Scubagen Mods
- Thread starter UA72Riddle
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Had I not seen it myself, I would agree, but when I built my scubagen, I went to great lengths testing for shorts, and dripped some joose directly on the coil(only 3 windings) with no wick just to test. After a few seconds it ignited.
same over here. I had that problem. no shorts. but I don't think it was wicking properly.
I've had part of the coil glowing and could see the arcing of a short and even part of the wick glowing, but no actual flame. Maybe I'm just not trying hard enough? 
The oring will be in the bottom half of the cup, the threads from the top half will stop before reaching the oring.
I.E.
Dan
Last edited:
I'm going with all the above. I'be seen all but b and d in person...I can't be 100% sure on b though. I've seen people do some really wacky crap
Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk
F you are at Modumust stage 5 and suffering delusions of wizardhood...
dangit. I have to go to phoenix for a family emergency. no working on my scubagen for me.
Sorry to hear that, perhaps you could take it with you.
Let's see,, battery operated soldering gun and some small wire, a battery, wire mesh, kanthal, clear tubing, parts from a bic pen, tools........
Either you could get it done before the plane lands or get arrested,,,,,,,,,,,,,
yeah, I can imagine that.. sir, why do you have all these bomb making parts? please step through this door.
for sure if they hear you mumbling to yourself:
"Man this thing is going to be the bomb"
"Man this thing is going to be the bomb"
I've found that if the upper tube is removed and you keep firing it you get flame put the top on and it doesnt - More oxygen? Thats my guess. I fired that one too long and the coil got way too hot - sacrificed for a pic.
Got a few questions for the pros..
The juice splatter at the top nails turn blood red? Tryed 3 different flavors ( all are clear) should I worry? It tastes ok.
While my scuba works great. The wick can't keep up with me.
Would more mesh wick faster? Hold more?
I'm going to cut one of my scubas down. Would JB weld hold it together? What would work?
I seen the post where someone did it. I just can't find it again.
Thanks in advance.
Sent from my HTC Glacier using Tapatalk
The juice splatter at the top nails turn blood red? Tryed 3 different flavors ( all are clear) should I worry? It tastes ok.
While my scuba works great. The wick can't keep up with me.
Would more mesh wick faster? Hold more?
I'm going to cut one of my scubas down. Would JB weld hold it together? What would work?
I seen the post where someone did it. I just can't find it again.
Thanks in advance.
Sent from my HTC Glacier using Tapatalk
I can answer on the cutting it down part... You will need to cut out a section of the tube in the bottom section. That obviously requires two cuts to be made. You need to be VERY tedious with the cutting part, because these cuts need to be perfect, straight through, no angle at all. After the cuts are made, smooth any burrs, but rough up the ends where the tube will come together. This gives the JB something to bond to.
Now, you will need to make a trip to the hardware store and pick up a COILED SPRING PIN. I don't remember the exact size, but you want one that requires a bit of pressure to get inside the tube section. Most hardware stores will refer to it as a Roll Pin. The roll pin holds the two sections together with a considerable amount of force, so no wiggle or movement, it keeps both peices perfectly straight, and the hollow center gives you a channel to feed the positive wire. Not to mention that JB is an insulator, so the roll pin provides a bridge for the ground.
Now cut down the roll pin to only .75" long. Force the roll pin into one section so that half the roll pin still sticks out. Now mix and apply the JB to the section with the roll pin stuck in it. DON'T get any inside the roll pin. Only put the JB where the 2 sections will contact, but don't worry if it is not perfect. Now force the other section on, forcing the exposed roll pin into the tube. Slide it all the way down till it meets with the other section. JB will get squeezed out from between the 2 sections, but thats okay. Wipe away the excess.
Now once that cures, put an abrasive buff on your dremel and buff away the excess JB, and clean it up.
Now you are free to assemble as usual, minding that the bottom section of PC tubing, as well as the wick, will be substantially shorter.
Now, you will need to make a trip to the hardware store and pick up a COILED SPRING PIN. I don't remember the exact size, but you want one that requires a bit of pressure to get inside the tube section. Most hardware stores will refer to it as a Roll Pin. The roll pin holds the two sections together with a considerable amount of force, so no wiggle or movement, it keeps both peices perfectly straight, and the hollow center gives you a channel to feed the positive wire. Not to mention that JB is an insulator, so the roll pin provides a bridge for the ground.
Now cut down the roll pin to only .75" long. Force the roll pin into one section so that half the roll pin still sticks out. Now mix and apply the JB to the section with the roll pin stuck in it. DON'T get any inside the roll pin. Only put the JB where the 2 sections will contact, but don't worry if it is not perfect. Now force the other section on, forcing the exposed roll pin into the tube. Slide it all the way down till it meets with the other section. JB will get squeezed out from between the 2 sections, but thats okay. Wipe away the excess.
Now once that cures, put an abrasive buff on your dremel and buff away the excess JB, and clean it up.
Now you are free to assemble as usual, minding that the bottom section of PC tubing, as well as the wick, will be substantially shorter.
I believe the guy who shortened his welded it back together...although I could be mistaken...
I wanted to, but no welding equipment or anything. Nonetheless, the combination roll pin/JB Weld had proved remarkably strong, and JB weld is food safe and chemically inert after curing.
- Status
Similar threads
