They told me via email this morning that they had not put all of their inventory up yesterday. When I re-ordered this morning it showed 98 available.
Sigelei Mechnical Mods
- Thread starter pillowking
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
They told me via email this morning that they had not put all of their inventory up yesterday. When I re-ordered this morning it showed 98 available.
You guys are killing me.... I get up today, see a brass (copper) #19 preorder... I have to tell my self the 2 #19's i have coming will be enough - stop hand from clicking add to shopping cart. I am weak!! But i will enjoy my #8 + term-c today at the farmers market. I hope every one has a great day.
For those of us lucky enough to get one of the pre-order #19E....here's a little more info from a closed Facebook group that happens to be trying to get a Co-op together......some interesting info from a Q&A with the sigelei Rep:
1.the 19E whole body is brass, solid brass, not plated brass
2. yes, we can do brass and polished brass, no need extra fee, the MOQ for polished is 50pcs
3.we can do an extension tube, so that the kick can be used on the 18650 battery, but need $2 USD more
4.the head cap is plated gold spring, not magnet
5. the top connector and the bottom connector is copper
(now we know why it's called "The Copper")
6.please find the parts pictures in the attachment
View attachment 223322 View attachment 223323
This couldn't be better news....if it's as good as it looks... I think we'll all be happy campers
Sounds great to me - but what is the consensus on the switch?
So I assume both my pre-orders from VaporTek for the 19B and 19E
with have this spring actuated switch instead of the magnet.
I was actually hoping for the magnet. Maybe they couldn't get it right or it just may have cost too much.
I'm sure the spring will be fine though.
They're not magnetic switches. I doubt they'll get to that point any time soon. The 19B I tried the other night at Vapor Gras had a really nice throw, with no grittiness at all.
The bottom switch still has the magnet (far-left part in the photos), they've replaced the top magnet with the gold spring. I really like the arrangement, even though the button isn't a true magnetic switch, it still works very well. On the standard setup the button has a pretty long throw & it's a relatively heavy spring. I don't know if they've changed the bottom spring on these, I have one of the early #19As and it had a stainless steel spring, and it definitively needed replacing. I substituted a Hot Spring from a Silver Bullet - it needed to be wound a little tighter to fit, but it's easy to do since it's a copper alloy spring and easy to work with.
I also polished up the magnet and put a 14mm copper washer on top with a dab of Noalox to hold it in place to shorten the throw. Nice short/crisp throw now & it hits 100% better & fires EVERY time. You could use a brass or aluminum washer also - but don't use a regular metal washer - you want good conductivity, but not something that will stick to the magnet, otherwise it will fire continuously.
Pretty simple modifications to make an already great little mechanical into something really special. The #19E, with the copper connectors should be even better.....copper is a MUCH better conductor than brass or stainless steel.
The only thing better would be pure silver contacts...Hmmmmm....let me see...got some silver solder around here someplace....
Last edited:
Awesome, thanks for the info NamVet68.
I'm even more excited to get them now. Hopefully it's improved from the 19A.
I'm even more excited to get them now. Hopefully it's improved from the 19A.
The blade is a clone of the Aphex Alpha, but it had significant issues. Quickly tarnishing/corroding contacts which led to misfires & a high voltage drop. Don't know if the cloning process improved things or not.
Thanks for that post 4thpower now I'm happy I got my order in yesterday for both of the #19
Here a quick run through on setting up a magnetic switch for the Sigelei #19. The only parts I needed to source were two ring magnets.
I used these: SuperMagnetMan and for the bonus they were actually gold plated (not that we needed that for this version of the mod)
Parts:
Small o-ring for spacing the brass post a bit higher in the delrin insulator
Braided copper wire (see my earlier post of Studiovap's mod; http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...78-sigelei-mechnical-mods-42.html#post9614724)
Two ring magnets: 12mm OD/8mm ID - 3mm thick
Before you assemble, you will need to either bring the brass post down in diameter by ~.25mm or expand the center of the ring magnets by .25mm. They both spec out to 8mm and would not fit together. I didn't want to really touch the post so I opened up the magnets using 120/320/600 grit sandpaper wrapped around a 6mm bolt, then chucked in a drill. You need to go slow and do not let the magnets heat-up. They will loose magnetism. They just need to slide onto the post, the less gap the better.
Step One:
Insert the post into the delrin spacer upside down. Take the preformed copper wire and secure in the small gap at the base of the delrin spacer. Bend the smaller top circle of the preformed copper wire up. This will give you room to place the magnets. This picture has magnet number one in place.
Step Two
Find the right polarity of the second magnet so that its opposing magnet one. These magnets are very strong and will flip easily. Place magnet number two over the post and wrap the copper wire over the magnet and twist tight to the base of the post thread. Try to keep the wire close to the last thread, there is not a lot to play with and you need the threads to secure the end-cap. Here is a picture of the result. Notice that magnet two is floating. The wire is preventing the magnet from popping off.
Step Three:
Replace the lock ring cap, making sure that the large loop of the wire is tucked nicely in the delrin spacer gap. The lock ring should be able to tighten all the way down. Then re-attach the button using pressure on the battery side of the brass post and on the outside of the button to tighten and lock down on the wire.
Here is my final result:
The button has about 2mm of play before firing. You can use another o-ring spacer next to the first one to bring the distance closer, but I did not have the right size, so I went with the single o-ring.
Vape performance is the same as the copper wire with the spring mod (the wire is the path of current), which is outstanding BTW. The feel of the button push is interesting. Its smooth, but the resistance increases as the magnets get closer. The push force is very light, has no grinding and the Mod stands without firing. After vaping with this for the day, I know by touch and the feel of the resistance when the mod is going to fire. I have not been able to get that with a spring yet. With the spring, it was more like push until it stops. This has a touch thing going on.
Cost of mod. - $1.50 (not including shipping...) Value = priceless.
I used these: SuperMagnetMan and for the bonus they were actually gold plated (not that we needed that for this version of the mod)
Parts:
Small o-ring for spacing the brass post a bit higher in the delrin insulator
Braided copper wire (see my earlier post of Studiovap's mod; http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...78-sigelei-mechnical-mods-42.html#post9614724)
Two ring magnets: 12mm OD/8mm ID - 3mm thick
Before you assemble, you will need to either bring the brass post down in diameter by ~.25mm or expand the center of the ring magnets by .25mm. They both spec out to 8mm and would not fit together. I didn't want to really touch the post so I opened up the magnets using 120/320/600 grit sandpaper wrapped around a 6mm bolt, then chucked in a drill. You need to go slow and do not let the magnets heat-up. They will loose magnetism. They just need to slide onto the post, the less gap the better.
Step One:
Insert the post into the delrin spacer upside down. Take the preformed copper wire and secure in the small gap at the base of the delrin spacer. Bend the smaller top circle of the preformed copper wire up. This will give you room to place the magnets. This picture has magnet number one in place.
Step Two
Find the right polarity of the second magnet so that its opposing magnet one. These magnets are very strong and will flip easily. Place magnet number two over the post and wrap the copper wire over the magnet and twist tight to the base of the post thread. Try to keep the wire close to the last thread, there is not a lot to play with and you need the threads to secure the end-cap. Here is a picture of the result. Notice that magnet two is floating. The wire is preventing the magnet from popping off.
Step Three:
Replace the lock ring cap, making sure that the large loop of the wire is tucked nicely in the delrin spacer gap. The lock ring should be able to tighten all the way down. Then re-attach the button using pressure on the battery side of the brass post and on the outside of the button to tighten and lock down on the wire.
Here is my final result:
The button has about 2mm of play before firing. You can use another o-ring spacer next to the first one to bring the distance closer, but I did not have the right size, so I went with the single o-ring.
Vape performance is the same as the copper wire with the spring mod (the wire is the path of current), which is outstanding BTW. The feel of the button push is interesting. Its smooth, but the resistance increases as the magnets get closer. The push force is very light, has no grinding and the Mod stands without firing. After vaping with this for the day, I know by touch and the feel of the resistance when the mod is going to fire. I have not been able to get that with a spring yet. With the spring, it was more like push until it stops. This has a touch thing going on.
Cost of mod. - $1.50 (not including shipping...) Value = priceless.
I cant "like" this post enough!Here a quick run through on setting up a magnetic switch for the Sigelei #19. The only parts I needed to source were two ring magnets.
I used these: SuperMagnetMan and for the bonus they were actually gold plated (not that we needed that for this version of the mod)
Parts:
Small o-ring for spacing the brass post a bit higher in the delrin insulator
Braided copper wire (see my earlier post of Studiovap's mod; http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...78-sigelei-mechnical-mods-42.html#post9614724)
Two ring magnets: 12mm OD/8mm ID - 3mm thick
Before you assemble, you will need to either bring the brass post down in diameter by ~.25mm or expand the center of the ring magnets by .25mm. They both spec out to 8mm and would not fit together. I didn't want to really touch the post so I opened up the magnets using 120/320/600 grit sandpaper wrapped around a 6mm bolt, then chucked in a drill. You need to go slow and do not let the magnets heat-up. They will loose magnetism. They just need to slide onto the post, the less gap the better.
Step One:
Insert the post into the delrin spacer upside down. Take the preformed copper wire and secure in the small gap at the base of the delrin spacer. Bend the smaller top circle of the preformed copper wire up. This will give you room to place the magnets. This picture has magnet number one in place.
Step Two
Find the right polarity of the second magnet so that its opposing magnet one. These magnets are very strong and will flip easily. Place magnet number two over the post and wrap the copper wire over the magnet and twist tight to the base of the post thread. Try to keep the wire close to the last thread, there is not a lot to play with and you need the threads to secure the end-cap. Here is a picture of the result. Notice that magnet two is floating. The wire is preventing the magnet from popping off.
Step Three:
Replace the lock ring cap, making sure that the large loop of the wire is tucked nicely in the delrin spacer gap. The lock ring should be able to tighten all the way down. Then re-attach the button using pressure on the battery side of the brass post and on the outside of the button to tighten and lock down on the wire.
Here is my final result:
The button has about 2mm of play before firing. You can use another o-ring spacer next to the first one to bring the distance closer, but I did not have the right size, so I went with the single o-ring.
Vape performance is the same as the copper wire with the spring mod (the wire is the path of current), which is outstanding BTW. The feel of the button push is interesting. Its smooth, but the resistance increases as the magnets get closer. The push force is very light, has no grinding and the Mod stands without firing. After vaping with this for the day, I know by touch and the feel of the resistance when the mod is going to fire. I have not been able to get that with a spring yet. With the spring, it was more like push until it stops. This has a touch thing going on.
Cost of mod. - $1.50 (not including shipping...) Value = priceless.
Howdy folks,
So I ordered an 8 and a 20 from vaportekusa, and got them on Friday the 21st. Very happy at first glance. Knowing they were coming, I put in time to read this thread...all the way thru....lots of good info, too bad it isnt organize for easier consumption. So tomorrow I will start my modding.
Found the blog post for the 8. Appears mine comes with the upgrade spring in the cup, so at this point, unless someone with more experience than I have speaks up, I'm gonna leave the spring, follow the rest of the suggested modding in the blog post, except I will cut a brass screw down to fit in the spring for the extra contact area, as well as add spacers to shorten the throw of the switch. Any other suggestions? Cosmetics will come over the following week. One of the cosmetic changes.....got a new RSST to go with this stick, may have to do a small bit of sanding on the top of the mod.
As to the 20....Vaportekusa replaces the bottom spring with a helix spring, so the biggest part of the modding....as far as I can tell....is done. Still gonna do contact point sanding, everything I see has the appearance of brass already, so not switching anything out. Are there any other suggestions?
Thanks folks,
Mac
So I ordered an 8 and a 20 from vaportekusa, and got them on Friday the 21st. Very happy at first glance. Knowing they were coming, I put in time to read this thread...all the way thru....lots of good info, too bad it isnt organize for easier consumption. So tomorrow I will start my modding.
Found the blog post for the 8. Appears mine comes with the upgrade spring in the cup, so at this point, unless someone with more experience than I have speaks up, I'm gonna leave the spring, follow the rest of the suggested modding in the blog post, except I will cut a brass screw down to fit in the spring for the extra contact area, as well as add spacers to shorten the throw of the switch. Any other suggestions? Cosmetics will come over the following week. One of the cosmetic changes.....got a new RSST to go with this stick, may have to do a small bit of sanding on the top of the mod.
As to the 20....Vaportekusa replaces the bottom spring with a helix spring, so the biggest part of the modding....as far as I can tell....is done. Still gonna do contact point sanding, everything I see has the appearance of brass already, so not switching anything out. Are there any other suggestions?
Thanks folks,
Mac
Here a quick run through on setting up a magnetic switch for the Sigelei #19. The only parts I needed to source were two ring magnets.
I used these: SuperMagnetMan and for the bonus they were actually gold plated (not that we needed that for this version of the mod)
Parts:
Small o-ring for spacing the brass post a bit higher in the delrin insulator
Braided copper wire (see my earlier post of Studiovap's mod; http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...78-sigelei-mechnical-mods-42.html#post9614724)
Two ring magnets: 12mm OD/8mm ID - 3mm thick
Before you assemble, you will need to either bring the brass post down in diameter by ~.25mm or expand the center of the ring magnets by .25mm. They both spec out to 8mm and would not fit together. I didn't want to really touch the post so I opened up the magnets using 120/320/600 grit sandpaper wrapped around a 6mm bolt, then chucked in a drill. You need to go slow and do not let the magnets heat-up. They will loose magnetism. They just need to slide onto the post, the less gap the better.
Step One:
Insert the post into the delrin spacer upside down. Take the preformed copper wire and secure in the small gap at the base of the delrin spacer. Bend the smaller top circle of the preformed copper wire up. This will give you room to place the magnets. This picture has magnet number one in place.
Step Two
Find the right polarity of the second magnet so that its opposing magnet one. These magnets are very strong and will flip easily. Place magnet number two over the post and wrap the copper wire over the magnet and twist tight to the base of the post thread. Try to keep the wire close to the last thread, there is not a lot to play with and you need the threads to secure the end-cap. Here is a picture of the result. Notice that magnet two is floating. The wire is preventing the magnet from popping off.
Step Three:
Replace the lock ring cap, making sure that the large loop of the wire is tucked nicely in the delrin spacer gap. The lock ring should be able to tighten all the way down. Then re-attach the button using pressure on the battery side of the brass post and on the outside of the button to tighten and lock down on the wire.
Here is my final result:
The button has about 2mm of play before firing. You can use another o-ring spacer next to the first one to bring the distance closer, but I did not have the right size, so I went with the single o-ring.
Vape performance is the same as the copper wire with the spring mod (the wire is the path of current), which is outstanding BTW. The feel of the button push is interesting. Its smooth, but the resistance increases as the magnets get closer. The push force is very light, has no grinding and the Mod stands without firing. After vaping with this for the day, I know by touch and the feel of the resistance when the mod is going to fire. I have not been able to get that with a spring yet. With the spring, it was more like push until it stops. This has a touch thing going on.
Cost of mod. - $1.50 (not including shipping...) Value = priceless.
Damn, I gotta print this out and do it. Magnetic button would be so cool!
Really no need to sand the top cap. You can adjust the 510 pin from the bottom of the top cap, just back that screw out until the RSST fits flush.
Very cool, thanks sk8mdw, thanks for the info, tomorrow will be a good day, I can feel it in my old bones.
No problem. Just remember that you may need to adjust the 510 back up when you switch atomizers or it may not make a connection.
Here a quick run through on setting up a magnetic switch for the Sigelei #19. The only parts I needed to source were two ring magnets.
.........
Cost of mod. - $1.50 (not including shipping...) Value = priceless.
LOVE it!!! Great tutorial. One quick question though; are you still able to use the lock ring without it binding?
BTW.. do you remember what gauge copper wire you used?
Thanks....'Gonna have to give this a try!
Nam - 16 gauge braided. The lock ring works like its normal action. No binding. The large wire loop should fit into the gap at the delrin spacer. When the lock ring is full dis-engaged, you can feel that the last turn is a bit tighter, but that's the effect of compressing the wire against the switch wall ensuring good contact. This goes away as the wire forms to the space.
Their mechanical mods are alright, once u plate the contacts with copper/silver, damn it hits way better, sorry for your experience with their electronic PVs. Yeah the electronic ones sucks from my experience. Vape on.
- Status
Similar threads
