anything like that, I just want something to tinker with and plan on shooting for coils in the 2+ ohm range. I assume this shouldn't be any less safe than the tanks I am using right now, but I would really like some input from some more experienced users. Thanks.
Safe to use rda on MVP 2.0?
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I use both RDAs and RBAs on my MVP. It's safe..don't worry and if you build a coil below 1.2 it will not fire...i think its 1.2 but not sure..i haven't gone that low..
I'm using an Igo-L on my SVD @ 12.5 watts with a 1.4 ohm micro coil. No issues at all and it works great. I believe its ok as long as you dont get under the minimum ohm rating the device will fire at. My SVD will not fire one under 1.2 ohm.
Yup works fine, infact I use my MVP2 to build most of my coils on and check ohms.
I will say this though, if your building for use on the MVP2, try to stay within like 1.6 - 2.5 ohm's.
I had an almost 3 ohm coil I wrapped and the MVP struggled to really get it cooking, where the same coil, on a DNA 20 mod, hitting it with the same reported output voltage, was obviously hitting harder then the MVP was, even though they were both reporting the same output volts.
As long as your inside of like 1.6 to 2.3 ohms or so, the MVP seems to be pretty accurate IMHO.
I will say this though, if your building for use on the MVP2, try to stay within like 1.6 - 2.5 ohm's.
I had an almost 3 ohm coil I wrapped and the MVP struggled to really get it cooking, where the same coil, on a DNA 20 mod, hitting it with the same reported output voltage, was obviously hitting harder then the MVP was, even though they were both reporting the same output volts.
As long as your inside of like 1.6 to 2.3 ohms or so, the MVP seems to be pretty accurate IMHO.
By the way, the MVP will check ohms going super low, but will not fire them.
I have built and measured accurately a 0.6 ohm coil on the MVP2, but it won't fire it.
I have built and measured accurately a 0.6 ohm coil on the MVP2, but it won't fire it.
Thanks guys! BTW if anyone knows of a good beginners guide to rebuilding, I would be really interested in taking a look. I haven't found anything yet, but I am watching all the videos I can find on Youtube.
For anyone contemplating winding coils below the MVPs suggested 1.3Ω limit... Innokin APVs have, at most, a 3 amp limiter. If you do the ohms law calculation (1.2Ω @ maximum wattage pulls 3.0 amps) the amperage is simply not available. If anything, attempts to continually push that value may be placing undue stress on the PCBs limiter circuit.
Go to Forum: Rebuildable Atomizer Systems and spend a few days... the only way to really learn is to first, have at least an awareness of ohms law, then start building coils and discovering the results. Here are several links that may help you on your journey.
I run my RSST at 1.2 ohms at 10 watts and my IGO L at 1.4 ohms at 9 watts with no problems and a good flavor and vape.
The best way to learn to rebuild is to do it, honestly. I don't check my resistances anymore, because I know that X number of wraps with 28 or 32 ga. Kanthal will give me the resistance I am looking for, but that comes with practice, and should never be employed with mechanical mods (no limitation of current!).
Check Riptrippers vids for a good cross-section on rebuilding coils. One of the best things to do is have some 28ga Kanthal on hand and learn to make a decent microcoil. They provide a lot of flavor and vapor without dipping to low in the ohms department. Actually, the point of them is to provide a sub-ohm like experience without being sub-ohm. The whole principal is to have more surface area heating the juice, and it works quite nicely.
I would shy away from nanocoils until you are more advanced. Simply put, the small area inside of a nanocoil can quickly scorch a cotton wick if everything is not perfect. Once you are good at micro coils, you might try out one of Rip's Tricrocoils, they aren't too hard and give excellent results.
There is also nothing wrong with just wrapping up a standard coils around some cotton, but I personally (so take it with a grain of salt) think that using a vanilla coil both defeats the purpose of the customizability of an RBA and limits your ability to attain better flavor. I'd be happy to give any assistance you might need, possibly even working something out to make you a few coils to try; I have 100 feet of 28ga kanthal in the mail to me as we speak.
Check Riptrippers vids for a good cross-section on rebuilding coils. One of the best things to do is have some 28ga Kanthal on hand and learn to make a decent microcoil. They provide a lot of flavor and vapor without dipping to low in the ohms department. Actually, the point of them is to provide a sub-ohm like experience without being sub-ohm. The whole principal is to have more surface area heating the juice, and it works quite nicely.
I would shy away from nanocoils until you are more advanced. Simply put, the small area inside of a nanocoil can quickly scorch a cotton wick if everything is not perfect. Once you are good at micro coils, you might try out one of Rip's Tricrocoils, they aren't too hard and give excellent results.
There is also nothing wrong with just wrapping up a standard coils around some cotton, but I personally (so take it with a grain of salt) think that using a vanilla coil both defeats the purpose of the customizability of an RBA and limits your ability to attain better flavor. I'd be happy to give any assistance you might need, possibly even working something out to make you a few coils to try; I have 100 feet of 28ga kanthal in the mail to me as we speak.
Whereas you do not need to be an electrician to do rebuilding, you do have to know a few things. Voltage divided by resistance of the coil will give you the current in amps that firing the device will pull. This number needs to be below the current limitation of your device. On a regulated device, the voltage will be limited down to the point that the current limit is not exceeded (in theory anyways, safeties like this can always fail). On a mechanical mod, the battery just dumps out as much current as the coil demands, and that can be bad news if you severely overcurrent a battery cell.
Running a dual coil setup causes the resistances to add in inverse, meaning that instead of taking resistance 1 and adding it to resistance 2, you are taking 1/resistance 1 + 1/resistance 2, then dividing 1 by the answer to get the resistance. so two 1 ohm coils will equal out to a 0.5 ohm coil. This seems a little complex, but it's really simple.
Understanding power is similarly easy. Divide volts by ohms, and then take the answer time the volts. This will give you power in watts. Essentially, power is the truest measure of how a coil vapes, as watts are a measurement of the amount of work being done. In this case, it will be a measure of the heat production within the RDA chamber, and heat times wicking rate equals vapor production. Tracking your builds in both ohms and watts will allow you to fine-tune your rebuilding to get exactly the kind of vape you are looking for. Biggest bit of advice I can give is to learn about batteries and what is considered safe and unsafe, and what happens when you push one too far.
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