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my 20 should be here tomorrow. I look forward to banging my head against these known issue. Fingers crossed
I've had a 20 for a few weeks now and enjoy it...
I primarily got it to be a backup to my Provari so I could leave the pricey beast in the house and have something to vape by the pool...
As it turns out, I'm liking the 20 quite a bit. For the money spent, I have no concerns about the safety of the device. I usually have an FDA on it so it isn't pocket friendly...so I really have no worry about the button activating when I don't want it to. I also am in the habit of turning the switch off when it isn't in use.
At the risk of over simplifying all of the dangers...if it is in my hand and it starts to have a problem...I'll probably just drop it and clean up the mess it may make. I doubt that it will instantaneously burst into flames when it is just sitting on my desk doing nothing.
Perhaps I am just a little punchy because its late, but I think you might be making a mountain...
Time will tell
Geo
I primarily got it to be a backup to my Provari so I could leave the pricey beast in the house and have something to vape by the pool...
As it turns out, I'm liking the 20 quite a bit. For the money spent, I have no concerns about the safety of the device. I usually have an FDA on it so it isn't pocket friendly...so I really have no worry about the button activating when I don't want it to. I also am in the habit of turning the switch off when it isn't in use.
At the risk of over simplifying all of the dangers...if it is in my hand and it starts to have a problem...I'll probably just drop it and clean up the mess it may make. I doubt that it will instantaneously burst into flames when it is just sitting on my desk doing nothing.
Perhaps I am just a little punchy because its late, but I think you might be making a mountain...
Time will tell
Geo
I don't doubt that the #20 works well and is probably pretty reliable with >1 ohm coils. The thing is, when you run sub-ohm coils, things heat up. The spring in the switch looks to be a pretty light gauge, so the mod will actually get hottest there. There are reports of the spring fusing to the top post, and this is exactly why. What I don't want to happen is to be vaping on my 0.6 ohm build, release the button and have the mod continue to fire. Its easy enough to stop it, just unscrew the atomizer. Battery crisis averted. Except now I have a fused switch that I now need to repair. I also don't doubt that I could repair the #20, in fact it might actually be kind of fun to make it more reliable through modification. What I don't know is how robust my modifications would be, the time required, and the new tools I may need to buy to make it work well. I just want a functioning mech mod that I can run sub-ohm coils on and not have switch spring fusion in the back of my mind. The other potential outcome is that I cannot repair it well enough, or the tools required to do it right cost a large fraction of the original cost of the mod or more, and the smart decision is to buy a new mod.
Again, I urge those without these types of concerns to happily vape on their #20. Chances are, nothing bad will happen. I do have these concerns, which is why I decided to go with something else.
Again, I urge those without these types of concerns to happily vape on their #20. Chances are, nothing bad will happen. I do have these concerns, which is why I decided to go with something else.
Where did everyone get their sigelei #20s from I just ordered 2 from VaporTekUSA and now Im worried that Im gonna have one hell of a time trying to find springs for it and how to get to the posts to sand them down....
Only one post to sand - Battery + easy to get to.
Also may need to clean the threading for the 510 brass connector. Remove with the back edge of a butter knife.
If Springs are gold color, they are the new replacements and should be okay. Older silver ones were an issue.
Also may need to clean the threading for the 510 brass connector. Remove with the back edge of a butter knife.
If Springs are gold color, they are the new replacements and should be okay. Older silver ones were an issue.
How to fix the #20,seems like the switch button cant be taken apart.
SIGELEI #20 from celticvapes.co.uk - YouTube
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The switch button is press fit be gentle taking it apart or the button will have a tendency to spring off.
1. Unscrew 510 threaded bit on top. A butter knife will work for that.
2. Flip over and with pliers pull out the bottom battery pin; a little twist will help.
3. With a thin screwdriver that will fit through the bottom pin hole, push out the top pin of the 510 connector
4. I used a corkscrew to push out the firing pin by twisting the corkscrew in through the bottom hole and pushing sideways against the pin. This will push out the delrin plug that holds the switch, button and spring
At this point you'll have the switch out. You could continue to diassemble the switch head by tapping out the delrin housing but if you just want to get the switch out your done.
2. Flip over and with pliers pull out the bottom battery pin; a little twist will help.
3. With a thin screwdriver that will fit through the bottom pin hole, push out the top pin of the 510 connector
4. I used a corkscrew to push out the firing pin by twisting the corkscrew in through the bottom hole and pushing sideways against the pin. This will push out the delrin plug that holds the switch, button and spring
At this point you'll have the switch out. You could continue to diassemble the switch head by tapping out the delrin housing but if you just want to get the switch out your done.
Not intending to threadjack,
My #20 SUCKS! Voltage Drops like hell. Using the same IGO-L, wrapped at 2.3 ohms, I get crap vapor/flavor/throat hit from my #20. Versus my Vamo set to 3.7 volts the difference is night and day.
Whats weird is that after testing the #20 with a multimeter, its pushing out 3.9 volts on a freshly charged battery. What gives?
Its got the upgraded spring on the bottom. On the 510 pin there is a little copper piece on top of the pin, sort of like a magnet stuck on top or something. Cant get it off, and not sure if thats what is causing it.
Any ideas? Suggestions?
My #20 SUCKS! Voltage Drops like hell. Using the same IGO-L, wrapped at 2.3 ohms, I get crap vapor/flavor/throat hit from my #20. Versus my Vamo set to 3.7 volts the difference is night and day.
Whats weird is that after testing the #20 with a multimeter, its pushing out 3.9 volts on a freshly charged battery. What gives?
Its got the upgraded spring on the bottom. On the 510 pin there is a little copper piece on top of the pin, sort of like a magnet stuck on top or something. Cant get it off, and not sure if thats what is causing it.
Any ideas? Suggestions?
Waiting on my replacement #20. As soon as i put a battery in mine i could feel it heating up like crazy with no atty installed. Somehow there was a short in the switch area. I took it apart and tried to figure it out, and when i put it back together, i thought it was fixed. So put an atty on, press the button and SHORTTTTT, atomizer got nothing. Short was in the 510 connector somehow maybe? I wish i had looked around more in ways, but honestly, when vendor said send it back ill get a new one i sent it back right away.
I know how all of you with a #20 that's not working feel. I waited for over a month on a pre order and an hour after it arrived it misfired, shorted, fried the hot spring and one of my batteries. The switch in the #20 is just an accident waiting to happen. I fixed mine by replacing the switch mechanism and button. Here's a pic.
The head of the screw in the delrin contacts the top and bottom post in the switch head. I wrapped the top post with a wire and soldered it on to match the diameter of the bottom post. The stock button wouldn't stay on the shaft of the screw so I threaded a small brass nut on to serve as a suitable size button. As long as the head of the screw makes contact with both posts it fires better than stock. There is a little wobble through the delrin hole with the screw I had (so it needs a firm press to contact both posts) and the posts don't line up in the middle so its not perfect but it works most of the time.
The head of the screw in the delrin contacts the top and bottom post in the switch head. I wrapped the top post with a wire and soldered it on to match the diameter of the bottom post. The stock button wouldn't stay on the shaft of the screw so I threaded a small brass nut on to serve as a suitable size button. As long as the head of the screw makes contact with both posts it fires better than stock. There is a little wobble through the delrin hole with the screw I had (so it needs a firm press to contact both posts) and the posts don't line up in the middle so its not perfect but it works most of the time.
I didn't wait for my #20 V2 to cause any accidents in my little world. I did something similar to justinstar77's approach. I didn't have to use any extra parts though. After the switch was all apart, I removed the spring from the battery pin that was previously used to pass current to the top pin (510 connection). I stuck the top pin in a drill and spun it on a file, removing enough material to get it down to the same thickness as the bottom (battery) pin. In order to use the stock switch with it's tiny surface area, the top and bottom pins needed to have a small gap between them, and be perfectly centered when viewing from the front where the switch resides. The bottom (battery) pin had to come up a couple of millimeters, I used a Dremmel to grind away just enough of the delrin to make room for that. The bottom of the top pin need to be sanded down quite a bit, especially after dropping it down a few mm for a flush mounting the atty. The 510 brass ring also need some material removed for flush mounting. I had to put the top and bottom pins in and take the out many times, removing a little more delrin and sanding down the bottom of the top pin. Eventually, I got the gap between the pins perfectly centered, and a flush mounting 510 connection as well.
What an annoying bunch of work to get a mod to look and perform as it should have out of the factory. I bought brass rod, bolts, and nuts thinking that would help this process, but what I did worked just fine. It fires 9 out of 10 times. I was so peeved, I swore I wouldn't buy another Sigelei product ever again. I can make a mod myself that is safer and has a lower voltage drop than this #20, even with its upgraded battery spring and copper pins. Unfortunately, I'm very fond of the looks of the #8w. I'm going to wait a couple of months and see what reports come up. I don't trust pre-orders on untested Sigelei mods anymore. What a terrible first mech mod to buy...
What an annoying bunch of work to get a mod to look and perform as it should have out of the factory. I bought brass rod, bolts, and nuts thinking that would help this process, but what I did worked just fine. It fires 9 out of 10 times. I was so peeved, I swore I wouldn't buy another Sigelei product ever again. I can make a mod myself that is safer and has a lower voltage drop than this #20, even with its upgraded battery spring and copper pins. Unfortunately, I'm very fond of the looks of the #8w. I'm going to wait a couple of months and see what reports come up. I don't trust pre-orders on untested Sigelei mods anymore. What a terrible first mech mod to buy...
Ive got one and like it. Ive heard many say its similar to the roller mod. Similar isnt the word, its a copy. Ive seen all the posts about the saftey and all that jazz. Ive used it with low resistance atomozers and also some rebuildables. Bottom line is if you are going to be using a sub ohm or genesis device on this mod, you just have to take it easy and remember to let the heat vent out of the switch.
Whether you are sub ohm vaping or not, pushing a thin spring sideways to pass current is not a good idea on the designer's part. Springs aren't meant to do that. Eventually, it will stay bent to the side, especially being as thin as it is. After I removed that spring, I discovered just how easy it is to deform. I modded mine to work without the spring, you folks can do what you like. Warnings have been made.
Springs aren't meant to be deformed slightly from their resting state and return to it? Then what are they for? There is very little difference in pushing a light gauge extension spring a few mm to the side VS extending it.
I work on copiers for a living and small springs are used in some pretty clever ways and last millions of copies before they go bad, if ever. I think the problem you are looking for here is welding from arcing or deformation from heat building up in the spring from high amp draw.
just done my 1 pc stainless steel 18350 body for my #20.
swap bottom spring with vamo spring ad the silver spring have too much resistant....instead of heating up the coil, it heats up the spring....
Thank You on how to take this little beast apart. I got 1 from a co-op and it really got under my skin real quick with the misfiring. I sanded all the points inside the head and even made a sandpaper ciggy, put it on the end of a drill and sanded the inside of that spring. I didn't pull the switch out until it begings to misfire again.
Well so far the volts on the battery match the volt output of the #20 so I musta did something right.
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