What kind of vapor are you guys getting from these, I dont seem to get a really thick white vapor like I do from other mods, is it supposed to be like this or does my wick have to break in more ?
Scubagen Mods
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maybe this time it will be seen.... 
I know I have said this once before....but those of you that are having the harsh TH and no flavor/vapor......CHECK YOUR AIRFLOW!
If the wick is right, the coil is right....and you are at your wits end....I assure you there is something wrong with the airflow. If need be..drill two very small holes (I use the smallest drill bit in the dremel set...1/32 or .08mm) in the top cap tube directly at the coil and 180 degrees across from each other.
I am starting to think that during the soldering process of the wire, that the tube is being clogged enough to restrict airflow enough to affect the vapor production. Anyone having this issue, take my advice and give it a try....I'm almost positive you will get better results.
I've rebuilt my post twice now on BOTH of my units, I find it is best to kick them each in opposite directions of say the Bridge. If you kick or tilt one to the left and one to the right they end up being a bit further away from the bridge and this way the Bridge has a bit more clearance of both of your post and wrapping your wire post is also easier since the post arent in the way of the Bridge as much.
I'm not happy with the vapor production though, I did this before with wrapping a piece of the XC-116 wick on top of the mesh just a small piece over the center of the Bridge wrapping your wire around both the wick and the mesh, but it was when I was having issues, gonna have to try this again and see how it is, this XC-116 Wick material is some really nice stuff, if ya have it make sure you pre-burn it before installing it, you can use your torch or over the range, burn it until it is all white it doesn't burn and takes heat up to 1800F
I'm not happy with the vapor production though, I did this before with wrapping a piece of the XC-116 wick on top of the mesh just a small piece over the center of the Bridge wrapping your wire around both the wick and the mesh, but it was when I was having issues, gonna have to try this again and see how it is, this XC-116 Wick material is some really nice stuff, if ya have it make sure you pre-burn it before installing it, you can use your torch or over the range, burn it until it is all white it doesn't burn and takes heat up to 1800F
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so is there something beside the ceramic tube that can be use as an insulator? i thought i read somewhere there was a piece inside a carto (carto sock or something) so i gutted some dual coils. they have the batting and some paper and a piece looks just like the ceramic tube stuff. but as i recently discovered that material aint what it appears and when you torch it it burns right up. no good. i dont have a problem torching the wick and doing without it but i wanted to try... thanks for any and all advise lol
There really isn't any need to use ceramic wick tube or other insulating materials between the coil and the wick if you get the coils working properly. Once I had my issue with the shorted mesh worked out and I properly oxidized the mesh where the arch is, it came to life and worked perfectly.
Here's my observation at this point:
There are a few things that are needed to get this thing working right:
1: following the instructions and build it basically the way Dan described it, except for the negative post, which needs improvement. Other than that, there's no need to reinvent the thing.
2: look out for shorts and air flow problems. If the wick touches the body in any way at all, you will never get it working correctly, and that includes the negative post touching the wick.
3: the most important item, and its not included in this or any other coop, nor can it be purchased at any store, is patience! It may take some poking with a toothpick and tweaking initially. Once you have mastered the coil setup you will be able to repeat it quite easily! Patience in most cases is a virtue... To build this atty, it's a requirement.
4: a word about the mesh... Use it and don't bail out and substitute a more familiar material because substituting other stuff means you're building a giant CE2... Not a genesis!
The end result for those that have one that's working is a great atty that seems at first glance to be much better than anything else available at any price... It's worth the effort in my opinion, and I thank dan for getting this ball rolling!
Here's my observation at this point:
There are a few things that are needed to get this thing working right:
1: following the instructions and build it basically the way Dan described it, except for the negative post, which needs improvement. Other than that, there's no need to reinvent the thing.
2: look out for shorts and air flow problems. If the wick touches the body in any way at all, you will never get it working correctly, and that includes the negative post touching the wick.
3: the most important item, and its not included in this or any other coop, nor can it be purchased at any store, is patience! It may take some poking with a toothpick and tweaking initially. Once you have mastered the coil setup you will be able to repeat it quite easily! Patience in most cases is a virtue... To build this atty, it's a requirement.
4: a word about the mesh... Use it and don't bail out and substitute a more familiar material because substituting other stuff means you're building a giant CE2... Not a genesis!
The end result for those that have one that's working is a great atty that seems at first glance to be much better than anything else available at any price... It's worth the effort in my opinion, and I thank dan for getting this ball rolling!
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I can't wait till I get my mesh...I test drove my scuba by dripping, and it was pretty awesome...
wow, I'm not used to being frustrated by something, especially after I read the instructions. I've rebuilt this thing 4 times now, I've got the coil firing the right way, and I'm still getting a burnt taste, the last time I re-did it, I get a taste similar to the taste of burnt steel. (like from a grill.) blah.
I'll just try some more tomorrow.
I'll just try some more tomorrow.
I think most people will get this taste too, i did when i first tried ss mesh. I think boiling the mesh after quenching it helps a bit but i bit the bullet and wrapped the stainless mesh wicks without quenching in a ceramic type mesh as described by dan. The taste will go after a while maybe a ml or two.
+1
Very good observations Zen. I have been using Genisis for a long time now and it is by far the best tasting atomizer available at any price.
That said, it is not nearly as simp,e as it may seem on the surface. There are a bunch of things that you have to learn to get a feel for. The learning curve can be steep for some, but the benefits are very well worth it. Those of you having trouble, there is a lot of info and many tutorials both pictorial and video. Read, watch and learn as much as you can after a while, the eureka moment will happen and you will be able to re-do your Genisis in a handful of minutes. Some of us make it look real yeast, but we all went through the same difficulties that some of you are having with the build.
Keep at it, it won't be long before you're all pros at rolling SS mesh wicks and winding coils that have no shorts. Believe me, the vaping experience will be worth all the frustration.
Happy modding guys, welcome to the Genisis club
ok i have a wick and coil installed and got the coil glowing so no shorts. put some juice in the tank but i think its not wicking because unless i drip some juice on the coil it just starts glowing after like a sec and tastes bad if i get a whiff of it... i don't really have any kinks. i used 3/4" x 4 and rolled it around a wire like dans vid. pulled out the wire and it seemed perfect. there is a tiny curve in the wick though because i thought the coil could not have any 'legs' going to the posts so it kinda twists the wick relative to the guide holes. i am going to redo it and leave the little ends on the coil so the wick stays straight and see what that does or perhaps i need to make another wick idk....
On bottom fed genisis attys....the initial wicking occasionally needs to be helped by turning it upside down while intermittently pressing the button. When then coils stops glowing, the wick is completely saturated. Tight rolls tend to wick slower than loose ones...from what I have experienced.
Well. Finished my first build last night. I have a few problems that I can solve with a regroup, a few new parts, and a break. However, I did experience a few puffs of the sweet genisis vape before my positive post shorted.
My advice to those of you who have built it 'exactly right' and are getting harsh hits is to drip juice on the coil and take a toot. If you get a couple of good hits with good flavor then, your problem is probably mostly wicking.
I'm going to think about a few things to try when I rebuild to improve wicking. I cannot roll that wick anywhere near as well as Dan does and I want to look at the 'pen' tube insulation to see if I can find something with a larger ID that will still fit in the wick holes.
My advice to those of you who have built it 'exactly right' and are getting harsh hits is to drip juice on the coil and take a toot. If you get a couple of good hits with good flavor then, your problem is probably mostly wicking.
I'm going to think about a few things to try when I rebuild to improve wicking. I cannot roll that wick anywhere near as well as Dan does and I want to look at the 'pen' tube insulation to see if I can find something with a larger ID that will still fit in the wick holes.
I'm having a bit of trouble with my construction. I've taken the center post from a ce2 clearomizer and soldered the wire to it. When I feed the wire through the center tube the connector slides right in with no hammering needed. It's all the way in, but I can pull it right out with my fingers, so it's obviously not a tight fit. Anyone know what's going on there? I might just seal it with silicone, but I'm not sure if that will be sturdy enough.
Are you talking about the 510 connector? If so, 'pk' came up w/ a great solution for this here. Many of us had the same issue.
I noticed that certain regular 510 atomizers have a nice tight fit. I used a Joye 510 atomizer from Vapor King. After removing the steel tube the connector fits perfectly.
Yes, worth trying other connectors but I didn't have any, just CE2's.
Yeah, I mean the 510 connector. Last part of step two in the manual. I'm using a connector from a ce2, with the long center post. I tried the link you gave, but it just brought me back to this page. If the method is described in a post in this thread, can you reference the post number?
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