Scubagen Mods

[mj64]

This is the same thing that happend to me, so you scared me first.

Everytime I get a coil to glow and not short, the wick stops wicking. However I will try priming the wick and turning it upside down to try and get it to wick again.

Twice I have made a coil that would not short and glow. However, I did notice that the coils were not touching up against the wick. Can this be the reason that it stops wicking?

Should the coil be up against the wick touching it and still not short out? My answer is yes.

Also, it seems like when I pulse and/or hold the button down during a dry burn I can get the coil to glow. It expands enough to get it to not short. However, I'm finding that when coil cools down and contracts, it shorts out up against the wick again.

I'm going to go wrap a perfect coil now...

It is interesting how we have ended up in similar spots at different times. To me its like you read my mind, ordered parts, fixed it, and posted the results all in 15 minutes of me finding the problem. Makes me want to borrow your time machine!

In general I just think that a wet wick has awfully high resistance and the coil has very low resistance, and the burning procedure just tosses a little crust on to bootstrap that.

 

[PKZap27]

For my second build I couldn't get a tight fit using a tube from a pen in the body of the sgv3 for the positive post, or a tight fit on the inside of the pen tube for the CE2 post.

I had some of this nylon tubing and used it for the positive post, (SK8201-1/8) it works great and provides a tight fit in the main body and a tight fit for the CE2 post. YMMV.

I googled the printing on the tubing "SK-8201" and found the above link.

I would not use this tubing for the wick holes as it would be too tight.

The bic pen does work for the positive post, as I have done it this way.

However, I felt more comfortable using this tighter fitting nylon tubing.

 

[mwa102464]

Dam guy's I'm just not getting these, I have rebuilt both of my tanks 3 times now, have made numerous coils & Wicks. Everything is working like it is supposed to, the whole coils is glowing when pulsing it, the wicks getting plenty of juice but my vape and taste is horrible. also when I pull my juice back out of the tanks it has a really bad taste almost like it has been electrically zapped and the juice is no longer any good. Almost like something is shorting out but yet I cant see how this could possibly be happening when my coil is glowing nicely ? what gives here with this man I just cant get the vape that people are saying there getting ?

 

[Zen~]

Dam guy's I'm just not getting these, I have rebuilt both of my tanks 3 times now, have made numerous coils & Wicks. Everything is working like it is supposed to, the whole coils is glowing when pulsing it, the wicks getting plenty of juice but my vape and taste is horrible. also when I pull my juice back out of the tanks it has a really bad taste almost like it has been electrically zapped and the juice is no longer any good. Almost like something is shorting out but yet I cant see how this could possibly be happening when my coil is glowing nicely ? what gives here with this man I just cant get the vape that people are saying there getting ?

Put a meter between your mesh and the body... It should read zero ohms... I'm betting it does not.

 

[mj64]

Dam guy's I'm just not getting these, I have rebuilt both of my tanks 3 times now, have made numerous coils & Wicks. Everything is working like it is supposed to, the whole coils is glowing when pulsing it, the wicks getting plenty of juice but my vape and taste is horrible. also when I pull my juice back out of the tanks it has a really bad taste almost like it has been electrically zapped and the juice is no longer any good. Almost like something is shorting out but yet I cant see how this could possibly be happening when my coil is glowing nicely ? what gives here with this man I just cant get the vape that people are saying there getting ?

Just to be 100% clear, and not just for you but I haven't seen this said straight out...

Your coil SHOULD glow when you are testing it and there is not any juice in the tank, i.e. you are testing it.

It SHOULD NOT glow under normal operation when there is juice in the tank and you are vaping.....

 

[PKZap27]

Put a meter between your mesh and the body... It should read zero ohms... I'm betting it does not.

Wouldn't a reading of zero ohms mean that the mesh is making contact with the body?

When I touch my meter leads together I get zero Ohms.

 

[lorderos33]

Just to be 100% clear, and not just for you but I haven't seen this said straight out...

Your coil SHOULD glow when you are testing it and there is not any juice in the tank, i.e. you are testing it.

It SHOULD NOT glow under normal operation when there is juice in the tank and you are vaping.....

+1

Think of it like this....

When you're vaping a regular carto or atty, does the coil glow red. Of course the answer is no, it's common sense among this crowd, right? Genisis is an advanced atomizer, but at the end of the day it's an atomizer. If your coil glows red right away and the tank is full then there are a few things to check.

1. Is a part of the mesk wick touching anything conductive other than the coil. If yes, correct it and try again. The mesh should only touch the coil.

2. Are you getting enough juice? Check it by putting a drop or 2 of juice right on the coil and vape it. It should taste great. If it works till it burns of the drop then gets red right away, you are not getting enough juice to the heater. Fix or replace the mesh and try again.

3. Is there a short in the mod somewhere else. Check the battery connection and solder points for shorts. Fix if there are any and try it again.

4. Check to be sure you battery is good and that there are no shorts between it and the mod body. This usually causes other issues, but I have seen it cause a surge in current to the coil and run too hot.

Good luck and happy vaping. You'll all get there soon, don't give up now

 

[mj64]

I think we need to try to remember that we have a **VARIED** type of crowd here, which is why I stated the 'obvious' about the coil. Yes, there are lots of modders of different experience levels, but we also have others here, the genesis type and Dan's following in DIY liquids drew in a few others. Some of the modders that mostly work on the batt or circuit side may not think a lot about the atty or cartomizer side. I mostly play with cartomizers, atties, and tanks so the liquid\heat\air balance at the coil is pretty straightforward to me, but if you spend most of your time working on circuits it may not be something you think about a lot.

 

[Zen~]

Wouldn't a reading of zero ohms mean that the mesh is making contact with the body?

When I touch my meter leads together I get zero Ohms.

Oh yeah, my bad... It should read infinite ohms... Wide open... You should read nothing!

I knew what I meant! I said the opposite.

 

[PKZap27]

Just to be 100% clear, and not just for you but I haven't seen this said straight out...

Your coil SHOULD glow when you are testing it and there is not any juice in the tank, i.e. you are testing it.

It SHOULD NOT glow under normal operation when there is juice in the tank and you are vaping.....

I thought so too.

However, since I ended up having the coil glow after filling, I went ahead and put faith in my oxidzing and adjusted the coil so it is up against the wick...

The coil is not glowing between the wick and post...

I believe I do not have any shorts.

I went with 3 wraps of Kanthal 32, which came out to about 1.7 Ohms.

I'll keep vaping with it to see if it gets any better.

wish me luck.

 

[eyebrook]

On my multimeter , when the circuit is open it shows a flashing 1 or I to say there is no circuit, so no short, hope that makes sense

 

[PKZap27]

Oh yeah, my bad... It should read infinite ohms... Wide open... You should read nothing!

I knew what I meant! I said the opposite.

I knew what you meant, just wanted to get it clarified...

I can set my meter to beep when I have continuity.

I'm shooting for no beep between the mesh and body, then I will check for infinite ohms.

 

[lorderos33]

I think we need to try to remember that we have a **VARIED** type of crowd here, which is why I stated the 'obvious' about the coil. Yes, there are lots of modders of different experience levels, but we also have others here, the genesis type and Dan's following in DIY liquids drew in a few others. Some of the modders that mostly work on the batt or circuit side may not think a lot about the atty or cartomizer side. I mostly play with cartomizers, atties, and tanks so the liquid\heat\air balance at the coil is pretty straightforward to me, but if you spend most of your time working on circuits it may not be something you think about a lot.

True that mj.

I hope that did not come across as me being cross or anything like that. I was just trying to lay it out so everyone can get their scubagen up and running as nicely as some of us know it can. I know the learning curve can be very steep so i was also trying to encourage those having a harder time of it because Genisis does become almost second nature after you play with it a while. It takes a some time and tinkering on your first one to get the techniques down but it's soo worth it once you get there.

Scubagen is a great learner too because it's all stainless and therefore as near bulletproof as it gets

 

[mj64]

True that mj.

I hope that did not come across as me being cross or anything like that. I was just trying to lay it out so everyone can get their scubagen up and running as nicely as some of us know it can. I know the learning curve can be very steep so i was also trying to encourage those having a harder time of it because Genisis does become almost second nature after you play with it a while. It takes a some time and tinkering on your first one to get the techniques down but it's soo worth it once you get there.

Scubagen is a great learner too because it's all stainless and therefore as near bulletproof as it gets

No, didn't think you were cross, not at all, I think all reminders and encouragement are good here, was just pointing out that we had some here that might not consider that coil info common sense.

As I'm prone to getting very frustrated myself I force myself to back off, revisit, ask others, etc, to break my stubborn focus on the point that won't work. Sometimes when I do so I find that I've screwed something fundamental up and my rage blinded me to it....

 

[roygodbold]

The problem I see if trying to measure the mesh to body resistance is that the mesh at top is supposedly
non conductive (oxidized/crudded, take your pick) so you could be showing open when in fact its not.
It might only be me in the way I positioned the bic insulators in the mesh holes, but once or twice one of
the mesh tails was touching barely the center post, which was hard to see through the juice.
I plan on getting some ptfe tubing to put around the center post.

 

[lorderos33]

The problem I see if trying to measure the mesh to body resistance is that the mesh at top is supposedly
non conductive (oxidized/crudded, take your pick) so you could be showing open when in fact its not.
It might only be me in the way I positioned the bic insulators in the mesh holes, but once or twice one of
the mesh tails was touching barely the center post, which was hard to see through the juice.
I plan on getting some ptfe tubing to put around the center post.

Yes, the mesh touching the center post could certainly cause a shorting issue even if the part the coil is wrapped around is very well oxidized. You might very well be able to correct this by tweaking/bending the mesh slightly so that it wants to go out instead of in when it goes through the pen tube insulator.

 

[NicksVap3]

im kinda glad im broke and cant get a few of the pieces to go any further. gives me a chance to sit back and watch all the bugs worked out... but im also jealous at the same time

 

[MadmanMacguyver]

I never thought that one day I would use one of my smallest drill bits to drill out the end of a bic pen to make it bigger.

It works, however you need to go slow, as not to melt the plastic. I drilled them out while holding the pen in my hand, not while inserted in the hole of the sgv3 body. I never used the drilled out pen tube, however it should work.

----------------------------------------------------------------

I ordered some Nylon Sleeve Flange Bushings from Mc-Master-Carr part # 91145A110.

I use four of them, two in the top and two in the bottom.

I had to trim the shoulder on one side for the two I used on the bottom to get them insterted.

Here is the specs on the part. the inside dia ia 0.090"

Brilliant...and here I used a silicone bushing...I was trying to increase the available wick diameter...as I assume you were...

don't remember what it was originally used for...it came from my ever expanding junk drawer...

 

[Scubabatdan]

I think Dan's next video showing how to connect the coil and eliminate the coil from shorting on the wick holds the key to finishing this. Hint! Hint!

Man I go away for 2 days and I am playing catch up LOL
Thanks UA and PK for helping others with this. I can do a vid On inserting the wick, hooking it up and test firing it/vaping it. Give me a day get the vid done.
Dan

 

[Zen~]

I'm pretty darn happy with the vape and flavor of this thing... I just tried a carto and a ce-2 tanks to cmpare, and I can never go back... the flavor seems muted on the "legacy" devices...

BUT, one big question... I seem to have a pretty fair amount of condensation forming in the top chamber which eventually leaks down into the center tube which in turn makes a hell of a mess... is anybody else having this issue and if so, what are you doing about it?