Scubagen Mods
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Ahh, ok, works here. It's post #781 in normal view mode. He repeats it again a couple times throughout for people to see as well.
Woohooo! Found two more cartos stuck in a box on my closet shelf.....soooooo
LETS GET READY TO SCUBAAAAAAAAAAAAA!
Heading down to my basement workshop....not comin out til I'm done!
LETS GET READY TO SCUBAAAAAAAAAAAAA!
Heading down to my basement workshop....not comin out til I'm done!
Woohooo! Found two more cartos stuck in a box on my closet shelf.....soooooo
LETS GET READY TO SCUBAAAAAAAAAAAAA!
Heading down to my basement workshop....not comin out til I'm done!
We'll have BR send you some cheese puffs
Right. Matching size drill bit to that hole could make short work of that though.
I never thought that one day I would use one of my smallest drill bits to drill out the end of a bic pen to make the inside diameter larger.
It works, however you need to go slow, as not to melt the plastic. I drilled them out while holding the pen in my hand, not while inserted in the hole of the sgv3 body.
I never used the drilled out pen tube...
I ordered some Nylon Sleeve Flange Bushings from Mc-Master-Carr part # 91145A110.
I use four of them, two in the top and two in the bottom.
I had to trim the shoulder on one side for the two I used on the bottom to get them insterted.
Here is the specs on the part. the inside dia ia 0.090"
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I never thought, I would one day use one of my smaller drills to drill out the end of a bic pen to make it bigger.
It works, however you need to go slow,as not to melt the plastic. I drilled them out while holding the pen in my hand, not while inserted in the hole of the sgv3 body. I never used the drilled out pen tube, however it should work.
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I ordered some Nylon Sleeve Flange Bushings from Mc-Master-Carr part # 91145A110.
I use four of them, two in the top and two in the bottom.
I had to trim the shoulder on one side for the two I used on the bottom to get them insterted.
Here is the specs on the part. the inside dia ia 0.090"
You absolutely scare me, but in a good way! I already had a cart going, just added that in. Thank you for sharing!!!
If you are using the Nylon Sleeve Flange Bushings...
I used a piece of SS Mesh that is 4" x 1-3/8", rolling the wick over the wire like Dan shows.
A 3/4" wide piece would be too small.
My next roll I may go down to a 1-1/4".
YMMV
I used a piece of SS Mesh that is 4" x 1-3/8", rolling the wick over the wire like Dan shows.
A 3/4" wide piece would be too small.
My next roll I may go down to a 1-1/4".
YMMV
Thank you Teach!
Also...
If you notice in the picture I'm using one m1.6 nut and two m1.6 washers, it catches the Kanthal wire better than just using two unbeveled m1.6 nuts.
I never beveled the two m1.6 nuts, so maybe I'll try that next to compare.
Edit to add;
I also used an additional washer on the negative post between the sping and the roll pin.
Also...
If you notice in the picture I'm using one m1.6 nut and two m1.6 washers, it catches the Kanthal wire better than just using two unbeveled m1.6 nuts.
I never beveled the two m1.6 nuts, so maybe I'll try that next to compare.
Edit to add;
I also used an additional washer on the negative post between the sping and the roll pin.
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If you are using the Nylon Sleeve Flange Bushings...
I used a piece of SS Mesh that is 4" x 1-3/8", rolling the wick over the wire like Dan shows.
A 3/4" wide piece would be too small.
My next roll I may go down to a 1-1/4".
YMMV
Since we are talking about the wick size I think I am going to go LONGER than 4" next time. I see way more clearance than is needed to avoid touching the bottom with the 4" and I want to get as much wick area in the juice as possible. I'm thinking 4 3/4" next time.
Thanks for mentioning the nut arrangement.... I missed it completely. On the one I turned in June I lenthened the spring and got the compression set so the spring held the wire - it was handy having it mounted on the pan heads.
This is the same thing that happend to me, so you scared me first.
Everytime I get a coil to glow and not short, the wick stops wicking. However I will try priming the wick and turning it upside down to try and get it to wick again.
Twice I have made a coil that would not short and glow. However, I did notice that the coils were not touching up against the wick. Can this be the reason that it stops wicking?
Should the coil be up against the wick touching it and still not short out? My answer is yes.
Also, it seems like when I pulse and/or hold the button down during a dry burn I can get the coil to glow. It expands enough to get it to not short. However, I'm finding that when coil cools down and contracts, it shorts out up against the wick again.
I'm going to go wrap a perfect coil now...
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If the wick is properly oxidized, it shouldn't short out when the coil contacts it... Or am I just reading this wrong?
This is the same thing that happend to me, so you scared me first.
Everytime I get a coil to glow and not short, the wick stops wicking. However I will try priming the wick and turning it upside down to try and get it to wick again.
Twice I have made a coil that would not short and glow. However, I did notice that the coils were not touching up against the wick. Can this be the reason that it stops wicking?
Should the coil be up against the wick touching it and still not short out? My answer is yes.
Also, it seems like when I pulse and/or hold the button down during a dry burn I can get the coil to glow. It expands enough to get it to not short. However, I'm finding that when coil cools down and contracts, it shorts out up against the wick again.
I'm going to go wrap a perfect coil now...
Back to waiting....first build attempt is a bust due to the o-rings. I'm going to assume maybe it's a tolerance issue in the groove. Now I have to find a thinner o-ring........grrrrr.....which means now I have to wait until next weekend!!
No, you are correct. Burning the mesh is done to eliminate the coil shorting out.
Hi UA, use a smaller O Ring and stretch it on, if you use the right size one to stretch it will do short term as a replacement, when you stretch the O ring the dia of the O Ring body gets smaller, hope this helps
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Yes, it is a tolerance issue.
I switched to a #15 o-ring in lieu of the #16 o-ring for the main body.
It works great, I have no leaks and if fits nicely.
In general I don't think we are 'oxidizing' the SS wick. I think we are putting deposits and liquid on it that are increasing its resistance. The goal is to eliminate conductivity. I have been looking at a process called 'passivation' which will actually do that however it involves some caustic chemicals. I may try it, but frankly I've never been sold on this SS wick and I'm not married to it. I don't care if it's not a genisis, I want a solid rebuildable tank\atomizer. If I get a solid build and can't get this SS wick to perform as I like after a few more changes I'm going to take another route on wick.
I think Dan's next video showing how to connect the coil and eliminate the coil from shorting on the wick holds the key to finishing this. Hint! Hint! 
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