show off your mech! homebuilt mods only!

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USRN2016

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JohnnyDill

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I would Love it if you could provide a parts list! This is one beautiful and clean mod! I especially like that fire switch!!!
-Thanks for the kind words. This is the actual fire switch I purchased: 12mm 12V 3V Hight Head Push Button Angel Eye Blue LED Metal Switch Momentary US | eBay

This is where I purchased the PCB: $11.64 VOMO V5 Variable Voltage/Wattage Mod Module - 3.0-15.0W / 3.0-6.0V / 0.6" OLED at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

And this is where I got the inspiration to build a Vamo box from a USB power bank: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/538730-arlo-dual-18650-dna20-30-step-step-how.html -There are many pics of my build in this thread. I machined the 510 top cap myself, as well as the screen cradle. I feel that Mamu should get all the credit for the look of this build, not me.
:) -Hope this information helps. View my profile for more detailed pics of the guts inside this box. PM me if needed!
 

david4500

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Working on this at the moment

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TyCreek

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Do you guys think a Fat Daddy 510 could be modded for bottom feeding?
I'm counting on both the old and new FD 510 connectors to be modified for BF. Not quite as simple as drilling a hole in an RDA center post, but yet only a little different if a simple press-fit feed tube adapter is your chosen method on the non-spring center pin. On the new 510 with spring loaded center pin, a section of conductive feeder tube will be need as it would double as a portion of the solder point since it doesn't have enough contact area otherwise. I'm planning conversion of both types ...
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ThreeDJ16

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Do you guys think a Fat Daddy 510 could be modded for bottom feeding?
Can't find the thread right now, but there is a group working on a Shapeways printed bottom feeder that uses the older style Fat Daddy 510 on the unit. Not sure what their means of accomplishment is, but a look around the modding forum might be worthwhile. I believe the desiginer's username was Gdeal or something close.
 

disturbed1

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I'm counting on both the old and new FD 510 connectors to be modified for BF. Not quite as simple as drilling a hole in an RDA center post, but yet only a little different if a simple press-fit feed tube adapter is your chosen method on the non-spring center pin. On the new 510 with spring loaded center pin, a section of conductive feeder tube will be need as it would double as a portion of the solder point since it doesn't have enough contact area otherwise. I'm planning conversion of both types ...
14549927376_57fed8e693_c.jpg

It looks like there is a hole started in the center poste(no doubt a solder point). If so just get a drill the same size and finish the hole. Would that be about right? Or am I not seek it right.
 

TyCreek

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It looks like there is a hole started in the center poste(no doubt a solder point). If so just get a drill the same size and finish the hole. Would that be about right? Or am I not seek it right.
Yes, the spring loaded center post has a hole that I also assume is for soldering a wire. That SS tubing shown is a perfect size for a good tight press fit. That solder socket is much bigger than the 1/16" hole I'll drill to match the internal diameter of the tubing. The only challenge is that tubing will also need to be the primary solder contact because there's very little center post sticking through the bottom cap (haven't seen how well that SS accepts solder yet). The bottom cap is not a good electrical path. Concerns are; leak potential with a DNA nearby, difficulty cleaning, replacing and melting the rubber seal when wire is soldered.

The other 510 has little chance of leaking but a 1/16 bit will need to be very centered because the pin walls will be thin. One thought is threading the outside of that hollow SS tube in the picture to replace the skinny brass center pin and maybe have it extend all the way to the bottom of a bottle.
 

disturbed1

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I finished this a few weeks a go. I drilled out a 510 wish a 1/16 drill and fitted a green blunt tip needle in to it the sweat some solder in there to hold it in place. The I soldered my + right to the ss needle with eez. for the atty I drilled the 510 with the 1/16 droll the the + poste just under the hole for the wire insten BF atty.I used a brass 1/2" sweat fitting for my drip cup. just cut it down. the 510 fit in it vary nicely.
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Quigsworth

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Thought I'd jump in with some true mechs...I'm a bf guy and I'm not a big RDA swapper...when I find something I like, I build a mod and hybrid it in for the absolute min. in vdrop...these 2 are using Atomic clones (I fab my own center pins)

This one is a Cocobolo Woodvil blank I got off Rob at Reo's mods (great guy to deal with), it was mis-drilled so a pretty substantial blemish as far as he was concerned but perfect for what I wanted...the switch button is a sleeved brass rod with about 1mm of throw...turned out pretty good, plus I believe I have the first mech Woodvil ever

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...and this one is what I've named the russian tractor...it's .... ugly but that's a 25A DC rated beryllium/silver plated contact and paired copper batt post set in brass for the switch, neg. is running through a 10A fuse...and to keep the .3 ohm 26 awg duals fed, that's a 15ml bottle

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Quigsworth

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I wish you guys would show the guts...don't sweat it if it isn't pretty (function over form I always say...)...but I get a lot of ideas from how other folk jam crap in...I recently saw a thread where a guy managed to get a DNA30 into a Reo Grand (and keep the bottom feed function)...without changing the outer dimensions...stroke of brilliance and some fine kitchen table engineering.
 
I wish you guys would show the guts...don't sweat it if it isn't pretty (function over form I always say...)...but I get a lot of ideas from how other folk jam crap in...I recently saw a thread where a guy managed to get a DNA30 into a Reo Grand (and keep the bottom feed function)...without changing the outer dimensions...stroke of brilliance and some fine kitchen table engineering.
I will try to get you a gut pic this evening
 
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